By the gear color and old two-piece clutch, it looks like an old V1.
Just slide the side cover off the shaft and there they are - no additional disassembly required. Optionally heat the retaining epoxy then pick/chip it away with a sharp probe/awl, unsolder the leads from the PCB, and pull out the old hall. Easy-peasy.
If your gears actually need replacement the new composite gears are very much stronger than your originals. Don't mess with steel gears. If that was a smart idea, the motor would come with them.
Nobody I know offhand, but any BMC dealer should be able to do the job. The problem is that there are very very few BMC dealers anymore owing to the lousy manufacturer support for dealers and the astronomical parts cost. A BMC gear cluster runs in the hundreds. A MAC cluster will work fine and costs less than $60. This is a simple job - see my Yuba build thread for some rebuild tips with links to other resources. Search ES for other teardown/rebuild info and DIY.
Thanks the reason I think the hall sensor it's going out is I've gradually noticed that the motor stops spinning under load. It does get hot. I try to be very careful with short burst. Lately even just going on pavement where I hold the throttle longer it seems to give out muck quicker than it used too. Not sure that this is an indication of the hall sensor going out or not. But seems that besides broken gears and melted wires this is the only other thing that gives out on this motor. The gears are in good shape although I would like to replace them with the composites but unless I can figure out how to dismantle this I'm pretty much stuck.motomech wrote: ↑May 15, 2018 8:07 pmWell, I just explained how to repair/replace the Halls
As I suspected, nothing is cooked and if you have a "burned Hall" as you described(have you actually tested them?), it's probably a cold-solder joint @ the PCB. It may be possible to resolder it, but like I just explained in great detail, I have found it easier just to start over w/ 3 new Halls and the V2 board, but at least the BMC PCB isn't smeared w/ epoxy like my Ezee's were.
Frankly, Im wondering if anything is even wrong w/ this motor since you dianosed it as "on it's way out" and it looks brand new! You really don't need to dianose your motor as having every problem you have read about and present them to us as fact. Folks here try and be helpful and will spend their time explaining a course of repair and it's time better spent on someone who actually has a verified problem.
In the post above I indicated where you could get hints on how to do this in my Yuba build thread. You need to dress any burrs on shaft shoulders and get a puller.
.geosped wrote: ↑May 23, 2018 3:43 pmOk so I did the hall sensor test. I did a continuity test on the yellow, blue and green wires. On yellow I was getting 4.85 on green I was getting 4.95 and on Blue it stayed on 4.95 it did not fluctuate when I turned the wheel. Indicating an issue with the hall sensor that goes to the blue side.
I then reheated and applied to solder to the blue wire ontop but this did nothing. Did I do this correctly? If so and I need to replace the hall sensor do I just replace the one or all three? Also with all that JB weld in there I'm really afraid of doing permanent damage. Any ideas on how I'm going to get the controller board off? I was thinking of using a dremel with a thin blade and cut through the JB Weld stuff?
Looking at the pictures I posted. I was able to easily remove the yellowish looking epoxy from the top of the PCB board by heating it up with a heat gun and picking at it with a small flat blade screw driver.teklektik wrote: ↑May 24, 2018 8:38 amIf this was previously repaired with JB Weld, then you may have a tougher time softening the epoxy - JB Weld is good to around 500degF - better than the original stuff.
Strictly speaking, it's not necessary to remove/replace the PCB - although that gives the tidiest solution if you are replacing all the halls. Above all else, you don't want to pursue a strategy that causes more damage to repair. You should be able to pick out the epoxy using a strong dental pick - at least enough the free the hall body from the laminations. At that point you have at least two choices:
Rebuild as the factory did:
Pick out additional epoxy under the PCB then unsolder it and pull it out with the PCB in situ. This is not really very difficult if you have electronic-sized tools and are not trying to do this with giant electrician's tools. Use a solder-sucker to clean the PCB holes, then slip in the new hall, solder, glue, done.
Cheat to reroute hall leads
It's also not strictly necessary to replicate the fabrication technique that was originally used to simplify assembly in the factory. With the hall body exposed, sever the 3 hall leads but leave them glued in place and soldered to the PCB. Free and remove the hall body. use a Dremel or small triangular file to file three small notches in the edge of the PCB. insert the hall and route the leads up over the top of the PCB using the three notches to hold the leads. Solder the leads to the pads on top of the PCB. You may need to extend the hall leads with some tiny bare wires to reach the PCB solder pads - just put a glue blob over them.
You need to look at your available tools and skills to decide how to proceed.