Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

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Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by want to build » May 28 2018 4:44pm

Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills :D

Hi every one!, i have basic english so be indulgent .I read a lot of post so i feel i did a ggod job as a newby. There are a lot of questions both in the text and at the end. I like to understand the why of the answers so let yourself free and dont hesitate to correct info and add suggestions.

my weight including the trailer BOB with cargo will be 250 lbs maybe more total
i will use 26 inch wheels
i will go up some moderate hills and the motor need to be able to do most of the work without me having to worry about breaking matérial
i will pedal constantly with little force because my knee hurts but i will still help the motor
i want to be able to pedal without resistance (or very little ) when not using the motor
it would be good if there are replacement part for motor just in case
i intend to do long runs like 40 miles
speed is not so important for now but i would like to be able to improve speed with eventual additionnal battery.18mph seems sufficent for now
will want both throttle on demande and like 2 or 3 different level of pas
i need to choose battery and motor. The other component seem less critical.

for some reference points lets take 4 hill
A500m 11%
B 500m 18%
C 5% 7km
D 9% 7km

BATTERY.
I think building a pack from makita is a good idea. I hesitate on the following choices because i don t have the knowledge perfect enough to match them with the motor i have to choose(ATM i feel like the bmp cst would be a good choice(36 or 48 500w maybe at witch rpm (remember some hills)).

I can get approx 160 x US18650V cell(1.6Ah) nominal 3.7 v.. max discharge:?unknow?. What kind of riding would this translate in? Sufficuent?

Or
i can get approx 168 x 18650VTC4 (2.1Ah) nominal 3.7 v/Max. continuous discharge current: 30A  :But they are more expensive. Not sure if i need those how would the concretly do a difference?



MOTOR
I need reliability, tork go up hills with my cargo without heat.i would like to choose one tha gives me possibility of future added battery .

Here is what i noted while reading several posts. :

Q 100cst
36 v 201 rpm have good comments but is said not to be enough for more than 200lbs.
Some install 2 x q100 one on each wheel but is this better than just 1 bmp for example? Is it efficient? With two it has same weight as bmp. One advantage is the possibility to remove one if i want lighter setup without cargo. Disadvantages I am all ears open?.

Q 128
not recommended since a couple of years in several post .

BMP bafang
-cheaper than mac, price ok, weight around 4 kilo . is said to have a lot more torq that q100
-comes in :
+350w 36v RPM :270 https://bmsbattery.com/motor/505-bafang ... motor.html
+and 500w 36vrpm 270 https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/492-ba ... e-kit.html
+and 500w 48v rmp 328 or 201 https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/804-ba ... e-kit.html

-comes 328 rpm said to be only suitable for light rider 75 kilo and less wihtout hills.
- i think the orther choice is 201rpm
-Possibility cst for better cassette gear. Becaus bmp free wheel threads break of occasionnaly.
-Bafang are sait to be not smooth … what does it mean concretely? . Is said not to be quiet... how loud is it?[/b]

The motor in this wheel kit RPM :270 seem to be different??[/b] from and not same color as the 36v above. And are cheaper with wheel. Why? https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/589-ba ... er-36v500w

There are « bpm2 wich offer mid 3 speed rpm
» 48v 500w rpm 201or 260 or328 https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/586-ba ... e-kit.html only 134 dollar!! anyone knows if it has proven reliable? it is not cst... can come in a kit

Some say code 11 code12 are the best . why do they say this?

MXUS
I read they were discontinued.
It is said it need at leat 44v to climb a hill
MAC
is maybe overkill, i dont know , im a newby! Hahaha
EEZE
i don't know them.


Keeping in mind my cargo and some hills [b]what
motor are your advising me and why?
2x q100? BMP? BPM 2?
what are the advantages disadvantages[/b] of chosing 350 or 500watt why?
What are the advantages ans disadvantages to choose a 36 vs vs 48v.
Could i run a 48 volt with 36 volt battere? Good idea? vice versa
would a 328 48v 500w climb hills easily? i read the 328 have better speed possibilité than 201 but no mention about hills....

What about the battery, 18650v or vtc4? Can 160x18650V do the job?
Why [b]should i conside
r investing more money to get vtc4?
Last edited by want to build on May 31 2018 6:49pm, edited 1 time in total.

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motomech   1 GW

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by motomech » May 28 2018 9:02pm

The biggest advantage to 2WD is that the rear motor can be run fairly low power which makes the throttle smooth and the system intergrates well w/ the PAS, yet, when the frt. motor is engaged the rider can have a powerful bike.
But your requirement don't request for big power, so 2WD is not needed.
Of all the motors you listed, your best bet is the BPM. For 90% of riders, the mid speed is the best compromise, so the 270 rpm rated @ 36 V is what you want. In a 26 " whl. on 48 Volts, top speed would be in the mid 20's mph, a good spot for most bikes. 18 mph is boring and many of us think the low 20's mph is the "sweet spot" for street riding. Having the CST is no big deal, since w/ a BPM on a fair amount of Current, you will end up doing very little shifting, probably 2, maybe 3 gears. Given the big price difference between the CST and the standard free whl fitment motor, I would just get the standard and belly up the price of the DNP Enoch free whl.
Given you would be going w/ a budget motor, take the money you save and buy a BMS Battery Li-Ion Battery w/ the Panasonic cells and the most capacity you can afford. You will save some money by combining the freight.
Unless your time is worth nothing, I don't see fiddle farting w/ tool batteries as being a "good idea". Read thru the projects here, I don't think any of them turned out that great. There are weight and bms issues.
The last item to complete the power system is the controller and here you need to research and decide if you want to go w' the new crop of sine wave controllers and their displays packed w/ features and functions. Or go w/ a simple square wave controller that will not need programing. If you keep the controller under 40 Amps, the 3-speed speed limited PAS will work fairly well, but the 5-level CURRENT limited sine wave equipped units will offer better feel.
i want to be able to pedal without resistance (or very little ) when not using the motor
You can forget that. Some serious cyclists using a very sm. batt. pack and a mini-motor report being able the ride almost normal w/ the power off, but w/ around an added 30 lb.s and a slight amount of added resistance, you will not. What we do is select the speed/power level of the PAS to corraspond to the amount of power you feel like adding w/ the legs. Feeling frisky that day, select a low setting and pedal like Hell. Feeling lazy, a higher level and less leg input. But what I'm saying is, the power stays on all the time.
You have not given us any info on the donor bike, but what ever it is, it will probably need some improvements or modification(Ebikes have a way of begging for mods,tires at the very least), so don't ignore it when it comes to determining your budget.
My recommendation to you, start reading up on the types of controllers. The sine waves from PSW Power are populatr right now, but I like the square wave from their sister store, elifebike.
The one down-side to using the BPM w/ a sine wave from BMS Battery is they don't really offer the right size for that motor, which would be a 9-FET w/ a rating between 25 to 40 Amps. What they offer is either too sm. or too big.
The PSW Power controllers only go up to 20 Amps I believe, but they can be easily shunt-modd'et to 25 Amps. Still, a little low, but they would be smooth as silk.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by want to build » May 29 2018 9:46pm

hi
lots of things to retink,
first, just to be sure, could a q100 bring me up a hill with my 260 cargo? i read that it can not even go up a wheelchair ramp without pedal assit! Cause i like its little weight but if it is just not enough for my needs, ill forget it.

second what happen when you use a 48 v motor with a 24 volt battery pack? can you do this without any probleme? if so it is better for me to take a hi voltage motor.
for today that are my questions :)
have a good day

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dogman dan   100 GW

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by dogman dan » May 30 2018 8:57am

None of those hub motors will be strong enough. Too much weight. It doesn't go up that ramp without overheating quick. Ramp is short, mountains are long. I've melted the motors, others just want to sell you one. Listen to me.

Look at mid drive motor kits, like the bafang. Running the motor though the bike gears will let you climb hills with a ton of weight, by gearing down and going slow.

Or, heave a giant hub motor at it, like 2000-3000w. This could be two medium motors, like two of the macs, each running 1000w. That approach requires equally huge battery.

Voltage needs to match the controller. most 48v controllers would simply refuse to run on 24, 42v is their automatic shut off point.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by wineboyrider » May 30 2018 9:20am

I am a fan of tool packs, but not for long rides like touring. Mid drives are great, but chain maintenance sucks.
ES IS SAVED! THANK YOU JUSTIN.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by want to build » May 30 2018 12:00pm

good i like having different opinions ...

Do you knon anyone one es is doing touring with heavy 260 total weight?

seems like i have to choose between the hubs avove, middrive or maybe 2 q100 on same bike?

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by motomech » May 30 2018 8:26pm

To say that a hub motor can't handle the weight and hills without knowing anything about the hills is a blanket generalization.
Even the sm. Q100 will climb a steep hill if the rider can get a head start and the hill is not too long. A long hill that is not too steep likewise doesn't usually present problems for a hub motor. Hills like one might encounter in San Francisco ARE a problem, although it's been shown that two larger geared motor(MAC, BMC, BPM) can get the job done. But unless one lives in the Alps or the Rockies, those types of hills are not likely to be encountered.
So, to go further, you need to tell us what kind of hills you will encounter. Even filling out your profile would be a help.
I pull a trailer all the time on my 2WD and I weigh 250 lb.s, but I live in a valley and the hills might be long, they are not that steep.
SAM_1224.JPG
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

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motomech   1 GW

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by motomech » May 30 2018 8:34pm

second what happen when you use a 48 v motor with a 24 volt battery pack? can you do this without any probleme? if so it is better for me to take a hi voltage motor.
24 Volts is too low to be useful for an Ebike. They offer no advantages(except cost), only disadvantages. Most systems(controllers, motors don't care what the Voltage is)are for 36V/48V systems, although most will except 52 Volts. In general, a lower speed motor on higher Volts will be more efficient than a high speed motor on low Volts. If you really want to understand this stuff, I suggest you start reading thru the archives instead of just asking random questions. I read and studied here for 2 months before I ever made my first post.
In particular, you seem interested in a 2WD w/ Q100 motors. I did that for years experimenting w/ every possible combo of motor speed. If you search my posts using key words like Q100. Cute, 2WD, etc., you will find dozens of threads on the topic.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by want to build » May 31 2018 6:54pm

hi i edited first post for references about hills ABCD.

From what i understand, talking about hills mean talking about NM which i know not much about.

Wich of your post compare 2wd to mid . wich adress NM ?
it would help me
thx

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by Ozren » Jun 02 2018 3:18am

Expensive, but the Best: Bikee bike. Made for climbing, 120Nm. I have 500w climbing everyday, 1,8 km, 400m 42%. I bought it in Mart. so far, so good. :wink:

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by John and Cecil » Jun 02 2018 5:29am

We climb a lot of hills with our bike, and we weigh a combined 215lbs (rider + dog + dog carrier). We have a 750w tsdz2 mid drive and we can climb maybe an 8% grade without pedaling while maintaining at least 75% motor speed (about 8mph) with our current lowest gear. We plan on swapping our rear cassette for one with a wider ratio soon, that will allow us to climb 10% grades without pedaling at 6mph. Climbing hills at low engine speeds is not good for the motor so you need to design your gearing to accommodate your riding conditions. You are going to want at least a 750w motor depending on how steep the climbs and how much effort you wish to put in when climbing. I would suggest a 48v or 52v motor. Mid drives like the BBSHD, BBS02, and TSDZ2 52v might work ok for you depending on how steep the hills are there, how fast you want to go, and how much you want to pedal. The BBSHD is the most powerful out of the 3 that I mentioned.


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dogman dan   100 GW

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by dogman dan » Jun 02 2018 7:32am

FWIW, that bikee is a mid drive.

I never said a hub motor can't climb a hill. But I have done the tests, and fried the motors, exploring the real world weight, grade and length limitations of typical hub motors. I did this professionally, for a major e bike kit retailer I worked for.

For a typical 350w rated geared hub motor given 750w, 36v 22 amps, they become too unreliable to warranty above 200 pounds load. This load is bike, motor, battery, cargo and person. When selling this shit, you must assume that grades will be steep, and the grade long. OF COURSE a short hill is plenty possible. But to tour, or warranty it, you gotta stay under the load limits. In fact, a ten mile long 8% grade hill is no problem when under the weight limits I state here. That mountain has a profile exactly like Alp D Huez in the TDF.

Our testing used a hill 5 miles long, with a grade that starts at 1%, then goes to 6% for the last two miles. Meltdown tended to happen about mile 5, after a full mile of the 6%. This was running overloaded to melt them. All easily made the top if you did not overload.

For the larger 500w rated geared hubs, they could stand up to 300 pound loads, to the top of that mountain, and run 48v 22 amps.

The direct drive motors rated 500w, could do the 48v with 400 pounds total loads.

I'm not saying this made any of the motors happy at the top, just that they did not melt down completely. For a 400 pound total load, like a 200 pound person on a bike loaded to go camping, the ideal hub motor is a much heavier, higher wattage motor, run on 48v 40 amps. Keeps it able to climb that steep long hill above 15 mph, and staying in the efficient rpm so the thing stays fairly cool no matter how long the hill.


But if you want to climb the rocky mountains on 500w or less, it must be mid drive IMO. This is assuming your basic camping load, including perhaps 2 gallons of water, weighs 50 pounds, and you weigh 200. If you weigh 150, then its not so hard to get under that 300 pounds limit for a dd motor running 1000w. My touring weight was usually around 400 pounds, so I had to go big on the hub motor to tour up the mountain.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by wineboyrider » Jun 02 2018 9:40am

dogman dan wrote:
Jun 02 2018 7:32am
FWIW, that bikee is a mid drive.

I never said a hub motor can't climb a hill. But I have done the tests, and fried the motors, exploring the real world weight, grade and length limitations of typical hub motors. I did this professionally, for a major e bike kit retailer I worked for.

For a typical 350w rated geared hub motor given 750w, 36v 22 amps, they become too unreliable to warranty above 200 pounds load. This load is bike, motor, battery, cargo and person. When selling this shit, you must assume that grades will be steep, and the grade long. OF COURSE a short hill is plenty possible. But to tour, or warranty it, you gotta stay under the load limits. In fact, a ten mile long 8% grade hill is no problem when under the weight limits I state here. That mountain has a profile exactly like Alp D Huez in the TDF.

Our testing used a hill 5 miles long, with a grade that starts at 1%, then goes to 6% for the last two miles. Meltdown tended to happen about mile 5, after a full mile of the 6%. This was running overloaded to melt them. All easily made the top if you did not overload.

For the larger 500w rated geared hubs, they could stand up to 300 pound loads, to the top of that mountain, and run 48v 22 amps.

The direct drive motors rated 500w, could do the 48v with 400 pounds total loads.

I'm not saying this made any of the motors happy at the top, just that they did not melt down completely. For a 400 pound total load, like a 200 pound person on a bike loaded to go camping, the ideal hub motor is a much heavier, higher wattage motor, run on 48v 40 amps. Keeps it able to climb that steep long hill above 15 mph, and staying in the efficient rpm so the thing stays fairly cool no matter how long the hill.


But if you want to climb the rocky mountains on 500w or less, it must be mid drive IMO. This is assuming your basic camping load, including perhaps 2 gallons of water, weighs 50 pounds, and you weigh 200. If you weigh 150, then its not so hard to get under that 300 pounds limit for a dd motor running 1000w. My touring weight was usually around 400 pounds, so I had to go big on the hub motor to tour up the mountain.
Why I built a BBS 02 mountain bike is because the hills here in the southern Rockies are steep. I have seen your touring setup with the big crystalyte motor .
ES IS SAVED! THANK YOU JUSTIN.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by Ianhill » Jun 02 2018 9:44am

Good advice dogman.
3k 4t mxus gets the job done for me in a 16inch moped rim, I'm feeding it 10s 80 phase amps (1500w) and it gets the job done easily I climbed some crazy shit and never even got mildly warm, It's geared for me to peddle along upto 20mph on single speed, I cruise it at 10-15 and get up anything steep as can be crawling on gravel no problem it will not tap out. I need a trailer do the cruising malarkey.
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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by 999zip999 » Jun 02 2018 1:42pm

BBSHD at 52v and a 25ah or. ? battery in the triangle. Check out em3ev.com

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by want to build » Jun 02 2018 5:08pm

I have taken a look at mid weels and read on it. correct me if im wrong but installing a mid (like the planetary systeme from luna) means that you can not use the 3 rings from the pedalier for a regular 18 -21speed. If it in not possible to use the 21 speed .gnnnn it annoys me because i want to be a traditional cyclist with the option of motor power for hills and if im tired. With mid motor, i sense that your small gear is not very small and your higher gear is not very high... i want to exercise and dont search for high speeds .


I wrote 4 types of hills ABCD in the opening and i would like to know how to determine wich hills a bafang 500w hub cst could go up without damaging anything and wich couldn t it. I imagine we can monitor the température in the motor and i would stop if heat goes to high but at the same time, if i stop in the middle of a hill , from what i have understood it will not be possible (or easy) for the hub to go up again since i would start at speed zero with 300 lbs total uphill.

I tought about maybe using a 2wd 2 times q100 350w but would those be enough?. is it wise to try to find out the number of n-m for each motor and add them up to have an idea?

i d like to know what you think about those ideas. I also like the idea to have a one q100 350w at rear cst plus one bafang 500w at front so that when not in hill i can use the quiet q100 only. Also i like this idea because when not touring, i could remove the front wheel and put a usual wheel(no motor) so that it is less attracting to theifs in town with one little hidden rear motor of 150$. But that is not my primary target. my needs are about touring usage with cargo, precisely what to choose to go up hills without prob.
Last edited by want to build on Jun 02 2018 5:26pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by Jon NCal » Jun 02 2018 5:15pm

You can use this online motor sim tool to see when your motor will overheat:
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by Ianhill » Jun 02 2018 6:16pm

Ebike.ca
Praise the Lord. Amen.

With out that site I would not have laced my own wheel or worked out my efficency levels to a fine tolerance of perfect.

It's astonishing how accurate the chart is, I can plug all my specs in a get very close to my actual power usage and the rating of the bike with the pages spreadsheet formula we rewrote how my bike will behave and it did absolute golden piece of the Internet should be protected to the very end.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by John and Cecil » Jun 02 2018 7:13pm

Some people have run multiple front chainrings on mid drives, but I do not think they are all that necessary. Personally I like a nice wide ratio rear cassette. With all those gears you will be shifting all the time. For Cecil and I, especially with all the weight we are pushing, I prefer an 11-40 8 speed rear set up top out at 30mph @90rpm (tsdz2 max speed) in 8th gear and 8mph @90rpm in 1st gear. I can avoid 1st except for climbing hills and I mostly just use 2-6/7. A nice spread of the gears helps with making clean shifts.

First off figure out how fast you want to be able to pedal (our 30mph at 90rpm in 8th is actually about 45mph at full pedal speed going down a steep hill), then design your gear ratio to accommodate your top speed and run a wide ratio rear to give you some more hill climbing power (slower speed).

I think 300lbs and a 500w hub is not going to work for hills unless it is geared to only go under 10mph. We are 275lbs with riders and bike weight and 750w motor and we can only climb maybe 8-10% grades without running the risk of overheating the motor(without pedaling) - and that is in 1st gear that at the moment maxes out at 10mph on flats.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by want to build » Jun 04 2018 4:48pm

hi
I went to to do a test drive without cargo
the firts bike was a yamaha sport 259w with 36 v 11am mid drive
the second was a velec 350 w 48volt 10 amp.

wow both of them had a lot of drag when motor off . It makes me realise that i sould have mention that my intention is to pedal without motor power most of the time and would just use the motor for hills. unless there is a way to reduce the drag it is not realistic for me to go touring human power with that kind of drag.

about cargo, the guy told me that with arear hub it is not possible to use a torque sensor if i have a trailer due to the trailer having an effect on the rear axel.. is he right about that?

now my toughts are: is there an easy way to remove the mid motor Cyclone 3000W or its chain when im not using it and reinstall it when i encounter a hill? how long would it take to remove a part of it in order to have zero motor drag? im guessing that for rear hub i would have to carry a second wheel wich could be possible to replace the back wheel.how long would the wheel changing take?

also, since it seems easy remove drag with a friction drag , could a friction drive be strong enough for my need?( in dry condition)

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by John and Cecil » Jun 04 2018 5:15pm

I don't think there is any noticeable drag on my tsdz2 mid drive when it is off. I only have a 2ah battery and I often ride it when it is turned off since my battery will only go a few miles anyway. It rides like a normal (but heavy) bike when it is turned off. There are people using the tsdz2 mid drive motor with trailers and it has a torque sensor.

I think you should try talking to someone else.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by Bg-electric-cycle » Jun 06 2018 7:47am

All this chatter of this and that wattage of a hub motor makes no sense. Really have to open one up and check the gauge of wire on the windings.

I’ve an alleged 500 watt 36 volt hub. Max out at 40-50kmh or approximate 30 mph, although optimum speed distance is presently 25kmh or 15mph. It’s with a 35Ah lithium pack and hill climbs and recent climbed a mountain tarmac road with no problem, although was new to the road and did peddle.

I took the bike out the previous week 86 miles on three charges, third charge was only a top up to get me home quicker.

It’s heat that kills hubs and batteries and if are intending situations of high heat buy some heat sink fins and fill the hub with transformer oil and fit a heat sensor to monitor heat output.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by parajared » Jun 06 2018 11:51am

I would use a direct-drive hub motor over a mid-drive or a planetary due to reliability.

As mentioned above you need enough wattage to accomplish your tasks otherwise your motor will overheat. My best guess is 2 kilowatts continuous to be safe.

24 volts would be just fine if you could find the right hardware. E-bike manufacturers don't build escs and motors for high wattage 24v applications though, instead they make voltage do the heavy lifting. Remember volts x amps = watts. Everything on the market seems to be built for about 36-60 volts in the power demands you are interested in.

As far as batteries go, Li-Fe batteries will last longer be more reliable and hobby batteries will be more widely available. If you have a battery crap out on you mid-ride, you can scoop another battery up at a hobby shop.
what are the advantages disadvantages of chosing 350 or 500watt why?

Weight. You need more magnet and more copper to truly increase a motor's wattage rating.
What are the advantages ans disadvantages to choose a 36 vs vs 48v.
Wire guage. A 36 volt and a 48 volt system built for the exact same wattage and rpm will be identical with the exception of how fat the phase and battery wires are. Noobs will tell you that 48 volts is more powerful or more torque or something but they are wrong.
Could i run a 48 volt with 36 volt battere? Good idea? vice versa
You bet, assuming you have the esc for it you can pretty much run as much amperage and voltage down these motors as you want. The limit is heat, if you cut off at about 110 celcius you should be fine. It's possible to run so much voltage down a motor that the electricity jumps through the film around the wires, but what you are talking about is well within overvolt protection limits.
would a 328 48v 500w climb hills easily? i read the 328 have better speed possibilité than 201 but no mention about hills....
500 watts won't get you up a steep hill with a load of camping gear in tow. You can game the system a little by using a mid-drive. That is to say you can use a lower wattage motor to accomplish an optimal torque for the given rpm. In essence you could climb a steep hill with a smaller motor in "granny gear". In my own personal tests with mid-drives I find that mid-drives will slowly bend/mess up your bicycle gears if used at power levels above about 1200 watts or so but I think a 1200 watt mid-drive could accomplish your task whereas you would be looking at maybe 2000 watts with a hub drive.

Whether or not a "328" motor can be pushed to 2kilowatts up a long hill or not without breaking 110 celcius I'm not sure of, maybe someone else can chime in on it's limits.

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Re: Which motor and battery for touring rinding with some hills

Post by parajared » Jun 06 2018 11:59am

It’s heat that kills hubs and batteries and if are intending situations of high heat buy some heat sink fins and fill the hub with transformer oil and fit a heat sensor to monitor heat output.
You remind me of my buddy who overclocks his computer CPU and uses a bunch of expensive cooling techniques to try and mitigate how much he is pushing his hardware beyond spec.

This seems silly to me because I think he should just get a more powerful CPU and stop fiddling around with crazed cooling stuff.

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