Ebikeling 500w Geared Hub Kit

DrkAngel

1 GW
Joined
Dec 15, 2010
Messages
5,300
Location
Upstate-Western-Southern Tier NY. USA
Next Project
500w Front Geared Hub (eBikeling)
Seems ideal as a manual or automatic pedal assist option.


700C-G-R-4.jpg

Just ordered one of the cheap ebikeling 500w geared front hub motors for one of my 8spd disc brake mountain bikes. Will upgrade tires and seat and dedicate as my pedal assist transporter. Bike has trigger shifter built onto brake handles, so twist throttle will work nicely, thumb throttle seems imprecise-annoying - IMO.

Anyone have better specs on ebikeling 500w geared hub motor?
Cruising speed?
No load motor speed?

Will graph up speed and assist capability after received and built.
Objects:
No load motor speed;
Point at which controller drops off max amp usage;
used to graph motor output chart.
To determine motor output at various speeds and how much assist beyond motor only cruising speed.

I ordered the cheap LED PAS module as I, preliminarily, intend testing and use in throttle only mode.
Will sell and try the LCD version dependent on experience and feedback.
 
Yeah, they really don't give one much info.
It appears to be a Bafang "8-Fun" SWX02, which at 3.6 Kg.s is a mid-size geared motor. By way of comparison, the Bafang minis are around 2.3 kg.s, while the large BPM is 5 Kg.s. It's on par w/ the Q128.
It's not listed on the Ebike CA sim. but I guess a guy could research the Bafangs that are and if any of them weigh about the same, use that model as a sub.
The only real important unknown is the motor speed. As I recall, when they started up, Ebiking supplied some mini's in a high-speed, which was really dumb, but I'm pretty sure they got their heads on straight and they are only using the much more useful mid-speeds. Assuming it's a 260 rpm rated @ 36 Volts, which in a 26" whl. should do low 20's mph on 36 Volts and mid 20's mph on 48 Volts.
It's hard to tell from only pic.s, but the controller looks fairly large, maybe a 9-FET. It should be in the 20 to 25 Amp rated range and the motor probably could take a 30 Amp rated controller. That would probably be about the most Wattage a guy would want on the frt. whl. That set-up starts to get squirrly above 1000 Watts.
If it's like the MXUS geared mini I have used, the sm. diameter/wide body form factor brings the spoke heads real close to the frt. brk. caliper. I've had to grind them down in the past.
 
The ebikeling geared hub motors kits are surprisingly good for the price. I have been riding on and off for about 2 years with the ebikeling kit. The motor probably has around 1K miles and still going strong. It goes 20 mph with a 36v battery.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1231.JPG
    IMG_1231.JPG
    233.4 KB · Views: 7,812
sonnetg said:
The ebikeling geared hub motors kits are surprisingly good for the price. I have been riding on and off for about 2 years with the ebikeling kit. The motor probably has around 1K miles and still going strong.
Full throttle motor only cruising speed?
Assist for higher speed?
more info?
 
DrkAngel said:
sonnetg said:
The ebikeling geared hub motors kits are surprisingly good for the price. I have been riding on and off for about 2 years with the ebikeling kit. The motor probably has around 1K miles and still going strong.
Full throttle motor only cruising speed?
Assist for higher speed?
more info?

Ah...i forgot to mention. It goes about 20 mph with a 36v battery. It is nice and compact. No one even notices my bike is an ebike...so this has been my favorite ebike so far. :lol:
 
Received motor kit.
Looks impressive ...
12ga spokes
Nicely chrome plated

Controller is labeled 36V/48V and 22A
36V x 22A = 792w max battery supplied power for a realistic, up to, 500w motor output
48V option(?) is interesting but likely not recommended for reasonable motor life ... ? (might require 48V compatible LED module)

s-l1600.jpg



Lacks instructions, link to online installation instructions included on green cardboard

Will post up pictures and "instructions"
 
The capacitors inside the 36volt controller are rated 63 volts, so you should have no trouble with 48v batteries. I am not sure how the display unit will behave though. You should be able to hot-wire the controller to turn it on without the display unit. The throttle should still be functional.
 
Curious how this goes.

Looking for a reliable CHEAP 20-25 mph set up for my Sirris Sport Disc.
 
Very happy with my first 500W ebikeling kit with 36V 810LED unit. Controller was listed at 22A. Had 63V caps inside. I have run it on 48V. I get about 20 mph on 36V and 24 mph on 48V.

(Edited 12/8/2018)The original 810LED is an analog unit. Pressing the mode button changes the output to 1.0, 2.0, and 3.0 Volts (green wire to black), which are PAS level 1, 2, and 3. If the 6km/hr button is pressed, output is 4.0 Volts. This does not change when I plug in 48V, so I believe there's an onboard converter that will work with both voltages.The power led circuit is voltage specific, so it may be wrong. It's not coupled to the controller. While the display/controller works on 48V, the LVC is still set for 40V inside the controller so I have to be careful. Installing the 48V version of the 810led (I have one) will flash the LED's on low voltage, but the rider has to stop riding.

Not so happy with my 500W ebikeling kit with the SW900 LCD display. Kit was intended for DD motors. When power is off, the LCD cannot display speed. Did not find an input on controller for external speed sensor Should have one, but vendor has no info. Bigger problem is that all 5 PAS levels seem to be level 5. Vendor says I might have my voltage setting wrong, and offered another LCD, but I quit fiddling with it for now. It did run well under power though. Just too fast for PAS.

Now using a PSWpower 20A sinewave controller. Seems to work OK.

BTW, I think the LED and LCD controllers must be different as the SW900 s a serial device.

(edited 12/8/2018) The current 810LED with 5 pins shipped with ebikeling kits is now a digital design. It can be interchanged with the SW900 on the newer controllers.
 
Thanks, good info ... just what I wanted to know.

Will be further testing and graphing up a motor profile.
 
sonnetg said:
The capacitors inside the 36volt controller are rated 63 volts, so you should have no trouble with 48v batteries. I am not sure how the display unit will behave though. You should be able to hot-wire the controller to turn it on without the display unit. The throttle should still be functional.

Which wires need crossed to "hot wire"? Going for stealth on my bike and would like to rid the controller.
 
SeakYourOwnLevel said:
Which wires need crossed to "hot wire"? Going for stealth on my bike and would like to rid the controller.

I am not sure about the type of display unit you have, but the procedure below worked on my 880 and 810 LED units, with a 5-pin connector. The LED display mounts are notorious for breaking, so this was sort of my backup plan.

Turning on the 880 or 810 Ebikeling controller without the LED Display:

-> To turn it on, simply short the RED and BLUE wire on the controller.


Cheers.
 

Attachments

  • LED880_Display_Pins.jpg
    LED880_Display_Pins.jpg
    11.2 KB · Views: 7,479
They have various geared hubs of limited inventory but they replenish stock at intervals.

ebikeling home page
eBay
Check back often to catch new inventory.

Stock replenished!
 
I've used that kit (36v,500w 700c rear wheel) and 24mph with pedaling is no problem on high power. The controller has 2 blue power wires; open = no restriction: shorted = power diminishes to nothing at 20mph. It's really a good feature since the range in low power is fantastic at 19 mph since human power contributes a high % on the flat. It's really light and the bike coasts and handles like a non electric.

I believe it is only sold for 36v use. I've tested it with the 48v LED and the LCD display set for 48V and the motor pulses at high rpm. To be fair, I powered it with 54V, but all their other 48V controller/hub motors work fine at 54V. I've found no way to use their controllers without one of their displays (and I have tried).

Buy it with the LED display and add the LCD display as an extra. The total price is $5 more. But, using the their LCD display is kind of lame with a geared motor. The motor cuts off 100% when not in use (down hill) so it does not report mph or distance until you turn the throttle back on. A 20 mile ride will report way less.

If your giving up an decent 8 speed cassette setup for the 7 speed freewheel that comes with the kit, you won't be happy. The smallest cog is 14 so you will spin out at 20mph. You can buy 11/28 freewheels but they are much more expensive than cassettes.
Another solution is to buy new crank set with 53 or larger chain ring. Or, consider getting the front drive so you don't have to change things.

Good luck
 
sonnetg said:
SeakYourOwnLevel said:
Which wires need crossed to "hot wire"? Going for stealth on my bike and would like to rid the controller.

I am not sure about the type of display unit you have, but the procedure below worked on my 880 and 810 LED units, with a 5-pin connector. The LED display mounts are notorious for breaking, so this was sort of my backup plan.

Turning on the 880 or 810 Ebikeling controller without the LED Display:

-> To turn it on, simply short the RED and BLUE wire on the controller.


Cheers.

Ebikeling's 2017 and later controllers seem to require their 810LED or SW900LCD displays. Before 2017, a switch on the red and blue would turn on the controller and no display necessary. The new controllers get some sort of set up info from the displays when you turn them on. Wish it wasn't so.
 
I bought a current 2018 ebikeling kit with the 810LED. The old version 4 pin 810LED was analog. The newer one is a 5 pin digital unit, although the case looks exactly the same. Still comes in 48V and 36V versions though,

Haven't run this on a bike yet. Just hooked tested to see if it spins the motor. The three PAS levels do appear to give different motor speeds when twirling a magnet next to the sensor.

My old SW900 display also plugs into this controller, but doesn't work any better than it did before. PAS still is still herky jerky, MAybe that's a one-off problem.

By the way, the new kit includes a torque arm.
 
Has anyone overvolted one of these ebikeling motors with a 72v yet?

Prices are dumb cheap. Im intrigued by their front rim options because my back rims are already rented out. I always had a feeling I would get a spark to venture into 2wd, but wasnt expecting it at a time like this...
 
Controller has 63V caps.

Motor is designed, gears windings etc, for reasonable durability-lifespan at 36V.
With upgraded controller, might run at 72V ... briefly?
 
I did read this whole thread before asking or stating anything, but thank you for reiterating the volt cap on this $21 controller. Words like reasonable and might are extremely vague and non electric, not necessarily helpful or weighty at all. Please do note that I asked about overvolting the motor and not the youforementioned controller. My question/ probing was more from a real world inquisitory perspective towards someone with a physical copy of this motor in hand, to and or if and what when presented with a 72v (and reasonably so, I had an unquivering feeling that anyone reading this far down a thread at a geeky ebike forum would choose to run their 72v battery with a fitting controller, not the cheapo stock one one they knew would melt upon contact with a larger power unit), how and what the what does it ride and or feel like or smell like if it so does choose to burn up or chose itself to be rallyable and so on and so forth. From the sounds of it, there are some folks here who get paid to test and push these neandrathalic contraptions to their melting points.
As Im typing this Im looking over at my other screen and feeling a burning sensation to press that BUYITNOW button on a 700c Earthling front kit. They claim its 1200w motor. I have yet to melt any of my nicer 36-48v rated motors which Ive ran with a largery power force, but I have also never ran a motor on the front. Will report back in about a month if not earlier. Cheerio!
 
Firedog said:
If you're giving up a decent 8 speed cassette setup for the 7 speed freewheel that comes with the kit, you won't be happy. The smallest cog is 14 so you will spin out at 20mph. You can buy 11/28 freewheels but they are much more expensive than cassettes.

I recently purchased the Ebikeling 26" rear 500W 36V kit. I gave up an older, incompatible 8-sp 11-t gearset & am using the bundled 7-sp 14-t freewheel, which really changed the character of the bike. I'd like to have the 11-t behavior again, but am not exactly sure how to select the upgrade for my wheel.

I think the kit freewheel threaded onto the motorized-wheel-axle. I don't need 8-speeds, think 7 is fine. When I browse 11-t 7-sp or 8-sp gear solutions on eBay, some refer to a "Screw On 34mm thread", while others don't appear to have any inner threads that I can see.

I don't know exact bicycle terminology. What are the key specifications that I need to understand for selecting a new 7-speed 11-t gear set which will be thread-on compatible with my Ebikeling rear wheel ?

Is this eBay item: *** DNP Epoch Screw-on Freewheel 7 speed 11-28T Nickel Plated cog IN USA *** a good fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/DNP-Epoch-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I hope the link works... Thanks in advance.
 
Den458 said:
Is this eBay item: *** DNP Epoch Screw-on Freewheel 7 speed 11-28T Nickel Plated cog IN USA *** a good fit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/DNP-Epoch-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I hope the link works... Thanks in advance.

DNP is about the only game in town for a freewheel that has an 11T small gear. I have put DNP's on my 20" bikes, which really needed an 11T gear. The ebikeling wheel uses your standard freewheel thread. If you have amazon prime for free shipping, DNP's are a little less money on amazon.

Did you get the SW900 LCD or the LED? If the LCD, how does PAS work for you , and does speedometer show speed when coasting?
 
Back
Top