Power Loss Under Load

deano

100 mW
Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
41
Location
UK
This problem has occurred after many hours of running perfectly.

Take a look at video of issue https://youtu.be/1DEleU3gg9s

Full power is there with rear wheel off the ground. Revs out to full capacity. When I put under load, the power is gone. and stays like this through the test.

I switch off, then after a while switch back on and full power is there again, until I put load on the bike.
 
Probably hall sensor failure (or more likely, broken wire to one of the sensors). See http://ebikes.ca learn tab, troubleshooting for a how-to on testing them.
 
Many thanks for that. Have gone through all the Hall wires, outside the hub. No breaks, so must be in the Motor.

Will go for new rear motor, Shall I go for a Mac again? or know off a good one in the UK?
 
Its been a part so many times. I do not have the skills to go in there. I have a great friend, who had a go at it for me, even though its not his bag, but I believe his work has come loose as he put new hall sensors in and did his best to fix it for me.

Testing wise. took all installation off the wires from motor to controller. metered and tested all connections. Put bike tester on and all the halls worked in sequence as they should do. Like you say something is wrong in motor when underload,like lose hall or wire off.
 
Looks like some severe voltage sag there under load. It's dipping below 30v. Would that happen because of a an issue with motor hall sensor?

Looks to me like a battery issue. The controller or BMS is going into low voltage protection mode because it's sagging below this threshold.

What battery have you got?
 
Battery Pack is 16850 batteries. No BMS. Compressed. Charges to 66.7. Configuration is 16p cells x 3s = 48 x 2 = 96

My Pack has 96 of the https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-3400mAH-Lithium-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00D2UDSG8

bike-batt.jpg

Has been working sweet for 3 months. I can strip and test every cell and repack?
 
If you can get in there fairly easily then might be a good idea. A dead cell or two can have a big impact on the pack performance.

Not understanding your pack config though? Do you mean 16S3P x2 in parallel? What controller do you have?
 
Bingo! Striped me Battery Pack. Charged all 96 up on me Intellicharger. Came across three dud ones. (binned them)

I discharged several on me I-Mac. Capacity was fine. Repacked battery pack. I have done compression, just like a torch battery holder, so was easy to replace the dud ones.



She is kicking like a mule again, so all is good :lol:

Conclusion is that I either got water in there or they was just three bad ones in a batch of 110 (not bad) and slowly deteriorated over the three months of riding with this pack?

Many thanks for all your help. Donation coming, next pay day.
 
Could also be that those three (and any others that were not identical charge states to the rest) aren't getting good connections in the pack, so they drain and charge differently from the others, growing unbalanced over time, until they get so far out they're dead.

Since presumably those three were in parallel with other cells, then if the cells tehy were in parallel with were not also in the same charge state, then that means the connections *are* bad, becuase if they were good, they'd all be identical.

This also means that the cells they should have been in parallel with were working a lot harder than they should have to, so those are aging prematurely, and will also die.

Or that the dead cells were the ones with good connections, and were worked to death.

It's not an uncommon problem with compression-based packs; it's apparently difficult to get perfectly even compression and contact resistance, and without that, cells do not discharge/charge evenly.
 
points noted. thanks. I have spot solered the top of every cell. charged and then repacked, so should be getting good connection.

Get you on the different charge state and this could be my problem. Let's see what happens, until then, I am having some fun. love my e bike. :D
 
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