Mxus 5k turbo hub motor.

Hi, I'm new to forum,thank you. I wonder if you guys can give me some help or advice on a problem im having with a mxus 5k turbo hub motor. I can't seem to get a single speed freewheel to fit on the hub? I have tried two freewheels including a halo clickster and they both screw onto hub maybe 4 or 5 whole turns and then they bind up on thread? I don't want to force them on and damage hub so I'm thinking there the wrong thread or pitch? Everything I seem to find on net is a 1.375x24tpi which seems to be the standard size now? But I have no idea what thread size is on hub? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

Update on this problem. Had engineer measure threads on mxus hub and they are 1mmx25.4tpi which from what i can find out is an old obsolete French freewheel/cassette size?? And not the standard ISO 1.375x24tpi that seems to be the common freewheel thread size and pitch now? Why an earth would mxus use this thread on there hub?? How does everyone else get around this or do they just force an ISO freewheel on there with brute force and hope for the best?? Baffled.

You mean a 3,000 muxus turbo ? On mine I use a dnp 7speed freewheel. It's made for a freewheel not a cassette. Plus had to drill out freewheel tool for 16mm axle.

Hi, no this is a mxus 5000 watt motor,its 155mm wide so i dont think there is room for a cassette unless you have a very wide swing arm? I have just watched the video of this hub drive being opened and reviewed by the guy from West coast electric and he screws on a cassette to use a puller to remove motor casing and you can see when he screws the cassette on it only goes on about 3 or 4 turns and binds up?? And even he says its a 'standard' 1.375x24tpi thread?? Can't understand why they have used this size thread and i guess the mxus 3000watt must have the 1.375x24 thread or other people would find this a problem?

My 3k turbo has a 7speed Shimano mega something freewheel. Cheap and off the shelf (sub £20)

It seems you're not the only one to have this problem: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=91208

Based on what you've said it does sound like you probably have a French freewheel thread: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

Single speed freewheels with French thread seem pretty rare, but they do seem to exist from a quick google search. You may have to import one from France/Europe though: http://www.santucci-cycles.com/product/atom-singlespeed-freewheel-french-thread-nos/?v=3a52f3c22ed6

Hi, thanks guys for getting back to me. Yes seems like I'm not the only one then. I can't fit a 7 speed on it because my drop outs/ swing arm is 160mm wide and this motor must be a fair bit wider than the 3k motor so I haven't got space. I've sort if got around it buy fitting a 10mm screw on spacer that like the freewheel goes on about 4 or 5 turns,then I have machined out the first 5 or 6 mm of thread so it goes on nearly up to the face plate of the motor and then loctited in on! It's on there for good Now! Then I can screw the standard freewheel onto that. My way of thinking is that if the freewheel needs changing I should be able to get that off the spacer rather than trying to get the freewheel off the hub and damage the treads even more....if that makes sense?? Now I just have to try and spread the swing arm out 10mm to get the motor in the dropouts...havent tried that yet!! Still sorting another problem I've found in that the disc I fitted on rear hub is to close to motor plate and caliper hasn't got enough clearance!! Just ordered some disc rotor spacers. One problem after the next at the moment.

You can use tools, but if your frame is in a jig or hanging from a sling it would just be easier and quicker just to manually spread with your hands and have a friend drop the motor in the dropouts. Don't forget your chain

FWIW, the MXUS 5k discussion thread says it's threads are M35x1.

"Single-Speed freewheel, M35x1 Threads."https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=85582&p=1251770&hilit=freewheel#p1251770

r3volution said:

You can use tools, but if your frame is in a jig or hanging from a sling it would just be easier and quicker just to manually spread with your hands and have a friend drop the motor in the dropouts. Don't forget your chain

Click to expand...

Hi, yes that's the way I'm thinking! Now have the 3mm spacers for the rotor to space it out and now I'm thinking that buy the look of it the 6 button head Allen bolts are going to rub against the motor wires?? So next job is to maybe countersink the holes on the rotor and replace the button heads with countersunk Allen bolts! This I certainly becoming a challenge to build this bike!!

amberwolf said:

FWIW, the MXUS 5k discussion thread says it's threads are M35x1.

"Single-Speed freewheel, M35x1 Threads."https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=85582&p=1251770&hilit=freewheel#p1251770

Click to expand...

Hi,thanks for that,I've just had a read through it with the link you sent. I dont know if it's just me but if I put mxus 5k in the search box it doesn't find that thread?

Just a word of warning, if you have spacers installed for the brake rotor and spread the dropouts, your brake caliper may not align straight down onto the rotor. May I ask why you've chosen to install a 7 speed freewheel onto a high speed hub? You may be creating more problems.

r3volution said:

Just a word of warning, if you have spacers installed for the brake rotor and spread the dropouts, your brake caliper may not align straight down onto the rotor. May I ask why you've chosen to install a 7 speed freewheel onto a high speed hub? You may be creating more problems.

Click to expand...

Hi,I'm not,just a single speed free wheel,this 5k motor is wide and a single sped is just about all that will go on it,would need a swing arm over 200 odd mm wide to get a 7 speed on it. Swing arm is jut about 160mm wide with about 10mm of flex in it I hope?

.......................... So next job is to maybe countersink the holes on the rotor and replace the button heads with countersunk Allen bolts! This I certainly becoming a challenge to build this bike!!

Click to expand...

Rotors are very thin to begin with. Removing thickness around the mounting holes will certainly reduce the structural integrity of the rotor. It could possibly shear upon significant brake application.

BVH said:

.......................... So next job is to maybe countersink the holes on the rotor and replace the button heads with countersunk Allen bolts! This I certainly becoming a challenge to build this bike!!

Click to expand...

Rotors are very thin to begin with. Removing thickness around the mounting holes will certainly reduce the structural integrity of the rotor. It could possibly shear upon significant brake application.

Click to expand...

Hi, these are hope floating discs and thicker than standard discs,I won't be removing that much material from around the mounting hole. Thank you.

And I wondered why the freewheel doesn't go on that smoothly haha

Guys, I just installed a Mxus 5K, but for some strange reason the regen isn't working. Accelerates normally in forward, reverse etc.., no controller errors, tried using the second set of hall sensors and still no regen.

I had a Mxus 3K before on the same setup and never had any regen problems whatsoever, am using a Kelly KLS7218S controller.

The lever I use for regen is the universal thumb throttle, looks like this
are these prone to failure and I should get a new one?

Any ideas of what went wrong or how I can start troubleshooting this?

Duncan75 said:

And I wondered why the freewheel doesn't go on that smoothly haha

Guys, I just installed a Mxus 5K, but for some strange reason the regen isn't working. Accelerates normally in forward, reverse etc.., no controller errors, tried using the second set of hall sensors and still no regen.

I had a Mxus 3K before on the same setup and never had any regen problems whatsoever, am using a Kelly KLS7218S controller.

The lever I use for regen is the universal thumb throttle, looks like this

are these prone to failure and I should get a new one?

Any ideas of what went wrong or how I can start troubleshooting this?

Click to expand...

Hi, yeah it was a pain in the a##!! I gave up with trying to get the adapter to work that I bought and in the end I ordered the correct thread size single speed freewheel from the link above,santucci cycles,wasn't cheap and the postage was expensive but solved the problem.Why they put that odd ball thread size on the motor is beyond me!?? How are you getting on with your 5k?

Duncan75 said:

Guys, I just installed a Mxus 5K, but for some strange reason the regen isn't working. Accelerates normally in forward, reverse etc.., no controller errors, tried using the second set of hall sensors and still no regen.

Click to expand...

THe motor doesn't directly have anything to do with whether regen works or not, but if the controller only activates the regen if it detects feedback from the motor phases that matches what it expects from it's settings, then perhaps something is incorrect in controller settigns regarding motor parameters.

Most likely something is wrong in either the controller itself, it's settings, or the device you are using to activate regen (or the wiring to that device).

Since it worked before with a different motor, some of your options for troubleshooting are:

--reconnect the old motor and see if ti still works. If it does, then something in the setup of the new motor in the controller settings may be at fault. If it does not, then it could be something in the controller or the activating device or wiring.

--swap the throttle that you use for acceleration with the one you use for braking. If the results are identical, the devices are both good. If they are different, then either one of the devices is defective, or the settings in the controller are incorrect for it (or them).

--alternate to the above: measure the voltage on the signal wire of the regen throttle, and see if it still corresponds to the range set in the controller for activating regen.

--Note down your settings in the controller, reset it to factory defaults, and rebuild the settings from there, and retest.

Don't forget that you want to be absolutely sure you are not spinning the motor at all whenever you are accessing the controller from the computer's software, as that (or some variation thereof) is known to brick (destroy) at least some of Kelly's controllers. Be sure to read all warnings about that sort of thing in their manual(s) to be sure there are no ohter conditions you must avoid in order to preserve the controller.

Couple things that come to mind... Any chance of getting the forward and reverse directions mixed? As some controllers do not regen in reverse.
A fully charged and topped off battery may not regen.

Please bear with me a little more
Are the Mxus 5K and 3K phase wire colors different, would incorrect phase wiring disable regen?

I'll try to get this baby running soon, this cold outside seems like hub motor heaven.

I'd always assume that wire colors in motors and controllers could be completely random (though they are not), because I've seen different wire orders even in the same "model" of motor (or controller) from the same manufacturer, probably because of a mistake by the assembler. Between different runs of a motor (or controller), or different models, or different manufacturers, there is almost guaranteed to be variation. (some of them dont' even use different color wires; they're all green on one controller I use on SB Cruiser!).

Then you just either always run thru the combos of hall and phase wires to find the one with least no-load current at a normal speed in the correct direction, or use the controller's autolearn feature if it has one. That way you can be certain it is working correctly, without depending on "luck" to get the right combination.

Most of the time, the wire orders probably will be the same...but not always, and unless you open them up to see where they actually connected them, you can't know....