How quickly can hall sensors break?

Yermommy

10 W
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Mar 17, 2018
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I replaced the hall sensors in my mxus 3k on August 5th and yesterday (September 18th) they broke. I run about 6k-7k watts through it. Does this seem normal?
 
They are probably just getting too hot. I don't know if there are some other ones that can tolerate high heat, but that might be something to look into. All semiconductor components have temperature limits though.
 
dustNbone said:
They are probably just getting too hot. I don't know if there are some other ones that can tolerate high heat, but that might be something to look into. All semiconductor components have temperature limits though.

The quoted temperature range is -20c to 125c and I never let my motor go above 90c. I guess maybe my set wasn’t made with strict tolerances.
 
Seems odd that all three would expire at the same time... Is your temp sensor reading what the sensors are actually receiving. Location and thermal conduction? Or perhaps riding it hard, then abrupt shut down causing thermal overshoot.
 
Also maybe check the voltage going to the sensors. If they're getting overvolted (should be 5V going in) because the regulator on the controller is borked that would explain the short lifespan.
 
dustNbone said:
Also maybe check the voltage going to the sensors. If they're getting overvolted (should be 5V going in) because the regulator on the controller is borked that would explain the short lifespan.

That's possible but I can't be sure unless I take the controller apart.

The only thing that is strange is that the controller and throttle work for about 5-10 seconds of riding, then error out with a hall fault code. This has lead me to believe that the sensors are to blame.
 
Have you considered that the problem might be mechanical? I've had something similar happen where the pins were snapping off the sensors due to vibrations and centrifugal force. Solved it by potting the pins using RTV silicone elastomer to dampen vibrations.
 
I doubt I will ever go back to a ebike motor/controller setup that relies on hall sensors. My latest ebike build, uses a LYEN sensorless 18 FET controller, and it works flawlessly . Good Riddens to hall sensors and those stupid thin little hall wires.
 
That's one of the things I like about the Grinfineon controller I use with my BBS02. It will work sensorless, but running sensored it's much smoother and quieter (I think it only runs sinewave with sensors). If there's a problem with the halls or their wiring, I can just unplug them and carry on.
 
When you run hard, then suddenly stop, the motor loses all wind cooling, and the inside temp will spike more than you might think possible. When I fried halls in smaller motors pretty regular, they typically died while the motor was stopped, despite my attempt to run a bit of cool down time at low speed and power. Basically, once outside temps got to about 40c, the motor would not cool enough, and I'd fry the halls in a motor. Why would cooking off your halls not cook off all three? Assuming they did cook off.

Even very small, like 3 mm holes in the hub cover can help a lot with quicker cooling of the motor when you stop, even if pretty much totally ineffective while the motor runs. It also lets you smell it when you stop, when you are cooking off the windings. poor mans temp monitoring, stop when you smell fairly toasty windings, before you smell burnt.
 
dogman dan said:
When you run hard, then suddenly stop, the motor loses all wind cooling, and the inside temp will spike more than you might think possible. When I fried halls in smaller motors pretty regular, they typically died while the motor was stopped, despite my attempt to run a bit of cool down time at low speed and power. Basically, once outside temps got to about 40c, the motor would not cool enough, and I'd fry the halls in a motor. Why would cooking off your halls not cook off all three? Assuming they did cook off.

Even very small, like 3 mm holes in the hub cover can help a lot with quicker cooling of the motor when you stop, even if pretty much totally ineffective while the motor runs. It also lets you smell it when you stop, when you are cooking off the windings. poor mans temp monitoring, stop when you smell fairly toasty windings, before you smell burnt.

My hall sensors actually died in the middle of a ride; I had throttle and power then all of a sudden I had nothing...

I replaced all 3 sensors with new, higher quality sensors by Allegro Microsystems even though I verified that only 1 sensor was broken. I believe the broken one was making intermittent contact which was allowing the controller to pick up its readout for a few seconds, then lose it. I did not pot the sensors but I am now worried that they will break again in another month or two. If I get stranded 20 miles away from home, I will seriously re-consider ever using a sensored controller again.

Thanks for everybody's help and input.
 
I had a cable short while out on a ride 40km from home. Thankful was visiting a buddy and in the car the bike went.

Fried one hall sensor I also replaced all three.

Now run with a sensorless controller as a back-up. Although it’s got cruise control and regen therefore on occasions utilise a sensorless controller.

Does require some excertion as it’s not idea to try and apply power from a stop position.

Really need to get a meter into the Halls to attain what voltage is going through them as they should last the life of a motor. Subject to normal wear and tear.
 
You cooked em off, and will again. But since its fall, maybe not till next spring. 8)
 
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