TidalForce M750X triangle battery project

I just acquired a TidalForce M-750x (Folding Paratrooper model) with a dead original hub battery and looking for the best cost-effective battery for it.
At this point, I’m thinking making my own battery might be the way to go, so trying to spec it out.
What is the amperage rating of the stock TF controller? (primary determining factor, right?)
And if I’m climbing a long hill under full power, how many amps would I expect to draw?

oatnet said:

Turbo mode ... increases amps from 30a to 60a.
A TF motor will shut down when supplied with more than 45v; I used to run 12s LiFePO4 to stay just under this limit.

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Vnom for lifepo4 is 3.6v, but it comes off the charger at 4.2v, so with 12s, you are at 50.4 (however, right at initial use, it drops to 4v, so 48v at 12s) but you were able to use a 12s fine? I would be inclined to only charge it to 80-90% for longevity, so maybe it will work out just right. But will it damage anything if I give it a full charge?

Have been searching for a triangle battery 10s5p that might do the trick, but 36v triangles are hard to find, and usually still too large,
so now planning on making one to fit.
but maybe 12s6p is the way to go? Here is a sketch:


alternately, 2s Multistar 16000mah 22.2v packs might do the trick, but they are about $500 for the pair, so around the same price as lifepo4, which presumably will last more cycles/years, better range, and safer, too.
Maybe someone can break down the advantages of the Multistar route?

Or are there any ready-to-buy reputable 36-44v packs that are a great value now?

And which battery connections to use? The Anderson Powerpoles are not the best since they can be accidentally swapped and full turbo might melt them, so thinking to get out the solder and just go right for the XT60 and swapping out the existing connectors.

Hopefully this is enough to get this started! Thanks!

pretzilla said:

Vnom for lifepo4 is 3.6v, but it comes off the charger at 4.2v,

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Not if you're charging it correctly. It should be charged to 3.65v max, typically. The original "formation charge" at the factory may be 4.2v, but you wouldn't want to do that yourself, especially on a regular basis.

Also, it's nominal voltage is 3.2v/cell, not 3.6v.



There's a lot of connectors you can use.

Regarding andersons, PPs come in several sizes; and then there's the SB series, htough the PP75 and SB50 (using same contacts) are much larger than the 45. PPs of all sizes can be locked together so they are then "polarized" and cannot be accidentally swapped. Using different colors helps if there's enough light to see by when handling them; same color can be used if you use different color wires, or differetn color short heatshrink on the wires just past the contacts/housings.