XLD Brainpower motor controller XunLiDa

pavlik1

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Joined
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Switzerland
Hello

I need some help regarding XLD Brainpower motor controller XunLiDa.

I have two wersions of it:
Model: KSLA19 no LCD
Model: KSLU37 with LCD

The one with LCD is installed on e-bike with Bionx (internal controller removed) motor. It works OK, just the regen braking is not there.

When the brake low SL is activated, the power is cu8t but no regeneration.

t will be great if someone point the pad for regenerative brake.

See the pictures (attached or links)

KSLU37
AF1QipM83pb75VG63LVLUMJFl-4xNYv3Hqj4pjsxcW8x

AF1QipOiNAb44bEDxZfKEWYao7huXIhgNENX3gg6c-2R

AF1QipNyKEcWqGLWQrnIfjGrosR3QfDt0YaxGvMtWDJF

AF1QipNdqTJPMCW0ut8I6_al6e2fbAhTHf_zFLNSI5ph


KSLA19
AF1QipP_ANqVLf9tPlXmujkO3Hns0BedUMNdZXxh8ELz

AF1QipN_-PR9K4VROibbNQq5UoIj639T93bQrQ0mmq-I

AF1QipMocTw6cpCSFv4kdL77kRNWygV9MVy4FVXAD5n8


link to the album with photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/oVanPu1UuJinCNdn6

in case the photos from google can not be seen:


thank youView attachment 120181008_192032s.jpg
 
It's possible that regen is not a feature on that model. Have you ever seen one that has it?
 
Hello

Sometimes it is hard to understand the Chinese "English"

in some places they listed: "Intelligently control the voltage and current during EABS" which make me think about regen braking.

The display has some settings but nothing about regen:

Press simultaneously button up and down will go in to setting interface


P0 set battery low voltage protection point , can be fine tuned with small pot.
24v battery—low voltage protection point 20v
36v battery—low voltage protection point 31v
48v battery—low voltage protection point 42 v

P1 SET rim diameter , unit inches
rim is 26inches, then make it 26

P2 INTERFACE SET motor magnetic poles
Common 26inches geared motor should be 45

P3 set speed testing standard
Motor internal HAL use 1,
if take external speed test hall then set is 0 ???

P4 interface setting speed display unit
0 kilometer
1 miles
 
Can someone help with the Chinese translation of the attached picture. The controller Above is the same
TB281BMh8smBKNjSZFsXXaXSVXa_!!140088562.jpg
 
Hi Folks
Struggling with these pinouts on XLD "Brainpower " sine wave 48v 1000w controller can anyone help with functions_ no prob with phase, hall, and ignition but confused about the rest. All connectors cut off and no instructions . Obliged.
 
My chinese is not good enough to translate the diagram, but that's what you really need.

I have worked on similar controllers and there may be several wires that go to optional features that don't need to be attached.
 
I keep tripping over these XLD "Brainpower" controllers - and was intrigued enough to order two flavours of them (neither with LCD, but with two different power ratings). One is coming from China, and the other from Amazon. When they arrive, I'll jump in to reverse engineering fun of it all :). They claim to be sine wave units, and I paid less than $100 Canadian for the pair of them - so I'm actually coming at this with low expectations. But some of my favourite stuff is the stuff I paid the least for, so who knows?

There is very little information on these, but the standout so far is that they appear to use floating external wires where one would normally expect to find a jumper on the PCB. Both the regen and a phase learning feature, for example, on one of the controllers I have coming is enabled by connecting together the two like-coloured wires that hang out of the unit for each of the associated functions. There's also a "speed" connector that looks suspiciously like it may act like the speed selector pads on the Xie Chang controllers.

Will chime in again when I have one of these puppies in hand.
 
OK, so the first of the XLD controllers arrived (the smaller one, from Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DQJJV46/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Gotta say, for $40 (Canadian), it seems put together better than expected, though the bar was low. Upon seeing this thing in person, and revisiting this thread, it occurs to me that variants of this thing - at least units that seem to run with the same unique MCU - have been discussed on ES for some years. I haven't worked my way through all of the threads yet, but this is flavour I now have in hand. It doesn't have the hookup for the external LCD, so I'm not sure how radically different it is at its core.

View attachment 7

Wiring:



View attachment 6

PCB:

View attachment 5

BottomPCB.jpg

Chip.jpg

After changing out a lot of the connectors for something I can actually attach to a bike (Andersons and JSTs), it did install painlessly. The auto-learn feature for the phase/hall wiring worked well (you connect together the green wires, power up the bike, and it starts spinning the wheel. If it's spinning the wrong way, you touch the throttle and it reverses - disconnect the green wires, and this setting is remembered). There is a speed connector on there that does the expected. There are three speed settings - leave the connector open, and the motor runs to the middle setting. Short black to grey, and the top speed is reduced. Short black to white, and you get 100%.

There is a pair of grey wires whose function is claimed to be "EBS". These come connected together out-of-the-box. Sure enough, if you apply the brake (I have it wired to the "brake low" input), the motor is slowed down to a complete stop. My suspicion is that this isn't actually doing any regen - it's just shorting the phase wires to get the braking effect. I won't be able to prove this until I try the controller out on a bike with a Cycle Analyst on it.

Now - there *is* the often found tie between the EBS (or regen, if true) function and LVC. This controller claims to be a "36/48V" unit, and to auto-detect its power source. When I have the controller connected to a 10S lithium pack (whose state of charge was at around 39V when I was testing), the EBS feature works as expected. If I connect my usual 12S pack (which was hot off the charger and running at 49.9V), the EBS feature DOES NOT work.

Studying the PCB, there is an interesting resistor array that appears to be in parallel with one of the resistors that form what I'm assuming is part of the voltage divider that is feeding the LVC measurement to the MCU.

View attachment 2

Any of these resistors can be jumpered to GND to change the balance of the voltage divider. It's interesting that the options go all the way up to 80V. The board is not populated with components that would allow you to even think about going there. The caps are 63V units, and these are the FETs that come with this thing:

FETs2.jpg

Those are 68V parts.

For giggles, I jumpered the "60V" resistor in the LVC array, and now EBS (or regen, if true) works with the 12S pack. The bike won't run, however, with the 10S pack - evidently, the LVC *has* moved up, well above 39V - I need to go back at this with a variable power supply to determine what the real cut-off values are. At least, if none of them are satisfactory, there's a clean place on the board to play with different resistor values :).

Anyways, I thought I toss this out there - the markings (and chip used) on this board seem to be very similar to the board posted earlier in the thread. I've mapped out where all of the coloured wires go, and what the do (though I have no idea how the "alarm" feature is used), so FWIW - this is the diagram:





The "power and electric lock" function is straightforward. The heavy red and black are your main battery power, and the orange wire is the "ignition" which provides battery power to the actual controller logic.

Phase and hall wires are standard, as well. There's a group of pads on the PCB - "5V", "U", "V", "W", and "GND" all together. These are the red, yellow, green, white, and black hall wires, respectively.

The EBS brake wires are both grey and, when jumpered together, turn on the braking (or regen, if true) capability - provided the LVC and power source are compatible. These are connected to pads labelled "DS" and "X" on the PCB

The "high potential brake" (it's purple) is an input signal that would be used if this controller were used on a scooter. You'd connect this to the same 12V signal that drives the bike's tail light. It goes to "SH" on the PCB and has the same effect as shorting the low potential brake.

The low "low potential" brake (the one most of us actually use) is a black and white, going to "GND" and "SL", respectively. When shorted, this switches off motor power and activates EBS.

The throttle ("handle accelerator", as diagrammed) is red, white, and black. Red goes to "+4.3V", black to "GND", and white to "SD" - the latter being the actual throttle signal.

The "gear switch" is the 3-speed control. Black goes to "GND", grey to "K1", and white to "K2". Left open, the motor runs at its "medium" speed. Short black to grey, and speed is reduced to "low". Short black to white and you get full speed.

The "reverse function" (brown and black, going "DC" and "GND", respectively) reverses the motor when shorted.

The "cruise function" (blue and black, going to "Q" and "GND", respectively) holds your current speed when shorted.

The "autometer signal" is interesting. It seems analogue (though probably just buffered PWM). The faster you go, the more voltage you read on this line. What's weird is that it hangs out of the controller, unprotected and uninsulated, but ramps up as high as 18V when the bike is at full throttle on a 39V pack. It's blue, and connected to "S+". I have no idea how I'd use this, though driving a regular analogue panel meter could be fun. :)

There are two connectors for an alarm function - which I have NO idea about.

Alarm power (red and black) goes to pads marked "PS+" and "GND".

Alarm signal is three wires - Grey goes to "A3", white goes to "W", and orange just brings back out full battery voltage (it's directly connected to the orange "ignition" wire).

Dunno if any of this is useful, but its the first time I've had my mitts on one of these "X806M" based controllers.

I'm dubious about the "sine wave" output of this thing. So far, the motor I'm playing with sounds exactly the same as it did with the older model Infineon job that was previously on there.
 
OK - and one final one...

Using a variable power supply to figure out where the "real" LVC kicks in, it looks like the "auto-detecting" feature that this controller is alleged to have (auto-sensing 36 vs 48 volt operation) doesn't have any smarts behind it at all. No matter whether you feed the controller 36 or 48V, the LVC trips at 33V - and doesn't release until voltage gets back to 35V. Not really useful if you were genuinely running this thing at 36V. Does anybody really DO that?

So I tacked a multi-turn pot into the jumper for the 60V setting and twiddled with it over the voltage range of 35 - 50V. I determined that a value of around 18K coaxed the LVC up to around 36V. This suits me fine on a 12S LiPo pack, as I wanted the controller to trip BELOW the circuitry I have on the actual pack itself. More importantly - the "EBS" feature works on the larger pack with this mod, as well. So I took out the pot and just bridged the pads with an 18K surface-mount resistor. LVC is at 36.1V, and EBS still works on 12S.

LVCBridge.jpg

Still haven't determined if there is any genuine regen happening (as opposed to just braking), as I fried a piece of gear when setting up to test this when I inadvertently reversed the polarity of my power supply. D'oh!
 
Hey can you help me a Lil i have bought this controller for like a week now and i couldnt make it work any gess of what could It be ???
Like no power to the motor and what you need to do with like the Orange wirre and the alarm signal wire
I think the problem is there...
Thanks
 
Rodrigoperez said:
Hey can you help me a Lil i have bought this controller for like a week now and i couldnt make it work any gess of what could It be ???
Like no power to the motor and what you need to do with like the Orange wirre and the alarm signal wire
I think the problem is there...
Thanks

The only wires you need (correctly) connected for the controller to actually turn the motor are the power, "ignition", hall sensors, phase wires, and throttle. The "ignition" wire needs to be connected to to the battery, the same as the main power line (many people just tie them together). This is the orange wire that's part of the three contact power connector, as the unit ships, and they refer to it as "electric lock" in the diagram I posted earlier in the thread. You can completely ignore the "alarm" wires - I have no idea what these do, and will remove them (along with some of the other wires I don't use) - just to clean things up.

Assuming everything is connected, it's possible that you have a mismatch between the controller's configured voltage and the battery you are using. If your battery is below the LVC (low voltage cut-off) that the controller is expecting, then you'll get nothing. If you've connected either of the brake lines, then disconnect those to make sure you aren't inadvertently triggering the cut-off associated with *them*.

Normally, there's a bit of an exercise to get the hall/phase wires sorted - with this controller, simply connecting the green auto-config ("intelligent identification", in the diagram) wires together should make the wheel spin (make sure the wheel is off the ground :)). If you're sure that power is wired correctly, and you've got enough voltage, then something is likely amiss with your hall/phase wiring.

Hope it's this simple!

Edit:

Just wanted to be clear about the "ignition"/"electric lock" (both misnomers, as far I'm concerned), in case it turns out to be this simple - you wouldn't want to to be running the battery randomly into any of the other orange or red wires on the controller. It's THESE wires that both need to be connected to the battery:


Power connector.jpg


You *can* install a switch on the orange wire, which is what the intention was of bringing that wire out separately.
 
@ philf
Hello philf, thanks for sharing the info
 
Hello

Just to confirm when DS and X are connected, the regenerative braking is working. The brake is connected to the provided wires outside the box.



Thanks to philf for all the effort.
 

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Hi All

I have a BrainPower Motor Controller as pictured in pavlik's post above. It is coupled with a S866 LCD display unit as shown here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24V-36V-48V-Electric-Bicycle-Controller-with-LCD-Display-Panel-Electric-Bike-Scooter-Brushless-Controller-E/32907301576.html

I want to replace the controller and display on a bike with a 36V 250 W rear hub drive and a simple display that has just 3 PAS levels and LEDs for showing battery status. The main problem is that the PAS levels 1 and 2 stop delivering power at 8kmh, 18kmh respectively, and on level 3 it runs up to 30kmh. So it is hard to set a steady speed in the 20 - 30 kmh range.

I can't find any information on how to program the controller settings, but I have worked out a few settings by trial and error.

To enter the programming mode, you hold the "+" and "-" buttons down for a few seconds, and the display changes to the Programming mode. There are 20 settings that you can step through by pressing the Power button briefly.
I have listed the 20 settings below with Default, Range and Function.

Does anyone have any more information on this unit, or some insights on the various settings please?

Also there are connections shown for lights - how do you activate the lights?

Many thanks for any help with this.


----------------------------------
Programmable Settings on S866 LCD Display

1. Default: 3 Range: 1, 2, 3 LCD backlight brightness level
2. Default: 0 Range: 0,1 Sets Km or Miles
3. Default: 36 Range: 24, 36, 48 System voltage ??
4. Default: 10 Range: 0 - 60 Unknown
5. Default: 2 Range: 1, 2, 3 Sets PAS level to 3, 5 or 10
6. Default: 26 Range: 0.1 inc Rim size??
7. Default: 80 Range: 1 inc Unknown
8. Default: 65 Range: 1 inc Unknown
9. Default: 0 Range: 0,1 Display shows "Start Zero" or "Start Non Zero"
10. Default: 0 Range: 0,1,2 Unknown
11. Default: 1 Range: 1 - 24 Unknown
12. Default: 5 Range: 0 - 5 Unknown
13. Default: 6 Range: 5 - 12 Unknown
14. Default: 13 Range: 1 - 20 Unknown
15. Default: 29.0 Range: 0.1 inc Unknown
16. Shows "000000 Km" Odometer for total distance travelled ??
17. Default: 0 Range: 0,1 Unknown
18. Default: 100 Range: 1 inc Unknown
19. Default: 0 Range: 0,1 Unknown
20. Default: 0 Range: 0,1,2,3 With default "0" the display backlight is on. With the other settings the backlight is off.
 
Hi,

I'm trying to build a paragliding winch and I decided to start with cheap e-bike gear and then purchase the more powerful controllers and hubs once I have the wiring and software worked out.

I've got a cheap 24v 350W brushless hub motor and a KLD Brainpower motor controller model KSCTW13. Of course there was no documentation with anything. I found the wire map so I know which wires to use.

I connected the motor and controller and fed it 24v and when I connect the green auto learn wires it turns the hub motor correctly.

If I connect the EBS brake wire and spin the motor whilst also shorting the Brake low, it brakes and also generates a little current.

I don't have a hand throttle as I am planning to use an Arduino (actually ESP8266) to control the motor.

I've tried writing a simple program that uses Analogue write to output a rising voltage to one of the digital pins and I connected that to the input for the throttle sensor (white wire).

I can see the voltage stepping up as the program loops, but the motor does not turn. (I have a common ground between the controller and Arduino.)

I was assuming that the controller just took the input voltage and adjusted the speed with 0v being nothing and 5v being flat out.

I think I am missing something.

Can anyone educate me.
 
I've no idea why, but it suddenly started working. Possibly a lose connection! I'm OK now. Thanks.
 
Found some reference at Amazon.de, where I bought mine (KSLZV83). Trying to figure this out, having a real hard time! Useful info here, I'll be checking this community regulary!

The PDF is here, in mixed Chinese and English:
https://workupload.com/pdf/3WArPUMV
 
Hello,
This Manual was not so right for an XLD Controller Display.
XLD are using Custom Cable Color.
Swapping Yellow with Blue.... :shock:
My S866 have an Plug (Brown / White) for Lights, switches Battery Voltage over Displaybutton....fine,
but can nothing find about max. Current.
....and my Salesman remain silent... :lol:

@ hangflyer:
The Throttle needs DC, the PWM from your AnalogWrite was to much On/Off, try an RC Low Pass inline
R 47k and C < 1 µF should work....
 
I also have the kslzv83 controller with the LCD, I've seen listing on similar which can have a reverse function enabled. Looking at the PCB I can't see a "DC" on it. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
Hello, first of all, excuse me for my English.
I read the post of hangflyer and I must comment that these bicycle controllers need a real accelerator voltage to work, if a voltage simulated by pwm by analogue signal of an arduino board or similar does not work, a DAC type MCP4725 should be used to produce real volt signal, it is tested in several controllers models and works well, in this way you can use the pedaling cadence to raise the power of the engine, or intercept the signal of an accelerator to set it as cruising speed, You can actually do many types of projects on brushless motors.

Attached a manual for connections and information in case it is useful.

A greeting from Spain
 
ignacio said:
I read the post of hangflyer and I must comment that these bicycle controllers need a real accelerator voltage to work,
If the controller is like the rest of the common ebike controllers, it only requires about 1-1.4v minimum throttle voltage (to start working) and takes a maximum of about 3.5-4v (where it stops responding further, or errors out). The amount of current needed is usually at most a few mA.

So anything that produces the correct voltage range and can source enough current will operate the common controller types (almost certainly including this one).


If the Arduino/etc can't produce enough voltage at the higher end of the range, then it could simply have an op-amp on it's output that is powered from the controller's 5V. Or a transistor amplifier could do the same job.
 
The problem is that arduino and other microcontrollers that do not include DAC only provides 0 or 5v in their digital outputs, although it can produce a variable voltage, but always by PWM signal, which does not recognize the usual controllers, that is why there is a need to work with a digital-to-analog converter (DAC), and certainly the controller does not start the engine neither below 1.10 volts nor above 3.90
 
Easy to make a "DAC" via low-pass RC filter, if the frequency doesn't vary, just the duty cycle. If a simple RC wont' work for some arduino-design reason, a low-pass op-amp RC would.

An actual DAC would work too, it just complicates the programming and circuitry a bit more. ;)
 
Hello,

I've just bought the controler XLD Brainpower in order to control a wheel for a scooter.

My motors got 2 wires for power + 3 wires for brusless command + 5 wires far Hall command.

So I'm lost with all the wires of the XLD Brainpower controler.

It is possible to use the XLD controler with only the :

2 wires for battery
5 wires for Hall
3 wires for phase line motor

+ 3 throttle wires
+ 2 reverse wires

and not plug the rest of wires, could it work ?

Thanks for your help.
 
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