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- Thread starter Rony
- Start date
At least some of the BionX motors ahve their controller inside. If yours is like that, then to disconnect the motor from the controller (to verify if it's an electrical or mechanical problem) you'd have to unlace the wheel from the motor so you can open it up, then disconnnect the phase wires from the motor coils to the controller board inside. This is a last step, to be done only if you can't find any other problems, because unless you're experienced at wheelbuilding (lacing, tensioning, truing) then it's a learning process to put it back together. And also because since BionX is gone as of earlier this year, parts are going to be harder to find.
As far as replacing any parts go, you'd have to replace them with the original version and type, or the system probably won't work, because BionX is all proprietary and integrated--if anything stops working, the rest of it also doesn't work (in general--it's possible certain problems wouldn't disable the whole system, but many will).
If you dont' replace them with originals, you're left with having to hack the rest of the system to make it work, and that's going to be a process of trial and error, and some of the parts are simply not going to work without some of the other stuff working.
If the wheel uses rim brakes, then it's possible the brakes are rubbing on the rim from a misadustment of hte brakes or the rim. Or if the wheel is offcenter or damaged, it could be rubbing on the frame.
If it's a rear motor, then you could also take the chain off to ensure it's not a stuck freewheel/chain problem.
As far as replacing any parts go, you'd have to replace them with the original version and type, or the system probably won't work, because BionX is all proprietary and integrated--if anything stops working, the rest of it also doesn't work (in general--it's possible certain problems wouldn't disable the whole system, but many will).
If you dont' replace them with originals, you're left with having to hack the rest of the system to make it work, and that's going to be a process of trial and error, and some of the parts are simply not going to work without some of the other stuff working.
If the wheel uses rim brakes, then it's possible the brakes are rubbing on the rim from a misadustment of hte brakes or the rim. Or if the wheel is offcenter or damaged, it could be rubbing on the frame.
If it's a rear motor, then you could also take the chain off to ensure it's not a stuck freewheel/chain problem.
Rony said:
Presumably there is someone out there who has a pile of controller PCB's from the BionX liquidation auction this past summer, and with BionX no longer in business there will surely be lots of used / broken kits being sold or discarded which you could scavenge the motor controller board. That's what you should do if you wanted to keep this as a BionX bike (with the same console and battery etc)
But now that you've got it open like this I would seriously consider liberating the motor from the BionX platform and instead bring out the 3 phase wires and 5 hall wires to an external cable. Then you have the freedom to use literally any 3 phase BLDC ebike motor controller, and you'll also be able to use any model of battery pack too. It'll be much more versatile as an ebike down the road. We've done this with a BionX PL350 that was donated to our shop which also had a broken internal controller. See the phases connected to the yellow, green, and blue motor cable.
It's now a fun and peppy setup running at 1500 watts peak and with Statorade to enable much higher power levels than the original system without the overheating risks.
Chalo
100 TW
Rony said:
International mail forwarding service is a thing.
The maximum speed depends on the motor part # which in turn will help you find the stator part number.
Based on the stator part # you may be able to find out the KV of the motor.
For example stator 1569 can reach a maximum of cca 33-34 km/h with a fully loaded 36V battery and 38-39 km/h with a 48V battery.
The part number is typically engraved or labelled on the outside of the motor.
I have 500HS motor which has the same symptoms as yours so your findings are interesting.
Can you post some pictures on how you were able to remove the controller board from the motor without cutting off he Hall sensor wires? Did you remove the Hall sensor from the motor alltogether?
Based on the stator part # you may be able to find out the KV of the motor.
For example stator 1569 can reach a maximum of cca 33-34 km/h with a fully loaded 36V battery and 38-39 km/h with a 48V battery.
The part number is typically engraved or labelled on the outside of the motor.
I have 500HS motor which has the same symptoms as yours so your findings are interesting.
Can you post some pictures on how you were able to remove the controller board from the motor without cutting off he Hall sensor wires? Did you remove the Hall sensor from the motor alltogether?
