Power switched off for less than a milli second

JamieWlcox

10 mW
Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
24
I have a 48-84 volt Green Time controller
15 Mosfet, 1500 w, 45 Amp Max.
My battery is 48 volt 20 amp hour fully charged at 56.1 combined with a 1000 watt 48 volt front hub gearless motor. The controller is about 5 months old. And the battery will be 1 year old in february.

This will be the third time I have noticed a very quick like a milli second power switch off and back on. Other than that everything runs perfectly.
We are in the cool season right now and nothing is getting warm at all. There are no real bumps or rough terrain the bike is going through when this happens.

I am pretty new to electric bikes, but do not see any signs or symptoms of a faulty BMS or controller. there is also no emergency cutoff switch commonly used at the brake lever for this controller eliminating that Problem. There are no signs of any loose connections. The battery discharges properly and mileage distance as if it were new.

so as I said this is only happened three times and if you added up all the times that happened it may equal 1. 5 seconds. It's also a very sharp transition from on to off as if it were a mosfet.

After racking my brain to figure out what the cause maybe, I came here to ask about the voltage range on the controller and if that could be the culprit. With a range of 48 to 84 volts how and when does the controller set the mode to calibrate and could there be a quick switch in Power?
I forgot to mention this is a gel pack With less likelihood For soldered tabs to vibrate loose, if I remember correctly 2 out of 3 of these times happened With a 55% charge left on the pack.

Thank you for reading
 
Could be just a loose wire.

But sometimes an e bike will shut off briefly because the battery sags below the controller LVC under load.

Batteries hate cold, so that could be the real problem. Soon as the load is off it, the voltage comes back up, and the controller starts to work again, only to sag and cut off again.

This is typical more to the end of the battery discharge of course, in most cases. Your battery bms, if you have one, may be set lower than the controllers lvc. If its the bms, it won't start going again on its own.
 
Loose sense wire or cold solder joint on the BMS could do it, if the BMS shuts off whenever it loses votlage on the sense wire (some of them just ignore that wire compeltely if there's zero voltage on it, which is why some packs die of overcharging or overdischarging a cell group when sense wires break).

Poor contact or broken wire at back of contact pin for any of the follwing could also do it: throttle signal, throttle 5v, keyswitch/ignition wire, etc.
 
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