GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

SlowCo said:
oefianer said:
20s battery is 84volt.
The Controller can 72volt No more šŸ¤£
Click to expand...

Since when does 20S stand for 84V?
20x3.6V=72V
That is exactly what the controller can take NOMINAL!
When talking of controller voltage it is about the nominal voltage. And even the manufacterer quotes(!) 20S in their reply... :roll:
So yes a 72V controller can take a 84V fully charged battery.
Click to expand...

I have a nother information CNC .
I Search morning old Email.
 
Excerpt from my ongoing email exchange regarding the X1:


"Yes, the controller will be suitable to go up to 20s. 36-72V rated. If it is too fast, you can limit the rpm via our app. We are working hard to fine tune the controller performance. Thanks for your waiting!"

Best regards,
Jon
 
So how many of you ordered so far? Just paid mine. Chain version. I hope it is good/better than bafang.
 
So this should fit on a futr beta??I would like the geared version if it will fit.Been wanting a mid drive for a while and this looks like it fits the bill.
 
micah78 said:
So this should fit on a futr beta??I would like the geared version if it will fit.Been wanting a mid drive for a while and this looks like it fits the bill.
Click to expand...

Im also thinking about a frame similar to the alpha or beta, but i dont know exactly howthe motor is mounted. If the motor is moving along with the swingarm/rear shock, it may be a problem if the mounting needs to motor to touch the frame all the time
 
LexHammer said:
Im also thinking about a frame similar to the alpha or beta, but i dont know exactly howthe motor is mounted. If the motor is moving along with the swingarm/rear shock, it may be a problem if the mounting needs to motor to touch the frame all the time
Click to expand...

Why would the motor need to touch the frame? The motor needs to be attached to the bottom bracket and prevented from rotating. So if the bottom bracket is in the swing arm, the motor should be attached to the swing arm (to prevent rotating) as well. (Look in your own thread where I posted pictures)
 
SlowCo said:
LexHammer said:
Im also thinking about a frame similar to the alpha or beta, but i dont know exactly howthe motor is mounted. If the motor is moving along with the swingarm/rear shock, it may be a problem if the mounting needs to motor to touch the frame all the time
Click to expand...

Why would the motor need to touch the frame? The motor needs to be attached to the bottom bracket and prevented from rotating. So if the bottom bracket is in the swing arm, the motor should be attached to the swing arm (to prevent rotating) as well. (Look in your own thread where I posted pictures)
Click to expand...
Thats exactly what i mean, but the swing arm should be rather long so the motor can be attached there. According to the dimensions in the CYCmotors site, on the chain version, the motor is 25 cm long from the BB to the end of the motor. I dont have the frame, but looking at picures where the crank arm is just a little but shorter from where the wheel stars, there will be max 20 cm space, even fewer on frames like Futr Beta. I hope somebody with enduro e-bike frame (like the futr alpha, stealth bomber, vector typhoon) can check what the exact space is.
P.S. Im posting a picture to clarify things. The red one is how it should be on a normal bike, the green one is how you are proposing, if i understood correctly
 

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LexHammer said:
The red one is how it should be on a normal bike, the green one is how you are proposing, if i understood correctly
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No, but it seems possible on that frame.
Why don't you look at the pictures I posted in your own thread? In the second last photo you can see that the builder has ground away a little of the cooling fins on the BBSHD to be able to rotate the motor as far forwards as possible to clear (not attach!) the box section of the frame. The same goes for the CYC Motor X1-Pro. You can insert the bottom bracket of the kit in the swing arm and rotate the motor forwards as far as it goes before hitting the frame with the suspension in maximum position (wheel off the ground, no load). Then you need to fixate the motor kit to the swing arm so it cant rotate around the bottom bracket. That can be done with a strip or custom plate bolted to the swing arm. If there is enough room between the bottom bracket and the rear tire you could indeed also rotate the motor to the rear and fixate to the swing arm.
 
contacted Jon - he indicated that when they ship, they will be done so with an email containing a photo of the kit and an update to the paypal status as shipped.

Still in the final stages of testing.

I encouraged him to take their time and get it right on the first pass :thumb:

Len
 
This looks great! But after reading the thread I still can't tell the difference between the gear and chain version. What's the pros and cons of each?
 
the chain version is longer, hence better ground clearance, and quieter. On the other hand less compact. It may also require less maintenance.
 
This is the first kit that gives you a choice between chain transmission from the motor and gear. I had an experience with GNG2 450W kit, and Ii was very disapointed by the build quality and the design.

For the chain transmission models they have a chain tensioner, a small wheel (derailer type). It was very fragile piece that failed first. With this model it looks a bit more robust, but I have an allergy now to this kind of solutions.

If i were to go for this kit then only in the geared version.
 
n2mb said:
This looks great! But after reading the thread I still can't tell the difference between the gear and chain version. What's the pros and cons of each?
Click to expand...


I'd say that the geared version is well suited for off-road riding and cargo bikes, with harsher on/off power bursts and higher loads. Whereas the chain version would last on a road/trail surface, with lighter and smoother drivetrain loads.
 
ScooterMan101 said:
For those who ordered from the U.S. , what is the quoted shipping cost to the U.S. ? and which one did you use 3-7 day or 2-3 weeks shipping ?
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speed post 3-7 days. 120 clams
 
All right, I'm in. I just ordered one, too. I'm going for an efficient dual sport build with 700x28 tires, 12s18p of GA, and using PAS with ab 700~2000w , and keep my cadence around 90-100 rpm (120 max). This will be my first PAS build on a middrive that I can pedal along with. Plus, I recently rode a customer's 400w ebike in PAS mode (a bbs01 I think) and thought it was really cool to go through the gears like that, without needing a throttle. And as a true ebike enthusiast, I immediately thought of how it would be on steroids, with crazy power up to 40-45mph. This motor came out just in time.
 
hypertoric_amplituhedron said:
All right, I'm in. I just ordered one, too. I'm going for an efficient dual sport build with 700x28 tires, 12s18p of GA, and using PAS with ab 700~2000w , and keep my cadence around 90-100 rpm (120 max). This will be my first PAS build on a middrive that I can pedal along with. Plus, I recently rode a customer's 400w ebike in PAS mode (a bbs01 I think) and thought it was really cool to go through the gears like that, without needing a throttle. And as a true ebike enthusiast, I immediately thought of how it would be on steroids, with crazy power up to 40-45mph. This motor came out just in time.
Click to expand...

I would go for 20s, as much as the controller can handle. It is free power you will be missing from that huge pack.
 
You think that would be a good idea if I'm only using it at 100 rpm at the crank? 120 rpm max? 12s would be perfect for those speeds. Even if I restricted the rpm that low on 20s, wouldn't I be better off going 12s in the long run? The size of the pack is for decent range at 35 mph, a typical cruising speed for me in some places. I was thinking of running 50v 50a for most hot rodding.
 
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