Hummina Shadeeba
1 MW
for sprinting around town up to 40mph with a couple hills.
in my mind it can only be a plus and the bigger the gear ratio the better. the current used to spin the motor at full speed upside down with no load is very small. i feel like i should be maybe choosing the motor kv by the biggest gearing i can fit.
i tried to do some simulations on the grin tool, which is awesome, but it's too much coming up with hypothetical inductances and resistances for custom motors. im sure easy math for many. and then there's other hurdles so im here asking.
tell me where I'm wrong:
ideal is to run a motor at an rpm which will have an equal amount of heat produced from the copper as the iron. that seems a way off distant speed compared to the few amps i see when i run the motor full speed with no load. that is the sum of the iron losses as I understand it so i should be running the motor maybe 3 times faster or something till the iron losses are coming up to something substantal? ideal would be to run the motor within some rpm range based on the copper losses and iron as i said and would depend on how hard the motor is driven still, but if the motor is driven harder especially, with stop and fast go, the bigger gearing and maybe even sinking strangely into having higher iron losses for a change. that would be a good race machine. with giant gearing, no? besides being lightest and getting the best range and efficiency, no?
with a chain or belt drive doing jackshafts are efficient and can do them through these awesome things as the jackshaft.https://sickbikeparts.com/cranks-freewheel-isis-crank-set/
and using with two chainrings or possibly pulleys using this on the cranks. http://sickbikeparts.com/front-freewheel-heavy-duty/
and then can pedal if you need to and have a jackshaft all integrated into one! i just have to see what gearing i can fit.
am i wasting my time trying to gear the crap out of some motor like this with a high kv https://www.altitudehobbies.com/collections/80mm-series/products/leopard-8072-11t-160kv-brushless-airplane-motor
and did you see it in his hand? did you see how cute it was? just look at it. just look at it.
and will this kind of motor with the bell not so supported, will the road bumps kill it? maybe theres another motor more suited you know?!!?
i plan to use all standard bike parts. aluminum 50t sprocket on the back i think i saw is out there. on a hopefully steel splined freehub body in a mountain bike rear hub.
eventually the small teeth cogs become inefficient when so small, Id like to avoid that but i see some tiny motor cogs out there. pulleys i think have to be larger. was hoping to do a pulleys and a belt coming off the motor, to be quieter, but maybe the two chains is way easier and then i can get that big gear ratio.
they make a double and then you can get a 16 or 17 tooth, and thinking maybe welding a pulley to the other side so then can have this instead of the mounting hole plate above which takes a 24 tooth minimum.
was thinking of getting the outer part of the freewheel custom made, white industries said id have to get 100s of course, but im sure i could get a couple cheap in china. make it a lot simpler. or maybe theres another better way to go about doing this?
and weld a slotted motor mount plate to the frame, or get another frame made with some other modifications. cheap steel. low bottom bracket. wide stance, 24" wheels, front suspension.
in my mind it can only be a plus and the bigger the gear ratio the better. the current used to spin the motor at full speed upside down with no load is very small. i feel like i should be maybe choosing the motor kv by the biggest gearing i can fit.
i tried to do some simulations on the grin tool, which is awesome, but it's too much coming up with hypothetical inductances and resistances for custom motors. im sure easy math for many. and then there's other hurdles so im here asking.
tell me where I'm wrong:
ideal is to run a motor at an rpm which will have an equal amount of heat produced from the copper as the iron. that seems a way off distant speed compared to the few amps i see when i run the motor full speed with no load. that is the sum of the iron losses as I understand it so i should be running the motor maybe 3 times faster or something till the iron losses are coming up to something substantal? ideal would be to run the motor within some rpm range based on the copper losses and iron as i said and would depend on how hard the motor is driven still, but if the motor is driven harder especially, with stop and fast go, the bigger gearing and maybe even sinking strangely into having higher iron losses for a change. that would be a good race machine. with giant gearing, no? besides being lightest and getting the best range and efficiency, no?
with a chain or belt drive doing jackshafts are efficient and can do them through these awesome things as the jackshaft.https://sickbikeparts.com/cranks-freewheel-isis-crank-set/
and using with two chainrings or possibly pulleys using this on the cranks. http://sickbikeparts.com/front-freewheel-heavy-duty/
and then can pedal if you need to and have a jackshaft all integrated into one! i just have to see what gearing i can fit.
am i wasting my time trying to gear the crap out of some motor like this with a high kv https://www.altitudehobbies.com/collections/80mm-series/products/leopard-8072-11t-160kv-brushless-airplane-motor
and did you see it in his hand? did you see how cute it was? just look at it. just look at it.
and will this kind of motor with the bell not so supported, will the road bumps kill it? maybe theres another motor more suited you know?!!?
i plan to use all standard bike parts. aluminum 50t sprocket on the back i think i saw is out there. on a hopefully steel splined freehub body in a mountain bike rear hub.
eventually the small teeth cogs become inefficient when so small, Id like to avoid that but i see some tiny motor cogs out there. pulleys i think have to be larger. was hoping to do a pulleys and a belt coming off the motor, to be quieter, but maybe the two chains is way easier and then i can get that big gear ratio.
they make a double and then you can get a 16 or 17 tooth, and thinking maybe welding a pulley to the other side so then can have this instead of the mounting hole plate above which takes a 24 tooth minimum.
was thinking of getting the outer part of the freewheel custom made, white industries said id have to get 100s of course, but im sure i could get a couple cheap in china. make it a lot simpler. or maybe theres another better way to go about doing this?
and weld a slotted motor mount plate to the frame, or get another frame made with some other modifications. cheap steel. low bottom bracket. wide stance, 24" wheels, front suspension.