RC throttle interface build tutorial........

[bandaro]

for mine i simply plugged the bec into one of the 3 servo places, right under where the esc went in.

means the power is being put in "reverse" direction but it is all the same.

[Hardcarve1]

I see it now, I thought their was just one input & output but I can see the multiple plug points.
Thanks

[Wheazel]

This thread is full of awesomeness. Thanks for the tutorial.
Input regarding availability in Europe is appreciated. Only seem to find american sites selling the throttle.

[Brushlessboy16]

Depending on your input voltage

This unit is good for 10s Lipo input
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=10313
Very cheap site and they have many warehouses around the globe

[recumpence]

Hey Guys,

I wanted to post a quick update..........

I spent the morning building a bunch of throttle interfaces. All pending orders are filled and I have two throttles finished in stock.

Sorry for the delay. I had an issue with regulators and a couple other minor details. I am up to speed again, however.

Matt

[deVries]

ok, got my throttle up and running, and i can confirm that for the electrics i got it works. i used the same jumper method in the picture a page or so ago on a turnigy servo tester, and the cheapest hall effect throttle i could find.

am yet to test the final rpm (need a few more parts as i only have the cycle computer to measure speed, then deduce rpm) but the esc has a little led in it that lights up at about 90% of the twist, so i am taking it this led means that the esc is full throttle. otherwise it seems smooth and consistent with the more twist it gets.

for any interested i am just using the cheapie k-force 120 esc for now, see how it holds up for my first build.

Hi Bandaro, just thought I'd check-in to see how the rpm range worked with this setup? You got full range & good control w/throttle you bought? Also, how is that 120 k-force ESC working? Did you add extra caps or mod it?

Thanks!

[HumboldtRc]

Hey Guys,

I wanted to post a quick update..........

I spent the morning building a bunch of throttle interfaces. All pending orders are filled and I have two throttles finished in stock.

Sorry for the delay. I had an issue with regulators and a couple other minor details. I am up to speed again, however.

Matt

What all do your throttles consist of? What features do they have?

I just finished mine, with a 0-5k sliding pot (in a custom cable throttle box) to a Turnigy servo tester to a servo speed regulator then to the esc's.

[Hillhater]

I just finished mine, with a 0-5k sliding pot (in a custom cable throttle box) to a Turnigy servo tester to a servo speed regulator then to the esc's.

what does the .."servo speed regulator" ... do for you ??

[recumpence]

Hey Guys,

I wanted to post a quick update..........

I spent the morning building a bunch of throttle interfaces. All pending orders are filled and I have two throttles finished in stock.

Sorry for the delay. I had an issue with regulators and a couple other minor details. I am up to speed again, however.

Matt

What all do your throttles consist of? What features do they have?

I just finished mine, with a 0-5k sliding pot (in a custom cable throttle box) to a Turnigy servo tester to a servo speed regulator then to the esc's.

It is a simple PWM board with 5v regulator to power it in a water resistant heat shrinked package with a Magura twist grip throttle.

It is a tried and tested design. All units are hand built and bench tested before shipping.

Matt

[LI-ghtcycle]

Wow, good stuff in this thread!

I wanted to get some advice on two parts however.

1) I had some real trouble removing the Servo Tester POT even with my 60W iron (I tired it first with my 30W to avoid getting things too hot) and I am still not 100% sure that I didn't damage the PCB in the process, I have been considering getting a "vacuum bulb" designed to suck away the solder, but for now I have been using the heat and tap method, and also tried by heating all three leads at once on the POT, but I REALLY struggled to get it loose even when I had all the leads just sitting on the PCB. Is there something I am missing? I have to work in a pretty cold (about 55 DEG F) garage, maybe that is part of the problem.

2) I am unclear about weather or not I should be fine using the BEC on my ESC to power the Magura Throttle, or if I will still need to add an extra BEC to power things?

Oh, one more thing, I got to wondering since using the extra POT that I removed from the ST, if I understand correctly using it as a "throttle limiter" restricts total voltage, and say if I wanted to run 8S and regulate down the speed, that although it wouldn't regulate amps, would I not be able to have it regulate the voltage down so that it could at as if I were just running 6S while under higher load (climbing hills) and then turn it back up for a long flat stretch. Am I correct in my understanding?

Thanks!

[adrian_sm]

1) I am a soldering idiot, and couldn't desolder the POT. So I just got got some side cutters and cut each leg on the POT. POT fell off. Job done.

2) ESC BEC should be fine.

3) Give it a go. Put a POT on the 5V rail into the magura throttle POT (you can use the one you clipped off).
One thing to note is that your ESC will have a bit of a harder life, running at partial throttle on 8S, rather than full throttle on 6S, since it will be generating more heat by having to PWM more to reduce voltage at the motor.

Good luck.

- Adrian

[recumpence]

Wow, good stuff in this thread!

I wanted to get some advice on two parts however.

1) I had some real trouble removing the Servo Tester POT even with my 60W iron (I tired it first with my 30W to avoid getting things too hot) and I am still not 100% sure that I didn't damage the PCB in the process, I have been considering getting a "vacuum bulb" designed to suck away the solder, but for now I have been using the heat and tap method, and also tried by heating all three leads at once on the POT, but I REALLY struggled to get it loose even when I had all the leads just sitting on the PCB. Is there something I am missing? I have to work in a pretty cold (about 55 DEG F) garage, maybe that is part of the problem.

2) I am unclear about weather or not I should be fine using the BEC on my ESC to power the Magura Throttle, or if I will still need to add an extra BEC to power things?

Oh, one more thing, I got to wondering since using the extra POT that I removed from the ST, if I understand correctly using it as a "throttle limiter" restricts total voltage, and say if I wanted to run 8S and regulate down the speed, that although it wouldn't regulate amps, would I not be able to have it regulate the voltage down so that it could at as if I were just running 6S while under higher load (climbing hills) and then turn it back up for a long flat stretch. Am I correct in my understanding?

Thanks!

If your ESC has a BEC that is functional at the voltage you are running, you do not need to add one to your throttle. You just need the PWM board (servo tester) and the throttle in place of the POT.

Oh, BTW, I just clip the POT legs too. Trying to desolder them is a pain..........

Matt

[LI-ghtcycle]

Ahhh, that makes sense! Unfortunately my particular brand of ST wouldn't have made it any easier to clip the legs of the POT. Not enough room in there. I'll have to try again with one of the Turngy ST's like Hillhater bought from HK (assuming his one wire mod would work the same for a POT throttle?) if mine is too fried.

[LI-ghtcycle]

IT LIVES!!!!

I guess my solder torture wasn't too bad, I fired it up with the throttle and got a satisfying "turbine whine" from my new motor!

Thanks again everyone!

[LI-ghtcycle]

Ok, now I'm puzzled, I have the ESC and motor wired properly, but the motor is going backwards. Could I have 2 leads reversed in the throttle interface? I guess I could always swap the neg and positive leads from ESC to motor, but I'd rather figure out what is causing this and fix it properly.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[recumpence]

Swapping two motor leads is the proper way to fix it. Motors do not have wires that are polarized (wire color) a certain way. I just ignore motor wire color and do a rotation test.

Matt

[RC_Kiwi]

Hi.'
Am new to all this except the RC part. I did the Turnigy Modification but it does not appear to work. The motor does not respond to throttle input but slowly increases speed over time (i turned it off after 1min). However it works fine when plugged into a receiver etc. Using the turngiy 63-64-230Kv With Turnigy 85A ESC, a cheap hall throttle (I hope) Turnigy Servo Tester and on 22.2V (6S Lipo). Any Ideas? I may just have to buy a pot throttle although it is expensive. In New Zealand so shipping is not small either
Thanks

[HumboldtRc]

cheap hall throttle (I hope) Turnigy Servo Tester and on 22.2V (6S Lipo). Any Ideas?
Thanks

You have a BEC so the servo-tester only gets 5-6 volts? correct? Other wise you fried the tester with the 25volts....

[RC_Kiwi]

Yep It does have a BEC. I'll take a photo of the setup

[RC_Kiwi]

Here.

[HumboldtRc]

Here.

What esc are you using? Double check you mod to the servo-tester, mine worked fine, but i didn't like the throttle resolution. So i made a cable throttle box, with a 0-5k sliding pot, which feels like it has 2-3 times the resolution, then the hall throttle input.

[RC_Kiwi]

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=10331
I cut the pot off then soldered a jumper from the signal input to the middle pot connection? This was as per the mod on page 3. I can take a photo with the lid off it it helps?

[fechter]

You could try measuring the voltage on the signal wire while moving the throttle. Most hall throttles will go from about 0.7v to 4.2v or so (nominal 1-4v range).

You might need to add a resistor from the signal line to ground (10k?) Some hall throttles have this built in and some don't.

If the voltage on the signal line is too high when you turn on the controller, it might go into a high stick safety lockout condition.

[RC_Kiwi]

Hey. Thanks for that advice. I assume check the voltage across the entry/exit of the signal wire? I will check when I get some spare time. Not having much electronics experience, can I ask how you would put a 10K resistor from the signal line to ground? Thanks
Tim

[fechter]

Not having much electronics experience, can I ask how you would put a 10K resistor from the signal line to ground? Thanks
Tim

On the wires coming from the hall throttle, you would connect the resistor between the signal line and the ground line. You could possibly just jam the resistor legs into the back of the connector for a quick test.