Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

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mud2005
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by mud2005 » Jan 14, 2010 7:03 pm

here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.
actually I have 2, I ruined the first one trying to thread a freehub and not realising it was hardened. :oops:
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by flyinmonkie » Jan 14, 2010 10:52 pm

As Mud said, you can't cut threads in a hub body as it is hardened. You can get a hub body with threads though and it will easily hold pedal power. Old school hubs used to hold the sprockets on by threading the last few sprockets on like a freewheel, or freewheel "cassette". Look for old uniglide hubs. You may be able to find a few still being made or you can get them with a full hub. Most hub bodies you can remove from the hub and put on another hub, but some are not interchangeable.

FM

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by TylerDurden » Jan 14, 2010 11:01 pm

IIRC, there are alloy freehubs...
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by MitchJi » Jan 15, 2010 3:02 am

Hi,
gwhy! wrote: It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days :mrgreen:
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?
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If you have a scale for determining the package weight use the Paypal interface to the USPS (if you send a package to someone who paid you something w/Paypal it will even fill in their address:
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by TylerDurden » Jan 15, 2010 3:09 am

MitchJi wrote:
gwhy! wrote:It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days :mrgreen:
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?
The WI should work better, as it is not hardened. It has a replaceable sealed bearing.
Have a Nice Day,

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Jan 15, 2010 11:29 am

flyinmonkie wrote:As Mud said, you can't cut threads in a hub body as it is hardened. You can get a hub body with threads though and it will easily hold pedal power. Old school hubs used to hold the sprockets on by threading the last few sprockets on like a freewheel, or freewheel "cassette". Look for old uniglide hubs. You may be able to find a few still being made or you can get them with a full hub. Most hub bodies you can remove from the hub and put on another hub, but some are not interchangeable.

FM
I will soften it a little so it should'nt be a prob ( but it might be, I got to try it ) . I also what to make the freehub shorter so the dish on the wheel isnt so extrem ( I have a really wide rim )..

edit : typo
Last edited by gwhy! on Jan 15, 2010 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Jan 15, 2010 11:47 am

TylerDurden wrote:
MitchJi wrote:
gwhy! wrote:It worked a treat. Im very happy. These dicta freewheels are pretty good for the price and good enough for the peddle power. Happy days :mrgreen:
Will that work with a WI (threads might be a lot harder)?
The WI should work better, as it is not hardened. It has a replaceable sealed bearing.
The WI freewheels are very good FW but They should be for the price which I am not willing to pay for when there are Cheaper Just as good quality FW available, The chrome Dicta FW are OK for normal peddle power and are around 5-6 UKpounds or a better more robust FW is ACS Claws freewheels as a buget FW Which are also very good for the price around 10-15 UKpounds. I would like to try and use this method of a diy broach to cut through a shoulder of a WI FW But Im not totally sure it will ( the broach ) be up to the job. I have put the test FW that I diy broached onto the free hub and peddled the bike around a bit ( up a few hills putting my full weight onto the peddles ) and it didnt show any signs of giving way, but this was a very short test and I think I would be happier if it were threaded.

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Jan 15, 2010 11:52 am

mud2005 wrote:
here you go Gwhy. I am pretty certain Mud has one of these large dies.
actually I have 2, I ruined the first one trying to thread a freehub and not realising it was hardened. :oops:
Have to given it another go but try softening the hub first..

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Jan 15, 2010 12:25 pm

I have been putting upto 4 kw through this setup ( dicta FW's ) on my prototype ( hack ) bike they are on a screw hub and joined with a BB cup as described earlier in this thread. Both FW are showing no signs of wear and are still quite, I must say though that I have not put many miles on this setup but the miles I have done have be very very hard ones :wink: .
proto_fw.jpg
proto_fw.jpg (165.35 KiB) Viewed 1501 times
I would stick with this arrangment if I didnt want to eventually lock the big sprocket to use regen/plug braking

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by paultrafalgar » Jan 30, 2010 10:54 am

Excuse my lapse of attention. Can someone tell me what's happening to this thread? Last I heard it was the hot topic: Thud, LFP etc were broachin' away like there was no tomorrow... then nothing! Either I've missed summat or I'm being too impatient :D
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by Thud » Jan 30, 2010 11:19 am

Paul,
I inquired w/Luke recently & I know he has broached free wheel sets for at least 2 guys on this board, maybe more, Don't know if they have received the return pakages yet.

I myself, have been shoping around for a wheel or hub to relace to utilize this set up. I have at least 4 builds in mind I would like to do.....2 of them would use this set up.

I am also curious to see some real world testing.....I suspect the weak link in this will be the hub engadgment points, not the WI freewheels.
get some......

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by deecanio » Jan 30, 2010 12:15 pm

Hi Thud/Paul,

i recieved my 16T and sickbikes broached eno's on thursday from cool hand Luke (many thanks Luke and Thud for making this happen) but i've been on nights, will post some pics soon.


Miles,

i did manage to get to the postie this morning after work and yours is on the way - sent today recorded for Monday delivery.

I'll have a play with fitting and get some shots up on Tuesday probably, now if only i had a monster 219 sprocket :wink:

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by j3tch1u » Jan 31, 2010 12:12 pm

paultrafalgar wrote:Excuse my lapse of attention. Can someone tell me what's happening to this thread? Last I heard it was the hot topic: Thud, LFP etc were broachin' away like there was no tomorrow... then nothing! Either I've missed summat or I'm being too impatient :D
the pace on this board is fast and furious. one solution then onto the next. i think lfp is busy baking $2.50/Ah cookies and frying fets:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... 14&t=15093

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by liveforphysics » Jan 31, 2010 12:32 pm

Anyone who wants one can mail them to me, paypal Thud $20, and I will broach it an send it back. :)
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by etard » Feb 01, 2010 8:07 pm

liveforphysics wrote:Anyone who wants one can mail them to me, paypal Thud $20, and I will broach it an send it back. :)
That's a very generous offer Luke, I might have to take you up on that.

Have you guys seen this little doohicky?

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/ ... n+Kit.aspx

I think it could be used for someone who doesn't want two loud ass WI freewheels clickity clacking all the time. It comes with two sizes, maybe one could bolt to a monster sprocket if it were to be ISO Disk bolt pattern. :roll:
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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Feb 06, 2010 1:23 pm

Bugger!!... I knew there was a reason why I dont like freewheel hubs :evil: just broke my first one under electric power, Im gonna have to have a re-think about how to drive the back wheel.

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by Miles » Feb 06, 2010 1:29 pm

Great :P :) Which one? What broke?

Oh..... and commiserations, too.... :(

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Feb 06, 2010 1:47 pm

:lol:
it was a shimano ( it was a cheap one to be fair ). the freewheel mech works both ways now 8) .I havent took it apart yet to see what have happend ( my first guess is that maybe the springs\pawls are shot ) on a plus note it did fail safe just as i was about to launch the bike over a rather large tree stump from a stand still there was a large bang then the bike didnt move :P

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by Miles » Feb 06, 2010 1:54 pm

:mrgreen:

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by deecanio » Feb 06, 2010 1:57 pm

sheeet, i ust ordered my sram :roll:
although in your aplivation gwhy you do ask for all torque from standstill right/

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Feb 06, 2010 2:04 pm

deecanio wrote:sheeet, i ust ordered my sram :roll:
although in your aplivation gwhy you do ask for all torque from standstill right/

D
yes all the torque instantly from a standstill for me. There is enough torque to loop the bike out from underneath me without moving forward. :mrgreen:

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by MitchJi » Feb 06, 2010 2:09 pm

Hi,

What did you do that caused it to break?

Maybe you should try a Phil Wood Chris King or another heavy duty Hub?
We don't see using a different manufacturer of hubs for our machines, other than Chris King, any time in the near future, as these are built to last and a pleasure to ride on. So, if you can afford the initial and substantial cost of these hubs, we would have to say they are worth the money. We have worn out many other hubs within the same time span that these have been running, and these appear to not even be a small fraction of the way through their lifespan.

There are also heavy duty (Chris King) hub sets (or extreme use), and upgradable parts available for Mountain bikes, downhill machines, or free ride types to even further extend the durability. Stainless steel axles, mounts and shells can be installed to bombproof the hubs.

The most useful upgrade we have seen for mountain bikes is a stainless steel rear shell that the cassette slides over and locks on to, as apposed to the standard road bicycle aluminum. With the Shimano XT, XTR and many other brands, the standard aluminum Chris King rear shell gets gnawed by the smaller separate cogs, on the rear axle, that are not part of the unified section of larger cogs, mounted on the alloy carrier, which all together make up a mountain bike cassette.
Best Wishes!

Mitch


The best quality batteries and lowest priced batteries for DIY EV's are tier 1 OEM Quality Cells from salvaged (wrecked) EV packs. Two examples are Chevy Volt and Nissan Leaf packs.

Nissan Leaf Module specs are here
Chevy Volt Pack Info - Salvage 16kwh Packs Under $2k here
The cells are rated conservatively by GM at 7.8C, Yabert's tests of Volt packs on the DiyEv car forum suggest a higher C rate, 15+ C!.

$1,400 plus $360 freight. Still over $1k less than new lead!

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by deecanio » Feb 06, 2010 3:02 pm

thanks gwhy i thought as much, still we'll soon see how the dual drive holds up, hopefully my motor is in one of the boxes Matt recieved, if luke comes up with the monster sprocket im set for rebuild.

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by gwhy! » Feb 06, 2010 3:32 pm

MitchJi wrote:Hi,

What did you do that caused it to break?

Maybe you should try a Phil Wood Chris King or another heavy duty Hub?
We don't see using a different manufacturer of hubs for our machines, other than Chris King, any time in the near future, as these are built to last and a pleasure to ride on. So, if you can afford the initial and substantial cost of these hubs, we would have to say they are worth the money. We have worn out many other hubs within the same time span that these have been running, and these appear to not even be a small fraction of the way through their lifespan.

There are also heavy duty (Chris King) hub sets (or extreme use), and upgradable parts available for Mountain bikes, downhill machines, or free ride types to even further extend the durability. Stainless steel axles, mounts and shells can be installed to bombproof the hubs.

The most useful upgrade we have seen for mountain bikes is a stainless steel rear shell that the cassette slides over and locks on to, as apposed to the standard road bicycle aluminum. With the Shimano XT, XTR and many other brands, the standard aluminum Chris King rear shell gets gnawed by the smaller separate cogs, on the rear axle, that are not part of the unified section of larger cogs, mounted on the alloy carrier, which all together make up a mountain bike cassette.
I launch the bike from a standstill "feetup" to throw the bike up stuff, its not you typical riding style :mrgreen:

I think its because of the hammering effect , if the freewheel isn't engaged when I dump the throttle it can have a lot of travel before it engages so the pawls hammers into the rachet mech and i think this is what has happened. The chris king hubs are very good but very expensive for something that may be ok. I am going to re arrange my drive so that the motor driven sprocket on the wheel is going to be fixed then hope the spokes dont start braking instead :lol: .

Edit:
Hi D Im sure that for normal/off roading most hubs will be be fine ( I am asking alot from pushbike components for the style I ride ).

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Re: Fitting freewheels to splined freehub drivers

Post by AussieJester » Feb 06, 2010 6:50 pm

I would have thought for trials type riding having a freewheel on the back would be worse than fixed anywayz, wouldnt it be more 'motorcycle' like with a bit of resistance from the motor when you throttled off?
Im sure with fixed sprocket you wont have issues anywayz gwhy :-)

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