Cyclone motor stopped working - cable problem?

Joined
Sep 2, 2007
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102
I just remounted my cyclone motor - I had to buy and install a new mounting bracket because the low quality metal that they use for them became bent after 6 months of use.

For one afternoon, the throttle would randomly cut out. I would ride for a while just fine, then it would stop running, then it would start again. I have a meter which shows that the battery voltage is OK. To me, that screams "control problem".

When I turn the throttle, nothing happens. After a few seconds, the light on the throttle turns flashing red. The battery voltage does not move.

I noticed that the stuff (glue? tape?) around where the control cables enter the motor looks like it is falling apart. Is that cable replacable? I'm afraid to take a knife to the area and find out.

I would be rather pissed (understatement of the year) to have to pay $500 for a new motor just because of a poorly made cable.
 
carefully check your cable connection, And check the switch on the throttle. Check the battery Molex conector for a full clicked connection. I also had a problem with the throttle on a little bit on at power up- this stops the motor from working until it goes back to zero.

All of these have caused me a problem, but only once.


I presume you have an internal control motor.


d
 
It turned out that the problem was with the brake lines. For some reason, the button that is pushed when the brake is not being pulled was not getting the constant pressure that it requires.

deardancer3 said:
carefully check your cable connection, And check the switch on the throttle. Check the battery Molex conector for a full clicked connection. I also had a problem with the throttle on a little bit on at power up- this stops the motor from working until it goes back to zero.

All of these have caused me a problem, but only once.


I presume you have an internal control motor.


d
 
That would apply to all motors that use the brake cutoff levers. You can easily test this out by disconnecting both of your brake levers from the controller.

If you're getting power at the cyclone throttle with the blinking red lights, it usually means one of the following:
1) a problem with the brake levers (push buttons, wiring, or controller connection)
2) a bad battery
3) low voltage

I've had the brake lever issue a couple times when I forgot to attach my brake cables since that's what keeps your brake lever pushed up against the motor cutoff button inside the lever. I also ran into it when one of the hinge thingies inside the brake lever got stuck which prevented it from returning to 0 and being snug against that button.

I ran into the battery issue when the BMS on my Ping battery died. The battery measured the proper voltage with a multimeter, but dropped way off into almost nothing when a load was applied....like twisting a throttle :)
 
When a brake cable is disconnected, the spring loading that pulls on the handle is inoperative, making the brake sensor switch think the brakes are engaged, sending a "disable motor" signal to the controller;
when brake cables are disconnected, the motor is disabled.

Sooo, a feature or a problem? (Microsoft says the difference between a feature and a bug is that features are documented)

d
 
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