DMM/Wires/Signal/Resistance .....youv'e lost me?RallySTX wrote:Ona workbench with no load, it should only heat up if there's already internal damage to the bearings, or if there's a problem electrically. Take a DMM and check the wires from the controller for proper signal, and the motor wires for proper resistance. Spin the motor by hand to check for resistance, and slop in the shaft.
I ran my old 500w motor with wires (extensions) taped up for months until I went any distance (about 7 mile without peddling) and burnt it out. The 500w motor still works but not as good as it did when new.RallySTX wrote: In retrospect tape is the last thing I would use to make a connection with on a exposed vehicle harness. Me thinks it was the high resistance in those taped up connections that may have caused the controller or motor to fail. Always use connectors designed above the power levels you will be using.
I would post more often if I had anything to post about but as you see anything electric bike related blows up in my face.RallySTX wrote: Good to hear from you. You should post more often.
I 32 foot monitor!!! where in the world did you get it!!AussieJester wrote:LoL i have a 32' PC Monitor and i cant see mor than the rear wheel of the pic ....
I seen plenty of those schwins with motors on them, sit down and read through some of the stickies you will soon be up to speed...
Welcome to ES...
I think you missed a bit in your reading of my post Amberwolf?amberwolf wrote:Something is heavily loading that motor down; my first guess is the gearing is still too tall, or else something is causing drag on the motor or chain or wheel.
If it is heating up the wires enough to smoke tape on it, that's pretty damned hot! It's pulling way way too much current, and that happens generally because of too high a load at too slow a (motor) speed.
If the motor is allowed to spin really fast while driving the wheel at a slower speed, it's still usually ok, but hwen the motor is dragged down to a slow speed trying to keep the wheel speed up, it causes the mtoro to draw lots of current which heats it up pretty quick, and after a while that can cause unhappy things.
To let the motor spin fast while the wheel spins slow, you usually have to have small gears on the motor and large ones on the wheel. IF that makes the wheel speed too slow even at full throttle, you'd either need higher total voltage, or you'd need a multispeed transmission for the motor-to-wheel. Even just a two-speed can be enough, in such a situation, with the right ratios.
What I mean by sitting on my worktop .... The motor/Controller/throttle etc isn't attached to my bike its all sitting on my kitchen worktop ......and smoking.TopCat wrote: Im now at a loss as to why the motor is smoking and heating up? If its smoking and heating up sitting on my worktop theres no point putting it all back on my bike as it wouldn't last 2 minutes before something melted or went pop.
No, I got the part about it now smoking and heating up even on the "bench", but unless I totally misunderstood, you'd said that the problem started while riding on the bike--so I suspect it's now damaged from overheating (shorted windings, possibly, from insulation burned away while smoking during operation on the bike).TopCat wrote:I think you missed a bit in your reading of my post Amberwolf?
If the controller was able to vary the voltage output and/or the speed of the motor then the controller was working and doing it's job. I'm pretty sure the problem is that your motor is being forced to do too much work at too slow a speed for it, so the current thru it is too high and it overheats.I tested the Controller with my meter. I removed the motor connections and put the meter pins into the connections, I then turned the throttle and got a reading of 39.odd volts. I then reconnected the motor leads and turned the throttle, the motor span up for about 20 seconds then stopped?
TopCat wrote:Would this be a suitable motor for a bike?
Item number: 110805717852
Amberwolf wrote:It could be, if it's speed when loaded at the voltage your bike runs on matches the gearing of your bike.
But it doesn't list it's "kV", which is how many RPMs it spins per volt put across it. It also doesn't list it's RPM at it's rated voltage, either loaded or unloaded, either. So we don't know what speed it spins at, meaning you might have to totally regear your bike for whatever it's actual loaded speed turns out to be when hooked up to your batteries/controller.
If you can get that information from the seller (assuming they're willing to do tests, because it isn't on the motor labelling), it would help to figure out in advance if it will work or not.
You might also check with powerchair repair places around town, and see if any of them have used motors they're about to chuck. Just about every such place I've seen or heard of does that regularly, because the gearboxes or other parts attached to the motors wear out, and they usually come only as a single-unit replacement part from the vendor. So the motor gets scrapped even when it's still good.
That's how I started out powering CrazyBike2, but I had to keep regearing it for different motors I tried, to get the right bike speeds based on the motor's actual loaded output speed.
TopCat wrote:I dont know anything about KV or how RPM's relate to motors or gear ratios or jackshafts etc.
I just bought my 36v 500w motor for my trailer after I saw on a website that a trailer with a motor attached could be made to push your bike along. I decicde to go the push traler route as I didn't want to go hacking up/welding a brand new hybred mountian bike that I had just bought. I just bought a chain and sprocket to match the motor cog and slapped it all together. A few months after I had made the push trailer I saw a Schwinn Spoiler Chopper on ebay and when I saw that big gap in front of the rear wheel I thought that would be an ideal bike to put a motor on.
About that motor.
I sent the guy a question asking if the motor wouldbe suitable for a bike. I then sent you the message asking about it. I have since looked at his feedback and saw that someone had bought one of these motors, so I have asked them if they have tested it etc. Still waiting on a reply from both questions.
On the ebay site is the photo I sent you and this little bit of info about the motor.....
New Old Stock USA Made electric motor by Boehm Mfg. Very good quality made motor with replaceable brushes and heavy painted cast aluminum body. Set up quite well with good length shaft (w/ hole) and front face threaded mounting holes. Applications include: boat trolling motor, fan motor, small vehicle motor and various other "Project type" uses. Operates on 12v - 36vdc.
Overall Length: 6.75in Diameter: 3.5in
Shaft Length: 1.375 in
Shaft diam: .Round, .375 in (bottom half of shaft) and .25in diameter top half which also has a small hole thru shaft for a pin.
Input Voltage: 12vdc to 36vdc
Amps: 5a at 36vdc, 4.4a at 30vdc, 3.5amp at 24vdc and 1.75amp at 12 volt dc.
Weight: approx: 6lb
As to what speed I'd like to cruise around at It would probably be about 30mph. Thats where I run into the problem of not knowing about ratios (even thought ive looked at a good few gear calculators, I cant make head nor tale of them) to know what type/size motor will make a bike with a 24" X 2.10 front wheel and a 20" X 4.25 back wheel travel along nicely?
TopCat wrote: While browsing Ebay I came across this BIG motor...
Mars ME0201013001 Brushless DC motor, 100 cont amps 24-48v DC
Slightly Used (<10 hours) MARS ME0201013001 Brushless DC Motor.
This motors fan cover is missing.
The connector on the wire from the motor has been cut off
Slight score marks to the shaft.
Other than the above it is a happy running bargain! It was removed from an electric go-kart project hence the above issues.
Designed for long life. No brush maintenance. The motor is 90% efficient at voltages between 24 to 48 VDC. Continuous current of 100 amps at 48 VDC. This is a 3-phase, Y-connected Permanent Magnet Syncronous Motor with an axial air gap.
20 turns per phase Line to Line resistance of 0.013 ohms Motor weight of 22 pounds.
I might go for this, im sure this would definetly power me along
I'd need to get some sort of controller to go with it?
When I removed the padded cover I saw what they ment with a a piece added to the top It wasnt welded on as I thought it would have been, it was a triangular section of cromb tube ZIP TIED to the main part of the back rest. Zip tied, well I neverthis back rest has been alterd it has a piece joined to it under the cover theres two spots of white paint on the bk of the cover
it's Harley Mini Tombstone Taillight LED i assume. there are a plenty of them:spoilme wrote:Does anyone know where the Russian guy got that sweet rear light assembly (in the picture on the 1rst page)? It looks like it fits the Spoiler perfectly. I'm looking for a rear lighting solution - must have brake and turn lights.