I took the servo tester apart, see the last image. I removed the potentiometer and inserted a jumper lead from the input signal pin to the potentiometer socket centre pin location. See link and image below.Folken wrote:What are you using to control the ESC?Blanthegenius wrote:OK project completed...for now that is.
Where did that number come from? That would depend on what kind of setup you have and tons of other factors. So by that theory if you have a 150w friction drive it will add zero assist. I don't think so. With a pivoting or sliding mount, once you are past the initial acceleration the roller isn't deforming the tire at all. In fact, it would take a crapload of power to "deform" a tire with friction drive in the first place. I'm running well over 1000 watts with my friction drive (since 2009) and I've never experienced anything like that.Folken wrote:Remember, 80-150W will be lost for deforming the tyre.
The power isn't the same at all. It's the same voltage but much different watt output. My drive also has a top speed of 28-30 mph. What's a Bafang bbs01? Maybe 20? And yup, My drive KILLS a bafang bbs01 up hills. Throw mine in a low gear and pedal with it just like a Bafang and it pulls me up any large hill in this area. If you're ever in Illinois let me know and I'll let you try it for yourself.badboybike wrote:oh come on, if power is the same you can't make such statement...a friction better than a middrive..Honestly..this is mechanic and physics not opinions..EVTodd wrote:Folken wrote:Remember, 80-150W will be lost for deforming the tyre.
As for hill climbing. I tried a 36v Bafang mid drive last year for a bit. My 36v friction drive will hands down embarrass a 36v Bafang any day. Up hill, on flats, whatever.
The hill grade will vary but in general want to use the boost only on very steep short pitches. Right now I occaisonally get down to about 3 mph in spots. I don't need the power for anything but these very slow bits. I'd just like to boost that 3 to 5 mph so I'm going 6 to 8 mph instead of 3.Folken wrote:How steep are your hills, and how heavy are you together with your recumbent?
From my experience, going up 10% hills requires 700W to cycle at 20+kph. Me plus my bike weigh 80kg. With lower power at this kind of slope, the speed drops dramatically. Below 10kph, I believe, the efficiency of the motor drops, and it really starts struggling. That’s why I prefer high power for up hills. The motor will have less chance of overheating at higher speeds, despite higher power feed.
For hills of gentler slope, 500W is enough for me. And 300W is good for flats only. Remember, 80-150W will be lost for deforming the tyre.
Yup, and that's the key to getting good hill climbing ability with a friction drive. I use a 1.25" roller on mine.mclark999 wrote:
If I wanted to use a lower gear ratio by using a small roller instead of the motor, I'd need to mount the motor outboard, right? I'll read through some of the other posts about that type of setup.
It's useless to talk Volts, let's talk Watts instead. My 22V bike is the fastest among ALL electric bikes in my neighborhood, so does it prove that friction drive is the fastest? Of course it doesn't.EVTodd wrote: In fact, here's a friendly offer... I'll put my bike up against any other 36v ebike that's out there. I have a nice hill in my neighborhood were we can compare the two and post the results here. The only drive that would beat it that I can think of would be an rc powered mid drive. Nothing else has enough power at 36 volts.
The point isn't that it's the fastest. My point is that it's the best bang for the buck. Like I always say on here. No one wants to believe it because they've spent so much money on their bike. How much would you have to spend to match what I have if you use a hub motor? A hell of a lot more than I did. The Bafang bbs01 I got last year was more than double what I spent on my total friction drive setup (including battery) and that's before you get a battery for it.Folken wrote:It's useless to talk Volts, let's talk Watts instead. My 22V bike is the fastest among ALL electric bikes in my neighborhood, so does it prove that friction drive is the fastest? Of course it doesn't.EVTodd wrote: In fact, here's a friendly offer... I'll put my bike up against any other 36v ebike that's out there. I have a nice hill in my neighborhood were we can compare the two and post the results here. The only drive that would beat it that I can think of would be an rc powered mid drive. Nothing else has enough power at 36 volts.
That's exactly right! A3 is then used for throttle (Hall or button to 5V), A4 and A5 are I2C bus lines for the LCD.Masure wrote:Thanks for your advices.
I would have directly used the 5v from DLUX ESC .
So if I try to sum up the components I have to use .
- pull down resistor from A3 input to GND
- 2 resistors to make voltage divider to read Batt+ on A2 input.
- between A2 and GND to read battery volage
- between A6 and GND to read hall current sensor
- to power arduino with true 5v from battery