Nuvinci developer kits for cheap

Nuvinci is running a special on the CVT developer kits, $150 for a hub and shift system!

http://www.fallbrooktech.com/docs/kitform.pdf

That is a great deal.ive been wanting one of these.pulls pockets inside out empty .

Wow, groovy. $150 is considerably less than when they were first offered. Thanks for posting it John.

I put in my application already, hopefully some other people can too!

What is CVT stand for? Forgive me, I am no expert and been wanted get a Nuvinci for my new Yuba cargo bike with the mid-drive system.

johnrobholmes said:

Nuvinci is running a special on the CVT developer kits

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constantly variable transimssion, like a variator setup.

I got my application in as well. This is a very reasonable price, for what you get.

-- Gary

Wow, that looks really good! I'm going to double check that this is the N171B first however, because IF it's the previous version, the N171A, it might still be a great deal, however not as trouble free as the N171B.

IIRC, the N171A had some slipping issues, but even if it does, the shifting kit along would be worth it.

Thanks for posting this JRH!!

Oops! I take that back, the older hub is the N170, this is the N171, so it should be the same hub I am using, great deal!

@JRH- Gotcha, sound good deal for my Yuba cargo bike. thanks

So the developer kit only does some kind of pre-programmed auto shifting or can you still shift manually?

John in CR said:

So the developer kit only does some kind of pre-programmed auto shifting or can you still shift manually?

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That is a good question I was kinda wondering that too. If it does, this one one hellova close-out deal, the nearest competitor price wise is $229 for just the standard hub.

I wonder if the link to the developer's kit will show if it does or not.

P.S. looking at the link from Fallbrook Tech: http://www.fallbrooktech.com/09_lev_kit.asp

It shows pictures of a completely different set of controls for the shifting via the electric powered shift kit VS the manual cable version, so I would think it doesn't include the manual shifter.

One other thing to note, here are the power limits the N171 (350) can take:

Torque, Power, and Speed Limits*

Maximum Sustained (Pulse-free) Input Torque 65 Nm (48 lb-ft)
Maximum Instantaneous (Spike) Input Torque 130 Nm (96 lb-ft)
Maximum Sustained Input Power 5 kW (7 hp)**
Maximum Recommended CVP Speed Input: 1000 RPM / Output: 1000 RPM

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Note the Maximum Input RPM is 1000

EXCELLENT find, Mr. Holmes! Will these take 12Ga. spokes w/o drilling?

Application submitted

Stevil_Knevil said:

EXCELLENT find, Mr. Holmes! Will these take 12Ga. spokes w/o drilling?

Application submitted

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Mine has 13/14 double butted spokes (the same set-up was used by Cycle9 on their Cargo bikes) and IIRC 13G is the largest that will fit normally, but unless you plan on putting more power to the wheel than the RPM, Torque or HP max allow, I think you're fine with 13G, but I would recommend the 13/14 Double butted because they handle stresses of extra weight better than the straight spokes since broken spokes are often the product of lack of flexibility of the spokes breaking near the hub flange.

I originally wanted to put 12G spokes on mine, and was dissuaded by both Cycle9 and my wheel builder. Just my $ 0.02 :wink:

LI-ghtcycle said:

Stevil_Knevil said:

EXCELLENT find, Mr. Holmes! Will these take 12Ga. spokes w/o drilling?

Application submitted

Click to expand...

Mine has 13/14 double butted spokes (the same set-up was used by Cycle9 on their Cargo bikes) and IIRC 13G is the largest that will fit normally, but unless you plan on putting more power to the wheel than the RPM, Torque or HP max allow, I think you're fine with 13G, but I would recommend the 13/14 Double butted because they handle stresses of extra weight better than the straight spokes since broken spokes are often the product of lack of flexibility of the spokes breaking near the hub flange.

I originally wanted to put 12G spokes on mine, and was dissuaded by both Cycle9 and my wheel builder. Just my $ 0.02 :wink:

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, LI-ghtcycle

FYI- if you have spokes that are 13ga. @ the bend, and 14ga. for the rest of the length, they are butted spokes..



..great choice for tandems, and ebikes.

The double butted spokes you mentioned (I made the same mistake once )
are thinner in the middle.

I knew what you meant, but just wanted to put a fine point on the butted/double butted spoke topic because it cost me ~50 bux to learn the hard way

Dang...that is a great deal.

I would also suggest 13/14 butted spokes for these. I will be using a 13/15/14 butted spoke.


1000rpm input max means hubmotor input is a good choice

johnrobholmes said:

I would also suggest 13/14 butted spokes for these. I will be using a 13/15/14 butted spoke.


1000rpm input max means hubmotor input is a good choice

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Soooo what you're saying is you see my double and your raising it with your tripple!! :lol: :lol:

You will have to tell me how it works out for ya, if going for the tripple butted 13/15/14 will be even better, I will use that in future builds, I can't imagine the tripples are THAT much more expensive than the doubles?

Certain triples can be expensive. The pain for me is that I can't cut them here of course, they are all customs from Sapim or wherever. Aero spokes would be a good choice too, as light and strong as triple butted.

Stevil_Knevil said:

LI-ghtcycle said:

Stevil_Knevil said:

EXCELLENT find, Mr. Holmes! Will these take 12Ga. spokes w/o drilling?

Application submitted

Click to expand...

Mine has 13/14 double butted spokes (the same set-up was used by Cycle9 on their Cargo bikes) and IIRC 13G is the largest that will fit normally, but unless you plan on putting more power to the wheel than the RPM, Torque or HP max allow, I think you're fine with 13G, but I would recommend the 13/14 Double butted because they handle stresses of extra weight better than the straight spokes since broken spokes are often the product of lack of flexibility of the spokes breaking near the hub flange.

I originally wanted to put 12G spokes on mine, and was dissuaded by both Cycle9 and my wheel builder. Just my $ 0.02 :wink:

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, LI-ghtcycle

FYI- if you have spokes that are 13ga. @ the bend, and 14ga. for the rest of the length, they are butted spokes..

..great choice for tandems, and ebikes.

The double butted spokes you mentioned (I made the same mistake once )
are thinner in the middle.

I knew what you meant, but just wanted to put a fine point on the butted/double butted spoke topic because it cost me ~50 bux to learn the hard way

Click to expand...

Yeah, I never had a spoke break on a hub motor, but I DID have the 12G spokes on my older 2007 vintage Amped Bikes 9 x 7 damage my rim, which might have been more because of neglect than anything else since it was our first experience with an E-Bike (I didn't check the spokes like I was supposed to and one day they were so loose that going down a steep hill produced a nasty wobble!! :lol: :lol: ).

I noticed a year or so later on that rim it had developed hair-line cracks around 20+ spoke holes and about that time I was wanting to use the motor as a mid-drive anyway, so I took it out of the damaged rim.

I have been told since by either JRH or my local wheel builder (I forget which?) that the 12G spokes for a typical E-Bike application are a poor choice since that large of a spoke is hard to get properly tensioned, and to do so would typically not produce a true wheel since neither the NuVinci hub or Sun Rhinolyte rim I am using are designed for that size of spoke.

My builder also used some washers on the hub side to suck up the spokes really tight to the hub as there seemed to be a gap with the recommended single cross by Fallbroook Tech, and even thought I haven't had a full touring load on a bike with this wheel supporting it yet, I typically have 20lbs+ of tools/tubes/etc. in a pack when I commute, and add that to the 30lbs+ of 9 x 7 DD hub motor & batteries, and it was pretty well loaded, and not a single spoke has even needed tightening so far.

If you're in the Portland Oregon area, I highly recommend Sugar Wheel Works (Formerly Epic Wheel Works).

I was going to have JRH's build my wheel, but since I was getting the NuVinci hub from another ES member, and with shipping and all, he suggested I find someone local to build my wheel, and I've been really happy with Jude's work. I'm actually getting a 20inch front drum brake wheel built by her as we speak! (should have it sometime in the next 2 wks! ... would have had it already but Sun sent her a damaged Rynolyte rim!! :wink: )

Shipping parts around for a wheel build is rarely worth the money, it eats into the battery budget pretty quick!

I'm not a fan of 12ga spokes combined with bicycle rims. It just isn't right. 90% of the 12ga I sell is to moped builders, and 90% of the spokes that I sell are 12ga. Ebikers typically purchase 13/14 or 13ga from me.

Hey all, I've got some experience with the NuVinci CVP Developer Kit...this price is a really great deal. Just be sure you know the requirements for the system...a full read-through of the manual is always a good idea so that you know what you're getting into!

http://www.fallbrooktech.com/docs/DevKit_Manual.pdf

Good luck!

RedRider said:

Hey all, I've got some experience with the NuVinci CVP Developer Kit...this price is a really great deal. Just be sure you know the requirements for the system...a full read-through of the manual is always a good idea so that you know what you're getting into!

http://www.fallbrooktech.com/docs/DevKit_Manual.pdf

Good luck!

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Heya RedRider,

Good to know you have experience with one of these kits!

Can you confirm for us if this kit comes with a set of the manual control shifter & cables?

If not, how efficient is the automatic system, do you find it to be worth using?

I personally would think it's more suited to a true E-Bike, and not a pedal assist, but maybe I am wrong, I have no idea how the system senses the correct "gearing".

I would think it would be hard for it to give just the right ratios for when I am adding my pedaling to the mix too.

I'm pretty sure it is just the electronic shift, but that should be easy to adapt to a button control with some hacking.