Re: avanti D8085 - maybe to be renamed D8-93??

Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
This includes R/C motors, botttom bracket, roller and geared drives.
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sn0wchyld   1 MW

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 06 2011 2:00pm

gwhy! wrote:Im gonna pipe in :P , Get a 3.5kw outrunner and a modded 12fet from Lynen and your sorted for upto around 4kw, and with the money you save get more batterys :mrgreen:
do you mean something like this?
http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224349
or
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... 4001224161 :?:

and yea, im thinking ill get a 12fet to start and a CC in the future. the warrenty option is pretty damn good, but I could do with a spare 12fet for my norko/ht bike anyhow, and I want to try my hand at modding one too.

hows your own controller coming allong by the way?

and i think in sorted for batteries for a while yet :P got about 2.2kwh worth, and only using 1kwh...

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by gwhy! » Dec 06 2011 4:28pm

sn0wchyld wrote:
gwhy! wrote:Im gonna pipe in :P , Get a 3.5kw outrunner and a modded 12fet from Lynen and your sorted for upto around 4kw, and with the money you save get more batterys :mrgreen:
do you mean something like this?
http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224349
or
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... 4001224161 :?:

and yea, im thinking ill get a 12fet to start and a CC in the future. the warrenty option is pretty damn good, but I could do with a spare 12fet for my norko/ht bike anyhow, and I want to try my hand at modding one too.

hows your own controller coming allong by the way?

and i think in sorted for batteries for a while yet :P got about 2.2kwh worth, and only using 1kwh...
I have used the turnigy 3250w motors with good success but now these are no longer available this looks like a good alternative . My controller is still work in progress but the real hang up is having the time, I have had 2 major projects on the go but they are now coming to a end so I will have more time to spend on the controller ( to use with the 2 major projects :wink: )

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 14 2011 7:25pm

ok, so im 90% on getting a couple of turnigy motors...

https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK
and
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK
http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224349
is there any difference between the 2nd two to justify the price hike?


smaller one will be for initial use while I re terminate the other in delta (new kv is old * sqrt3 right?) so new kv should be around 100ish, plus be a bit kinder on the controller than the stock 170kv...

ive also found these gearboxes...

http://www.anaheimautomation.com/produc ... t=t&cID=30

Image

specifically the GBPH-090x-NS - 10:1 reduction. with a further ~3 to 1 to the front BB for a total of 30:1, or 133rpm at the crank, with a 40tooth bb - 30t rear this should yeild a top speed in low gear of around 24km/h in a 2.2m circumference wheel... and around 70km/h with a 11t rear (ignoring wind resistance etc)... am I right or is my math off somewhere :?:

the max rpm imput looks like the major drawback of these gearboxes - 4000 max. so with a 50v system that means max kv of aprox 100kv, allowing for 80% loaded speed + some Vdrop should come in just under this. anyone else had dealings with these guys/boxes before? they seem quite good + strong otherwise (~140nm output torque rated, 65db noise). a bit long at 170mm but I think I can deal with that.



Still in two minds on controllers. the CC is very tempting, just pushes the budget a bit...

the other option is still a lyen 12fet, using the 3077 FETS, since this wont be going over 70V. its about half the price of the cc, and should handle the low speed/high load situations better sholdn't it :?: (trail riding/steep hills)

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by gwhy! » Dec 15 2011 3:22am

sn0wchyld wrote:ok, so im 90% on getting a couple of turnigy motors...

https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK
and
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK
http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224349
is there any difference between the 2nd two to justify the price hike?


smaller one will be for initial use while I re terminate the other in delta (new kv is old * sqrt3 right?) so new kv should be around 100ish, plus be a bit kinder on the controller than the stock 170kv...

ive also found these gearboxes...

http://www.anaheimautomation.com/produc ... t=t&cID=30

Image

specifically the GBPH-090x-NS - 10:1 reduction. with a further ~3 to 1 to the front BB for a total of 30:1, or 133rpm at the crank, with a 40tooth bb - 30t rear this should yeild a top speed in low gear of around 24km/h in a 2.2m circumference wheel... and around 70km/h with a 11t rear (ignoring wind resistance etc)... am I right or is my math off somewhere :?:

the max rpm imput looks like the major drawback of these gearboxes - 4000 max. so with a 50v system that means max kv of aprox 100kv, allowing for 80% loaded speed + some Vdrop should come in just under this. anyone else had dealings with these guys/boxes before? they seem quite good + strong otherwise (~140nm output torque rated, 65db noise). a bit long at 170mm but I think I can deal with that.



Still in two minds on controllers. the CC is very tempting, just pushes the budget a bit...

the other option is still a lyen 12fet, using the 3077 FETS, since this wont be going over 70V. its about half the price of the cc, and should handle the low speed/high load situations better sholdn't it :?: (trail riding/steep hills)
I have just ordered one of the cheaper of the 2 smaller motors myself, no I cant see any difference to justify the increased price.
I have used a modded 6fet using 3077 fets with these smaller motors with good success but I have recently went to a 12fet with 3077 fets just to give more head room.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by Powdersummit » Dec 15 2011 3:53am

Those planetary gearboxes look nice. I've been looking for some and prices can be painful. Those seem pretty reasonable. I have found a few that are cheaper in a nema 34 flange mounting in that 90mm size.

http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCGEARBOX.html

The specs are a little lower but unless you are dumping a ton of amps to the motor it should hold up just fine.

Back to your find, you might be able to go with the 60 series gearboxes in a 2 stage if you arn't going to be running a super high amperage. They are rated for a 6000 rpm input but have a rated output of 35 ft-lbs and a max of 70 ft-lbs. You'd have to figure you kt for the motor and find out how many amps you could push to reach the rated output. It may be boarderline but it would save some weight and some money.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 15 2011 9:56am

Powdersummit wrote:Those planetary gearboxes look nice. I've been looking for some and prices can be painful. Those seem pretty reasonable. I have found a few that are cheaper in a nema 34 flange mounting in that 90mm size.

http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCGEARBOX.html

The specs are a little lower but unless you are dumping a ton of amps to the motor it should hold up just fine.

Back to your find, you might be able to go with the 60 series gearboxes in a 2 stage if you arn't going to be running a super high amperage. They are rated for a 6000 rpm input but have a rated output of 35 ft-lbs and a max of 70 ft-lbs. You'd have to figure you kt for the motor and find out how many amps you could push to reach the rated output. It may be boarderline but it would save some weight and some money.
yea I saw those, i think I'd rather overbuild it though, rather than try and limit the amps to have a smaller gearbox, given the fact I want headroom to run stupid power if the mood takes me. It'd probably work well on the smaller turnigy motors, but the big 80-80 and 80100's are capable of 9nm peak, after a 10:1 reduction thats 90nm, more than double the rated for the smaller gearboxes. its a shame there isnt anything in the middle. it goes form ~40nm to 140nm! I found these guys after reading about the nugarts (not sure on spelling) here on ES, and going week at the knees at the price (over 1k)!!
gwhy! wrote:........
I have just ordered one of the cheaper of the 2 smaller motors myself, no I cant see any difference to justify the increased price.
I have used a modded 6fet using 3077 fets with these smaller motors with good success but I have recently went to a 12fet with 3077 fets just to give more head room.
how many amps was the 6fet managing? how much do you recon youll get out of the 12? I only ask 'cause you seem to have a bit of exp. with ebike controllers and pushing their limits!

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by gwhy! » Dec 15 2011 4:01pm

sn0wchyld wrote:
how many amps was the 6fet managing? how much do you recon youll get out of the 12? I only ask 'cause you seem to have a bit of exp. with ebike controllers and pushing their limits!
with the smaller motors I have been pushing around 3.5kw (75A limit) through the modded 6fet without any problems the 12fet is set for the same but do actually get warmer than the 6fet but I guestimate that the 12fet will do 5-6kw (120A'ish ) as long as it do not get to hot.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 15 2011 5:29pm

gwhy! wrote:
sn0wchyld wrote:
how many amps was the 6fet managing? how much do you recon youll get out of the 12? I only ask 'cause you seem to have a bit of exp. with ebike controllers and pushing their limits!
with the smaller motors I have been pushing around 3.5kw (75A limit) through the modded 6fet without any problems the 12fet is set for the same but do actually get warmer than the 6fet but I guestimate that the 12fet will do 5-6kw (120A'ish ) as long as it do not get to hot.
how'd you find fitting halls in these motors? is it a fairly simple process? im still seesawing between the CC and a 12fet.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by gwhy! » Dec 15 2011 6:04pm

The halls have to be fitted externally ( i dont know anyone who has put them inside the motor ) this is a pretty easy thing to do and there is a thread on here that give a few ways of doing it. I have another thread running http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=33916 about a cheap 12fet controller that I bought for something to experiment with and I found that it will run these motors sensorless so this may be a good option for you as it could be upgraded for the power but they do look like if they have a max rpm limit when used in sensorless mode but when you get the halls sorted this will enable it to run faster.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 17 2011 2:19am

the 6fet your using, is it a sensor-less one from lyen? he has some sensor-less ones, but im not sure if they'll like working with these motors... be great if they did though, 99 bucks for a 3kw controller would be a great starting point I think...
gwhy! wrote:...................

I have just ordered one of the cheaper of the 2 smaller motors myself, no I cant see any difference to justify the increased price.
I have used a modded 6fet using 3077 fets with these smaller motors with good success but I have recently went to a 12fet with 3077 fets just to give more head room.



so assuming the sensorless 6fet will work well enough to start with, the shopping list will be as follows...

lyen 6fet sensorless 3077 controller, likely with some forced cooling to push it to 3kw.

1 of each of these
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK
Ill get the 130kv version if it comes into stock by the time I order.

RCCA, since i'll probably end up using a CC160 when I switch to the larger motor...

10s lipo 15-20 ah, using some of my first 5s packs I bought 9 months ago when I ran 20s on my HT35.

a 10:1 reduction drive from AA. lol. good name...
http://www.anaheimautomation.com/produc ... t=t&cID=30

a slipper clutch and 1:1 (1:1/2 if he can do it) pully from recumpance. I wish I could buy more of him to thank him for his time (via pm) but at this stage a CC is a bit much if the 6 fet can manage to start with...

frewheeling BB crank ~35t from sickbikeparts - anyone care to make a reccomenation in this area :?:
-also a 11t or similar free-wheel for the box-bb

mounting hardware for 'box, motor controller and bats - locally sourced and fabricated by yours truly, with many thanks to uni for letting me use their equipment and expertise.

anything im missing :?: let me know, even if it seems obvious as this is my first RC build and im bound to be forgetting something...
also, do people think 10g wire and 4mm bullets will handle 80-100a peaks? or should I upgrade to 6mm/8g? if i ride this anything like my current bike the cont. amps will be ~25A.

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AussieJester   100 GW

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by AussieJester » Dec 17 2011 4:38am

gwhy! wrote:
sn0wchyld wrote:
I guestimate that the 12fet will do 5-6kw (120A'ish ) as long as it do not get to hot.
I dunno GWhy :( i popped my 3077Fet equpped 12fet Infineon
several times at these power levels...this was running 50v setup however.
Seems running higher voltage slightly lower current they handle it.

KiM

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by gwhy! » Dec 17 2011 5:40am

AussieJester wrote:
gwhy! wrote:
sn0wchyld wrote:
I guestimate that the 12fet will do 5-6kw (120A'ish ) as long as it do not get to hot.
I dunno GWhy :( i popped my 3077Fet equpped 12fet Infineon
several times at these power levels...this was running 50v setup however.
Seems running higher voltage slightly lower current they handle it.

KiM
Hi KiM,
I am talking about the smaller motors, I know the large motors do have a problem ( but I still as yet not played with the larger motors with these controllers ) I did have a 12fet running at 80A with a large unmoddified motor ( on my scoot conversion) and this was no problems at all. All my setups are run on 50v.
sn0wchyld wrote:the 6fet your using, is it a sensor-less one from lyen? he has some sensor-less ones, but im not sure if they'll like working with these motors... be great if they did though, 99 bucks for a 3kw controller would be a great starting point I think...
I am using a sensored controller and have external halls fitted to the motor, I think the sensorless controllers from lyen may have a rpm limit ( there is a thread somewhere that goes into this ).

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sn0wchyld   1 MW

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 18 2011 2:42am

just a friendly bump to see if I can get any more advice, specifically to the questions/parts list in my previous post http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 30#p504975 before I start placing orders early this week. Ive got the better part of 2 full months off before uni starts up again, and Ive got the (probably overly ambitious) goal of getting this bike running before then! cheers all.

sc







edit
parts on the list so far from sickbikeparts
1x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 for motor side
1x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 for pedal side
2x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 self explanatory
2x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 self explanatory
1x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 cause I like wearing genes.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by gwhy! » Dec 18 2011 5:23am

sn0wchyld wrote:just a friendly bump to see if I can get any more advice, specifically to the questions/parts list in my previous post http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 30#p504975 before I start placing orders early this week. Ive got the better part of 2 full months off before uni starts up again, and Ive got the (probably overly ambitious) goal of getting this bike running before then! cheers all.

sc







edit
parts on the list so far from sickbikeparts
1x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 for motor side
1x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 for pedal side
2x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 self explanatory
2x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 self explanatory
1x http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/pr ... oen57fmic5 cause I like wearing genes.
yes its all good so far :D

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by thepronghorn » Dec 18 2011 5:35pm

I don't think you want a lyen sensorless controller. It looks like they will only go to about 2200 rpm on turnigy/leaderhobby motors with 14 poles (as can be seen below the red 'quality available list' in his first post in the thread below).
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... sensorless

Lyen does have 6fet sensored controllers that will go much faster, but they do require hall sensors or burtie's optical sensors.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... ni+monster

I believe the sensorless that gwhy! was talking about are from here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/VirtualVillage ... =241440152
as can be seen in his thread here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =2&t=33916

Other options could be the controllers from bobhangxu as explored on this blog here:
http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=1688
or the controllers from digital2brother
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-350W-brushl ... 629wt_1037)
explored in this thread here:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... al2brother

In addition, you might also want to take a look at the P80 gearboxes made by banebots
http://banebots.com/c/PLANETARY
They claim up to 85 ft-lbs output and are commonly run up to and exceeding 5K rpm's. They are also much cheaper than the Anaheim Automation gearboxes but probably rated for less continuous use. I would not say they are of better quality, but they sure are not low quality at all. Steel gears everywhere and big thick pins/bearings meant to move 120lb FIRST robots. The smaller but related P60 series is commonly used in 12lb combat robots capable of much higher shock loading than a bike will see, so they are definitely robust. You would need a custom pinion or an adapter to turn your 10mm shaft into a 1/2" keyed shaft.

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by Powdersummit » Dec 18 2011 7:51pm

ThePronghorn, nice Find on the BaneBots Planetary Gearbox. I didn't think I could find that much reduction for that kind of price. Awsome!!!

Carl


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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by bandaro » Dec 18 2011 9:55pm

looking good dude, to get it built over the holidays will mean you can't make any changes, as shipping in the new parts will take you over time...

Couple of things though, firstly regarding the motor, were you going to go the 6374-170 or the 80100-130? I am pretty sure from what I've heard that the 80100 will be too powerfull for the gear freewheel cluster, when it is in higher gears it will have to much tourque pulling it around, and break the freewheel mechanism, assuming the 6kw does not. So the 6374 would be a better solution, the one you linked from leader I can confirm has the same dimensions to the hobbyking one, and bolt mounting partern if that is any help.

As for the reduction box, I have not found one cheap enough with a good enough review to bother trying, so I will be interested to hear how it goes.

I have designed a couple of very similar build (basically the same everything) and a major problem for my bike, being a dj with a small triangle, is fitting it all in. From my chain gearbox research Ihave done for my own build, I found the #25 chain to be much better than the bike chain, a 55t sprocket for 25 chainis about the same size as a 28t bike chain sprocket, so you can get the reduction in a much more compact form, witht he chain effectively curving less, reducing noise. Another problem I had was the shape of the frame meant the bb sprockets would sit too far out to align to the rear cluster properly unless I used a 55/28 size sprocket. Obviously the 25 chain gave me more reduction, so I could do it in 3 stages instead of 4, making it quieter, more compact and more efficient.

I would love to take a squizz at your designs if I could, see how you have done it and if there are any problems I can see. If you want to pm me them/upload them that would be awesome.


So lastly, being both in OZ, if you are getting any parts from a seller that has a 13t sprocket and a 15t freewheeling sprocket in stock, I would be very interested in hijacking your order, as everywhere I found either doesn't have them or wont send just those 2 items here, would be happy to pay prior to ordering if you need. After I get those 2 gears, I am finished with my latest version and can begin testing, the gearbox and axles are already made.

What degree are you doing at uni?

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by Powdersummit » Dec 19 2011 12:51am

AJ, I think I found the thread where Timma tried the Bane Bot reduction. It seems like a lot of his text is missing. From what I can gather he was running a fair amount of power through the gearbox and possibly using a HV160 which could tear darn near anything apart. To keep on topic I would say that for Snowchyld's build the bane bot reduction may not be tough enough. My best guess if you were to limit the amps it could hold up which isn't what he is looking for. Looking at the website there seems to be a lot of replacement parts. Not so much true with most of the manufactures or least at a reasonable cost. Rebuilding with higher quality bearings or machine some double row bearing mounts, torch hardening the gears, and run a high quality gear oil may work. I may have to order myself one after the first of the year, work out the numbers and see if I can come up with something.

Sorry to Hijack your thread Snowchyld. I would just like to see a cheaper quality planetary gear box for the ebike group that can hold up to 3kw+ hits of power. I can't wait to see how your project will turn out. You've been putting a lot of time and research into your build, should be top notch.

Carl

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by AussieJester » Dec 19 2011 1:34am

Powdersummit wrote:AJ, I think I found the thread where Timma tried the Bane Bot reduction. It seems like a lot of his text is missing. From what I can gather he was running a fair amount of power through the gearbox and possibly using a HV160 which could tear darn near anything apart.
Negative on the HV160 he was using a little Astro 3215 IIRC...the missing etxt
is a result of the forum take over sometime back alot of threads were deleted in protest and some still not restored
I can confirm with Paul if you like. i speak to him on the phone few times a week and see him most weekends...

KiM

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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by nikos7 » Dec 19 2011 1:46am

I would definitely not recommend the Bane Bots planetary. I have broken several sun and planet gears on the P80 9:1, 12:1 and 16:1, even under 60A @48V on an Astro 3220 7t. I called them about it (1 year ago) and they said that their gears were powdered metal from China. Unless they have improved their gears, I would not get them. I prefer heat-treated hobbed and ground gears from steel (1045 or 4140).
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Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 19 2011 2:42am

warning - massive f'ing post, sorry....
thepronghorn wrote:I don't think you want a lyen sensorless controller. ...

In addition, you might also want to take a look at the P80 gearboxes made by banebots.....

......

Sorry to Hijack your thread Snowchyld (later post)......
no probs with that mate, so long as it A, resembles the topic B, talks about beer or C talks about attractive women or D all of the above im happy.

the controller I have been talking with lyen about is a non-infinion, and he has a few vids of it pushing the larger 170kv motors in a friction drive up to 60v, so given that it should be ok, though he doesn't know the max switching htz. Worst case scenario it can become a lower powered backup for the HT (though itll be pretty uninspiring at <70V) I could (just) afford a CC, and I'm getting a quote from matt for one, but since i'm starting with a smaller RC motor for ~3kw anyway the 6fet will hopefully work out.

Great find on the cheap boxes, though given others experience I think I'd rather spend the $$ and get something that is rated for atleast the torque ill be running. at ~150 delivered, i could be tempted in the future to try one in a low power chain puller <2kw.

right now im shifting between the GBPH-060x-NP:
Image

and the GBPH-090x-NS:
Image

price is about the same, but the top one has 25% higher imput speed and a smaller profile, at the sacrifice of torque handeling (30% of the second one). I know the larger 80-100's will put out peaks of about 9nm at about 100a, but does anyone know the torque of hte smaller motors like these? if its around 4nm or so then the smaller one should be fine, given its 'peak' torque is about 130nm, and the continual is about 45.
Image
https://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp ... ocation=HK

I'd prefer to go with the smaller of the two gearboxes, 120mm is far easyer to fit than 170 (though about 50mm is axle in each case), but it'll limit me to about 3kw im guessing. If I end up using the larger can motors ill be needing to upgrade the gearbox too.








bandaro wrote:looking good dude, to get it built over the holidays will mean you can't make any changes, as shipping in the new parts will take you over time...

Couple of things though, firstly regarding the motor, were you going to go the 6374-170 or the 80100-130? .....
............
I would love to take a squizz at your designs if I could, see how you have done it and if there are any problems I can see. If you want to pm me them/upload them that would be awesome.


So lastly, being both in OZ, if you are getting any parts from a seller that has a 13t sprocket and a 15t freewheeling sprocket in stock............

What degree are you doing at uni?
Yea im guessing that Ill miss the start of uni deadline by a country mile, given that it could take till the end of jan to gather all the parts just to start! but hey, you gotta set some sorta goal, and I got nothin but free time till then :twisted:

Motor wise, im starting with the one linked above, running at 40v and ~60-70a. eventually ill upgrade to a 80100 or the 170kv version of the same motor (is that the 6374?) EDIT i think I just figured what the #'s mean, ie can diameter x can length, in which case the 2nd motor will be the 8091.

Does anyone know of any simple cad software to quickly drum up some sketches :?: ive used solid works a little, but I lack the skill yet to build anything complex. might have to take a few days to train myself once everything is 'in the air'

free-wheel wise at this stage, im waiting to hear back from matt re buying his slipper clutch + a 1:1.3 pully (or near to) as well. Hopefully he has something like that available. if not ill have to find either a chain freewheel or a belt one. I'd much rather go with belt, but given the low tolerances i may end up using a chain to start with. For the BB ill be using prob. a white industries for one or both the motor and the pedal cranks. Ill let you know, ill be ordering prob. late on tues/wed.

Studying Electrical and sustainable engineering ad Adelaide uni. Just finished my first year. enjoying it so far, apart from the work load (50+hour weeks :cry: )



Once I hear back from matt ill start placing orders. with luck they'll start shipping before crissy. my guess is ill end up being held up waiting for the gearbox, ive sent 'em a email but if I dont hear back soon ill call em, though chances are they're on Christmas break already.


nikos7 wrote:I would definitely not recommend the Bane Bots planetary......

powdered metal eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww! hehe. thanks for the tip. I think ill try out the higher rated stuff from AA.

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sn0wchyld   1 MW

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Joined: Mar 18 2011 8:27pm
Location: South Aus.

Re: So I want to start an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Dec 20 2011 6:37am

ok, so time to change this thread from 'I want to...' to 'I am....'



MOTORS
Order placed with leaders hoby for a 6470 170kv, a 8090 170kv and a 80100 130kv. also ordered some 6mm bullets since I had 150g to spare.


DRIVE-TERRAIN
I feel im missing something from my sickbikeparts order though,
1 x Chain Guard for 44 and 48 Tooth Chainring
2 x Chainring - Freewheel - 36 Tooth
1 x Chainring - Freewheel - 44 Tooth
3 x Chainring Hardware
1 x Chainring - Freewheel - 48 Tooth w/chain guard
2 x Front Freewheel - Heavy Duty
2 x Sprocket - 11 Tooth for Shift Kit
1 x Sprocket - 17 Tooth (standard left side) for Shift Kit
1 x Chain Breaker
1 x HD Freewheel Removal Tool for HD freewheel

Im ordering a couple of extra sprokets/chanrings incase I cant get the gearbox in a resonable timframe (still havent heard back from 'em... ) is there a better place to order this kind of stuff from? also, does sick bike parts have good enough chains for this stuff?

Do I need a new wider BB axle? sorry I dont know the propper term for this bit of kit, but if im putting 2 free-wheels on the front BB then wont I need a wider axle?

The HD freewheel is kinda pricy but the reviews on the ceaper one are pretty crap on the whole, so for the sake of $100 i'd rather get the better one...

CONTROLLER
I'm still wating too on a reply from matt (recumpance) on a clutch + possibly a cc160, does anyone know if he's away or something? the message went 'out' of my outbox but I haven't heard back. If I dont hear soon ill just go with the lyen controller (witch i'll probably do to start with anyway).

GEARBOX
still waiting to hear back re this. ill try calling soon...

CA
will place order soon on a RCCA, with the presumption ill be using the CC160 in the long run... if not I dont loose much in the way of features.


Im house sitting for a friend from the 24th-29th so ill teach myself how to use solid works during that time and try and drum up some basic sketches for you guys to peek at.
I think thats it for now...

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bandaro   10 kW

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Location: Canberra, Australia

Re: So I have started an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by bandaro » Jan 07 2012 8:02pm

So any updates? If you still needed some stuff from superkids I managed to get a reply, they can't ship via usps only ups, so its 80 bucks for one pound apparently. If you get anything from a place selling #25 sprockets I'm still interested.

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sn0wchyld   1 MW

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Joined: Mar 18 2011 8:27pm
Location: South Aus.

Re: So I have started an RC... er, 'mid drive' build...

Post by sn0wchyld » Jan 08 2012 12:11am

bandaro wrote:So any updates? If you still needed some stuff from superkids I managed to get a reply, they can't ship via usps only ups, so its 80 bucks for one pound apparently. If you get anything from a place selling #25 sprockets I'm still interested.

yea still collecting parts. Ill be sorting out my order from sikbikeparts in the next day or so, so if you want me to add anything to my order let me know...

ive got a grand total of 5 electric motors now, a second (dead) HT, a 6374, 8085 and a 80100. They (learershobby) must have gotten stock of the 80100's just after I ordered, I thought they'd be out of stock for a while so I ordered the 8085 'in the mean time', but it would have been better to have two 80100's to play with... :twisted: ah well....

Bought one of the wee little 6fets 3170's from lyen, its only going to drive the 6374 while I sort out the rest of the bike, before I get a CC for the 80100.

The original gearbox I was planning on getting has just gone out of stock, and none are available for the next 4-6 weeks!! so much for getting it running by march! as such the larger gearboxes I linked to earlier might be back on the table, with a small stage of reduction before it to bring imput rpm's below the 4000 max. 170mm long is going to be a chalenge to fit though...

other than that, bugger all movement on this one. once I know what gearbox ill be using ill start putting the mounts together, but there's not much point till I know if the 'box is going to be 130mm or 170mm. Makes me think that using a 2 or 3 stage reduction could be more viable in the short term...

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