It's difficult to keep everything tight and square at the same time while the bolts are tightened. I cut 2 hardwood wedges (about 30 degrees or so) and used one each side between ends of the motor casing and the metal housing for the jack shaft bearings. Don't tap them in too tight just enough to keep the belt tensioned.t0me wrote:I installed Lightningrod's plates today. To install the upper set I took off the large belt sprocket rather than the freewheel from the jack shaft. The belt sprocket came off easily.
How are people adjusting the belt tension once the jack shaft freewheel and chain are back on? I can only get to one of the adjuster bolts (and I've just stripped the thread on that!)?
Thats a really impressive work on the pulleys.Ebikeman wrote:I fitted Lightningrod’s adjustable side sheet kit; and I managed to cast the large pulley 172mm diameter 107T. The tooth profile is good but there is some runout of the large pulley sleeved on the original 80T aluminium pulley. I decided that I will add some bearings on either side of the belt to engage a couple more teeth on the small 18T pulley. I have gone up from the 15mm to a 20mm belt width on a HTD 580-5M-20 belt.
The casting made with a slow cure resin and aluminium powder filler; this has added about 300g to the weight of the 80T pulley.
I made some measurements of the unloaded motor and pulley compared to the original pulley setup
80/14T with very tight tensioner was 187W.
The new setup 107/18T no tensioner just adjusted with the Lighteningrod’s side sheets is now 67W.
That’s an amazing 120W improvement in power saving!
Ebikeman wrote:Hi redstone
That spacer will not fit without cutting it down when you have the Lighteningrod side plates. It fits in between the side plates and the support strap for the motor onto the bike downtube.
I think it really depends on what your definition of moderate powerlevels is as well as how you intend to ride.arcticfly wrote:Hi!
Just wondering if there is a list of must do mods to get this kit to work ar moderate powerlevels? I have been reading and reading this huge post and cannot make up my mind if it is worth taking the risk buying this kit because of all the problems. Say If I want to run it on 50V A123 up steep rough mountain tracks. What is minimum mods to get this kit to run somewhat reliably? If the Cyclone had not been so bloody noisy, that would be the obvious choise, now I'm leaning on a mid drive hub conversion, but the GNG looks much better... Can this kit be a reliable partner in the Norweginan mountains?
2002 Devinci Magma - 117v GNGChalo wrote:Hydraulic [suspension] is just vanity and moto-fetishism at anything in the range of attainable bicycle speeds.
Go bigger on the inner chainring. If the 38T and 44T stock chainrings can have their locations swapped...I would put the 44T on the inner position, and the 38T on the outer. Then, I would find the biggest chainring I could fit onto the frame, and epoxy/bolt it to the side of the 38T (52T-60T?).A smaller inner chainring on the bottom bracket would help relieve this a bit and give me a higher top speed, right?
remove the yellow rectangular connector with the 3 wires in it, i had that problem ant it was the connector,, no problem sinceintellibikes wrote:I bought one used and set it up and was pleased with the speed and torque, but system shut down after coming to a stop on a 1/2 mile slight incline. Checked and giggled wiring seemed to get a twitch out of the motor applying the throttle, but only after rotating the motor pulley...but no motor spin. Any ideas?
I don't think that "yellow" connector itself should be a problem since it just provides protection for solidly bolting together the phase wires between the controller and motor. Having said that it's certainly possible that one or more of the spade connectors were poorly attached to the wires, in which case if another connector was used the problem would probably go away.remove the yellow rectangular connector with the 3 wires in it, i had that problem ant it was the connector,, no problem since
This is great info. What about HVC? I'm trying to modify the controller to make it handle 18S, 72v. Changing FET's and the three 470uF capacitors. Maybe something more could be considered before applying the first test 72v?full-throttle wrote:My controller is slightly different to denisesewa's but the technique is the sameThe two red circles show R1 and R2. Ignore the unpopulated footprint in the top area of R1 for a moment, I'll get to that later.
The important bit is R1 is closest to the red wire and R2 is closest to GND.
LVC is simply a voltage divider that converts battery voltage into something the controller can read.
In this case the voltage divider is Vlvc = Vbatt x R2 / ( R1 + R2 )
Once this voltage drops to 3V the controller shuts down. Rewriting the equation above LVC will trip when Vbatt = 3 x ( R1 + R2 ) / R2
Notice R1 reads 1502 and R2 reads 1201. To get resistance simply write down the first 3 digits followed by zeroes equal to the last digit. Eq R1 is 150 0 0 = 15kOhm and R2 = 1.2kOhm
Substituting real values into the second equation LVC vill trip when Vbatt = 3 x (15+1.2)/1.2 = 40.5V
So to lower LVC to use with 36V one can either decrease R1 or increase R2.
To raise LVC do the opposite.
Now the tricky bit - to change LVC for a 36V pack simply solder an 0805 39kOhm resistor in the unpopulated footprint in R1 circle. That's it.
To raise LVC to 45V solder a 10kOhm 0805 resistor on top of R2.
What ever happened to GNG's chain drive retrofit?flyingdutchman wrote:I've contacted GNG and they supposedly have a chain drive retrofit they are working on....he admitted the belt was to weak. He sent a picture from the website of some guy with sprockets bolted onto the belt drive....looks pretty cheesy.
There's no HVC AFAIK.christerljung wrote:This is great info. What about HVC? I'm trying to modify the controller to make it handle 18S, 72v. Changing FET's and the three 470uF capacitors. Maybe something more could be considered before applying the first test 72v?