You have to realize that it is the tension/force in the material that makes something collapse. At the shaft, tension in twist direction is very high, since the diameter is so small <12mm. The torque is high ~100Nm. Force=2*Torque/diameter so there is a lot of force/tension!evb wrote:I don't realize, the axle is twisted, but plastic gears are ok? Don't you think it strange?crossbreak wrote:i got a twist shaft.. 120A phase current
Thanks, I bought several Bafang BPMII 10T from bmsbattery, all motors have same gears.crossbreak wrote: Edit: you can buy the blue gears as spare part from bafang. For example here http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/634 ... motor.html
you forgot in a hub you have also the other side of the axle which is not hollow so it can hold much more torque^^crossbreak wrote:guess this was just bad luck. Of course the hollow shaft of the MAC suffers from less material..still it can take the torque+bike /~500N) weight in a hub so why should it not take chain force (~2500N) and the same torque in a middrive?
crossbreak wrote:you mean for the chain to the wheels? with my design the Jackshaft is already used for tensioning the pedal chain (vary distance between BB and Jackshaft). So you'd need a tensioner at the wheel (vary distance between wheel and Jackshaft). If you would combine a normal idler tensioner with my design, you could use the Jackshaft mount for tensioning the wheel drive chain. But that will only work for hardtails.
Tensioning both chains by varying distance may sound tricky..but it's not. Simply tension the short chain first and then the long one to the wheel. Never tried that but it will work for sure. Simply use a frame that was made for IGH+single speed that has a tensioner dropout. So you wont need any idler at all. Will look very clean
I ordered some GT controllers and said Leo to limit phase current 65A, he said "ok" but I realized, Leo can say "ok", but don't do itcrossbreak wrote:as said you need to limit phase current. we have no possibility of porgramming Greentime controllers ATM.
I think about Kelly, but it's double price. I look to KBS72051Xcrossbreak wrote:Go for a Kelly. they are expensive but worth the price IMO.
surecrossbreak wrote:Guess it must have been fun though
That's a good plan. It would be nice to extend the 4-spline that takes the clutch to the adapter so it can take a lot more torque. Still, your effort may be worthless in the end if you realize that efficiency is horrible at high torque levels...or maybe the gears just stripe in the end.. but i think as long as they stay cool they could even break the improved shaftI also plan try to make a new axis integral with the adapter.
One last thing: i just noticed you did not use counter sunk screws here. That is a big fault. you want the sprocket as close to the motor as possible to minimize bending load. Just by doing this you can push it somewhat furtherevb wrote:
I don't agree. My adaper fit maximum near to motor (less 1mm from sprocket to mount ), because caps of bolts planted inside the hole.crossbreak wrote:evb wrote: One last thing: i just noticed you did not use counter sunk screws here. That is a big fault. you want the sprocket as close to the motor as possible to minimize bending load. Just by doing this you can push it somewhat further
yes, it's price for this waycrossbreak wrote:A slight drawback is that you will now need a freewheel remover tool for disassembly.
sure, it's spacer for my config - 9mm, I will make 5mm and 3mm spacers for customizing.crossbreak wrote: Suggestion: Instead of using one thick spacer between sprocket and freewheel, you could use multiple, thinner ones so you can play/adjust chain line.
There is Henkel Loctite 638. It's very strong shaft-hub connection compound.crossbreak wrote: How is torque transferred from the shaft to the adapter? I can't see a spline or key?
Sure. The axle consists of two parts connected by thread.crossbreak wrote:So you cant disassemble it and more? What do you do if you want a New planetry assembly