custom frame ideas

Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
265
Location
Falun, Sweden
customFrame2.jpg
I'm getting closer on the first custombuilt frame.
It is meant for garden-fun and urban-trailsriding.

It needs to have:

Simple light frame.
Lipo onboard power
Ultra slow riding (sensored motor)

It does not need to have:

Long suspensiontravel
High top-speed
Long range

Alu or steel?
Steel means i can put it together with simple welding. But it will be a Heavy thing.
Alu means i need to do alot of machining and outsource the welding.

inspiration:
 
go with steel, It is not that much heavier than ali if going for the same strength , and a frame that size in steel will prob be less than a 1kg difference to ali.
 
maybe we can merge our search for a off-the shelf our outsoucred 24" alloy swing arm http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=57668 You can save some weight here and go for a simple steel tube that you can weld by yourself.
 
Will this bike have peddles or just foot pegs?

I built my frame from box tubing. It started as a channel and I welded the halves together. The area that houses the GNG motor is sheet metal sandwiching the motor.

If I were to do it all again I would make the frame from sheet metal and fold it into a box with welds on the top and bottom or the sides depending on the shape. This is how I did my swing arm. I only have some short winter rides so it isn't tested but it feels like I got it this time.

the build thread:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=52793
 
That´s an interresting cool build Joe, thanks. There is no pedals in this build since it´s useless to add 200w human Power when you got >3kw Electric. :mrgreen:
Now i´m considerring swingarm-bearings, needle or balls? It´s hard to find RS-capsuled needlebearings without using a bushing.
I got this double row 5201Z, here laying on the frame/swingarm-material:
frame1.jpg
 
Federal NTN A4059 A4138 Tapered Roller Bearing Set 4T-A4059 4T-A4138

I used tapered bearings for my swing arm. Like you, mine is a single pivot. These are the smallest I could get from my auto parts store. With the taper there is no play assuming they are tight. My first bike build from 8 years ago used the same bearing and I saw no need to do anything different this time.

I built plastic seals to keep out the dirt. My new build has a grease fitting so I can flush the bearings if I feel the need.
 

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I have two points to think about.

1. I would not want a long Trials stem, that rides like shit... I don't like it. I would go with a longer Frame and a short stem.
2. I would put the Motor in the main frame. You can then make the geometrie of the driveline the way, that the chainstays (Motor axle to rear wheel axle) are getting longer, when the Suspension compresses.

When you accelerate your weight and the acceleration is compressing the Suspension. Same time your Motor pulls the chain and tryes to shorten the chainstays(because they are getting longer under compession) he helps the Suspension.

That effekt is used on all bikes like Mountainbikes MX-Trial motorcycles...
 
This idea is similar to a bike that I am designing for my wife. She wanted a smaller version of my bike that she felt like she had more strength/leverage over. She wants a seat but this is the current state of design and the idea looked similar. This is using a BHT motor direct drive and 10AH/20S hardcase. I am going to try to get the controller/shunt and wiring hidden in little wedge shaped boxes near the motor mount to frame tube transition. This is using 17" moped wheels and probably geared for 30mph. Will have crazy torque for trials type riding.

kendra%20bike_zpsif5zfmxb.jpg
 
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