Please, for respect to LR's thread, any Cyclone questions you should probably be posted @ the Cyclone thread, or you can always PM me.Ddt wrote:Hello gman1971
Do you know the width of the stator and the mm of the lamination of the stator?
LightningRods wrote:I'm finishing up the orders from the busy season in North America and Europe. I plan to get into working with the new motors once things slow down. I'm looking at several motors.
Here is what I'm working on right now. This is an 11 gauge stainless steel sprocket with stainless steel spacers that have the Shimano freehub spline cut in their center. The assembly bolts onto a standard Shimano freehub. This is for users who want to run more power than a bicycle sprocket can handle. A 1/2" x 1/4" single run chain will run on these .1196" thick sprockets. Run with the single stage drives this 48t sprocket creates a two stage reduction. If you run a 20s battery you should have a top speed of over 40 mph.
The number of spacers that are put on the inside and outside of the sprocket can be swapped to align the rear sprocket with the chainwheel.
For people who prefer a thread on flanged freewheel like an ACS or White Industries I also make sprockets with the five bolt freewheel pattern.
the screws probably will hold just fine. for a prototype it's ok. if you go in "mass" production you still can change itLightningRods wrote:Excellent suggestion. These are grade 1O.9 M5 socket flat head bolts.
sure. this is great. while looking at the pictures again i noticed that it would make sense to change the single discs for a single thick one. why? as the slots don't line up exactly, they won't evenly put stress on the hub.LightningRods wrote:Thanks for the suggestions. I'm glad that there is some interest in this design.
I also think aluminum would be strong enough since there is a stack of spacers all bolted together. If you go with Al, you might want to get them anodized in case theLightningRods wrote:That's true. I always expect the tooling on broaching and extruding to be prohibitive. Maybe it's not. I'll see what I can find out.
I also thought about sand casting but I'm not sure the spline would be accurate enough. Die casting would be good but I know the dies are pricey.
I'm waffling on whether the spacers need to be stainless steel or not. Stainless laser cuts better than aluminum and is stronger but heavier and harder to countersink for the flatheads. There is so much surface area I'm thinking that aluminum is probably strong enough.
don't worry, thats the star termination point of the windingsbchampig wrote:I may have pushed the small block too hard on my mountain trek last weekend. When I opened the motor to replace the halls, I noticed some burnt windings. How bad does this look to you all? Should I just hit it with some high temp laquer? I think I may need the big block.
LightningRods wrote:The problem is the manufacturing process. How are you going to cut a perfectly straight splined bore that's 25mm deep? Laser or water jet is not straight or clean at that depth. Plus the stacked spacers allow side to side alignment with the chainwheel.
But these are bolts. Maybe you mean SHOULDER BOLTS.izeman wrote:nice parts mike, but i would suggest using bolts instead of screws to minimize play and have an more exact fit. screws are not made to transfer shearing force.
In that case you probably talking about Press-Fit Female Round Standoffs.izeman wrote:whatever you call them in english. in german a bolt has no thread. a screw does.
and no i didn't think about shoulder bolts, but it would work as well of course.
i was talking about a unthreaded bolt on the outside but with an inner thread. that way you have a solid surface over the whole distance that can transfer shear forces.