Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

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beyeriii
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Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Apr 16, 2014 12:15 am

This posting is about restoring and hopping up a Mongoose CX24V200 similar to the one shown below
81bDQTvhMpL__SL1500_.jpg
Side Note: in the UK this bike is sold as a Barracuda
1_277172PoweredbicyclesBarracuda.jpg
1_277172PoweredbicyclesBarracuda.jpg (117.87 KiB) Viewed 3830 times
The bike was purchase used. It arrived in OK shape with dead batteries missing plastic body parts and damaged throttle.
Photo of left side
1.jpg
Photo of right side
2.jpg
Left side of Currie Electro Drive including motor shaft, 9T sprocket, #25 chain, and power connector)
3.jpg
Currie Elector Drive motor power connector disconnected from battery box
4.jpg
Fuse and power switch
5.jpg
Right side of Currie Electro Drive motor
6.jpg
24VDC Battery charger connector
7.jpg
Twist throttle (damaged)
8.jpg
Left hand brake (and some missing part, e.g. light)
9.jpg
Rear axle
10a.jpg
Motor mount
11.jpg
Customer service phone number
12a.jpg

beyeriii
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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Apr 16, 2014 1:24 am

Disassembly begins with removing the seat and plastic body parts followed by battery box and motor

Photo of battery box electrical connectors and right side of battery box upper mounts
13.jpg
Close up of battery box electrical connectors (notice zip-ties)
14.jpg
Left side of battery box upper mounts
15.jpg
Left side of battery box lower support
16.jpg
Bike with battery box removed
17.jpg
Battery box removed from bike
18.jpg
Battery box opened note the 1/8" drive Allen / hex cap bolts
19.jpg
Close up of 1/8" drive Allen / hex cap bolt
20a.jpg
Styrofoam filler removed from battery box. Removing the Styrofoam fillers allows for upgrading to 12Ah batteries instead of stock 7Ah batteries
21.jpg
Close up of battery box supports (inside red circles) for 12Ah batteries
22.jpg
Speed controller removed from battery box. The stock speed controller says on it
DC Brushless Motor Controller
Input Voltage 24V
Control Voltage 1-4V
Output Current 25A
Make Date: 2007-10-22
Serial Number 07T001942
23.jpg
Next post will show removing the motor

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by Dauntless » Apr 16, 2014 1:37 am

Awww, man, they pop up occasionally on Craigslist some 50 miles away and while I'm trying to work on getting out there it gets away.

There was a guy, Reid Welch, that did a bunch of work with one of those. If you find old posts about them he's commenting. Here's some Google Groups discussion that includes him. One thing he suggests is sticking with the OEM controllers, so you step up to 36v/750w Currie controller if you stick with that motor. He suggests that his motor was standing up under it just fine.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en# ... dyARXiSf98

So the question is, do you want to go 36v on that motor to get close to 700w, or do you want to step up there? Others talk like you can put a bigger Currie motor right where the old one was, though I haven't tried it myself. The biggest motor on their site anymore is https://www.curriestore.com/bikes-scoot ... 201317237/ I'd rather go to electricscooterparts.com for this one:
http://electricscooterparts.com/motors36volt.html# wrote:36 Volt 1000 Watt Currie Electric Scooter Motor With 11 Tooth Sprocket
36V 1000W electric scooter motor. Powerful four brush permanent magnet electric motor design with 100% ball bearing construction. 11 tooth sprocket for #25 chain. 25" long power leads with connector at end. 3 bolt mounting bracket measures 3-7/8" center to center distance between holes. Dimensions: 4"(H) x 4"(W) x 5-1/4"(L) including shaft. Weight 8 lbs.
Item # MOT-SD361000 Compatibility: Currie electric scooters including: Schwinn, Mongoose, eZip, IZIP, and GT.
Motor model: XYD-13A
$134.95
Image
That thing might hotfoot nicely with this. https://www.curriestore.com/bikes-scoot ... 201317014/ But then, the motor you have now might do just fine with it. If it DOES burn up, you could try a bigger motor then.

So you get the idea this is the project that got away from me, eh? Have fun.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 28&t=45170
Any sufficiently advanced technology is INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM MAGIC!
- Arthur C. Clarke

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Apr 17, 2014 12:38 am

Hi Dauntless,

Thanks very much for the info regarding Curry Electro drive.

This build is for some kids I know who will soon be able to ride a bike with 18" wheels.
I am documenting the restoration and hop up as a benefit to others that might encounter
the Mongoose CX24V200.

As you already know, but as a benefit to others, the Mongoose CX24V200
is the baby sister of the Mongoose CX24V450.

Here is a comparison of the CX24V200 and CX24V450
Component	CX24V200	CX24V450 
---------	--------	--------
Suspension	None		Front and Rear

Tires		18" Front	20" Front and Rear
		16" Rear

Speed		10mph		15mph

Volts		24VDC		24VDC

Watts		200		450

Batteries	7Ah		12Ah

There are a couple of postings about hopping up the CX24V450 on Endless Sphere, e.g.

Mongoose CX 24v450 low speed and high speed options? (your recommendation)
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 28&t=45170

and also

Mongoose CX 450 Builds
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... 77#p688038

The plan for this bike is to:
  • Increase the battery size from 7Ah to 12Ah while using the use the stock battery box (by removing the Styrofoam fillers)

    Use LiFePO4 replacement SLA batteriers with built-in BMS, for example
    http://www.ctcbattery.com/LiFePO4-Recha ... le-Battery

    Increase speed to 14-15mph while remaining at 24VDC.
Increasing the speed while remaining at 24VDC is were I will doing more research (thanks again for the info) and probably asking questions from other readers. For example the stock motor is rated at 300 watts but I assume is detuned to 200 watts. It would be nice to run the motor at 300 watts and increase the front (motor) sprocket from 9T to 13T or perhaps 14T. My next posting will cover removing the motor followed by disassembly and cleaning of the rest of the bike. The posting after that will be an analysis of the motor and speed controller and speed hop up options (your 1KW motor included)

Thanks very much again for your reply, help and interest in this project :D
Last edited by beyeriii on Jun 07, 2015 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Apr 17, 2014 11:45 pm

Removing the Curry Electro Drive motor is very straight forward.

1. Disconnect the motor connector cable
4.jpg
2. Loosen chain adjustment bolt (circled in red)
24.jpg
3. Remove the four hex cap bolts (circled in red)
25.jpg
The motor is approximately 100mm in diameter and 110mm in width (including protruding shaft and bearing / brushes housing)
The motor has a label that says:
Model: XYD-6A3
Voltage: DC24V
Rated speed: 2600R/MIN
Rated current: 18A
Output: 300W
Currie Technologies Inc
26.jpg
This is a photo of the Currie logo
27.jpg
The drive shaft side of the motor has what I am guessing is a serial number, i.e.
XYDJ071011680
The #25 chain sprocket has 9 teeth (9T) and is mounted on a 8mm drive shaft
28a.jpg
The 9T sprocket secured using a 3mm x 15mm roll pin
29.jpg
The motor base plate mounting bracket dimensions are:
Overall: 110mm long, 55mm wide
Bolt Centers: 93mm long, 40mm wide
30.jpg
The next posting will cover disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly of the non electrical components of the bike (yawn)

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by Dauntless » Apr 18, 2014 1:12 am

Sorry, totally missed that it was the 200 you were working with. Some of what those guys learned about the 450 will probably still apply.
Any sufficiently advanced technology is INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM MAGIC!
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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by gogo » Apr 18, 2014 10:45 am

A temperature sensor would be prudent. Its best to move cooling air so that brake dust is not forced into the windings (suck it out?).

If you figure that the controller has a 2.5X motor amp limit, that would be 62.5A. I'd guess that's close enough to magnet saturation that you wouldn't want to increase the amps. If you use 36V to increase the top speed, you might want to knock down the amps if you find the heat climbing too quickly. If you have a potted controller it might be easier to buy a different one with the desired amp limit.

The brushes might tolerate 36V just fine, but 48V might be pushing the voltage limit? The temperature sensor would be your friend @48V, as well as careful monitoring of the brushes initially.

The forks on the 450 were bent backwards on almost every picture of an in-service example that I saw, so keep an eye on that?
"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking." -Steven Wright

beyeriii
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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Jun 07, 2014 1:00 am

Disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly of the non electrical components

Loosen the rear axle to remove the chain from the front sprocket.

Remove the pedals. This step can be preformed after removing the crank arms if desired.
Important: the left pedal has left hand (LH) threads, turn the wrench clockwise to remove the left pedal.

Remove the crank dust cover using a large flat head screwdriver.
The crank dust covers have 22mm x 1 right hand (RH) threads
IMG_20140427_175008_810.jpg

Remove crank arm retaining nuts using a 14mm socket.
The crank arm retaining nuts have 10mm x 1.25 RH threads.
IMG_20140427_180143_063b.jpg

The crank arms are pressed onto a tapered square spindle crank.
Remove the crank arms using 22mm x 1 crank arm removal tool (e.g. Park Tool Cotterless Crank Puller - CCP-22)
IMG_20140427_175801_216b.jpg

Remove the left side bottom bracket lock ring using a three notch 46mm spanner wrench (e.g. Park Tool Crank and Bottom Bracket Wrench HCW-5
The left side bottom bracket lock ring has RH threads.
IMG_20140427_174045_700b.jpg

Remove the left side bottom bracket adjustable cup using a large crescent wrench or Park Tool Adjustable Cup Wrench HCW-11
The left side bottom bracket adjustable cup has RH threads
IMG_20140427_174252_821b.jpg

Remove the right side bottom bracket fixed cup using Park Tool Crank and Bottom Bracket Wrench HCW-4.
Important, the right side bottom bracket fixed cup has left hand (LH) threads, turn it clockwise to loosen.
IMG_20140427_190920_042b.jpg

Removing the bottom bracket cup reveals major junk
IMG_20140427_174745_223c.jpg

Remove the front and rear tires.
The stock front tire is a Innova 18 x 2.25 (57 - 355)
IMG_20140427_231541_010c.jpg
The stock front rim is approximately 31mm wide
IMG_20140427_234646_476c.jpg
The stock rear tire is a Innova 16 x 2.25 (58 - 305)
IMG_20140427_234408_842b.jpg
The stock rear rim is approximately 39mm wide
IMG_20140427_234619_584c.jpg

The rear sprocket uses #25 chain and has 48 teeth (48T)
IMG_20140427_235547_007b.jpg

Remove the kickstand
Kickstand removal tools are rather pricey. These photos show how to improvise using a box end wrench and a 4" C - clamp
IMG_20140427_193938_875b.jpg
IMG_20140427_194124_781b.jpg

Remove the hand grips
An easy way to remove hand grips is by using a blow gun to blow compressed air between the hand grip and handle bar.
IMG_20140427_200006_442b.jpg

Notice: Riding at full throttle dramatically reduces your range
IMG_20140601_130954_667b.jpg

The CX24V200 does not have front suspension as previously documented.
IMG_20140427_235950_042b.jpg

Photo of disassembled bike components on work table
IMG_20140504_131115_250b.jpg

Photo of cleaned and polished bike components on work table
IMG_20140504_233923_033b.jpg
The next posting will cover analysis of hop up potential of speed controller, motor, gearing and batteries.

beyeriii
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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Jun 10, 2014 11:39 pm

gogo wrote:A temperature sensor would be prudent. Its best to move cooling air so that brake dust is not forced into the windings (suck it out?).

If you figure that the controller has a 2.5X motor amp limit, that would be 62.5A. I'd guess that's close enough to magnet saturation that you wouldn't want to increase the amps. If you use 36V to increase the top speed, you might want to knock down the amps if you find the heat climbing too quickly. If you have a potted controller it might be easier to buy a different one with the desired amp limit.

The brushes might tolerate 36V just fine, but 48V might be pushing the voltage limit? The temperature sensor would be your friend @48V, as well as careful monitoring of the brushes initially.

The forks on the 450 were bent backwards on almost every picture of an in-service example that I saw, so keep an eye on that?
Hi GoGo,

Thanks very much for the advice.
A temperature sensor and Cycle Analyst will be used during the analysis of
the motor, speed controller, batteries, gearing before and after hop up.
A pretty mild hop up is planned, because this bike is intended for young kids.
The stock speed is 10mph, the planned hop up speed is 14mph.
The stock motor is rated at 300 watts but is detuned to 200 watts.
The stock battery box has 7Ah batteries, but has room for 12Ah batteries.
Thanks again for the advice.

beyeriii

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by misterb » Jun 30, 2014 12:20 pm

I found one of the cx24v200 locally that I'm going to pick up today. I'm interested in hitting 15-20mph, what do you think my best path would be?

beyeriii
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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Jul 14, 2014 12:09 am

Hello MisterB,

I apologize for the delay in responding. To attain 20mph is challenging at 24V.

This post will eventually cover an evaluation of the following Currie 24V motors with the CX24V200,
various sprocket combinations will be used:

Model: XYD-6B2 DC Earth Magnet Motor
Currie Technologies part number: MT-24450-001
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24v- ... urrie.html

Model: XYD-6D Motor
Currie Technologies part number: SD-4007-2
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24vo400wamow.html

Another approach might be to use a 16" rear hub brushless motor.

I hope your project works out well, please post your results.

Thanks,
Malcolm

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by misterb » Oct 14, 2014 5:37 pm

I finally got my cx24v200 torn down enough for a test. My example had sat outside for quite awhile which made the teardown of even the battery box a challenge. I just charged and tested 2x 4s in series, charged each cell to 4.1 for 32.8V when fully charged. Wired it up, flipped the switch, and rolled the throttle - the controller seems to be OK with the overvolt.

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Oct 14, 2014 10:55 pm

Thanks for the update and info about running two 4s (14.8V) in series.
Please keep us up to date with the project.

I am interested in if you will be using a on-board or off-board charger
and how you will layout the cells in the battery box.

My project is currently on hold. I had a setback because
I planned to use some old SLAs for testing but found one
of them had failed. Currently saving for LiFePO4 for batteries,
which hopefully will be purchased soon.

Thanks again for the post and please keep us up to date :)

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by beyeriii » Dec 16, 2016 1:39 am

Continuation of Disassembly and Reassembly of Non Electrical Components

Serial Number
The Serial Number is printed on a label underneath the frame's battery box support bracket.
IMG_20140601_130922_755b.jpg
Remove Sprockets
The rear wheel motor sprocket uses #25 chain. A #25 sprocket remover / chain whip is a rather specialized tool.
An improvised sprocket remover can be made using a pair of vise grips and a scrap length of #25 chain.
The rear wheel motor sprocket has left hand (LH) threads, turn clockwise to loosen and remove the rear wheel motor sprocket.
IMG_20140621_205429_340b.jpg
Clearer photo of improvised #25 sprocket remover.
IMG_20140621_205831_336b.jpg
The rear wheel pedal sprocket (freewheel) uses 1/2" x 1/8" (#410) bicycle chain.
BMX and cruiser bicycles typically use #410 chain.
The rear freewheel is a BMX type of single speed freewheel.
It has 16 teeth (16T) and thread size is 1.375" x 24 tpi.
It may be removed using a four notch freewheel removal tool,
for example a Park Tools FR-6 freewheel remover.
IMG_20140621_205817_503b.jpg
Photo of rear wheel with tools and sprockets removed
IMG_20140621_205744_481b.jpg
Replace Rear Pedal Sprocket
To make it easier to pedal, the stock 16T freewheel is replaced with 20T DNP freewheel.
It will probably be necessary to change the length of the #410 chain as a result.
Note: a Sturmey-Archer freewheel might be a better choice than the DNP, time will tell…
IMG_20140705_163653_404b.jpg
Make Custom Rim Strip
It is difficult finding a rubber rim strip for a 16”wide profile rim.
A new rim strip can be made by cutting a larger rim strip and splicing it to size.
Rubber cement is used to splice the ends together.
Overlap the ends by approximately 2.5”.
IMG_20140607_151033_315b.jpg
IMG_20140607_151247_434b.jpg
IMG_20140607_152706_249b.jpg
Photo of custom size rim strip, splice is circled in red.
IMG_20140627_233221_024b.jpg
Replace Tires
The stock tires are in okay condition but will probably soon start to dry rot.
As preventative maintenance, the front Innova 18 x 2.25 (57 - 355) tire replaced with a new Innova 18 x 1.95 (54 – 355) tire.
This tire is a better fit on the front 31mm wide rim.
IMG_20161213_225456_047b.jpg
The rear Innova 16 x 2.25 (58 - 305) tire is replace with a CIND 16 x 2.4 (64 – 305) tire.
This tire is a little on the wide side, but okay on the 39mm wide rim.
IMG_20140627_234352_588b.jpg
IMG_20140627_234416_069b.jpg
Install Tire Liners
It is more difficult to repair a rear flat tire than a front flat tire.
This is because it is necessary to readjust the chain tension after reinstalling rear wheel.
For this reason throne proof inner and tubes and Stop Flats 2 bicycle tire liner are used for the new rear tires.
IMG_20161213_224335_097b.jpg
Partially inflating the tube makes it easier to install Stop Flats 2 tire liner.
IMG_20140627_232827_347b.jpg
Replace Fake Shock Boots
The fake front shock boots had dry rotted.
Pro Comp 11127 (14901 02049) will work as a replacement but do need to be cut to fit.
IMG_20140621_214434_381b.jpg
IMG_20140621_214421_396b.jpg
Replace Brake Cables
Jagwire Mountain Pro Brake Cable Kit ( black/carbon color) is used to replace brake linkage.
Mountain_Pro_Brake_pkg.jpg
Mountain_Pro_Brake_pkg.jpg (69.47 KiB) Viewed 1393 times
An angle grinder / cutoff wheel with painters tape around the brake cable is one way to cut brake cable without much fraying.
IMG_20140706_201032_141b.jpg
Or something like the Park Tool CN-10 Cable and Housing Cutter might be a better choice.
CN-10_001.jpg
CN-10_001.jpg (20.96 KiB) Viewed 1393 times
Reassembled Wheels, Brakes and Crankshaft
Photo showing reassembled wheels, brakes, and crankshaft
IMG_20161213_224405_898b.jpg

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by evolutiongts » Dec 16, 2016 1:10 pm

I gotta send you a pic my friend got a Mongoose CX with a QS motor and Sabvoton thing is so fast!
http://www.electricrt.com
Electric Race Technologies

10Kw KMX death trike
MUXUS 3K Turbo
Sabvoton 72V150A
Moto Wheels all around
Front Suspension Kit
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =6&t=83423

Giant Trance 4 Full Suspension
Cyclone 3000W
74V 3000W
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =6&t=59005

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by TattooedMommy » Apr 10, 2018 10:14 am

During my spring cleaning I pulled this exact bike the mongoose CX 24v200 out of my garage and I'm deciding to Let It Go and it looks exactly like your blue one except mine is red and I can't seem to find any information about it anywhere so I don't know what to ask for it.. I'm not sure if I still have the charger for it I have to look around in my garage and see.. so it has not been fired up and running in a few years so I don't know the workings of the battery and everything else that makes it move but it looks in great condition.. the last time it was fired up and rode it worked just fine but again that was a few years ago.. I don't want to get ripped off so I don't know what to ask for the going price.. if you could help me out and let me know how much this bike is worth I would greatly appreciate it and thank you

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Re: Mongoose CX24V200 Restoration and Hop Up

Post by Raisedeyebrows » Apr 10, 2018 10:45 am

TattooedMommy wrote:
Apr 10, 2018 10:14 am
During my spring cleaning I pulled this exact bike the mongoose CX 24v200 out of my garage and I'm deciding to Let It Go and it looks exactly like your blue one except mine is red and I can't seem to find any information about it anywhere so I don't know what to ask for it.. I'm not sure if I still have the charger for it I have to look around in my garage and see.. so it has not been fired up and running in a few years so I don't know the workings of the battery and everything else that makes it move but it looks in great condition.. the last time it was fired up and rode it worked just fine but again that was a few years ago.. I don't want to get ripped off so I don't know what to ask for the going price.. if you could help me out and let me know how much this bike is worth I would greatly appreciate it and thank you
To be honest they usually do not sell for a whole lot of money and seem to mainly be of interest to people on this forum for purposes of removing most of the parts and modifying them into bikes an adult can actually ride. List it in the classified section here for $100.00 buyer pays shipping and somebody might want it to make a project out of it, I have two already which I already spent way too much money fixing up so I'm good and don't need one myself. Maybe somebody would want to trade you a regular pedal bike or something you would actually use for it?

Added: for anyone looking at these bikes there is a major difference between the two models, the 200w version of this bike does not have a rear suspension w/coil shock like the 450 model does.
Yuba Mundo w/BBSHD
Specialized Hard Rock w/9c clone, statoraid, hubsink
Trek Fuel 90 w/BBSHD
Above all run on 14s4p 52v li-ion
Ecobike folder 36v
Currie Flyer scooter 24v on 24ah of SLA

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