new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » May 09, 2016 8:21 am

The pull up force due to the tangential chain pull is a simple moment balance of the the motor frames rotation (due to forces & torques) around the bottom bracket.

Pull up Force x Strike location = tangential chain pull ( cos(chain angle) x sm pulley radius + sin(chain angle) x distance from motor pulley to BB axle)

chain angle = 18.65 degree, small pulley radius =1.18", distance from motor pulley to BB axle = 6.87"

Strike location (for this calculation we choose where motor frame alum 2 hole hinge meets motor frame and would hit down tube) =4.75"

Pull up Force = 377 lb x (0.95 x 1.18 + 0.32 x 6.87) / 4.75 = 263 lb.

The tangential chain force 377 lb used here is what the c3000 produces at 52v, 42 amp.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » May 09, 2016 8:43 am

this motor frame modification to the C-3000 frame makes the new setup stiffer than the LR SM Block frame when deflection is measured. I also own a LR Small Block to test such declarations as to its stiffness.
Mod IMG_6492.jpg
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Mod IMG_6493.jpg
Mod IMG_6493.jpg (190.01 KiB) Viewed 1790 times
Mod IMG_6494.jpg
Mod IMG_6494.jpg (166.75 KiB) Viewed 1790 times

The modification has 3 steps:

1. Change out bolts on alum hinge to 1/4" thru bolts (1/4" x4.5" L9 Allen head bolts) as the 2 hole hinge is already drilled to 1/4" not 6mm. Get rid of the steel standoff [aka: coupling nuts or threaded spacer] and add a 1/4x 1/2 x1 1/16 steel spacer (no washers). Grade 8 bolts are sufficient and have shorter heads. This length used on 68mm BB.

2. Stiffen the motor end without adding [longer bolts] length[= more flex] to the bolts ( of step 1) but by adding the 2 alum angles fastened as shown that is attached to the motor frame -- not the end of the bolt spacers.

3. Put a shear wall inside the motor frame such as shown with the primered steel tube held in place with 3 thru bolts. If you adjust the motor frame wall width with the included BB spacers you can get its sides parallel. Two of these bolts when placed in the right spots can act as stop gaps for eliminating the chain from getting between the smaller chain wheel and the motor frame.
Last edited by DingusMcGee on May 16, 2016 6:23 am, edited 5 times in total.

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Re: KMX Trike mount

Post by gman1971 » May 09, 2016 10:32 am

robocam wrote:Thanks for mentioning me G =) You make really nice drawings. What software do you use?

I finally got my Cycle Analyst V3 hooked up to my Cyclone thanks to your help in this thread.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =2&t=21232

Let me know if you'd like me to test anything on it. I'll try my best.
gman1971 wrote:...These CAD renders show how my KMX trike mount is built, along with the sideplate mod that Robocam kindly suggested earlier on this thread...
No prob man, you were the 1st person who implemented the side plate upgrade without buying an LR upgrade mount, and that what worked for you did work very well for me too, so thanks. I might invest on a CNC at some point, but for the simple stuff a jigsaw and CAD blueprints work just fine; but some of the very complex stuff I've done in the past I've 3D printed (but these didn't require any structural strength so PLA or ABS worked just fine)

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » May 09, 2016 11:42 am

It deserves pointing out that the Robocam side plate upgrade topologically loads the existing overloaded 2 bolts pretty much like the suggested gear clamp fix around the motor and left most spacers did. In the end it does little more to stiffen the system than the gear clamp did.
Last edited by DingusMcGee on May 09, 2016 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: KMX Trike mount

Post by adam333 » May 09, 2016 12:02 pm

robocam wrote:Thanks for mentioning me G =) You make really nice drawings. What software do you use?
Agreed, nice drawing and rendering G. :)

A good design always start with a CAD.

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Robocam Plate Mod (Cyclone sideplate mod)

Post by robocam » May 09, 2016 9:49 pm

You're welcome =) It's great to see a successful implementation on your trike, and it's awesome to hear that it can handle at least 6660 watts with no issues!

I actually did try to buy the Lightning Rods bracket, and I was super excited when Mike told me he had sets available, but then I never heard back from him after several contact attempts, so I decided to make it myself because I couldn't wait any longer.
IMG_3866 copy.jpg
Indication:
3000W Cyclone middrive (I recommend not using your middrive until you've reinforced the mount so that all your parts will be perfectly straight)

Features:
-Light weight
-Rounded edges
-Proven to handle at least 6660 watts as tested by Gman (Thanks G!)

Parts List:
1/8" x 2" aluminum
Two 1/4-20 coupling nuts (mine were 0.8815" or 22.4 mm long)
1/4" washers
Two 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" screws
Two 1/4-20 x 3" screws
Two 3/8" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" steel spacers
Four 1/4" x 3/8" x 1" steel spacers (I chose 1" because that was all I could find, two 1-1/2" spacers would be ideal because they go inside the spacers above)
Blue threadlocker (this is what I use http://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24240- ... ailpages01)

Some Tools Needed:
Grinder with a metal cutoff disc (or any tool for cutting/shaping the aluminum)
Rotary tool with a metal cutting disc (for cutting the screws/bolts and steel spacers)

Instructions:
There are many ways to implement this idea. This is just how I did it.
Be sure to use blue threadlocker on all threads.

1. Find something the same diameter as the back of your Cyclone, or make a circle out of posterboard or cardboard. This circle will be used to trace the shape of the back of the Cyclone onto the aluminum. You can use a compass too.
Image

2. Cut the aluminum
IMG_3830 copy3.jpg
3. Put the plate onto the Cyclone and trace the locations of the stock motor bolts. This will help guide where to drill the holes. Use a ruler to help you mark the locations of the other bolts. The two bolts are not the same distance from the motor, so don't make the same mistake I did by measuring only one side. It might be a good idea to practice on a piece of cardboard.
IMG_3833 copy.jpg
4. Take the black spacers that came with the kit and make their holes big enough for the 1/4" screws/bolts. I used a tap, but you can drill them out as well.

5. Insert the smaller spacers into the larger spacers. Trim the smaller spacers until they're flush with the larger spacers.
IMG_3832 copy.jpg
6. Put it all together using blue threadlocker. Round the edges using a grinder (this will save your foot).
IMG_3852 copy.jpg
IMG_3847-r.jpg
Another picture of the parts assembled
(175.84 KiB) Downloaded 12 times
Here are a few parts that I purchased from Lowes.
2016-05-09 19_21_37-Adobe Photoshop.jpg
(197.5 KiB) Downloaded 12 times
Feel free to ask any questions!
gman1971 wrote:...No prob man, you were the 1st person who implemented the side plate upgrade without buying an LR upgrade mount, and that what worked for you did work very well for me too, so thanks....
Attachments
IMG_3821-e.jpg
IMG_3821-e.jpg (164.31 KiB) Viewed 100 times
Last edited by robocam on Jul 12, 2017 11:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 12:48 am

Very VERY nice, indeed!

Mine is holding 6+ kW with HALF of the mod, and I am also using the stock bolt diameter too; so in your implementation you have double the holding points (4 bolts vs 2 bolts) and thicker bolts too; therefore it should be good for even more power, and best of all it doesn't look like a contraption escaped from a Frankenstein movie.

Once the motor mount is been reinforced, remember that the rest of the parts on the driveline can still snap: chain, chainring, cassette, freewheel...

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

DingusMcGee
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » May 10, 2016 7:22 am

I do not know why anyone would go thru all the work of installing the Robocam upgrade when the instalation still uses standoffs [threaded spacers = wobble] rather than thru bolts and the structure entirely relies on the same location of anchoring [the double hinges = wobble] for which such modification cannot be stiffer than the simple gear clamp with the standoffs replaced with thru bolts.
Mod IMG_6415.jpg
Here we see the gear clamp attached to a thru bolt connection which consists of long bolts passing thru the hinges [thru bolt = more stiffness than standoffs]. It is likely to be a little stiffer than the Robocam upgrade because the standoffs are not used and the bolts pairs are replaced with thru bolts.
Mod IMG_6415.jpg (192.01 KiB) Viewed 1728 times

And BTW, frame stiffness can be quantitatively determined with this dial gauge setup and some pulling and pushing. So send your upgrade frame to me and we can resolve any issue of how much stiffness you [robocam and gman] have actually achieved with all that gracious work.
Mod IMG_6488.jpg
Mod IMG_6488.jpg (190.55 KiB) Viewed 1728 times

For loadings, normally I have suggested that doubling the amps doubles the torque but after looking over the Russian data on the C-3000 I see the motor becomes very inefficient at 6kw and higher. So such declarations like the one below simply are a case of where linearity does not apply and we would not see a doubling of the torque.
Mine is holding 6+ kW with HALF of the mod
So such declarations as the above are likely not much of test.


As I have said before, it is riding where you get drive train shock loading that requires motor frame stiffness. Doing top end speed tests on a flat pavement in Wisconsin does not produce much drivetrain shock loading so such a floppy upgrade as the Robocam does't get much of a test as to its stiffness and it may work fine for you until you take the kid gloves off where you ride your bike. For gloves off: I suggest Trail riding on steep hillsides that require some brickwalling and you will "road" test your setup.
Once the motor mount is been reinforced, remember that the rest of the parts on the driveline can still snap: chain, chainring, cassette, freewheel...

Especially the above breakdowns from drive train shock loading and yes wear.

Thanks for mentioning me G =) You make really nice drawings. What software do you use?
And surely they know how to use all the neat computer tools of the 21th century but can they even apply Newton's Law of 17th century properly? GIGO.

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Re: Robocam Plate Mod

Post by Phife » May 10, 2016 8:48 am

robocam wrote:You're welcome =) It's great to see a successful implementation on your trike, and it's awesome to hear that it can handle at least 6660 watts with no issues!

I actually did try to buy the Lightning Rods bracket, and I was super excited when Mike told me he had sets available, but then I never heard back from him after several contact attempts, so I decided to make it myself because I couldn't wait any longer.

So here it is, the Robocam Plate Mod =)
IMG_3866 copy.jpg
Indication:
3000W Cyclone middrive (I recommend not using your middrive until you've reinforced the mount so that all your parts will be perfectly straight)

Features:
-Light weight
-Rounded edges
-Proven to handle at least 6660 watts as tested by Gman (Thanks G!)

Parts List:
1/8" x 2" aluminum
Two 1/4-20 coupling nuts (mine were 0.8815" or 22.4 mm long)
1/4" washers
Two 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" screws
Two 1/4-20 x 3" screws
Two 3/8" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" steel spacers
Four 1/4" x 3/8" x 1" steel spacers (I chose 1" because that was all I could find, two 1-1/2" spacers would be ideal because they go inside the spacers above)
Blue threadlocker (this is what I use http://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24240- ... ailpages01)

Some Tools Needed:
Grinder with a metal cutoff disc (or any tool for cutting/shaping the aluminum)
Rotary tool with a metal cutting disc (for cutting the screws/bolts and steel spacers)

Instructions:
There are many ways to implement this idea. This is just how I did it.
Be sure to use blue threadlocker on all threads.

1. Find something the same diameter as the back of your Cyclone, or make a circle out of posterboard or cardboard. This circle will be used to trace the shape of the back of the Cyclone onto the aluminum. You can use a compass too.


2. Cut the aluminum


3. Put the plate onto the Cyclone and trace the locations of the stock motor bolts. This will help guide where to drill the holes. Use a ruler to help you mark the locations of the other bolts. The two bolts are not the same distance from the motor, so don't make the same mistake I did by measuring only one side. It might be a good idea to practice on a piece of cardboard.


4. Take the black spacers that came with the kit and make their holes big enough for the 1/4" screws/bolts. I used a tap, but you can drill them out as well.

5. Insert the smaller spacers into the larger spacers. Trim the smaller spacers until they're flush with the larger spacers.
]

6. Put it all together using blue threadlocker. Round the edges using a grinder (this will save your foot).


Here are a few parts that I purchased from Lowes.


Feel free to ask any questions!
gman1971 wrote:...No prob man, you were the 1st person who implemented the side plate upgrade without buying an LR upgrade mount, and that what worked for you did work very well for me too, so thanks....
Thanks for that awesome write up Robo! Looks like a great upgrade, I will be doing the same thing on my bike this weekend.

I also tried to buy the Lightning Rods upgraded Cyclone mount and talked to Mike about it half a dozen times, He kept telling me it was ready and I could buy one, and every time I asked him how much and where to send payment and got no response. I really wanted that mount, but he kept giving me the run around. Finally I wrote him and said, "It feels like you are jerking me around, can you Please just tell me if you will sell me this mount" his reply "Yes" nothing else. I think he likes to jerk people around. I know I wont deal with him anymore.

But now I can make my own! Sweet! Thanks again!
2008 Full Suspension Giant Reign 2 with 48v 750W BBS02. Click Here
2014 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Evo FSR with Luna Cycle 3000w Mid Drive, 52V 20ah Backpack Battery. Click Here

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by stealth71 » May 10, 2016 8:56 am

This post was made by DingusMcGee who is currently on your ignore list. Display this post.

Amazing.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by stealth71 » May 10, 2016 8:58 am

If a tree falls in the woods and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?

DingusMcGee
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » May 10, 2016 9:10 am

Phife,
Finally I wrote him and said, "It feels like you are jerking me around, can you Please just tell me if you will sell me this mount" his reply "Yes" nothing else. I think he likes to jerk people around. I know I wont deal with him anymore.
I concur 100% with you about doing business with the fellow you mention above. He will take your money and when you see the goods, it will be sometime much later...............

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » May 10, 2016 9:14 am

I have seen this post repeated:
So here it is, the Robocam Plate Mod =)
IMG_3866 copy.jpg
Indication:
3000W Cyclone middrive (I recommend not using your middrive until you've reinforced the mount so that all your parts will be perfectly straight)

Features:
-Light weight
-Rounded edges
-Proven to handle at least 6660 watts as tested by Gman (Thanks G!)

Parts List:
1/8" x 2" aluminum
Two 1/4-20 coupling nuts (mine were 0.8815" or 22.4 mm long)
1/4" washers
Two 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" screws
Two 1/4-20 x 3" screws
Two 3/8" x 1/2" x 1-1/2" steel spacers
Four 1/4" x 3/8" x 1" steel spacers (I chose 1" because that was all I could find, two 1-1/2" spacers would be ideal because they go inside the spacers above)
Blue threadlocker (this is what I use http://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24240- ... ailpages01)

Some Tools Needed:
Grinder with a metal cutoff disc (or any tool for cutting/shaping the aluminum)
Rotary tool with a metal cutting disc (for cutting the screws/bolts and steel spacers)

Instructions:
There are many ways to implement this idea. This is just how I did it.
Be sure to use blue threadlocker on all threads.

1. Find something the same diameter as the back of your Cyclone, or make a circle out of posterboard or cardboard. This circle will be used to trace the shape of the back of the Cyclone onto the aluminum. You can use a compass too.


2. Cut the aluminum


3. Put the plate onto the Cyclone and trace the locations of the stock motor bolts. This will help guide where to drill the holes. Use a ruler to help you mark the locations of the other bolts. The two bolts are not the same distance from the motor, so don't make the same mistake I did by measuring only one side. It might be a good idea to practice on a piece of cardboard.


4. Take the black spacers that came with the kit and make their holes big enough for the 1/4" screws/bolts. I used a tap, but you can drill them out as well.

5. Insert the smaller spacers into the larger spacers. Trim the smaller spacers until they're flush with the larger spacers.
]

6. Put it all together using blue threadlocker. Round the edges using a grinder (this will save your foot).


Here are a few parts that I purchased from Lowes.


Feel free to ask any questions!

My modification is simpler so you likely do not need an idiots guide as to how to do it,. Also such information as bolt length is incorrect for some other sizes of bottom bracket width.

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Re: Robocam Plate Mod

Post by robocam » May 10, 2016 9:51 am

Hi Phife! You're very welcome! Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Be sure to post pictures here =)

I checked out your build in your sig. Looking good! I like how you made your own coiled power cable. Thanks for that idea!

It's unfortunate Mike isn't selling the mounts. He could have made a killing!
Phife wrote:Thanks for that awesome write up Robo! Looks like a great upgrade, I will be doing the same thing on my bike this weekend.

I also tried to buy the Lightning Rods upgraded Cyclone mount and talked to Mike about it half a dozen times, He kept telling me it was ready and I could buy one, and every time I asked him how much and where to send payment and got no response. I really wanted that mount, but he kept giving me the run around. Finally I wrote him and said, "It feels like you are jerking me around, can you Please just tell me if you will sell me this mount" his reply "Yes" nothing else. I think he likes to jerk people around. I know I wont deal with him anymore.

But now I can make my own! Sweet! Thanks again!

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 9:55 am

stealth71 wrote:If a tree falls in the woods and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?
LOL... hahahaha...
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

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"Tangential Edition"

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 10:07 am

While most of us are all outside enjoying riding our bikes and trikes having fun, some people here seem bent on achieving the "Ultimate Anti Dynamic Load Tangential Edition" Cyclone 3000W motor mount, but the wait is over, I am proud to introduce it here first for the world to see... the Cyclone 3000W "Tangential Edition", with cement rebar and a myriad of new applications.

Some high impact cement rebar and we solve all these pesky tangential problems, inertial load issues and whatever you can imagine, all in a one single block solution...

Image

Image

Image

And guaranteed to excel even in the toughest applications...

Image

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

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Re: "Tangential Edition"

Post by stealth71 » May 10, 2016 10:33 am

Sorry, but I think you've got it all wrong. The rebar needs to be arranged in an asymmetrical double dodecahedron (ADD) tangential to the applied dynamic loading force. If you decide not to use rebar you could use 4000psi fibermesh reinforced concrete. That might save some weight, but we will have to see if any one here knows how to calculate the tangential loads with fibermesh instead of the ADD rebar solution.
gman1971 wrote:While most of us are all outside enjoying riding our bikes and trikes having fun, some people here seem bent on achieving the "Ultimate Anti Dynamic Load Tangential Edition" Cyclone 3000W motor mount, but the wait is over, I am proud to introduce it here first for the world to see... the Cyclone 3000W "Tangential Edition", with cement rebar and a myriad of new applications.

Some high impact cement rebar and we solve all these pesky tangential problems, inertial load issues and whatever you can imagine, all in a one single block solution...

Image

Image

Image

And guaranteed to excel even in the toughest applications...

Image

G.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 10:36 am

@stealth71,

I am on it... I guess even the "Tangential Edition" can still be improved upon...

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » May 10, 2016 10:54 am

LoL, thanks again Gman =)

You're absolutely right. An individual over in the Lightning Rods middrive thread says he keeps blowing rear hubs, so the next component to fail might be the rear hub.

At least you've shown us that the mount won't fail when fortified with the plate, so that's one less thing to worry about.

With your help we can make the Cyclone bulletproof and accessible to all! The Cyclone is one of the best middrives available, especially at its current price. I thank you again for convincing me to buy it even when there was nothing wrong with my previous mid drive setup =)
gman1971 wrote:Very VERY nice, indeed!

Mine is holding 6+ kW with HALF of the mod, and I am also using the stock bolt diameter too; so in your implementation you have double the holding points (4 bolts vs 2 bolts) and thicker bolts too; therefore it should be good for even more power, and best of all it doesn't look like a contraption escaped from a Frankenstein movie.

Once the motor mount is been reinforced, remember that the rest of the parts on the driveline can still snap: chain, chainring, cassette, freewheel...

G.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 11:14 am

Thanks to you too Robocam,
The side plate mod clearly works: it adds two more holding pivots to the motor and addresses the side forces the outer bolts are experiencing under load, this mod is a must for those who still prefer to keep the motor RPM down. I spin my crank at ~350 RPM cadence so the torque requirements for my setup are reduced by ~1/6th over a 60 RPM crank cadence so I don't need a "tangential edition" mount; but some people might very well prefer to run theirs at a more sane RPM, thus they need the side plate mod and not just a mere washer mod.

Blowing hubs and other things, yeah, that is going to happen once you move the weakest link somewhere else; I figured you could also strip the splines on the rear cassette hub too, unless that is what blowing the rear hub means... (I am thinking blown freewheel?) or crank the chain in half... or strip the 11T cog flat so it looks like a pulley... oh so many ways of your joy to come to a screeching halt...

G.
robocam wrote:LoL, thanks again Gman =)

You're absolutely right. An individual over in the Lightning Rods middrive thread says he keeps blowing rear hubs, so the next component to fail might be the rear hub.

At least you've shown us that the mount won't fail when fortified with the plate, so that's one less thing to worry about.

With your help we can make the Cyclone bulletproof and accessible to all! The Cyclone is one of the best middrives available, especially at its current price. I thank you again for convincing me to buy it even when there was nothing wrong with my previous mid drive setup =)
gman1971 wrote:Very VERY nice, indeed!

Mine is holding 6+ kW with HALF of the mod, and I am also using the stock bolt diameter too; so in your implementation you have double the holding points (4 bolts vs 2 bolts) and thicker bolts too; therefore it should be good for even more power, and best of all it doesn't look like a contraption escaped from a Frankenstein movie.

Once the motor mount is been reinforced, remember that the rest of the parts on the driveline can still snap: chain, chainring, cassette, freewheel...

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

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gman1971
10 kW
10 kW
Posts: 954
Joined: Oct 17, 2015 10:17 pm

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 11:52 am

Oh, you are helping a lot too, and with generous contributions like that WE can make the kit really nice. I am already working on my 3rd one as we speak... so yeah, I love this cheap Cyclone...

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

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le15otl
100 W
100 W
Posts: 150
Joined: Feb 24, 2015 10:49 am
Location: Gloucestershire, England

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by le15otl » May 10, 2016 1:18 pm

I noticed a few days ago that my freehub now has a lot of play in it. I was hoping that wouldn't happen. :(

Is kind of frustrating with this much power when you strengthen and improve many many aspects then something else just fails.

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gman1971
10 kW
10 kW
Posts: 954
Joined: Oct 17, 2015 10:17 pm

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by gman1971 » May 10, 2016 1:20 pm

le15otl wrote:I noticed a few days ago that my freehub now has a lot of play in it. I was hoping that wouldn't happen. :(

Is kind of frustrating with this much power when you strengthen and improve many many aspects then something else just fails.
freehub as in the cassette freewheel?

G.
I am all about high-speed, low-drag, mid-drives and gears...
A-1B trike, 6+kW, 65+mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFC8MRwvgUM
A-2A trike 3kW, 50mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNoqp0wl6Vo
eB-1C bike 3kW, 42mph (Cyclone powered): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_weSmz_h3Ig

cbobgo
1 mW
1 mW
Posts: 12
Joined: Feb 28, 2016 11:48 am
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Contact:

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by cbobgo » May 10, 2016 1:54 pm

Hello Cyclone 3000 fans and gurus. I have purchased the Luna cyclone kit, and am planning to install it on my Nirve Streetking. I have one question for you all:

Is there any reason that I can't install it above the frame, instead of its usual position below the frame?

Please see the attached pic, and I apologize for my poor graphic skills.

- bob
Attachments
streetking3.jpg

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le15otl
100 W
100 W
Posts: 150
Joined: Feb 24, 2015 10:49 am
Location: Gloucestershire, England

Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by le15otl » May 10, 2016 2:10 pm

G yeah the cassette hub it just wobbles a bit. Not sure if it can be replaced on it's own. :/

Bob no reason that will be a problem if it fits in the gap!

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