new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[joshuahuang]

anyone have experience changing out the planetary gears? How hard is it? Which bolts do you remove?

[lukashanak]

Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA

[sjrides]

I'm looking for some good looking 175mm ISIS crank arms that accept a freewheel and will clear the Cyclone 3000w with standard 68/73 bb. I see a lot of trials cranksets online but I don't want to spend $60-100 a pop to find out they don't clear the motor!

Has anybody tried anything besides the stock crank arms that you can buy from Luna or Sick Bike Parts? Neither offer 175mm ISIS arms, and the arms they do sell are pretty fugly. The trials cranks look a lot nicer and might be lighter and stiffer too. The 5mm difference isn't a big deal when using the motor but when just riding without it, I definitely notice myself wanting the extra leverage.

[Tommm]

Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA

Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.

[sjrides]

Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.

i'm curious too.. I thought the 4k motor was rated for 45a

[Tommm]

Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.

i'm curious too.. I thought the 4k motor was rated for 45a

Those numbers are made up... The motor core is 30% wider.

[mstulken@telus.net]

Hi. I'm in the middle of building a couple of 2000's era freeride/downhill bikes with the cyclone 3000. I am encountering an issue on my first build and was wondering if anyone had any ideas/solutions. My drive on the bike had a 22/33 chainring setup and a topswing deore front derailleur. Despite pre-build tinkering, I was getting chainrub on the bottom cage of the derailleur in the smaller chainring. I ordered a kit with 3 front rings - one drive and a 42 and 22 chainring. The derailleur doesn't seem to have enough range. My thoughts are maybe I can replace the derailleur with a newer one with greater range - not sure if this is available or scrap the idea of a double front chainring set up and just go with a 33. I opted for the 22 as I intend to use the bike for going up steep logging roads to access the back country for hiking/climbing. Anyone faced a similar issue?
Thanks
Mike

[Grantmac]

Just get a wide range 9spd rear and use the 42 front.

Even 44f/32r will climb any road you could get a log truck up. Actually it'll just about climb anything a human can walk up.

[mstulken@telus.net]

Just get a wide range 9spd rear and use the 42 front.

Even 44f/32r will climb any road you could get a log truck up. Actually it'll just about climb anything a human can walk up.

Hey thanks for responding. Nice to see another BC person here. I'm in North Van.

[mstulken@telus.net]

Hi. I'm in the middle of building a couple of 2000's era freeride/downhill bikes with the cyclone 3000. I am encountering an issue on my first build and was wondering if anyone had any ideas/solutions. My drive on the bike had a 22/33 chainring setup and a topswing deore front derailleur. Despite pre-build tinkering, I was getting chainrub on the bottom cage of the derailleur in the smaller chainring. I ordered a kit with 3 front rings - one drive and a 42 and 22 chainring. The derailleur doesn't seem to have enough range. My thoughts are maybe I can replace the derailleur with a newer one with greater range - not sure if this is available or scrap the idea of a double front chainring set up and just go with a 33. I opted for the 22 as I intend to use the bike for going up steep logging roads to access the back country for hiking/climbing. Anyone faced a similar issue?
Thanks
Mike

I got an answer from Luna and confirmed what I had been moving to in my mind "Well the issue is that the cyclone cannot be used properly with a front derailleur, that is why you dont see any pictures of it on the listing or the forum. The triple chainring offers you 2 different ratio to choose from (like trail or street) but it must be shifted manually with your fingers, changing gear while pedalling or under power will result in a bent chain ring (specially with such a large gap)."

[Grantmac]

For chain and sprocket life you are much better using a larger chainring with the best possible chainline and getting a large enough rear cassette to climb what you need.
In my experience a 44 front and 34 rear on 26" rims will climb pretty much anything you have the traction to get up.

[lukashanak]

Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA

Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.

Sorry, I was kayaking last weeks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A4xLD8bL7atkThEo9

What do you want to know?
Its cyclone 4kw mounted on Specialized Epic. Upgraded motor mounts, freewheels, steel chainrings (big on motor for lower forces on bike chain and cog), brakes, shorter trial isis cranks, steel gears in gearbox now,sabvoton 72150 controller and 3x10ah +3x8ah lipos (18s 18ah pack). Now thinking about gearbox oil mod and some cooling mod for motor. I have temp sensor and controller limits power when overheated. If i dont ride to hard, its ok but summer wil be worse...

[Tommm]

Sorry, I was kayaking last weeks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A4xLD8bL7atkThEo9

What do you want to know?
Its cyclone 4kw mounted on Specialized Epic. Upgraded motor mounts, freewheels, steel chainrings (big on motor for lower forces on bike chain and cog), brakes, shorter trial isis cranks, steel gears in gearbox now,sabvoton 72150 controller and 3x10ah +3x8ah lipos (18s 18ah pack). Now thinking about gearbox oil mod and some cooling mod for motor. I have temp sensor and controller limits power when overheated. If i dont ride to hard, its ok but summer wil be worse...

How many amps and phase amps have you set it to? Do you know the temp of the motor while riding and what does the sensor measure, coil temp?
How fast does it get to 100C or whatever your limit is if you hammer it?

You can just change the gearbox grease, it made it quieter for me, mobiltemp shc 100, designed for electric motors with high heat.

[lukashanak]

How many amps and phase amps have you set it to? Do you know the temp of the motor while riding and what does the sensor measure, coil temp?
How fast does it get to 100C or whatever your limit is if you hammer it?

You can just change the gearbox grease, it made it quieter for me, mobiltemp shc 100, designed for electric motors with high heat.

Not sure exactly, but something about 130A battery and 330A phase.
Temp sensor I have on motor body ouside on thermal paste hidden below silicone. Temps not sure. Sensor shows a few degrees lower than is real. 45°C for shutdown motor and 40°C for lower power. I can reach it after 2km of WOT. I usualy ride in technical terrain in woods that temps not problem in colder weather. But I plan some coooling mod for summer. Or 4800W cyclone if this dies...

[lukashanak]

And I'm using field weakening. It makes about 30% more rpm. Less changing gears for short bursts.

[SwampDonkey]

Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA

Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.

Sorry, I was kayaking last weeks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A4xLD8bL7atkThEo9

What do you want to know?
Its cyclone 4kw mounted on Specialized Epic. Upgraded motor mounts, freewheels, steel chainrings (big on motor for lower forces on bike chain and cog), brakes, shorter trial isis cranks, steel gears in gearbox now,sabvoton 72150 controller and 3x10ah +3x8ah lipos (18s 18ah pack). Now thinking about gearbox oil mod and some cooling mod for motor. I have temp sensor and controller limits power when overheated. If i dont ride to hard, its ok but summer wil be worse...

Ha, you came to the same conclusion I did with my 4K. Mine maxes at around 80A but it has so much torque its just unusable in lower gears. Switched to the smaller 34T sprocket to get the power back as top speed. I can get to 50mph pretty easily. I use a couple of giant 20Ah lipos backed up with a couple of 36V 4.4Ah triangle batteries that happened to fit in my battery bag, so 4 batteries total. Also, a tensioner sprocket siding directly on a brass tube I placed over a guard mount bolt.

[lukashanak]

After many problems with chain slipping, broken chains..... I ended on 22/30 tooth on motor chain and 36/11-36 on back chain. Lower forces to bike components and with this power I can still climb everything. But cant use cranks at high speeds, but my power is inappreciable to motor. And chain slipping is gone and after 500km back chain still OK. Original freewheels are dead. Now I have rebuildable freewheels from white industries and time will show. And cyclone bearings on isis shaft cracking from last week. Looks like chinese cant make good bearings.

[Tommm]

Yea, you don't even need reduction with 5kw+ on a bike other than the 6:1 inside the motor. 1:1 for high speed, 1:1.5 for climbing.

Anything inside the realm of pedaling cadence will be destruction on the bike cogs, forget it.

[SwampDonkey]

After many problems with chain slipping, broken chains..... I ended on 22/30 tooth on motor chain and 36/11-36 on back chain. Lower forces to bike components and with this power I can still climb everything. But cant use cranks at high speeds, but my power is inappreciable to motor. And chain slipping is gone and after 500km back chain still OK. Original freewheels are dead. Now I have rebuildable freewheels from white industries and time will show. And cyclone bearings on isis shaft cracking from last week. Looks like chinese cant make good bearings.

Awesome bike! Im new to this, where did you find the freewheel with large cog mounted directly to the cyclone's shaft? I have a feeling mine wont last long. Also, I started a thread about this bike and the problems Ive had with damaged chainrings. Im sure aluminum is totally out of the question at this level. What have you found that survives the horror of 150A?

Also, are you still using the stock throttle? I found a MUCH better one that happens to be cheap as well. Just installed it today and the amount of control I had vs. the stock throttle is beyond words. I was actually not terrified of my own bike for a change lol. Before it was like riding the back of an angry lion or something.

Yea, you don't even need reduction with 5kw+ on a bike other than the 6:1 inside the motor. 1:1 for high speed, 1:1.5 for climbing.

Anything inside the realm of pedaling cadence will be destruction on the bike cogs, forget it.

Very true. Direct drive would be just fine, maybe with a longer chain going directly to the rear cassette. Unfortunately Im looking to sell this bike so I wont be able to tinker with it much longer.

[lukashanak]

On motor is 20mm shaft adaptor for trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=1927
And 22 tooth trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=2267

And on cranks is Ultra heavy duty freewheel from sickbike parts(made by white industries too)
Booth are rebuildable. Can buy pawls, bearings....

And chairing I buy with biggest weight instead of normal bikers
But I drive some time 38 tooth aluminium chainring and no problem. I think, that chain kill your chainring when is too long.
But the key is that you must lower forces. You can make it by bigger chain speed. For that I use 22/30 teeth on motor chain.

Throttle I have original halfhand from cyclone kit. Sabvoton controller can make my throttle curve so its ok for me. But give a tip, when this die I will try it. :-)And best instead of original cyclone controller which is speed controlled throttle, is torque controlled throttle. It feels like motorbike or car. More throttle = more phase amps.

[SwampDonkey]

On motor is 20mm shaft adaptor for trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=1927
And 22 tooth trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=2267

And on cranks is Ultra heavy duty freewheel from sickbike parts(made by white industries too)
Booth are rebuildable. Can buy pawls, bearings....

Throttle I have original halfhand from cyclone kit. Sabvoton controller can make my throttle curve so its ok for me. But give a tip, when this die I will try it. :-)And best instead of original cyclone controller which is speed controlled throttle, is torque controlled throttle. It feels like motorbike or car. More throttle = more phase amps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Thrott ... BoYGCVUJ8Q

Im also using a bluetooth controller on mine. The stock throttle always seemed to "jump" even when twisted very slowly. I grabbed one of these (below) on Ebay for 25 bucks. I had a Domino (very good) throttle on another bike, and this one is just as nice as far as being smooth from a stop up to top speed.

[lukashanak]

On motor is 20mm shaft adaptor for trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=1927
And 22 tooth trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=2267

And on cranks is Ultra heavy duty freewheel from sickbike parts(made by white industries too)
Booth are rebuildable. Can buy pawls, bearings....

Throttle I have original halfhand from cyclone kit. Sabvoton controller can make my throttle curve so its ok for me. But give a tip, when this die I will try it. :-)And best instead of original cyclone controller which is speed controlled throttle, is torque controlled throttle. It feels like motorbike or car. More throttle = more phase amps.

Im also using a bluetooth controller on mine. The stock throttle always seemed to "jump" even when twisted very slowly. I grabbed one of these (below) on Ebay for 25 bucks. I had a Domino (very good) throttle on another bike, and this one is just as nice as far as being smooth from a stop up to top speed.

Trust me....I had cyclone bluetooth controller. Torque based throttle is another level. The power is MUCH more controllable. Its not comparable.

[SwampDonkey]

On motor is 20mm shaft adaptor for trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=1927
And 22 tooth trial freewheel.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.p ... ct&id=2267

And on cranks is Ultra heavy duty freewheel from sickbike parts(made by white industries too)
Booth are rebuildable. Can buy pawls, bearings....

Throttle I have original halfhand from cyclone kit. Sabvoton controller can make my throttle curve so its ok for me. But give a tip, when this die I will try it. :-)And best instead of original cyclone controller which is speed controlled throttle, is torque controlled throttle. It feels like motorbike or car. More throttle = more phase amps.

Im also using a bluetooth controller on mine. The stock throttle always seemed to "jump" even when twisted very slowly. I grabbed one of these (below) on Ebay for 25 bucks. I had a Domino (very good) throttle on another bike, and this one is just as nice as far as being smooth from a stop up to top speed.

Trust me....I had cyclone bluetooth controller. Torque based throttle is another level. The power is MUCH more controllable. Its not comparable.

Interesting. Gotta have the right controller, right?

[Tommm]

I had the cyclone controller, now a different one from the same brand. What fixed throttle for me: "adjust accelerator curve" in options and buying a higher quality throttle. That option makes the throttle curve more logarithmic, with a similar effect as a torque throttle.

[SwampDonkey]

I just snapped my half-link chain yesterday on my 6Kw cyclone. Before it broke it visibly stretched. Went back to 25H chain since Ive never had a problem with it. I just accelerated HARD up the steepest hill I could find with the 25H and no stretching. I think this might be the appropriate motor-to-chainwheel chain for high power rigs. It looks to be about 50% more beefy than the purple halflink I was using, if not more.