new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by amberwolf » Jan 01, 2018 2:47 pm

progrock wrote:
Jan 01, 2018 7:46 am

BTW, the Cycle Analyst does not have it's own shunt... I wired in the CA connector myself, and wired across the controller's shunt.
Then you just need to disconnect the non-shunt/power wires temporarily. Anything that powers the CA or allows it to read current is necessary. (if you can't see the power usage you can't tell if things are working right)

Anything that does not do those two things should be disconnected to be sure any problems you encounter are not from misconfiguration.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by amberwolf » Jan 01, 2018 2:57 pm

progrock wrote:
Jan 01, 2018 8:41 am
I am only tapping the throttle repeatedly
<snip>
I also saw the Amps running in the 2-3A range from my light taps to the throttle (not too bad from what I'm expecting).
In the testing you need to apply continuous throttle, but at it's lowest range, so you can see the stable current as the motor spins.

If you "tap" the throttle you'll only get bursts of current, which would be higher than normal stable current as it starts the motor going.

If you apply throttle higher than the lowest range, you risk damaging things when configuration is wrong.

The 2-3A current should happen under continuous spinning no-load at full throttle, *after* you find the right combination. Some motors take more, some take less, but there shouldn't ever be high currents under no load--that means something is wrong electrically or mechanically that you'd need to find and fix before continuing.

EDIT: BTW, I ended up keeping the Cycle Analyst in use for now, running the throttle through it... that way I could limit the Amps as well as view the current usage.
If you do this then you don't know what is causing any particular behavior--if it is the CA or the wiring or a defect.

You need to only use the power and shunt wires to the CA, using it only to monitor and not to control, unless you are *absolutely certain* that it is completely setup to all of the correct settings in all of the menus, and that it causes the bike to operate normally already.

If you've never had it running normally *for sure* with those CA settings, then leave it out of the control loop entirely.

If you don't do the testing the way it's recommended, then you won't know if the results you get are valid or not, and are guessing which thing is causing what.

THis is why you have to go step by step, and do just one thing at a time.

It is also why you have to go thru the CA's Guide and set it up one step at a time, with *all* of the steps, and not skip sections, unless you are already very familiar with all of it's options and exactly what each one does and what interactions it causes.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Jan 02, 2018 7:23 am

Thanks for all the advice... finally got to do some no load testing during the day, double checked all 36 possible configurations... at first I found 2 tht seemed like they could be right, but after comparing the two directly against each other, one was a clear winner. Was seeing roughly what you expected, actually the setup that appears correct compared to the other 35, was mostly under 2 amps at full throttle, tho was very close. The "second" best setup used more than twice the amps, and was audibly a little louder.... and possibly less smooth... tho not 100% sure if that's in my head due to the noise. Either way, after thoroughly checking all 36 combinations, this one is a clear winner... unless I want to go backwards really fast.

Next plan is to do a test ride with the CA's reading the shunt voltage... to see what kind of values I am getting on the road If all appears to still be going well, I will be attempting to calibrate the CA correctly. I also plan to replace the motor/controller's smaller connectors (ie, replacing the hall sensor connector.... replaced pretty much all the other connectors on the motor/controller.... well the phase/power wires... other than those, and the throttle, every other wire/connector has been removed, and a CA DP connector/wires has been added... almost took the throttle cable with it, but figure it's a good idea to keep that around, at least for now.

Quite happy that the controller appears to be functioning correctly. Considering the heavy amount of modifications I made, i wasn't totally confident it would be alright. Hopefully I'm not speaking too soon. The only thing really left to do to the controller will be replacing the FETs with some better ones... which I have quite a few that would do the job... will see if I ever get around to it. Planning on building a Lebowski controller next, I'm wondering if it will work well with the Cyclone... the FOC seems promising.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by amberwolf » Jan 02, 2018 1:37 pm

progrock wrote:
Jan 02, 2018 7:23 am
I will be attempting to calibrate the CA correctly.
If the CA isn't already calibrated for the shunt value, then any current readings you got during testing previously may be very different from reality. However, as long as the current is still low, and you found a working combination that is the lowest current of all of them, then that should still be ok.

The Guide and/or the http://ebikes.ca site has info on how to calibrate the CA to the controller's shunt. There are alternate methods posted on ES under
calibrat* shunt*
or
measur* shunt*

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by progrock » Jan 06, 2018 6:38 pm

Thanks... I calculated my controller's Rshunt a while back, and double checked it more recently. Assuming the method I used is valid, I should be good. I'll double check to see if what UI did matches what is recommended there... I used the method described here pretty much exactly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okpFsoHNE7I (luckily I had bought an iCharger literally 3 days before I found this video)

What I was actually referring to was calibrating the throttle on the Cycle Analyst, that's the step I'm up to.

Also, I apparently need to see how I can adjust my BMS's discharge cutoff voltage. I'm using a Bestechpower HCX-D131... but it's technically a 24s version I am running as 20s (I was told by bestechpower that the BMS is completely capable of doing this without issue... but my battery just cutoff at 70V earlier today.... which I suppose isn't a horrible value to try not to go below, BUT, I still want to have the option to use the battery till it's at a lower voltage than that. I could be wrong, but my current guess is that is due to it being setup as a 24S model. ALSO, bestechpower's site claims that this cutoff voltage (which should be per cell, I believe) is adjustable.... among a few other values... BUT I see absolutely no information at all on how to accomplish this... considering my BMS, controller, and CA all have over discharge cutoffs... I definitely wanna be in control.

On a similar, side note... anyone using the android app for the stock bluetooth controller?... I have the bluetooth controller...not sure if there are actually any features I even care about... tho I would technically like to check it out. The problem is, when I went to install the unprotected app.... it literally wanted access to EVERYTHING.... and I mean everything. And even if the controller had some crazy crash detection feature where it would notify specific people and call an ambulance (needless to say it does not)... I still wouldn't want it to have half the access it's requiring me to accept to install. This is something I'm usually not as concerned about as maybe I should be... but never have i had an app list SOOO many things it wants access to... and I think maybe 1-2 of them might be viable... not the other 20 or so. Anyone have a way around this?... I was thinking about trying to use a cheap tablet or a phone that's not in use and clean... just to get the app running and see if there's anything at all I'd like to use/configure.... I just wanna be aware of the options.

BTW, just started putting together a Lebowski controller.... got a ways to go.. and still need close to half the parts(maybe less, I have a decent amount already).... plus gonna need to learn more about it... but I am very interested in trying it out with the cyclone. I was looking at the ASI BAC 800, which is tempting... but it doesn't support 20s batteries... while I suppose a 60v could be alright, at least for now I wanna stick to the 20s... but this Lebowski controller can easily support that and then some.. plus I've heard pretty good things about them... definitely wanna see what the fuss over FOC is about.

Anyway, I'm gonna go for a short ride to the store.... and then hopefully get to installing my ebrake sensors finally (had debated on using these, was tempted to get the nicer ones that ebikes.ca has eventually... but considering how scary this bike is... tho getting less so... I definitely think I shouldn't wait any longer to add the ebrake sensors... just hope I can get them installed/working cleanly, got carbon fiber brake handles, don't really wanna be drilling through them or anything)

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 07, 2018 8:45 pm

Just found this topic...to be honest, I am too lazy to go back and read all 113 pages, can somebody summarize regarding two questions?

1. How does the Cyclone compare to the LIghtning Rod Small Block (LRSB) as far as performance and reliability?
I can see the price differences and obviously the LRSB is more money. I am currently running a BBSHD and just want more power...tried to buy a Ludicrous controller from Luna but they won't sell me one because I haven't spent enough money with them. I understand it is a business decision and nothing personal. So now I need to make an engineering decision and decide which option to go with...Cyclone, LRSB, or stick with my BBSHD and run an external controller.

2. If I run a 3 speed Sturmey Archer rear hub (CS-RK3), how does it hold up with the Cyclone or the LRSB?
Question is assuming I take care of the hub, don't shift under power, keep it lubed, etc. The reason I want to run the CS-RK3 is I can run a single cog and get my chain line perfect. It is set up for a cassette but I plan to use a single speed conversion and one cog. Long story on the chain line but this will allow me to get it straight.

My sincere thanks for a summary :) .

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » Jan 07, 2018 10:29 pm

The Cyclone wins hands down. It is very reliable (gman's probably over 7500 miles with his 3 Cyclone trikes) and extremely powerful (good for 6500W peaks). It doesn't use a belt that can break. Ask Dingus about his experience with the belt. I've also had a 20mm belt break on my GNG mid drive. You don't want a belt.

You can also have any chainline you want with the Cyclone 3000. The BBSHD would only be an option if you can get a metal gear for it.

The Cyclone's stock controller can easily be shunt-modded to 90A with some solder.

How do you plan to use this bike?

I liked it so much I bought 2 of them.
Bullfrog wrote:
Jan 07, 2018 8:45 pm
Just found this topic...to be honest, I am too lazy to go back and read all 113 pages, can somebody summarize regarding two questions?

1. How does the Cyclone compare to the LIghtning Rod Small Block (LRSB) as far as performance and reliability?
I can see the price differences and obviously the LRSB is more money. I am currently running a BBSHD and just want more power...tried to buy a Ludicrous controller from Luna but they won't sell me one because I haven't spent enough money with them. I understand it is a business decision and nothing personal. So now I need to make an engineering decision and decide which option to go with...Cyclone, LRSB, or stick with my BBSHD and run an external controller.

2. If I run a 3 speed Sturmey Archer rear hub (CS-RK3), how does it hold up with the Cyclone or the LRSB?
Question is assuming I take care of the hub, don't shift under power, keep it lubed, etc. The reason I want to run the CS-RK3 is I can run a single cog and get my chain line perfect. It is set up for a cassette but I plan to use a single speed conversion and one cog. Long story on the chain line but this will allow me to get it straight.

My sincere thanks for a summary :) .

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 08, 2018 10:50 am

Thanks robocam...great info.

I ride off road 100% of the time. Mainly single track with a maximum speed of approximately 15-17 mph.

Has anybody run a Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 rear hub...or any 3 speed hub for that matter with the Cyclone? How did it work...or did it work :)? My plan is to gear it so that I run 2nd gear (straight thru) most of the time and have 3rd gear just to get to and from the trails.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » Jan 08, 2018 11:06 am

15-17 mph? You could probably leave it in one gear the whole time then. I can almost hit those speeds in my climbing gear (32T chainring going to a 50T in the cassette of my 29er). If you get it with the stock 1:1 chainrings, you'll probably exceed those speeds in your lowest gear. Even at the stock 40A limit with 52V, I can pretty much leave it in one of the middle gears the whole time while riding off road. It has so much more torque than the BBSHD. It will for sure put a huge smile on your face if you haven't tried something more powerful =)
Bullfrog wrote:
Jan 08, 2018 10:50 am
Thanks robocam...great info.

I ride off road 100% of the time. Mainly single track with a maximum speed of approximately 15-17 mph.

Has anybody run a Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 rear hub...or any 3 speed hub for that matter with the Cyclone? How did it work...or did it work :)? My plan is to gear it so that I run 2nd gear (straight thru) most of the time and have 3rd gear just to get to and from the trails.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 08, 2018 11:22 am

One gear...that was what I was hoping :).

I have a 14s6p (-25r cells) battery so plenty power available...I wanted to hot rod my BBSHD but Luna won't sell me a Ludicrous Controller and I don't have the patience to pick the potting out of a stock controller to do the shunt mod. If I have to go to an external controller on my BBSHD then the nice clean installation goes away and the Cyclone starts to become much more attractive since it looks like it will handle the power better than a modded BBSHD.

Where is the best place to buy a Cyclone kit?

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by dirkdiggler » Jan 08, 2018 12:07 pm

Same here with the I liked it so much I bought two. Plus the price is half the BBSHD. You will end up spending more time in the garage. Mostly chain issues. Chains wear out quicker and get torn apart with 6kw. If you keep it slow things will last longer. You'll also need to stiffen the mounting brackets. That's the biggest issue with the Cyclone. Luna has an upgraded version of the bracket which might work better than the old one. I haven't read anyone say whether it was better or not. If you are up for a little garage time, the Cyclone is a sweet way to up your power level. Sick bike parts also has them if you are in the US. Maybe Luna will sell you the controller for your BBSHD with your order. 8)

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 08, 2018 12:32 pm

Do you have to run an ISIS bottom bracket to install the Cyclone?

My current frame has a square taper and the actual frame is 112 mm wide.

Sick Bike Parts does have a nice installation manual for the Cyclone...if you are a newb like me:

http://sickbikeparts.com/content/Manual ... 01RevA.pdf

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » Jan 08, 2018 12:43 pm

No, you can run a square taper bottom bracket. Just be sure to choose the right option for your bottom bracket shell width.
Bullfrog wrote:
Jan 08, 2018 12:32 pm
Do you have to run an ISIS bottom bracket to install the Cyclone?

My current frame has a square taper and the actual frame is 112 mm wide...
Last edited by robocam on Jan 08, 2018 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Skaiwerd » Jan 08, 2018 1:12 pm

There is an updated cyclone mount designed and sold by Luna cycle. They don’t show it mounted on a bike or motor so it’s hard to tell how it works. Guess it doesn’t matter. They should have taken the design a little further and make it pivot or slide to tighten the chain so the tensioner would not be needed. Would rather have that function over the logos machined into every part. The LA ebike guy stopped offering his mount so Luna cycle is about the only option right now.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 08, 2018 5:05 pm

Has anybody installed a Cyclone kit on a Mongoose Fat Tire bike?

Thinking about trying it and wondered if there were any unique challenges?

Thanks for any scoop.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » Jan 08, 2018 8:21 pm

I just realized that you said your bottom bracket shell is 112mm wide, so you'll have to choose the appropriate bottom bracket option. I wonder if the 83-110 will work.

https://lunacycle.com/cyclone-mid-drive ... etary-kit/

You might want to ask this guy too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_6YBciXpY8
Bullfrog wrote:
Jan 08, 2018 5:05 pm
Has anybody installed a Cyclone kit on a Mongoose Fat Tire bike?

Thinking about trying it and wondered if there were any unique challenges?

Thanks for any scoop.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Zulu80 » Jan 08, 2018 9:54 pm

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 07, 2018 8:45 pm
Just found this topic...to be honest, I am too lazy to go back and read all 113 pages, can somebody summarize regarding two questions?

1. How does the Cyclone compare to the LIghtning Rod Small Block (LRSB) as far as performance and reliability?
I can see the price differences and obviously the LRSB is more money. I am currently running a BBSHD and just want more power...tried to buy a Ludicrous controller from Luna but they won't sell me one because I haven't spent enough money with them. I understand it is a business decision and nothing personal. So now I need to make an engineering decision and decide which option to go with...Cyclone, LRSB, or stick with my BBSHD and run an external controller.

by dirkdiggler » Jan 08, 2018 12:07 pm
Same here with the I liked it so much I bought two. Plus the price is half the BBSHD. You will end up spending more time in the garage. Mostly chain issues. Chains wear out quicker and get torn apart with 6kw. If you keep it slow things will last longer. You'll also need to stiffen the mounting brackets. That's the biggest issue with the Cyclone. Luna has an upgraded version of the bracket which might work better than the old one. I haven't read anyone say whether it was better or not. If you are up for a little garage time, the Cyclone is a sweet way to up your power level. Sick bike parts also has them if you are in the US. Maybe Luna will sell you the controller for your BBSHD with your order.



Bull frog I first heard about the c3000w on this build thread here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... elementary

This dude built 15 ebikes and compared all the other high power mid drives, I,e tangent BBSHD etc and his favourite was by far the c3000w for its high torque and low noise.

I have got the AFT hopped up version of this C3000w and now have clocked up 7000kms and loving every minute. This this pops mono’s in the first 4 gears and is nearly silent too boot….Dirkdiggler The bracket set it a lot stronger box section and better design with integrated controller mount than any of the other designs from Luna etc I have seen.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » Jan 09, 2018 8:57 am

Are you referring to the bent bracket? That's actually from Cyclone. Luna Cycle has been working on a CNC/laser cut bracket for some time now. Not sure when they will actually start selling it. They mentioned it in the Fast Electric Bike group on Facebook in July 2017.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G99tNdeZa0g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8d7j-sfTP4
Skaiwerd wrote:
Jan 08, 2018 1:12 pm
There is an updated cyclone mount designed and sold by Luna cycle...

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Skaiwerd » Jan 09, 2018 12:13 pm

robocam wrote:
Jan 09, 2018 8:57 am
Are you referring to the bent bracket? That's actually from Cyclone. Luna Cycle has been working on a CNC/laser cut bracket for some time now. Not sure when they will actually start selling it. They mentioned it in the Fast Electric Bike group on Facebook in July 2017.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G99tNdeZa0g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8d7j-sfTP4
Skaiwerd wrote:
Jan 08, 2018 1:12 pm
There is an updated cyclone mount designed and sold by Luna cycle...

Nope! It’s a $120 extras that does not come with the cyclone. It’s on the Luna cycle home page.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by robocam » Jan 09, 2018 12:28 pm

Oh, they finally made it. It mounts to the Cyclone 3000 the same way the old bracket did. The machined piece goes in the place of where the small aluminum blocks used to go. They said they're going to make them with side plates of varying lengths so that people can mount it in the triangle. That would have been perfect for my project here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKW7v9uMKJc

But $140, ouch! And it doesn't support the end of the motor to keep it from rotating. Someone said that's not necessary but I don't know man. But I'm glad they finally pushed it out despite how busy they have been.

https://lunacycle.com/luna-cyclone-3d-c ... ng-system/

Looks like Sick Bike Parts isn't selling the old bracket anymore either.
Skaiwerd wrote:
Jan 09, 2018 12:13 pm
Nope! It’s a $120 extras that does not come with the cyclone. It’s on the Luna cycle home page.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Bullfrog » Jan 09, 2018 3:33 pm

Robocam....I like that build with the Cyclone inside the triangle, well done. I would like to do something similar with a hardtail but I can't figure out what to do with my battery. I don't want to wear it...I would like to stick with a 14s but could drop to a lower number of parallel strings, currently running a 6p. EM3ev will build custom battery shapes and configurations...for a price and within some conservative volume constraints. Maybe I need to figure out a shape that would fit in the triangle along with the motor.

Thanks for the video...gives me some good ideas.

What is the thickness of the aluminum plate you used and came from Sick Bike Parts?

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Skaiwerd » Jan 09, 2018 3:59 pm

Bullfrog wrote:
Jan 09, 2018 3:33 pm
Robocam....I like that build with the Cyclone inside the triangle, well done. I would like to do something similar with a hardtail but I can't figure out what to do with my battery. I don't want to wear it...I would like to stick with a 14s but could drop to a lower number of parallel strings, currently running a 6p. EM3ev will build custom battery shapes and configurations...for a price and within some conservative volume constraints. Maybe I need to figure out a shape that would fit in the triangle along with the motor.

Thanks for the video...gives me some good ideas.

What is the thickness of the aluminum plate you used and came from Sick Bike Parts?
Nice to have options with a large frame. 6 6s in there. I’m thinking smaller enduro next with cyclone, hummm
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Seriously? A one speed

Post by DingusMcGee » Jan 11, 2018 7:52 am

Mod IMG_6891.jpg
Problems riding the Rough with a rear derailleur
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Robo has suggested having a one speed edirtbike. With rear suspension, you will most likely need a chain tensioner for a derailleur elimination method. An unacceptable way of achieving a chain tensioner would be to use a rear derailleur as this would hang out in harm's way and be no better than having a working derailleur. There is a variety of chain tensions already made in the bike component market but I could not find one that would work with a 48T rear cog. The Surly will take up to a 24T cog. These items seem to be made for taking up chain slack when running an internal gear hub.

I recently order and received the SRAM EX-1 derailleur, shifter and cassette at prices beating Amazon and get this: actually "in stock" from WWC. The cassette is far more durable than the SunRace steel that works okay for hill work as it is milled from one piece of steel. But at $123 for a derailleur I decided to go with one-speed gearing when riding the rough -- no trail -- but sage and mountain mahogany brush on the side slopes of hill & gully riding.

Here are some items to consider when making a chain tension for a large cog 40T - 50T.

1. The chain tensioner will have much better protection if it resides inside the stays or width thereof.

2. A set up that angles backward would likely not get bent out of alignment as easily as one that hinged and projected forward.

3. The closeness of roller to rear cog is better as this will allow for little misalignment due to chain rattling.

4. A return spring strong enough to keep the slack out of the chain for the rate you hit the bumps and create slack or tension.

5. Optional: create a set up that can swing out of the way when you decide to change the chain length and add a derailleur.

6. Possible unforeseen Measurement? How much chain take-up or loosing occurs during the full range of suspension movement? To determine the needed chain length you can remove a rear shock pin and swing the rear cage from uncompressed position into full compression for a trial chain length. You will not want the chain to get overly tight during this range of motion.

Low tech Solution: I was able to figure out a chain tension assembly that met the above criteria. I did employ a DMR chain tensioner (with the red pulley) fastened to a coaster brake arm that is gear clamped to lower stay and a hardware store spring for keeping the chain tight.


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View upside down

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Location of chain tensioner with shifter cable still on frame.
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So far the chain tension has worked without failing on some very rough riding through some brush. Top speed with this 48T gear is 21mph. The 48T, 44T, 36T sub-assembly steel cassette is homemade from steel Cyclone chainrings and the cassette offers 9 speeds.

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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by Alex07 » Jan 11, 2018 8:09 pm

Nice work on the custom rear tensioner what is the biggest gear tooth count on that ? is that 48t? how did you addapt that to a normal casette ?

How does the biek ride now single speed? i am guessing peddling is not an option any more ?

Also my other concern with this idea is that you will overload the motor ? or more precisely limit the c3000w to well 3kw of power only?

i don't think this will work at 6kw peaks that some people are running these through the derailuer gears. Multiple gears at the back allows you to overload the motor as you are running it more often in its correct RPM point for efficiency vs single speed and also it allows for cooling during gear changes etc.

what power are you running through this setup?

DingusMcGee
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Re: new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Post by DingusMcGee » Jan 11, 2018 9:11 pm

alex07

Nice work on the custom rear tensioner what is the biggest gear tooth count on that ? is that 48t? how did you addapt that to a normal casette ?
Alex,

basically, the 48T chainring is pinched & pinned [by 4 bolts] between two 26T cassette cogs, which happen to have the right diameter at teeth troughs to very closely fit the 104 mm bolt pattern. I describe how to do this Low Tech procedure in this thread see my post;

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 0#p1305970

page ahead of the above post and I tell what I did to make a 9-speed cassette.
Alex07,

How does the biek ride now single speed? i am guessing peddling is not an option any more ?
Since I haul the bike to where I presently ride I do not need speeds at 40mph. The bike is essentially an e dirtbike and I use the pedals for pedaling only when the motor system is down. The bike with me on it can easily do a smooth 51% grade.
mod2 DSC06071.jpg
Big Hit edirtbike
mod2 DSC06071.jpg (138.55 KiB) Viewed 413 times
Alex07,

Also my other concern with this idea is that you will overload the motor ? or more precisely limit the c3000w to well 3kw of power only?
The motor is spinning quite fast. These motors are more efficient at high speeds (rpm).

3kw of power only? I need more hill riding skills not more amps. I just cannot blame a failure to reach some summit on not having enough amps. I go up hillsides & hills where pedaling mt bikes would not have a chance. The lines I pick often have some "noise" -- think loose cobbles.

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