Here's the link to the stainless steel narrow-wide 30T or 32T rings from Wolftooth.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/col ... chainrings
Fair warning, the 32T is your best bet. The 30T will work fine too until the chain does one day drop off. Then the extra space between the 2 chainrings thats created by the little standoffs needed on the 30T will be just enough for your chain to get jammed between the 2 chainrings and it will probably snap one of the chains.
Here's my current upgrade in process.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Surly-Singleat ... UvEALw_wcB
Ya the major downside is going to be price at $50. It seems a little overkill. It just showed up at the house yesterday and is sitting on my desk, so I can't report on how it works. The stock cheapie Chinese chain tensioner that Dave has been using isn't working for me.
On the chunky, rocky, bouncy terrain out here I was getting some chain tensioner drops to the outside with the stock mount. The chain would end up tensioned by the arm instead of the wheel. I couldn't really adjust the wheel OUT far enough for perfect alignment.
I initially liked how solid this unit looked, and the wheel "guides" that look like they'll keep the chain on better under movement.
When it showed up at my house I was shocked at how good the quality is, you can't twist it, even the jockey wheel is steel, and the plates next to it are steel. Actually everything but the arm itself is steel, andI believe the arm is aluminum.
After watching this video I am even more impressed. Tension can be adjusted easily with a box wrench, instead of moving a pin into a hole, and it can PUSH or PULL the chain in either direction. It's set up to work the way we need it to stock, but ships with a spring to push the other way if you mount it on the inside of your mounts (configuration in video). You might want to carry an 18 mm flat wrench on your rides just in case you need to loosen it. The jockey wheel guides can be flipped so the beveled edges face inwards to work with 1/8" chain, and it ships to work with 3/32. The jockey wheel can be moved inward or outward by loosening a bolt on the arm to let the shaft slide. There's a bolt on one end of the shaft that lets you remove the plates to flip them, or to replace the jockey wheel. You might even be able to run it without the jockey wheel plates.