It does look crazy. I'm on his list for the second batch of 20. Mostly I just want to see if I can burn up some eskate motors.knurf wrote: ↑May 11, 2018 9:19 amA200s looks evil, but expensive at 400 GBP http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/threads ... ®*-project. It handles up to 16s which would spin a 3220 real quick.. Definitely will keep an eye on the development of that thing, thanks!
Nothing serious. I did tap the fixed BB cup over just a hair on the provided bottom bracket but it's no biggy. Depending on your gearing you may want to rearrange the rear cassette to get the best chainline. This is primarily for endurance and wear than it is in actually getting a running kit. I ran a 9 speed cassette for the last half of the riding season last year. When I put on a new wider range sunrace cassette and chain this year I pulled a couple of the sprockets to get a more ideal chainline. I found myself riding in my low gears a lot (I'm a clyde and love hills).
I finished soldering some hw6 vescs last week. I've been ok so far with 14s although just like with the current rc escs there is no headroom to fully charge 14s. We should be ok to push voltage a bit further than the eskaterssince we dont regen. I'm on 150a phase and might try a bit more once I get some spare ics. Might be ok since this new design has current measurement on all phases and cycle by cycle current limiting on each fet. Most importantly, the sensorless start feels pretty good (much more powerful than phase runner) and stator saturation compensation helps with the the low speed high amp jitters that sensorless foc often suffers from.tangentdave wrote: ↑May 10, 2018 11:09 pm8kW burst, 4-5kW continuous (w/heat sink and airflow, PCB will be potted somehow). I'd like to see phase currents in the 200A burst range. These systems seem to be much like the e-skates, high peak currents for 2-3 seconds during acceleration then a more tolerable current in the mid-upper rpm range.
Is it possible you have a 10k ntc thermistor but with an incorrect beta value? That would read the correct 10kohm at ambient and then get way off at higher temps. Since it's just a resistor polarity should not matterLeeleeducati wrote: ↑May 18, 2018 6:51 pmHey Dave,
I sorted out the throttle esc beep, but still haven’t been able to put too many km’s on.
My trouble is with the temp sensor. I don’t get 5 minutes down the road without it triggering the CA to stop. It reaches a very high temp in a very short time so I’m thinking something is faulty. Even if I put it on a stand and throttle with no load for a few minutes the CA flashes over temp (1188C).
I’m sure I have the CA setting correct as you have outlined in your setup guide. It even reads ambient accurately. Just under power (again even no load) temp climbs fast and it triggers over temp. The water jacket is full and the case is barely warm so I’m sure nothing is hot.
Is there a way to trouble shoot the sensor in the 3220? Any suggestions? Does the “negative”,”positive” make a difference in connecting the two wires to the CA?