For now I will go with the raptor straps for locking in the battery pack and some rubber bumpers on the frame tubing to cushion the pack from trail vibrations. Its a long story but with a small front triangle like this the work around from Bafang was to use one of the two bottle mount M-screws ONLY so the battery can be swivelled on this one M screw for tucking things in place. Because the Battery Pack needs to slide from the front of the bike to the back for installing into the mounting plate the top tube of this frame is just in the way for sliding the battery pack in place. As I will be from time to time swapping an extra pack for extra range when I am out on the trail the system shown in the photo is what I may go with. It actually is solid like this and the pack is cushioned in front triangle real well but it does look a little rough around the edges I realize.
Also shown in the photos are the ingredients for the handy man tubeless conversion. Karl from http://electric-fatbike.com/
recommends going with 24" tubes for the liner and inner working of the system as it fits tighter than a regular 26" tube on the 26" rims. I found some nice downhill 24" tubes that are a nice thick rubber and threaded schrader valves so this may do the trick, I will try it. I thought the store bought syringes were a bit over priced for shooting in the Stans no tubes solution so I am going with our kitchen Turkey baster (I may regret this) and a short length of rubber tubing.
Thanks for the tips on PAS guys. I am a 1/2 twist throttle guy so the PAS will be disabled when I get my program cable.