Weird servo tester or a regular e-bike throttle?

swbluto

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I was just messing around with my microchip and I've successfully converted a voltage-signal from a regular crystalyte throttle(or any regular voltage-based throttle) into a servo-train pulse that outrunner controllers run off of so, basically, that means I can directly connect a crystalyte throttle to the RC controller using this signal converter! Which means less money out of my pocket for a servo tester and I don't have to deal with a servo tester's weirdness for e-bike/e-scooter/e-etc. throttle use.

If there's enough interest, I may consider developing it into a product and offering it to the community. What do y'all think?

Right now, I'm planning on adding throttle limiting abilities for current-control and also an appropriate throttle ramp so that I won't be thrown off my scooter.
 
If it had added features, like current control, I'd say yes.

Matt has someone working on something similar.

What we really need are rc type controllers with voltage control inputs.........
 
I think it's a great idea. If it has a built in voltage regulator for good up to 50 volts (max of most currently available controllers till the UHV Castle comes out).

Put it together as a plug and play package available as either a grip or thumb.
 
I think all of us would want one, how big is the module? Did you take a servotester and just wire in throttle instead of the pot? Later, if Matt's friend comes up with a module that eliminates a BEC and is programmable, I am sure many of us would prefer this over what is currently available (depending on price).
 
If it's possible to wire the throttle in place of the pot that some servo testers, I assume, operate off of, then that might be an easy way to do it. Hehe. But... I still need a programmable current control and a throttle ramp-up profile so it seems I won't be doing that. What I did is that a hooked a pot(The throttle, by analogy) upto a microchip's analog voltage samping pin and programmed the microchip to output the appropriate servo pulse based on some continually repeating calculations. The microchip would need a 7-12v input to operate, though... being a minimalist/easy-as-possible fan, perhaps 50 mA can be drawn off the controller's voltage regulator somehow(or would that be practically impossible?)? Or perhaps a 6 double or triple A batteries? Or perhaps a, ugggg, voltage regulator can be used and connected to the battery. One of the nuisances of that is that I have to hook up another connection to the battery, which makes it not so easy any more and not so elegant. For my own personal use, I might just tap 9 volts of lithium cells on my battery but that obviously wouldn't be a generally usable solution.

(The industrial link software for the Castle Creations controller seems like it'll do the last two functions I mentioned, throttle ramping and current limiting.. but for a price that you have to call for. Prices that you have to call to check on aren't usually low. :lol: )

And, I was just wondering if there'd be any demand for such a thing and if there was, it might have a widespread enough benefit to the community for me to pursue. Otherwise, I'd just detail my creation process and the few hearty types with equipment(or money to invest in the not-so-cheap equipment) could follow along. It's just that I also want to make nice things accessible, and easy, to those who don't have, or want to exhaust, the skills, equipment, time or money to invest in the needed equipment to DIY.
 
Miles said:
What we really need are rc type controllers with voltage control inputs.........

Too true. But unless we have someone who knows someone in the Castle Creations company or someone with the capability to create a Castle-Creation's quality controllers, we're probably not going to get that wish granted with quality controllers any time too soon.(Given how small the e-bike market is compared to the RC airplane market, I kind of doubt we'd have enough economic influence to persuade them to make an exception to the industry standards.).

Does anyone know if there's a problem with regular voltage throttles with RC motors, though? The servo pulse would seem to have more immunity to noise than a voltage trimmer, and I can imagine RC motors to be electrically noisier than those slow hub motors.
 
I don't think there's any inherent noise problem with a voltage controlled throttle. The signal can be heavily filtered.

It would not be very hard to make your own servo tester that takes a standard hall throttle. Many off the shelf ones can be modified for this too. I have a schematic for one around here somewhere that just uses a 555 timer chip. With a little extra work, you can add a current limiter to the circuit too. This seems to be necessary with many RC controllers as their current limiters are not really made for high inertia loads like a bike. Something similar to the one I designed for John Tetz would work.
 
fechter said:
I don't think there's any inherent noise problem with a voltage controlled throttle. The signal can be heavily filtered.

Kind of like using a cap to ground or an inductor in series to create a low pass filter? Possibly, I just don't understand how an inductor does it though... the cap shorting a high-frequency to ground makes sense, but an inductor just "blocking" it? Man, I have to re-look at those formulas.


fechter said:
It would not be very hard to make your own servo tester that takes a standard hall throttle. Many off the shelf ones can be modified for this too. I have a schematic for one around here somewhere that just uses a 555 timer chip. With a little extra work, you can add a current limiter to the circuit too. This seems to be necessary with many RC controllers as their current limiters are not really made for high inertia loads like a bike. Something similar to the one I designed for John Tetz would work.

I've seen those around the 'net. To add a current limiter, you'd talking about adding a pot that'd impose a maximum limit on the servo's pulse width(or possibly control a division) and then it'd be adjusted until it seemed OK? I don't understand the need for current limiting in general applications(Well, ok, I guess I do... but I thought people just upgraded their caps/cooling systems/controllers to compensate for the higher extended periods of time with high current?); My only need stems from having a Ping battery that doesn't like anything continuous above 20ish amps.

By the ways, the code for current limiting would be a cinch on an Arduino micro-controller(It's like three lines to my existing code; read the pot value, calculate the limit, check if it's being exceeded and impose it if so.). Now if it actively sensed the current, then I'd need to implement a hall current sensor and THAT would be work.
 
swbluto said:
Miles said:
What we really need are rc type controllers with voltage control inputs.........
Too true. But unless we have someone who knows someone in the Castle Creations company or someone with the capability to create a Castle-Creation's quality controllers, we're probably not going to get that wish granted with quality controllers any time too soon.(Given how small the e-bike market is compared to the RC airplane market, I kind of doubt we'd have enough economic influence to persuade them to make an exception to the industry standards.).
The Castle Creations Industrial Link enabled controllers would also give us direct voltage control but they seem to be on hold, at the moment.

Potentially, the ebike market is much bigger than the RC plane market. Flying a toy plane is not quite as essential to life as transport is.....

Another feature that would be great to have is temperature controlled throttle ramp down.

It's not difficult to hack into a servo tester and run a lead to an external pot but I think you'd be onto a winner if you eliminated this step and also provided extra features.
 
swbluto said:
The microchip would need a 7-12v input to operate, though... being a minimalist/easy-as-possible fan, perhaps 50 mA can be drawn off the controller's voltage regulator somehow(or would that be practically impossible?)? Or perhaps a 6 double or triple A batteries? Or perhaps a, ugggg, voltage regulator can be used and connected to the battery. One of the nuisances of that is that I have to hook up another connection to the battery, which makes it not so easy any more and not so elegant. For my own personal use, I might just tap 9 volts of lithium cells on my battery but that obviously wouldn't be a generally usable solution.

There's the same need for low voltage supply when using a regular servo-tester. The lower voltage ESCs have a built in supply but the higher voltage opto-isolated ones don't. Most of us are using an external BEC such as: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/VHVBEC.htm
 
Ahhh, I see, so a logic level voltage supply is a pretty common problem with RC equipment. Interesting. I just know that the large bulky crystalyte controllers (probably) have a voltage regulator for its logic circuits and the throttle, I don't understand why RC controllers can't supply the same thing? Maybe it's because there's a variety of higher-current low-voltage devices on typical RC equipment... that'd make sense. Well, for the purposes of powering a chip, a simple voltage divider might suffice.... well, nevermind. That'd be so much wasted energy...

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5317&start=135 - It seems bubba's buddy is already working on code and a throttle solution very similar to mine. It's good to see these e-bike adaptations are emerging. Perhaps the next summer of the next gas spike will be the time RC-based electric bikes/motor-bikes becomes vastly popular when the solutions are ironed out by us, the early adopters, FORESEERS OF THE FUTURE(!), now when our crowd is relatively tiny. When electric cars start emerging in 2010 and are associated with "high status" due to their frankly high upfront prices, I'm pretty sure electric bikes will become much more widely recognized. Couple that with the next gas price spike and it's like this phenomenon is poised to explode.
 
I'm looking at servo tester circuits. I can see how to do it with analog circuits. An Audrino or other MCU would certainly be a viable route also, but I'm not up for learning to code right now. I'd use an Atmel if I was going that route (cheap).

To implement current limiting, there would need to be a current sensor of some sort. A shunt would be the cheapest, but I don't know where to get that resistance wire. I could also use an Allegro hall current sensor, but those are expensive. Using existing wiring works as a shunt, but is difficult to calibrate.

Anybody know where to get shunt wire?

What would be a good maximum current?

To do overtemp limiting, you'd need to decide on a sensor. It would be easy with a LM335 or similar if you have room for a TO-92 package as the sensor. You would also need to decide on the maximum allowable temperature and the foldback profile.

Also, does anyone know how picky RC controllers are about the servo PWM frequency? I think the standard is 20ms frame time, but what happens if that varies?

Will the RC controller be able to calibrate to the throttle range or does the servo tester need to provide that adjsutment?

So... how about a little box that has a connector for a standard hall effect throttle, a connector for a temp sensor, a current limit adjusting knob, output to the controller throttle and a built-in 5v regulator that can take over 100v in?

Sound like I might need to round up some more guinea pigs... :twisted:
 
fechter said:
An Audrino or other MCU would certainly be a viable route also, but I'm not up for learning to code right now. I'd use an Atmel if I was going that route (cheap).

I'm using an Atmel atmega168: It's pretty standard with arduinos(The arduino is the not-so-cheap part for JUST a throttle signal converter, but for learning and being introduced to microcontroller programming and that realm in general, it seems so invaluable.). Without an arduino, it seems you'd have to use existing c libraries and possibly assembly and that involves some mental gymnastics, but the arduino has simplified the programming so much with its own "interface" and libraries that I'm sure you could easily get upto speed if you wanted. I mean, to write a HIGH voltage to an output pin, it's like....

setup(pin_number, OUTPUT); (only needed once in the program)
digitalWrite(pin_number, HIGH);

EASY.

To implement current limiting, there would need to be a current sensor of some sort. A shunt would be the cheapest, but I don't know where to get that resistance wire. I could also use an Allegro hall current sensor, but those are expensive. Using existing wiring works as a shunt, but is difficult to calibrate.

Anybody know where to get shunt wire?

I don't know about shunt wire. The shunts I've seen seemed pretty dang expensive for just being a metal, but I think that's because they had a pretty excellent temperature coefficient... Like the resistance only changed .01% per degree celsius. :shock: I've seen Allegro sensors for around $5 on digikey. That isn't too expensive compared to the $10-30 shunt resistors, is it? Finding some cheap, but excellent shunt material seems to be beyond me besides internet searching but that doesn't always help in finding the BEST deal available(Price and product effectiveness combined) or some approximation. Even eBay didn't seem to provide anything more competitive for shunt wire.

To do overtemp limiting, you'd need to decide on a sensor. It would be easy with a LM335 or similar if you have room for a TO-92 package as the sensor. You would also need to decide on the maximum allowable temperature and the foldback profile.

Noted. I'm looking for some usable temperature sensors. Does the Lm335 stay accurate with use and does it output a simple, usable output voltage? The ATMEL microcontrollers have analog sampling pins that can read voltage values with ease. But, why is a sensor needed? I can imagine it'd be nice to make sure it stays precise and the current limit value known, but I can also imagine limiting the maximum pulse width based on a trimmed-voltage value would work to limit the current... you may not know how exactly much it's limited(unless the current is measured somehow else...), but it's limited and with testing, it can be "good enough". But, yeah, that's kind of a discomforting situation when not good enough could mean busted.

Also, does anyone know how picky RC controllers are about the servo PWM frequency? I think the standard is 20ms frame time, but what happens if that varies?
I found a source online that stated anywhere between 17-23 ms is fine, but going too slow or too fast may either reset it or "confuse it" and lose sync. I would think better controllers, like the Castle Creations ones, would have better tolerance.

Will the RC controller be able to calibrate to the throttle range or does the servo tester need to provide that adjsutment?

Seems like that differs from RC controller to RC controller. The Castle Phoenix auto-calibrates to the throttle by requiring WOT at startup for upwards of 4 seconds, and then dropping to no throttle. Assumably, cheaper controllers just assume 1 ms as 0% throttle and 2 ms at 100% throttle and do some kind of line/curve in-between(possibly linear, exponential, or etc.), but I'm getting clarification on that at the RCgroups forums.

So... how about a little box that has a connector for a standard hall effect throttle, a connector for a temp sensor, a current limit adjusting knob, output to the controller throttle and a built-in 5v regulator that can take over 100v in?

Sound like I might need to round up some more guinea pigs... :twisted:

I'd be interested how this format would be received. Quick question, though, how do you think the current sensor would be connected to the battery line? It sounds like all these sensors, current and temp, would complicate the setup process beyond simple "plug and play"... well, perhaps the more advanced features can remain as "optional" in the software, so you could have it either way(and it'd be automatically detected - or these modes could be manually set by small switches.). Ultimately, though, at least a few connectors will have to be adapted somewhere as there doesn't really seem to be a universal standard with throttle, controller, battery connectors and temp sensors.
 
Hi,

fechter said:
To do overtemp limiting, you'd need to decide on a sensor. It would be easy with a LM335 or similar if you have room for a TO-92 package as the sensor. You would also need to decide on the maximum allowable temperature and the foldback profile.

Overtemp limiting for both the Motor and Controller would be nice (IMO).
 
I wish I understood electronics more in depth. This stuff fascinates me. Oh, well, we all have our place in this tapestry of development.

I think if we all contribute what we can, this niche will advance into more main stream transportation.

I cannot tell you how happy I am to see these projects moving forward.

Hmm, how about electronic servo control of the derailer?

So many possibilities.

Matt
 
The LM335 and similar devices run on 5v and output a signal that is precicely calibrated to temperature. I have some LM34's here that I installed in my Puma motor. The LM34 outputs 10mv/degF, so at 200F, the output is 2.0v. What is a typical maximum temperature for motor windings?

Using multiple temperature sensors could be done, but would take a little extra circuitry.

I suppose a $5 Allegro sensor is not bad. The shunt wire would be cheaper though, and work just as well. The Allegro has the advantage that it is isolated so the current sensing part can go anywhere in the battery circuit. Motor current sensing would also be possible but more complex to deal with an AC signal.

An MCU based design would be very simple (other than the code). I'll leave that one up to the guys that are good at it.

OK on the servo specs. I think we can keep it within that range.
 
In my opinion, having a current limit function is a nice-to-have, but not a critical requirement. For me, there are three priorities, the hall-type throttle-to-pulse stream conversion, a 5V regulator good to at least 72V, and LVC interface similar to the ebrake line on a Clyte controller. Another idea is that if this is mounted close to the ESC, maybe it could hold the extra caps?

-- Gary
 
Miles said:
What's the advantage of a hall-type throttle, Gary?

They are cheaper, more commonly available, don't wear out, and in theory can be completely waterproofed.
 
fechter said:
Miles said:
What's the advantage of a hall-type throttle, Gary?

They are cheaper, more commonly available, don't wear out, and in theory can be completely waterproofed.

Hi,

Wouldn't it be better to design it to work with a motorcycle type mechanical (cable) throttle (cheaper, more commonly available, won't wear out, and will be completely waterproof)?
 
MitchJi said:
Hi,

Wouldn't it be better to design it to work with a motorcycle type mechanical (cable) throttle (cheaper, more commonly available, won't wear out, and will be completely waterproof)?

I think that is way overkill. I like the hall-types, simply as Richard says, because they are more readily available and seem pretty reliable.
 
Where can one get a decent hall-effect throttle? The only ones I've seen don't inspire confidence..... but if they're reliable in practice....

Would a circuit for a hall-effect throttle allow the use of a potentiometer type, such as the Magura, easily?
 
Miles said:
Would a circuit for a hall-effect throttle allow the use of a potentiometer type, such as the Magura, easily?

Yes. Depending on how I do the adjustment setup, it may be possible to use either type by adjusting. Worst case, you add a couple of small fixed resistors in series with ends of the pot and it will behave exactly like a hall throttle.

What MitchJi is talking about is called a pot box. These are common on full size motorcycles and cars. They tend to be a bit bulky and heavy compared to a regular hall throttle, but can be made quite waterproof. A cheap hall throttle can easily be made waterproof also, simply by sealing the hall sensor leads with epoxy or some other kind of sealant.

I got some really nice half grip ones when Vego went out of business, but I don't know where you can get them now. Some of them are really flimsy and not durable.

Where can you get a decent hall effect throttle?
 
fechter said:
Yes. Depending on how I do the adjustment setup, it may be possible to use either type by adjusting. Worst case, you add a couple of small fixed resistors in series with ends of the pot and it will behave exactly like a hall throttle.
Thanks, fechter.
 
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