I think it will prove to be less maintenance than Bafang, and with better support. I'm with you on the geared motors, went MAC and sold off my 3 BBSHD's. But when it comes to hills these mid drives are hard to beat.
I prefer a more refined fit and finish than hose clamps. Here is a very flexible and elegant solution from Wolf Tooth Components.
wgtnpete wrote: ↑Dec 01, 2017 10:02 pmSo I got PSWPower to send me a replacement metal gear on the chance that it was the gear that had stripped. However, I have opened up the unit following the guides that everyone has helpfully posted, but my motor does not slide out once the four screws at the bottom are out. It feels pretty stuck in there. I was originally trying to do this with the motor still on the bike but took it out in case it gave me better leverage, but still no movement.
Any tips from someone who has done this procedure?
I may be a bit late to help you with this but after you have removed the 4 (?) mounting screws for the motor turn the whole unit on it's side & with a flat punch or screw driver edge just tap against the top motor cover around the circumference until you get some wiggle room. Then it's just a case of lifting the whole assembly out. Just seems to be a really good tight fit on some units.
But not all version can run with a throttle. There is a specific controller and display needed.
The BB cold be used with zip ties too, but hanging a $500 battery with zip ties isn't all that exciting to me. Thanks for the post, I do like the idea of adding one of the Wolf rails on my down tube with rivnuts.
Not certainly in that way. I have a kit without the throttle support 6 pins. I added 2 wires from the controller to the display, + 5V and the input signal from the throttle and everything works.
Yes, you're looking at the right place, but you need to remove that brown plastic ring (dust seal).
I agree wit itchyfoot42 on the stainless steel zip ties. They are clean, add a little bling and are extremely strong. You don't need the $200 tool either. Just cut them off after tightening about 1/2-3/4 inch and then roll up the end with some 90 degree needle nose like a sardine can lid. They will hold over 150lbs. Here is where I get mine: http://amzn.to/2CTemKYitchyfoot42 wrote: ↑Jan 10, 2018 8:55 pmNot all zip ties are created equal. My battery is hung from the top of the seat frame using very heavy nylon zip ties and no problems in 8 months of use. Stainless steel zip ties are also available. May install a couple of those as I have had zip ties fail after a couple of years exposure to UV.
Dr.Electric wrote: ↑May 25, 2016 2:29 pmSo i finally had some time to test it some more.
Se added picture for clearance. I had to cut away almost all of the motor mount on the right side.
But the motor fits snugly.
With a freshly charged 10 s 5p Samsung 35e pack I have 550-620 watt under load.
The motor delivers this continually going uphill. Used 2Ah on 10 minutes and the motor was probably about 35 Celsius after this workout.
It has a quite nice engine sound. Almost like a little motor cycle engine.
Works fine with the alfine 8.
I changed some settings in the controller. Now is powers the bike until 35 km/h. But the power change setting didn't change the motor wattage.
The bad stuff:
I can feel a little wobble in the main bearing from the crank.
This is a little surprising!
I hope that the main bearing will last!
mscoot wrote: ↑Jul 05, 2017 3:18 pmOk, so you're interested. Here goes:mscoot wrote:I have this motor mounted on a Bullitt.matte2k wrote:Have some questions before ordering a kit for my Bullitt cargo.
How many milimeter more to the right was the chainline after installation than before the installation?
Is it possible to mount the lekkie bling ring direktly on the "spider"? to get a better chain line?
Hom long is the cables from the motor to the display and to the battery?
What connection is the cable from the motor to the battery. I hope bullett connector?
Are there any difference between the displays? What would you recommend and why?
Just so that you are warned, it does not fit out of the box.
However, it is a really nice motor though, and compliments the Alfine 8 or 11 IGH in a nice way if you have that. It's also very discrete once fitted to the Bullitt. I just hauled my entire family with beach stuff and all (a total of perhaps 250kg) all the way from the beach and 3 km long ride going up hill all the time. This was on a regular 250w EU-street legal motor, btw. It was slow at about 15-20 km/h, but the motor did fine without overheating.
To make it fit, you need to go at it with a dremel and trim off som bits of the motors casings. That's a 30 minute job if you've got the right bits, or perhaps half of that if you're sloppy.
The rear mounting point needs to be completely removed and grinded away off. If you're interested, I can give you some more details on where to cut and how to fit it.
There's also the issue about noise. Because the rear securing plate thingie is removed the motor pushes towards that big main centre tube on the frame. The slight hum of the motor is amplified by the frame and the cargo box in front unless you get creative with adding rubber o-rings and the like where it touches the frame.
Look at the two pictures. You have to remove the metal marked in red. Take care to not take too much, but just enough to clear the frame around the bottom bracket. Take away some, then test fit and repeat until your happy. To slide the motor in and out of the bottom bracket you need to unscrew the left side cover. Once the motor is seated properly, you can put the cover back on. Don't forget to blow away any metal debris that might have found it's way into the motor when the cover was off.
What's marked in blue are the three points where the motor touches the frame. You might want to put some sort of rubber o-ring or other soft material there to dampen the noise. (I forgot to add the second o-ring in the picture showing the front of motor). Especially the front part of the motor can be difficult to isolate properly from the frame. Put you could try without as well. It seems to me the newer versions of these motors are a fair bit more quiet.
To your other questions: the cables are more than long enough - no worries there. I think the small display is the nicest, Less cables, less fuss, but you loose the ability to charge your phone very, very slowly if that's your thing. With an IGH the chainline offset is negligible. I think it's off by about 1 cm. That doesn't bother me. Mine came with bullet connectors.
Atrihalov, It is good to know that is possible. Could you provide a picture of the controller and display with the wires you added for the throttle? I am sure a lot of us following this thread would like to copy what you did.
I don't want to go too far off topic but FYI, here is my favorite rivnut tool (and under $30). Unlike the gun type this can get up in the corners of bike triangles. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/t ... cfer=15526 Also, I use zinc plated steel rivnuts and don't worry about drilling holes in aluminum frames.tomjasz wrote: ↑Jan 12, 2018 3:39 amA decent rivnut tool is under $30. I have black bikes and cover black hose clamps with black shrink wrap. I do use added zip ties, but not as primary. Three of my 6 rides are like are loaned out for friends on rides. I like friend proof, one dropped battery gets expensive. I aint handsome and worry little about looks. <wink>
To clarify what Tom said: The TSDZ2 does NOT come standard with the wiring in the harness for the throttle and all indications are that if your TSDZ2 did not come with throttle from new, you cannot add one later unless you're as brave and adventuresome as Atrihalov is! Please, Atrihalov, tell us how you did it in pictures if you can!
Good to know, Chalo. Also, that same company sells the metric version as well:Chalo wrote: ↑Jan 13, 2018 4:18 amThat rivnut setter is equipped only for SAE sized fasteners, but fortunately that's OK!
#10-32 threads are so close to M5x0.8 that you can either put a 5mm fastener right in them or (more likely) open them up to metric size by running an M5 tap cleanly into the #10-32 hole.
RT, but we can add one with a new display and controller? Mine failed, but that was my understanding. Too cold to play bike mechanic so I'm waiting till spring. I am VERY interested in their in frame series...RTIII wrote: ↑Jan 13, 2018 1:18 pmTo clarify what Tom said: The TSDZ2 does NOT come standard with the wiring in the harness for the throttle and all indications are that if your TSDZ2 did not come with throttle from new, you cannot add one later unless you're as brave and adventuresome as Atrihalov is! Please, Atrihalov, tell us how you did it in pictures if you can!
No, depending on what you mean by "controller", I am pretty sure you cannot; the wires just are not there to do it with, and adding said wires is exactly what Atrihalov appears to have done - along with also some magical connection inside the controller that makes it work.