Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
This includes R/C motors, botttom bracket, roller and geared drives.
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Dirkro 10 W

- Posts: 82
- Joined: Jun 30 2018 8:18am
- Location: Bochum Germay
Post
by Dirkro » May 07 2019 10:34am
btslo wrote: ↑May 07 2019 4:46am
hefest wrote: ↑May 06 2019 4:31pm
btslo wrote: ↑May 06 2019 1:45pm
Can we jack up the cadence on the 48v with the opensource firmware? (I saw some options on the wiki but were "experimental", any side effects?)
Asked the same but it looks like there isn't. There are probably two options, one is to get just the 36V motor and replace existing one, another is to run dc-dc boost converter and raise the voltage to 52V.
See here:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... 11_Various
"Set (2) (EXPERIMENTAL) for the 48 V brushless motor, high cadence mode. Maybe not good for the motor, use at your own risk. Probably only suitable for the 36 V motor."
But not sure if anyone is using this.
I have installed 18.2 on a 36 V motor, The 48 V Option is NOT working on a 36 V engine with 36V batterie.
Option 2 Running well if you are a fan of high cardence.
Option 1 is prefect for me would guiess to have Support until 90 .
Regards
Dirk
Oh darling, this is not a new bike..

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btslo 10 W

- Posts: 75
- Joined: Apr 17 2019 8:55am
Post
by btslo » May 07 2019 12:02pm
Dirkro wrote: ↑May 07 2019 10:34am
btslo wrote: ↑May 07 2019 4:46am
hefest wrote: ↑May 06 2019 4:31pm
btslo wrote: ↑May 06 2019 1:45pm
Can we jack up the cadence on the 48v with the opensource firmware? (I saw some options on the wiki but were "experimental", any side effects?)
Asked the same but it looks like there isn't. There are probably two options, one is to get just the 36V motor and replace existing one, another is to run dc-dc boost converter and raise the voltage to 52V.
See here:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... 11_Various
"Set (2) (EXPERIMENTAL) for the 48 V brushless motor, high cadence mode. Maybe not good for the motor, use at your own risk. Probably only suitable for the 36 V motor."
But not sure if anyone is using this.
I have installed 18.2 on a 36 V motor, The 48 V Option is NOT working on a 36 V engine with 36V batterie.
Option 2 Running well if you are a fan of high cardence.
Option 1 is prefect for me would guiess to have Support until 90 .
Regards
Dirk
Yes, I'm interested in option 2 on a 48V motor. Should get higher cadence on this motor.
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elem 100 W

- Posts: 135
- Joined: May 26 2017 4:27pm
- Location: alpes maritimes
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Contact:
Post
by elem » May 08 2019 12:40am
I have installed 18.2 on a 36 V motor, The 48 V Option is NOT working on a 36 V engine with 36V batterie.
Option 2 Running well if you are a fan of high cardence.
Option 1 is prefect for me would guiess to have Support until 90 .
Regards
Dirk
Ok it seem it s what i have experimented,
i m using 12S batt on a 36V motor and haven t noticied highter cadence, btw i m not using option 2 "highter cadence mode "
i will try to activate this option,
someone said me that it was not necessary to activate "experimental mode " and using more voltage was suffisant to increase rpm .
RockRider 9.1 TSDZ2 open source firmware .
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jbalat 10 kW

- Posts: 605
- Joined: Nov 10 2012 11:50pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Post
by jbalat » May 08 2019 6:52am
hefest wrote: ↑May 05 2019 1:16pm
From what I gathered it's sprag clutch bearing issue. Main problem is that this bearing is also the one handling all the force applied by foot and motor. Replacement comes in form of main gear and bearing already fitted. According to the info I gathered, after the blue gear failure, this is second thing to go wrong wether it's manifesting as increased play in the right crank side or complete failure with slipping. With a little bit of tinkering the best option would be to replace original bearing which is rated for up to 110nm of torque with better quality bb30-1k-1 bearing rated for 140nm.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BB30-On ... 74129.html
Great find, looks like it should fit but do you know of anyone that has used this bearing with this motor ?
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hefest 100 W

- Posts: 154
- Joined: Jan 11 2019 4:55am
Post
by hefest » May 08 2019 11:34am
jbalat wrote: ↑May 08 2019 6:52am
hefest wrote: ↑May 05 2019 1:16pm
From what I gathered it's sprag clutch bearing issue. Main problem is that this bearing is also the one handling all the force applied by foot and motor. Replacement comes in form of main gear and bearing already fitted. According to the info I gathered, after the blue gear failure, this is second thing to go wrong wether it's manifesting as increased play in the right crank side or complete failure with slipping. With a little bit of tinkering the best option would be to replace original bearing which is rated for up to 110nm of torque with better quality bb30-1k-1 bearing rated for 140nm.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BB30-On ... 74129.html
Great find, looks like it should fit but do you know of anyone that has used this bearing with this motor ?
Yes, someone on German forum. This motor is sold in Germany under two different names, one is SFM DU250.
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sabergo 100 µW

- Posts: 9
- Joined: Feb 20 2019 1:46pm
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by sabergo » May 09 2019 2:22am
The SW102 news is exciting to say the least. It tics all of the boxes for me (small, bluetooth, easy to read in daylight and so on.
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Milodavies 1 µW

- Posts: 1
- Joined: May 09 2019 3:40am
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by Milodavies » May 09 2019 3:50am
Help please!
I'm trying to get my new TSDZ2 conversion to work and have so far failed.
The battery is ok (tested with a multimeter), but the display simply won't switch on (VLCD6). Has anyone experienced problems with this display? Or problems with a new motor sinply not working first time?
I am wondering whether it's most likely to be the display or the motor itself.
The obvious thing to do would be to try it with another display but nobody where I live sells them so I'd need to buy another one online which I'd rather not do.
Hoping it's just the display as that will be much easier to send back to China (Aliexpress) than the motor.
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btslo 10 W

- Posts: 75
- Joined: Apr 17 2019 8:55am
Post
by btslo » May 09 2019 5:15am
What voltage battery are you using?
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knutselmaaster 1 kW

- Posts: 343
- Joined: Apr 05 2014 6:50am
- Location: near Paris, France
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by knutselmaaster » May 09 2019 5:35am
Check the pins in the display connector, they bend easily.
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itchyfoot42 100 mW

- Posts: 38
- Joined: Mar 31 2017 1:47pm
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by itchyfoot42 » May 09 2019 1:45pm
My 48V TDSZ2 (2 years old) starts at 55.4 volts. May not if above that. I have a 52V battery and charge it to 80% to get 55.4V at the battery. Bad: I don't get to use the 55.4 to 58.4 capability of the battery. Good: it forces me to operate in the 50% to 80% of the battery capability. Battery will probably last a long time...
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bergerandfries 1 W

- Posts: 57
- Joined: Mar 02 2019 9:47pm
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by bergerandfries » May 09 2019 6:11pm
itchyfoot42 wrote: ↑May 09 2019 1:45pm
My 48V TDSZ2 (2 years old) starts at 55.4 volts. May not if above that. I have a 52V battery and charge it to 80% to get 55.4V at the battery. Bad: I don't get to use the 55.4 to 58.4 capability of the battery. Good: it forces me to operate in the 50% to 80% of the battery capability. Battery will probably last a long time...
How are you limiting it to 55.4v? This is not a standard charging voltage, so how are you keeping it to 55.4?
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rrc29 1 µW

- Posts: 3
- Joined: May 09 2019 4:55am
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by rrc29 » May 09 2019 8:20pm
Hey guys,
Had my first go making an e bike and I opted for the TSDZ2. I've run into some issues...
1 the cranks and pedals feel really wobbly and not very well secured have I put them on incorrectly?
2 the display is hard to read and flashy. Is there a way to reset it?
3 the throttle I bought doesn't seem to work. Does this just plug directly into the display?
Bought the motor from e bird store and the battery is from Hailong
Sorry if the answer to these questions is obvious, I'm not very savvy with bikes or electronics but just wanted to give it a go!
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mdodgethomas 1 µW

- Posts: 1
- Joined: May 11 2019 1:07am
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by mdodgethomas » May 11 2019 1:21am
I am having the same problem as Milodavies (above) with my 48V 750W install (cannot activate display), and I have successfully installed a 36V 500W unit on a different bike, so I understand how to do the general install properly, and I'm probably not overlooking anything obvious.
Does anyone here have a pin diagram for the cable between the motor and the display, so that I can check that power is being supplied to the display?
Any other diagnostic suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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continuous_square 1 µW

- Posts: 2
- Joined: May 12 2019 1:19pm
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by continuous_square » May 12 2019 1:29pm
Hi,
I hope someone can answer my question:
Does all Tongsheng TSDZ2 support coaster brakes, or are there differents versions of the motor?
(I need coaster brake support.)
Thanks in advance!
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el_proletario 10 mW

- Posts: 27
- Joined: Jan 18 2019 1:55pm
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by el_proletario » May 12 2019 3:56pm
continuous_square wrote: ↑May 12 2019 1:29pm
Hi,
I hope someone can answer my question:
Does all Tongsheng TSDZ2 support coaster brakes, or are there differents versions of the motor?
(I need coaster brake support.)
Thanks in advance!
There are 2 different versions.
You can buy the coaster brake version it should be stated by your seller.
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hefest 100 W

- Posts: 154
- Joined: Jan 11 2019 4:55am
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by hefest » May 12 2019 4:07pm
I've finally started installation of tsdz2.
Once I removed cranks I noticed that BB is actually pretty hard to turn. Lost almost 4 hours trying to remove the BB and it took a lot of force to do it. I had to use 1 meter long car lugnut removal tool to get it going. But luckily, tsdz2 is clearing the chainstay pretty well.
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bacman 10 µW

- Posts: 6
- Joined: Feb 26 2019 6:27pm
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by bacman » May 12 2019 9:08pm
Hi,
my TDSZ2 finally arrived. I am just surprised how stiff is the crank mechanism without any assistance - is this normal?
How stiff is suppose to be the sprag clutch compared to normal bike bottom bracket?
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jtsavola 1 mW

- Posts: 19
- Joined: Mar 23 2019 3:41am
Post
by jtsavola » May 14 2019 9:02am
eyebyesickle wrote: ↑Apr 12 2019 10:53pm
So remove the seal on the non drive side:
tsdz2nondriveseal.jpg
then remove the lock ring, and insert some identical washers until you can BARELY slide the lockring back down to snap on. In order to get it snug, I cannot place the lock ring with the pliers...I get it as far back as I can, then I have to slide it until it locks back into the groove, because you will need to apply some pressure if you put enough washers there to snug everything up...
tsdz2nondrivebehindseallockring.jpg
Washer size / part info to follow...
Think time to try remove crank axle wobbling. Any tips how to remove left side seal without destroying it? Seems in front is soft and thin rubber and behind it is something harder...
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Tucznik 1 µW

- Posts: 1
- Joined: May 14 2019 12:28pm
Post
by Tucznik » May 14 2019 12:39pm
Have anyone measured this distance?

I mean minimum distance between the round part that goes into bottom bracket to the rest of the engine.
My BB is:
PF41
92mm BB
outside diameter: 47,5 mm
Has anyone tested if you need some eccentric adapter to fit the engine or it will fit using concentric BB adapters?
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eyebyesickle 10 kW

- Posts: 732
- Joined: Apr 07 2015 9:28pm
- Location: Nashville
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by eyebyesickle » May 14 2019 7:34pm
jtsavola wrote: ↑May 14 2019 9:02am
eyebyesickle wrote: ↑Apr 12 2019 10:53pm
So remove the seal on the non drive side:
tsdz2nondriveseal.jpg
then remove the lock ring, and insert some identical washers until you can BARELY slide the lockring back down to snap on. In order to get it snug, I cannot place the lock ring with the pliers...I get it as far back as I can, then I have to slide it until it locks back into the groove, because you will need to apply some pressure if you put enough washers there to snug everything up...
tsdz2nondrivebehindseallockring.jpg
Washer size / part info to follow...
Think time to try remove crank axle wobbling. Any tips how to remove left side seal without destroying it? Seems in front is soft and thin rubber and behind it is something harder...
Remove the chain ring, and the lock ring behind it that holds the axle... Then push it out... The bearing behind the rubber seal will push it, so you don't have to tear it up with a screwdriver etc...
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eyebyesickle 10 kW

- Posts: 732
- Joined: Apr 07 2015 9:28pm
- Location: Nashville
Post
by eyebyesickle » May 14 2019 7:35pm
Tucznik wrote: ↑May 14 2019 12:39pm
Have anyone measured this distance?

I mean minimum distance between the round part that goes into bottom bracket to the rest of the engine.
My BB is:
PF41
92mm BB
outside diameter: 47,5 mm
Has anyone tested if you need some eccentric adapter to fit the engine or it will fit using concentric BB adapters?
I think I have discussed this with you since this post, but FYI for everybody, the smallest point (where the lip protrudes to fasten the mount plate) is about 8mm... And an eccentric 41mm adapter will also add about 1-2mm Max of wall thickness, FYI
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twiersum 1 mW

- Posts: 12
- Joined: Jan 18 2018 3:38pm
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by twiersum » May 14 2019 11:09pm
Does anyone have the input/output specs in V for the torque sensor?
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hefest 100 W

- Posts: 154
- Joined: Jan 11 2019 4:55am
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by hefest » May 16 2019 12:43pm
Last night finished the conversion but it was raining outside. Today finally made first test run. Oh man, it's much better than I expected. I imediatelly went to the 7% inclined 400 meters stretch to test and in turbo mode without much pushing it's a breeze.
Then I changed the limit to 40km/h and on a flat in 7th gear ( shimano nexus 8 ) achieved that speed in a matter of few seconds.
Motor is quiet enough, having in mind others complaints didn't expect it to be that quiet.
First negative thing I noticed is power delivery in speed and turbo mode. There is a lot of surging if you press the pedals even slightly harder. No wonder that blue gear is failing that much. I guess open source firmware is going on it sooner than I planned.
All in all, excellent little motor.