New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[feketehegyi]

That is crazy why the interest of such idea? I must say that locally we have a very slow old train in parallel to a road, connecting 2

Nothing special. It was on my bucket list. I'm happy that you've enjoyed it.

[Waynemarlow]

Anyone found a source for the thin ring seal that sits in the groove of the CSK30 bearing under the spider? I broke mine today and whilst i've temporarily fixed it with a dab of superglue I'd like to find a source for replacement. CSK30's with the groove don't appear to be supplied with the ring seal from what I can see.

Do you really need an O Ring. I've been fitting non grooved CSK30's and simply putting a very light ring of silicone gasket seal around the outer part of the bearing where it meets the spider.

I rebuilt one some time back that had had water damage and simply put a heavy layer of waterproof grease in there. I took the spider off the other day and it was still intact and no water ingress after a year of some pretty heavy UK mud and puddles.

[beemac]

Anyone found a source for the thin ring seal that sits in the groove of the CSK30 bearing under the spider? I broke mine today and whilst i've temporarily fixed it with a dab of superglue I'd like to find a source for replacement. CSK30's with the groove don't appear to be supplied with the ring seal from what I can see.

Do you really need an O Ring. I've been fitting non grooved CSK30's and simply putting a very light ring of silicone gasket seal around the outer part of the bearing where it meets the spider.

I rebuilt one some time back that had had water damage and simply put a heavy layer of waterproof grease in there. I took the spider off the other day and it was still intact and no water ingress after a year of some pretty heavy UK mud and puddles.

Hi -thanks very much. I did consider whether I could replace it with a ring of silicone or similar so good to know there are alternative solutions that have worked - especially in UK weather!

[ilu]

Make sure your battery cutoff voltage is set correctly.
Also are you talking seconds or minutes?

i believe it is set properly for the 52V battery (Samsung 35E 14S 4P), anyways, I had like an 80% charge when this was happening.

last leg coming home today, I noticed that sometimes 'motor power' would flatline at 180W or some other kind of random value, yet I could intentionally modulate my "human power" all over the place, from less than 100W to around 220 or 240W. then suddenly, I'd be getting the right pookah for the power assist level I'd set (I customized the power assist levels to just 10 rather than 20 and have it set so 4 is a good happy medium, 5 or 6 is extra boost up a hill when I'm tired, and 2 or 3 is good for the flats when I don't want to push my speed too hard. 3 gives me motor power about 2X human power, 4 is more like 3X, and 5 is more like 4X, all powers in watts, and no, I've not calibrated the torque sensor, just using the defaults there the way it came from eco-ebike, who programmed it for me.

as far as how long it misbehaves, its kinda random. sometimes its 3 or 4 or 5 full turns of the cranks, sometimes a fair bit more (10-15 full turns at maybe 60 or 75 cadence). carrying a 1L Hydraflask, and a 9 lb Kryptonite chain my pannier today, climbing the 8% grade I live up was a beating when the boost cut out. I'm not sure I can see how it could be an external wiring issue, as the display never reset, the speed and cadence and human power were always reading correctly.

Did you figure out what was the cause of this problem? I'm currently having very similar behaviour with my motor.

[Andrew707]

Hello,

I'm doing my second TSDZ2 build and once again I have a problem securing the motor to the frame.
My bike has internally routed cables which come out at the bottom next to the bottom bracket. There's additional piece of aluminum welded at the bottom of down tube where the opening for cables is. The motor barely fit in (but it did fit!). Now I have to secure it with two bolts and aluminum wedge at the back. The problem is that because of down tube opening I can't move motor to the left at all therefore the aluminum wedge doesn't fit in. What would you suggest to do in this case? What if I don't mount the wedge at all? If I understand correctly it should prevent the motor from going to the upper left. In my case the motor is already leaning against the frame opening at the bottom. Do you think it would be strong enough to hold the motor forces? Am I risking damaging my frame?

Here are some pictures so it's a bit easier to understand what I'm talking about: https://imgur.com/a/LmzN9kx

[casainho]

Hello,

I'm doing my second TSDZ2 build and once again I have a problem securing the motor to the frame.
My bike has internally routed cables which come out at the bottom next to the bottom bracket. There's additional piece of aluminum welded at the bottom of down tube where the opening for cables is. The motor barely fit in (but it did fit!). Now I have to secure it with two bolts and aluminum wedge at the back. The problem is that because of down tube opening I can't move motor to the left at all therefore the aluminum wedge doesn't fit in. What would you suggest to do in this case? What if I don't mount the wedge at all? If I understand correctly it should prevent the motor from going to the upper left. In my case the motor is already leaning against the frame opening at the bottom. Do you think it would be strong enough to hold the motor forces? Am I risking damaging my frame?

Here are some pictures so it's a bit easier to understand what I'm talking about: https://imgur.com/a/LmzN9kx

You need to be creative!! See the creativity for some full suspension bicycles - How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle:

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ ... on-bicycle

[ilu]

What would you suggest to do in this case? What if I don't mount the wedge at all? If I understand correctly it should prevent the motor from going to the upper left. In my case the motor is already leaning against the frame opening at the bottom. Do you think it would be strong enough to hold the motor forces? Am I risking damaging my frame?

Here are some pictures so it's a bit easier to understand what I'm talking about: https://imgur.com/a/LmzN9kx

In this case I would simply fix a steel corner support like this attached to similar but shorter bolts as in your last picture. Of course you may need to drill bigger holes and use washers to get a proper alignment for the piece.

[Andrew707]

You need to be creative!! See the creativity for some full suspension bicycles - How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ ... on-bicycle

Wow this is really creative!

In this case I would simply fix a steel corner support like this attached to similar but shorter bolts as in your last picture. Of course you may need to drill bigger holes and use washers to get a proper alignment for the piece.

Thanks for an advice! I've bought some corner support and washers. Will try to make this work. Will post picture once done!

[Heisenberg60]

Hey guy`s,

i`ve a question about the TSDZ.
first of all, im now on 800km with my drive and i`m very pleased with it.
I use it mostly for commute to work and trails in the woods/fields, no real problems so far
I made the following changes:

-OSF
-replaced the seals on the axis with sealed ballbearings to reduce transverse load on the sprague-clutch.
-applied thermal pads arround the motor
-applied new lube on all gears and seals.

But here`s the problem:
Some thing i noticed is, that the battery-throttle onsets very early.
@50% Battery i just get 50% of my max. power output, is this normal ?
i thought that lithium-batteries usually keep their power output constant until arroud ~ 30%, a linear power reduction seems a little unrealistic. I have an LG-battery pack, so i assume that the cells sould be quite ok.

I think it might be one of the following points:
-there is an option in the OSF which i didn`t set up correctly
-the BMS of the battery
-contact resistance from the battery to the motor

has anyone made similar experience and might be able to help ?

[casainho]

Hey guy`s,

i`ve a question about the TSDZ.
first of all, im now on 800km with my drive and i`m very pleased with it.
I use it mostly for commute to work and trails in the woods/fields, no real problems so far
I made the following changes:

-OSF
-replaced the seals on the axis with sealed ballbearings to reduce transverse load on the sprague-clutch.
-applied thermal pads arround the motor
-applied new lube on all gears and seals.

But here`s the problem:
Some thing i noticed is, that the battery-throttle onsets very early.
@50% Battery i just get 50% of my max. power output, is this normal ?
i thought that lithium-batteries usually keep their power output constant until arroud ~ 30%, a linear power reduction seems a little unrealistic. I have an LG-battery pack, so i assume that the cells sould be quite ok.

I think it might be one of the following points:
-there is an option in the OSF which i didn`t set up correctly
-the BMS of the battery
-contact resistance from the battery to the motor

has anyone made similar experience and might be able to help ?

After you install our OpenSource firmware v1.1.0, enable the Field Weakening feature you will feel a big boost on the bicycle wheel!!

[Adarsh881]

For many of us, the time has come for a good cleaning and refurbishment of our TSDZ2. This often involves the replacement of different bearings.
Hope this might help you.

I've replaced all the bearings with proper german ones except for the blue gear for I could not get them out without damaging the blue gear...is there any way to get them out without using a press? Thanks for any advice

[Heisenberg60]

After you install our OpenSource firmware v1.1.0, enable the Field Weakening feature you will feel a big boost on the bicycle wheel!!

Ah nice i didn`t know the 1.1 Version is out now.
I will flash it later and see if it helps.

Anyway i have field weakening active at the moment (V1.0-light fix), but i still have the early power reduction.
might there be other facotrs ? as i mentioned 50% power reduction (750Wmax -> 350Wmax) @ 50% battery seems a little unrealistic.

[casainho]

Anyway i have field weakening active at the moment (V1.0-light fix), but i still have the early power reduction.
might there be other facotrs ? as i mentioned 50% power reduction (750Wmax -> 350Wmax) @ 50% battery seems a little unrealistic.

First look at the PWM value that must be the max value possible, is it the max value when you see the 750W? and on 350W?

[Heisenberg60]

First look at the PWM value that must be the max value possible, is it the max value when you see the 750W? and on 350W?

yes it was the max PWM-value for both readings.

but never mind i just updated on the new 1.1 version and realized that the low-voltage-cutoff is set to 42V by default.
I think that i didn`t change the value after the last update, so most proably the low-voltage-cutoff was the culprit for the missing power. Now I`ve set it to 40V and get arround 600W at max PWM and ~50% charge, i will keep an eye on it during next few battery-cycles.

thank you anyway, it`s realy nice to see that the community is still active and so helpful

[casainho]

First look at the PWM value that must be the max value possible, is it the max value when you see the 750W? and on 350W?

yes it was the max PWM-value for both readings.

but never mind i just updated on the new 1.1 version and realized that the low-voltage-cutoff is set to 42V by default.
I think that i didn`t change the value after the last update, so most proably the low-voltage-cutoff was the culprit for the missing power. Now I`ve set it to 40V and get arround 600W at max PWM and ~50% charge, i will keep an eye on it during next few battery-cycles.

thank you anyway, it`s realy nice to see that the community is still active and so helpful

It is really nice when the problems can be solved!

[Wapous]

I've replaced all the bearings with proper german ones except for the blue gear for I could not get them out without damaging the blue gear...is there any way to get them out without using a press? Thanks for any advice
[/quote]

This is the way I do replace the blue gear clutch bearing.

[feketehegyi]

[Andrew707]

You need to be creative!! See the creativity for some full suspension bicycles - How to install TSDZ2 on a full suspension bicycle:
https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ ... on-bicycle

Wow this is really creative!

In this case I would simply fix a steel corner support like this attached to similar but shorter bolts as in your last picture. Of course you may need to drill bigger holes and use washers to get a proper alignment for the piece.

Thanks for an advice! I've bought some corner support and washers. Will try to make this work. Will post picture once done!

Corner brace worked pretty well!

[LeftCoastNurd]

on my hybrid, I had to loosen everything up quite a bit, then pre-thread that torque bolt and block loosely in place, THEN snug things down incrementally. when the motor was in the proper position I could not possibly get the torque block in place, but successively tightening things and it all went together correctly.

if it hadn't worked, I'd intended to get a block of aluminum, and machine a custom torque block.

[Andrew707]

I installed OSF on VLCD5 and just went out for a test drive and looks like I have another problem. Speed is not shown and E02 is blinking. When I turned off "Set parameters on startup" option in configurator, E02 is gone but speed is not working. I noticed that at the very beginning motor is not working and then 99.9 shows up on the screen for a few seconds and then goes back to 00.0 and then the motor starts working and works fine until the next full stop. My other bike sometimes used to show 99.9 when speed sensor was too close to the magnet but the motor kept working fine all the time as far as I remember. Any ideas what could be wrong?

[Elinx]

I installed OSF on VLCD5 ...... Any ideas what could be wrong?

Nothing with v20 b1.
Because the display shows 99,9% (or less) batteriecharge (instead of 0 km/h) has influence on the odometer that will be compensated the first minutes after start biking.
Till the counter has done a full compensation, the speed shows 0 km/h.
If you don't care the odometer value, you can uncheck "odometer compensation" on the "basic settings" tab.

More info you can find in the "display operation manual" (page 2)
______________________________

Attention, the display always interprets the data received as a speed and consequently increases the odometer, even when the bike is stationary.
By enabling the parameter ENABLE_ODOMETER_COMPENSATION in the config.h file (default enabled), it is possible to recover the kilometers added and not traveled, during this operation the speed displayed while driving remains at zero until the kilometers are equalized
______________________________

[Andrew707]

Nothing with v20 b1.
...

That's fine if the speed doesn't show up for a few minutes. But my main concern right now is that once I start pedaling motor is not engaged until a few seconds later. Once it start working it works fine but after a full stop it takes a few seconds again for it start working again. Never happened to my other bike with OSF and VCD5

[Elinx]

... my main concern right now is that once I start pedaling motor is not engaged until a few seconds later............

I had understand it was only the zero speed reading after a full stop.
For fast start try enabling "Start-up assistance without pedaling"
"Assist without pedaling threshold" between 10 and 30.
"Pedal torque adc offset adjust" 5 and 10.

You find more about these settings inside the configuration manual page 2/3

[mbrusa]

... my main concern right now is that once I start pedaling motor is not engaged until a few seconds later............

Try increasing the value of "Motor ramp down additional".