I have been commuting with mine (Melbourne), and been using it on Tour setting. Occasionally on Speed. Almost never on Eco. For pulling away, i have been a little careful not to have my pedal at high 2 o'clock position (which is my habit from years and years of commuting and other cycling), or if I have, not to pull away with a lot of torque on the cranks, because the motor controller multiplies that torque.echew wrote: ↑Jun 04, 2018 10:10 pmHmm, yeah, it's getting harder and harder to get in now. I was lucky that I got my residency before they upped the requirements (I'm from the UK originally).
Anyhoo, just had my maiden voyage around the block with the TSDZ2! Very cool!
I seem to only be able to get up to around 30 km/h using just the throttle which surprised me a little as I'm on the flat and only weigh 72kg. But it could be due to a number of things: I have it on a MTB with knobbly tyres and the battery is being used straight from receiving it in the post this morning.
Got up to over 40 km/h when giving it a little pedal. Next test is to take it up a huge hill and say hi to my friends this arvo!
Still not sure if I've got the hang of using the gears with this thing. I'm very worried I'm going to mash the blue cog (although I have the bronze in the post). It seems overkill to drop down to my lowest gear before starting from rest as the first 3 or 4 gears seem so super easy and I hardly get moving. And then I'm wondering whether if I stop pedaling and the noise of the motor stops, is that sufficient for me to then change multiple gears at once and start pedaling again?
I'm even wondering if it's ok to start from standing in the highest gear if you're very gentle at the beginning?
Thanks, good advice to not crank too hard. Have to say though, I'm going to find it hard not going straight to the fastest setting - I've been feeling the need for speed as soon as I got onto the bike!jur wrote: ↑Jun 04, 2018 10:39 pmI have been commuting with mine (Melbourne), and been using it on Tour setting. Occasionally on Speed. Almost never on Eco. For pulling away, i have been a little careful not to have my pedal at high 2 o'clock position (which is my habit from years and years of commuting and other cycling), or if I have, not to pull away with a lot of torque on the cranks, because the motor controller multiplies that torque.
So the short answer is, just pull away a little gently, in Tour setting, and a bit more gently in Speed. In Eco, never mind, pull away normally.
This is really going to take some adjusting I think - I'm so used to just ticking over on the highest gear and tickling the brakes as required when going through a pedestrianized area. And then sometimes being so lazy that I don't even change down before cranking hard to get going again.
Have got the battery on charge now. Any idea how long a full charge usually takes?John and Cecil wrote: ↑Jun 04, 2018 10:41 pmI think ours is about the same - 15mph flats and 20mph with minimal pedaling. However battery voltage makes a huge difference, and the difference between say 56v and 50v is substantial. You should probably get a little more speed with a full charged battery as Cecil, his carrier, and I weigh in at maybe 100kg.
That's good to hear. My next issue is going to be how to control all of my reckless friends who, no doubt, will want to have a blast on it as soon as they see it in action!
Well isn't he a handsome fellow! I feel like I should find myself a navigator too...
Now that would be a sight for sore eyes...
That would be great, right?? No they are not. But hurzhurz is getting more and more knowledge and I hope we can get it...
Good work Casainho and also hurzhurz.casainho wrote: ↑Jun 05, 2018 5:15 amTSDZ2 original firmware has a hidden assist level and I just added it to KT-LCD3 (thanks to hurzhurz!!) -- now I can choose between 0 up to 5 on assist level.
Here are the assist level average current:
0 - motor disable
1 - 4 amps
2 - 6 amps
3 - 12 amps
4 - 18 amps
5 - 18 amps and torque sensor more sensible
The new assist level 1, I think is good for the ones that has a light ebike, slim tires and use small energy. Good for use with a small and light battery.
The firmware for KT-LCD3 to be used with TSDZ2 has the following unique advanced features over TSDZ2 original LCD:
- 5 assist levels (1 extra level)
- battery voltage (volts)
- motor electric power (watts)
- rider human power measured on pedals (watts)
- motor/battery current (amps)
- trip total in Watts/hour
- rider force on the pedals (Nm)
- pedals cadence (RPM)
- brakes state
casainho wrote: ↑Jun 06, 2018 6:11 amGot an experimental code working near what is expected - I will explain:
On purpose, I put an wrong angle value at startup and I see my motor asking to much current when I increase the speed. When I put a correct value of 0, it simple don't ask much current is about 0.6 amps on full speed and I think that is because it has low current/load.
So I put an angle of 10: #define MOTOR_ROTOR_OFFSET_ANGLE 10
Here the the experimental code, that calcs Iwl and V, than it does asinf and convert to angle values. Yes, I think some part of the code may not doing correct angle conversion.... can you please review?
The code prints the variables and also puts the negative value to ui8_angle_correction, that is used to correct the angle.
I did 2 tests, by keeping the ui8_angle_correction always at 0 (angle offset error of 10) or by apply the value calculated. I show t
he graphs and logged as also videos, where you can see the power supply current for each case and listen the motor noise.
FOC calculation disabled:
Code: Select all
ui32_l_x1000000 = 135; ui32_temp = ui32_w_angular_velocity_x10 * ui32_l_x1000000; ui32_temp *= ui32_i_phase_current_x2; ui16_iwl = (ui32_temp / 2000000); f_temp = asinf((float) ui16_iwl / (float) ui16_e_phase_voltage) * 5732.0; ui16_temp = f_temp; printf ("%d,%d,%d,%d\n", ui16_e_phase_voltage, ui16_i_phase_current, ui16_motor_speed_erps, ui16_temp/100); ui8_angle_correction = - (ui16_temp/100);
- speed ERPS = 450
- phase current = 3.5A
FOC calculation enabled:
- speed ERPS = 350
- phase current = 0.5A
FOC calculation disabled
FOC calculation enabled
FOC calculation disabled
casainho wrote: ↑Jun 06, 2018 12:15 pmI tested again just to make sure it is working. This time I setup the initial angle as zero and the adjust FOC algorithm will put a negative angle value. I also decided to low pass filter the FOC calculated angle.
Also I did another test, I increased the the lab power supply voltage from ~36V up to ~48V and the phase voltage increased from 22V up to 34V (duty_cycle was kept constant but lower than 100%).
Here the results:
- 22V, I phase 1A, 350ERPS, FOC angle 7.5 degrees --> 16ERPS / volts
- 34V, I phase 1A, 525ERPS (4200RPMs), FOC angle 10.5 degrees --> 16ERPS / volts
So, the speed scaled as expected and FOC had to adjust the angle by +3 degrees. Also the speed is near the motor rated 4000RPMs (motor has 8 pole pairs).
I tried to decrease the speed of control loop to something like 50ms and I saw motor kind in oscillations, as I expected. Lowered to the 5ms and works as seen on the previous videos. I am not sure it is at 5ms because control loop code may take more time than that...
Next time I would like to improve this code, starting by measuring the time it takes to process and maybe use a look up table for asin() instead of using that float version...
Had the same impression, seems like the TSDZ2 is made for casual, laid back riders only.The torque sensor is really simple. I have nothing to compare it with, so perhaps they all are more or less the same in all torque sensing mid drives. Too me it seems to sense the difference between light pedaling and very light pedaling, sort of. But no difference between hard and very hard. Maybe with some clever programming it could be made to perform differently, but tongsheng seem very reluctant to let anyone but resellers use that programming tool.
Anyway, I recently took out the torque/cadence sensor mechanism when replacing my old worn out one-way bearing. The sensor is fixed with one small screw and sits on tube that surrounds the crank arm axle. It looks to me like it measures the very slight mechanical flex in that tube when you are pushing on the pedals. I thought perhaps it can be tweaked by loosening or tightening that screw and maybe moving it a little? I didn't try, but it would be interesting to know how or if tweaking the sensors positition would change the way it responds.