That looks like a very tight fit! I'm wondering if there are some subtle differences between the frames that lets the tsdz2 only fit som Bullitts? Let's hope not. The welds on your frame look very big. Perhaps you could make it fit by carefully knocking a few dents in your frame? Or maybe not on such a nice new bike.thomfellow wrote: ↑Jan 12, 2018 11:13 amI purchased a Bullitt in December (2017) and ordered a TSDZ2 a few days later and after my first installation attempt I don't think it's possible to use these two together anymore. I'm not sure if I'm missing something or if the design of one or both have changed such that, even with significant grinding, they will not be compatible. I may be overly pessimistic.
I'm curious if anybody that's done this recognizes how tight this looks and thinks I'm just not visualizing it properly. To my eyes it doesn't look like I can remove enough material to make it clear. I may make another attempt this weekend. (see attachments)
I see that @Dr.Electric says they had to remove nearly all of the mount, as well as is illustrated by @mscoot.
Wondering if the clearance I'm seeing looks familiar matte2k@? The photo you show seems to have more space than mine.
thank you wakyct, but using the translator is very imprecise result, but thank you very much for your interest and responsewakyct wrote: ↑Jan 16, 2018 1:18 ampamlico, maybe this helps, the XH-18 manual https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mriV76 ... sp=sharing
The extra photos and measurements would be amazing, but don't waste too much time for my sake. I think your mention of having to take out some of the holes and area around the securing plate on the left side might make a difference. I'm definitely going to play with it again. I don't think I can stomach bashing up the frame to make it fit (if no luck, we'll probably move on to a Pendix system)mscoot wrote: ↑Jan 15, 2018 2:58 pmAnyway, my frame is an older one from around 2010. After completely grinding away the rear mount of the motor and also grinding away the holes for the securing plate on the left side, it will slide right in and I can wiggle the motor back and forth a couple of mm. There's even a bit of room left for a piece of rubber.
Tomorrow I'll be doing a major overhaul of the motor after my torque sensor imploded and caused havoc to the internals of the motor. I'll take some pictures of how the motor sits on frame. If you want me to take some measurements, let me know and I could try to do that as well.
To me it looks like my bb-tube is slightly lower than yours. Those welds where quite big! Here's what mine looks like. I don't think you can make the Tsdz2 fit, unfortunately.thomfellow wrote: ↑Jan 16, 2018 7:34 am
The extra photos and measurements would be amazing, but don't waste too much time for my sake. I think your mention of having to take out some of the holes and area around the securing plate on the left side might make a difference. I'm definitely going to play with it again. I don't think I can stomach bashing up the frame to make it fit (if no luck, we'll probably move on to a Pendix system)
I was thinking the same thing about the welds looking at the photos of other Bullitts, especially the bottom plate welded at the front of the BB, not just larger welds, but the position is lower and closer to the rear. It may be a thicker plate, or it's just this batch that's aligned that way, but it's really tight.
It's a bit tricky. It sits behind the main gear wheel assembly and extends into the bottom bracket tube. There are three tiny springs that will pop out of its seats when you knock out the sensor from the left side. Be sure to grab them before they disappear. Other than that you can follow the procedure in the workshop manual here:
Yes, you appear to have a grand canyon by comparison. Time to sell on the TSDZ2 I suspect. :-/
Despite my broken torque sensor, I still think this system can do some serious work. My broken torque sensor was an "early" spare part (faulty from the start) that was replaced under warranty because we thought the original was broken (it turned out to be a bad connection somewhere else).
I have done a visual inspection of the connections and the wires and haven't seen anything amiss. I have XT90s on the battery/motor connection. Will see about taking the motor apart to check for obvious issues. I was thinking it could be a battery issue as I had left the bike in the garage for about 2 weeks over Christmas then rode it to work (battery had been left half charged). While the display didnt cut out at all, I got absolutely no assist, no matter what level I selected. When I charged the battery that day it all came alive again, and the ride home was fine, but it did make me concerned.AWD wrote: ↑Jan 18, 2018 6:19 pmHave you taken apart and inspected all the connectors? There is a chance the first time you got the motor hot it might have melted one of the outside wires as it sounds like what you are dealing with is a bad connection more than anything else to me. Whether is it at the connectors, in the motor or controller it is a cheap place to start. Could be your battery connection also. I highly recommend spraying a product like T9 Boeshield at all the wires and connections you inspect.
That what I thought the issue was the other day, but today it was cool and the motor still cut out, and only after a short period of use. I charged up the battery at work and then rode the bike around the basement carpark and the display cut out after a minute (2 loops of the space).Daytriker wrote: ↑Jan 18, 2018 9:25 pmSince you are riding in 29 degree weather with the motor under load is it possible the motor is overheating? I would also check the actual voltage of your battery when it cuts out. If the voltage drops with the motor overheating & then starts up once everything cools down that might be your answer.