New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
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kalleg   1 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by kalleg » Aug 10 2020 12:11pm

Elinx wrote:
Aug 10 2020 12:06pm
kalleg wrote:
Aug 10 2020 9:35am
..... fixing the motor.....
A mount on the seat tube is maybe possible.
Oh cool! Thank you! Looks sturdy!

sysrq   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by sysrq » Aug 10 2020 12:43pm

vass wrote:
Aug 10 2020 7:03am
sysrq wrote:
Aug 06 2020 1:05pm
vass wrote:
Aug 06 2020 10:33am
Little review off my TSDZ2 (48v motor 52V battery)

With the OSF, thermal pads and temp sensor is a damn good motor (never used it on oem form :mrgreen: )
I have ridden some bosh and yamaha (entry level ones) and the TSDZ2 is in my opinion better and more powerfull (and with the osf way more flexible) .
Its so nice that i wanted only to comute with my old mtb and now i am buying a nice used full suspension because it got me hooked again on offroad bike riding (i have a enduro motorcycle so i like this stuff, but it this i can ride places i cant with it, also my hardtaill sucks on single tracks and it killing my back :D )

So if you have an old bike and can solder and use a computer (or have a friend that can do it) go for it :)
36V version doesn't seem so powerful. Insufficient thermal management doesn't help for continuous loads either.
Never rode a 36V one but i guess it wil be away less powerfull, mine is configured to be able to go to 17A 750W on peak.
Thermal mods and temp sensor make it safe to use this kind of power.
I rode some bosh and yamaha bikes and say my tsdz2 is more powerfull , altought those engines are more "refined" (but i love to be able to change whatever i want on the fw level and i need to ride less and try to fine tune my motor :mrgreen: )
So far 36V 350W version results in 15.10 Amps peak and 520 Watts peak. Not sure about the actual output.

kalleg   1 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by kalleg » Aug 10 2020 1:15pm

Elinx wrote:
Aug 10 2020 12:06pm
kalleg wrote:
Aug 10 2020 9:35am
..... fixing the motor.....
A mount on the seat tube is maybe possible.
Maybe if I find the right size and use a spacer?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/urxoqg30ywntg ... 1.jpg?dl=0

Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 10 2020 2:37pm

kalleg wrote:
Aug 10 2020 1:15pm

Maybe if I find the right size and use a spacer?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/urxoqg30ywntg ... 1.jpg?dl=0
That mount looks fragile to me this way, because the black plate can still rotate.
It is the same idea as this, but there it is mounted on the seat tube to the backside of the motor with a metal bar .

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 10 2020 6:08pm

famichiki wrote:
Aug 09 2020 6:43pm
Does anyone know if we should lube the torque sensor? The disc surfaces are clean but have some some kind of tacky, waxy feel to them so maybe there was something applied from the factory that has dried up? Also how about on the central disc (teflon?), it looks like it has some dirty grease on there and I think it contacts the case when installed.
From what I can find, the sensor disc surfaces do not need any lubrication.

There are also 2 x teflon washers around the shaft which have grease on them in my previous photo, but I think that grease has spun out of the unsealed roller bearing. There was no grease between the washers, only on the outsides and mainly on the one against the case. Adding grease between the washers creates substantial drag.

For reference, the washers are ID 28mm x OD 51mm. The one against the case is thicker at 0.5mm, the other against the torque sensor is 0.4mm.

Where the case side one of mine touches the case it's a bit scuffed, and the torque sensor side one has some kind of minor defect.
Attachments
teflon-washers.jpg
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ilu   10 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by ilu » Aug 11 2020 2:24am

0xdeadbeef wrote:
Aug 10 2020 9:24am
Hello all,

Just got my TSDZ2 installed and it's wonderful. However, as the autumn is soon arriving, I need headlights for the bike. I have understood that the Y-splitter from speed sensor provides 6 V for headlights. I ended up buying a pair of these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000657217552.html

I don't want to ruin my battery so I'd like to ask a bit help with them.

1) They seem to draw 10W, is this too much for the battery, especially with 6V?

2) If I install them in parallel, that should provide 6 V for both?

3) How do I turn headlights on/off from the VLCD5?

I didn't find answer from google, so I'd really appreciate any help!
1. It's too much for the motor controller or the wires for 6V output which are very thin. Use a relay or another switch to turn on the lights and connect them straight to the battery.

3. Press the light switch.

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 11 2020 5:28am

I sleeved the axle non-drive side bearing with 0.05mm (0.002") brass shim sheet. It fits nicely now. It may have been possible to fit a very slightly thicker sheet, but the next size up I have is 0.076mm (0.003") which was too thick. The shim washers fit over and I'm able to put the circlip on.

I've replaced the axle bearing with a SKF 61902-2RS1. However the factory bearing is a C&U brand 61902RS, which from what I can find is a respectable name-brand Chinese bearing company.

Also looking at the metal gear I'll be fitting... The ball bearing is too loose in the gear for my liking, I can slide it in and out by hand. The bearing outer race is able to spin inside the gear (the original plastic gear isn't great either). I'll apply Loctite 641 to this, it's a medium strength removable retaining compound. The other popular compound 648 seems like overkill and may be impossible to remove in the future if the need arises. The roller clutch bearing was dry and I've applied SKF LGMT 2 grease to that.

I guess I could just use the retaining compound on the axle too, but the bearing fit is very loose and I think it will be difficult to align it correctly. I may put some only under the sleeve instead to hold that onto the shaft.
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Last edited by famichiki on Aug 11 2020 5:32am, edited 1 time in total.

0xdeadbeef   1 µW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by 0xdeadbeef » Aug 11 2020 5:32am

ilu wrote:
Aug 11 2020 2:24am
1. It's too much for the motor controller or the wires for 6V output which are very thin. Use a relay or another switch to turn on the lights and connect them straight to the battery.
Thanks for the reply. Although I am not sure if I want to go that route, at least yet. I'd prefer to use the controller for the lights, but if 6V headlights aren't suitable I might have to wire them separately.

Can you or anyone else recommend (preferably somewhat powerful) headlights that are compatible through the motor controller?

Again thanks, you saved me a lot of worry and probably fried cables as well!

Waynemarlow   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Waynemarlow » Aug 11 2020 6:14am

kalleg wrote:
Aug 10 2020 1:15pm
Maybe if I find the right size and use a spacer?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/urxoqg30ywntg ... 1.jpg?dl=0
I'm not sure why we have this repeated idea that you need some form retention on the motor. We run 650 W on extremely arduous mountain bike terrain doing about 1000m of climb in a couple of hours, there is far more torque applied in constant on off than ever road use will do. Do we need to have a retainer, nope never ever had a motor move on any of the 6 bikes we have fitted out ( all full suspension ).

Doohickey   1 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Doohickey » Aug 11 2020 8:57am

0xdeadbeef wrote:
Aug 11 2020 5:32am
ilu wrote:
Aug 11 2020 2:24am
1. It's too much for the motor controller or the wires for 6V output which are very thin. Use a relay or another switch to turn on the lights and connect them straight to the battery.
Thanks for the reply. Although I am not sure if I want to go that route, at least yet. I'd prefer to use the controller for the lights, but if 6V headlights aren't suitable I might have to wire them separately.

Can you or anyone else recommend (preferably somewhat powerful) headlights that are compatible through the motor controller?

Again thanks, you saved me a lot of worry and probably fried cables as well!
6 volt lights are perfect, the problem is that the lights output power wire can only give a few watts - i.e. it's capable of giving enough power for lights "to be seen" but not enough for lights "to see". 10w lights will draw too much power and not work (or fry the motor controller). What the other poster is suggesting is that you wire a relay to the "lights" wire, and then the relay switches the actual lights on and off. Them you can use lights which take battery voltage directly (i.e. super powerful motorcycle lights), or you use a dc-dc converter module which takes the battery voltage and steps it down to 6v.

You'll still use the lights button on the display to switch on and off - just that the motor controller switches the relay on and off (which takes less than a watt), which then switches the actual power to the lights.

0xdeadbeef   1 µW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by 0xdeadbeef » Aug 11 2020 12:22pm

I noticed my battery mount is kinda fiddly, it moves way too much when riding on bumpy terrain to the point I had to secure the whole battery additionally with cable ties - not an ideal solution because I'd like to remove the battery every now and then.

I came across the following type of mount, where the zip ties go through a plastic bracket which itself mounts to the battery mount. Anyone know where I could find those or what are they called?
Attachments
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famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 12 2020 2:40am

0xdeadbeef wrote:
Aug 11 2020 12:22pm
I noticed my battery mount is kinda fiddly, it moves way too much when riding on bumpy terrain to the point I had to secure the whole battery additionally with cable ties - not an ideal solution because I'd like to remove the battery every now and then.

I came across the following type of mount, where the zip ties go through a plastic bracket which itself mounts to the battery mount. Anyone know where I could find those or what are they called?
I can't help with your question sorry, but I added an extra two rivnuts for a total of four which holds a jumbo shark securely. There are YouTube videos about how to install the rivnuts without any special tools, except for a drill.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6H6wr7fJYo

If you can spread the weight sideways a bit it will help too, my battery and mount came with some rubber pads that wrap around the tube a little and stop the battery wobbling.
Attachments
mounting-pad.jpg
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Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 12 2020 6:17am

famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 2:40am
0xdeadbeef wrote:
Aug 11 2020 12:22pm
I noticed my battery mount is kinda fiddly, it moves way too much when riding on bumpy terrain ....
......
If you can spread the weight sideways a bit it will help too, my battery and mount came with some rubber pads that wrap around the tube a little and stop the battery wobbling.
The mounts for tie wraps you have seen are 3D printed I think. Best you can ask the owner by PM.
I only have used the two rivetnuts of the waterbottle, but on two places on the ends of the mount I have drilled small holes for inserting tie wraps under the battery. I glued these rubber pads under the mount with hotglue, before I tie the wraps.
I have read too, that some fixed the mount over the complete lenght with hotglue on the frame combined with tie wraps.
That could be a solution for wobbling too, if you haven't (or not enough) these rubber pads. Hotglue stays a bit soft and is easy to remove afterwards.
batterymount.jpg
batterymount.jpg (13.16 KiB) Viewed 536 times
Last edited by Elinx on Aug 12 2020 12:08pm, edited 3 times in total.

Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 12 2020 8:03am

famichiki wrote:
Aug 11 2020 5:28am
I sleeved the axle non-drive side bearing with 0.05mm (0.002") brass shim sheet. It fits nicely now. ....
Also looking at the metal gear I'll be fitting... ...
Your research is very enriching. I'm curious what will following.
I have found brass sheet too, but not the assort you have, but Chinese, so have to wait some time
I have ordered 0,02/0,03/0,05mm which I think is enough.
Also I have ordered a bunch of 6902 2RS bearings too and a couple of clips for mounting on the axle without groove.
I''m not planning to dissamble the axle and torquesensor, but only add the bearings on left and right side (3 without dustcaps).
For better fit I use the brass sheet and maybe some glue (between brass and bearing).
I have reservations about inserting the brass gear, because imho that isn't necessary anymore with OSF. It is more noisy too.
The weakest point now is slipping of the one way needle roller inside, but that is with brass gear too.

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 12 2020 8:59am

Elinx wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:03am
I have reservations about inserting the brass gear, because imho that isn't necessary anymore with OSF. It is more noisy too.
The weakest point now is slipping of the one way needle roller inside, but that is with brass gear too.
I too have reservations about the brass gear. My blue gear is perfect after about 2,000km even though I have sometimes been quite rough during testing. The only reason I want to change it is for times when I will be far from help and cannot risk the blue gear failing. Have you heard of anyone still destroying them after installing OSF?

How do you mean the roller clutch bearing slipping? Slipping within the gear or on the shaft? Or broken in some other way? I was just reading on Jobike of someone who kept having problems so purchased five roller bearings for spares. I wonder if using a better quality roller bearing would be more reliable.

I noticed there are different versions of the brass gear. The one I purchased from PSWpower has much less chamfering at the ends compared to the blue gear, but I saw another online which looked more like the blue gear. Compare the ends of the teeth in the side-by-side photo below and the last photo of a metal gear I found online.

I wonder if the chamfered version is kinder to the motor spindle. And perhaps it is a tiny bit less inclined to rub on the electric motor housing if you have excessive play.
Attachments
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chamfered.jpg
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famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 12 2020 9:13am

Elinx wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:03am
Also I have ordered a bunch of 6902 2RS bearings too and a couple of clips for mounting on the axle without groove.
I''m not planning to dissamble the axle and torquesensor, but only add the bearings on left and right side (3 without dustcaps).
I haven't looked into it very much but there is a chance both a bearing and dust seal could be fitted to the drive side of the axle. If you push the bearing in so it's only partially seated in the spider, it leaves a few mm where a seal might fit. Seals start from 3mm thick. Flanged bearings look interesting for here too as no risk of falling out.
https://www.kugellager-express.de/deep- ... 15x28x7-mm
Attachments
flanged bearing.jpg
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Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 12 2020 9:47am

famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:59am
Have you heard of anyone still destroying them after installing OSF?
I saw it here
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:59am
How do you mean the roller clutch bearing slipping? ...
This is what I mean
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:59am
I noticed there are different versions of the brass gear. ..... And perhaps it is a tiny bit less inclined to rub on the electric motor housing if you have excessive play.
You only know this, if it is broken :wink:
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 9:13am
...... Flanged bearings look interesting for here too as no risk of falling out.....
That sounds as a interesting solution for the spider I will to consider for sure. Thanks

FYI: I saw wider bearings too 15x28x >> 13-14-18-20-23mm, but don't know if this has more advantage than just more 7mm bearings.

Q: I have not yet dissambled the spider (I wait for the bearings), but I'm curious how much the distance is between the circlip of the main gear bearing and the spider (without dustcap). Can you say something meaningfull about it? Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Elinx on Aug 12 2020 6:16pm, edited 5 times in total.

Retrorockit   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Retrorockit » Aug 12 2020 10:09am

Reputable bearing manufacturers list a torque spec. for the one way clutch in the rubber/brass gear. It can vary quite a bit. I think I've seen them from 9-14Nm.
It's entirely possible that bearing fit , and quality may be behind the rubber gear problem.

Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 12 2020 10:39am

Retrorockit wrote:
Aug 12 2020 10:09am
Reputable bearing manufacturers list a torque spec. .... from 9-14Nm.....
I saw the most are 12,2Nm, but maybe there are better bearings to find.
Retrorockit wrote:
Aug 12 2020 10:09am
.....
It's entirely possible that bearing fit , and quality may be behind the rubber gear problem.
Ánother problem are also the wide tolerances what only can overcome by adding shims, sheets and glue.
Even the best bearing isn't optimal if it doesnt fit right

There are bearings and bearings with prices and prices.
The challenge is to find the best that suits you for the price that suits you.

Same is for the CSK30P (inside the main gear). A Stieber version is around € 100,- (more or less)
I think it is a premium bearing, but for that amount (1/3 of the motorvalue) the tsdz2 will not be better.

mctubster   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by mctubster » Aug 12 2020 6:40pm

0xdeadbeef wrote:
Aug 11 2020 5:32am
ilu wrote:
Aug 11 2020 2:24am
1. It's too much for the motor controller or the wires for 6V output which are very thin. Use a relay or another switch to turn on the lights and connect them straight to the battery.
Thanks for the reply. Although I am not sure if I want to go that route, at least yet. I'd prefer to use the controller for the lights, but if 6V headlights aren't suitable I might have to wire them separately.

Can you or anyone else recommend (preferably somewhat powerful) headlights that are compatible through the motor controller?

Again thanks, you saved me a lot of worry and probably fried cables as well!
Yes - I am running the following directly from the motor
Busch + Müller Lumotec IQ Cyo Premium E Front Light for E-Bikes - 1752Q42/6N https://www.bike24.com/p2194214.html
Busch + Müller Toplight View E Rear Light for E-Bikes - 321ASDC https://www.bike24.com/p2193855.html

See here for more detail viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1477871#p1477871

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 12 2020 7:28pm

Elinx wrote:
Aug 12 2020 10:39am
Retrorockit wrote:
Aug 12 2020 10:09am
Reputable bearing manufacturers list a torque spec. .... from 9-14Nm.....
I saw the most are 12,2Nm, but maybe there are better bearings to find.
The datasheet for the INA HF1216-L564 roller clutch bearing says it's 12.2 Nm and they are pricey, but if your gear teeth are still is good condition then this is a better option.
https://docs.rs-online.com/6e7e/0900766b815c1848.pdf

I've ordered new bearings for each end of the reduction shaft.

- Nachi 6001-2NSE9CM for the pinion gear end
- SKF 608-2RSH for the electric motor end

Both these bearings are interesting.

The Nachi bearing is CM clearance specification, slightly tighter than normal and intended for low-noise applications in electric motors.

CN is normal clearance, and if not mentioned it then it's usually CN. CM falls within the CN specification range, but are hand selected to be at the tighter end of the range.

The looser C3 is another common clearance you will see, but this is for when thermal expansion needs to be allowed for.

The SKF bearing features heavy duty seals (RSH designation) and is less likely to lose its grease or become contaminated, so should have a longer service life with less risk of excessive play developing.
Elinx wrote:
Aug 12 2020 9:47am
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:59am
Have you heard of anyone still destroying them after installing OSF?
I saw it here
Yeah, that's a bit messy. I wonder what caused it. When I refit the reduction shaft I'll have to check if there is any difference in the way the blue or metal gears mesh with the motor spindle. A quick measurement shows the diameter of the blue gear to be 37.9mm and brass gear is 37.5mm, so slightly smaller.

But were they running OSF? I was asking about if anyone had destroyed the blue gears after installing OSF. I wonder what the record mileage is for the original blue gear.

Edit: Seems like Casainho had a failure of the blue gear :(
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=5175#p1478345
Elinx wrote:
Aug 12 2020 9:47am
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:59am
How do you mean the roller clutch bearing slipping? ...
This is what I mean
It appears the roller bearings are supposed to be lubricated (with non-EP grease such as SKF LGMT2) so dry fitment may be a contributor. Oil or WD-40 (yuck) isn't going to last very long.

So the roller clutch could benefit from having retaining compound applied where it slides into the gear. It may be impossible to the remove again though, especially from the plastic gear.

However those photos in the wiki are strange, the roller clutch bearing outer shell is not splined.
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/roller-bearings/1371787/

The stock photos in the wiki show a different construction to the user's bearing removal photos. If you look at the last two photos it looks like the bearing is actually within two splined sleeves. One is being pushed out with the bearing, while the other remains.

The stock photo (and damaged photo) only shows one sleeve, which is the same as the the blue gear here on my desk.
Elinx wrote:
Aug 12 2020 9:47am
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 8:59am
I noticed there are different versions of the brass gear. ..... And perhaps it is a tiny bit less inclined to rub on the electric motor housing if you have excessive play.
You only know this, if it is broken :wink:
I read of someone having excessive noise immediately after installing a metal gear, which required adding additional spacer washers underneath it. I can't remember if they had only one washer or none there from the factory. Mine came with one, did some motors come with two?

skestans   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by skestans » Aug 13 2020 5:28am

A question about the temperature sensor and 8-wire controller: where do you get the +5V and GND from? The pictures on the wiki aren't very clear on that: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ottle-type it's not super clear what's going on here.

Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 13 2020 8:53am

famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 7:28pm
.....CN is normal clearance, and if not mentioned it then it's usually CN. CM falls within the CN specification range, but are hand selected to be at the tighter end of the range. .....
I think even the best bearing has problems with Tsdz2 tolerances :)

source

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Aug 13 2020 5:49pm

Elinx wrote:
Aug 13 2020 8:53am
famichiki wrote:
Aug 12 2020 7:28pm
.....CN is normal clearance, and if not mentioned it then it's usually CN. CM falls within the CN specification range, but are hand selected to be at the tighter end of the range. .....
I think even the best bearing has problems with Tsdz2 tolerances :)
That was an interesting video and this is true for the axle, but anything we can do to minimise it will help.

The reduction shaft does not have that same problem. The shaft end bearings fit firmly within the gear case, electric motor case, and on the reduction shaft. The play to be concerned about here is within the bearings themselves. This is what the CN/CM etc clearances refer to, play between the inner and outer bearing races. It is more prevalent in poorly made and worn bearings.

Going back the axle, I do wonder if these are made intentionally too small for a reason. Will it become even less reliable if we remove play and firm things up?

Look at the drive side end of the axle for example. Outside of the circlip groove a bearing slips on loosely, but can't be easily pushed on further than the groove. You could likely press the bearing on and it would be a great fit. The difference in axle diameter is minuscule, so why have they made the area under the oil seal smaller than under the torque sensor? To me, it seems they have done this intentionally. The same goes for the shaft diameter on the non-drive side inside and outside of the splined area.

Regarding the circlip grooves perhaps the reason the axles are breaking there is because the inner corners at the bottom of the groove are sharp. To reduce stress they need to be curved. There was some talk of a stronger axle, I wonder if this was corrected? I also wonder if the fatbike extended axles corrected this, because those seem to readily break too.

There pictures are not of the axle, but you get the idea of what is required. The first shows how my standard axle looks.
bad-groove.jpg
bad-groove.jpg (11.09 KiB) Viewed 352 times
All internal corners need to be rounded to avoid stress concentration and eventual fracture.
good-groove.png
good-groove.png (6.52 KiB) Viewed 352 times

Elinx   1 kW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Elinx » Aug 14 2020 3:21am

famichiki wrote:
Aug 13 2020 5:49pm
...... true for the axle, but anything we can do to minimise it will help........
...... the axle, I do wonder if these are made intentionally too small for a reason. Will it become even less reliable if we remove play and firm things up? .....
You have seen the contradiction?
But if it was made intentionally that way, I wonder what the reason is.
I can only think that the assembling and dissambling could be faster that way, but that can only be answered by Tongsheng.
The actual play becomes more worse after some time. The sprag clutch will be wear out faster.

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