New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Discussions related to motors other than hub motors.
This includes R/C motors, botttom bracket, roller and geared drives.
Andrew707   100 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Andrew707 » Sep 30 2020 1:18am

Andrew707 wrote:
Aug 21 2020 11:41pm
Hello,

Today, I've wanted to do heat dissipation improvement on my motor following tutorial on wiki, replace the blue gear, regrease everything and silicone seal the housing for extra waterproofness. Everything went quite well until I had to test it out... And the motor is not working properly. After pedalling harder I noticed that power drops and there's this weird sound coming out of the motor like "wrum wrum" (here's a short video with that sound).

I have 2800km on this motor and this is the first time I opened it up. The blue gear seemed fine but I still decided to replace it with a new one. To regrease everything I've used ParkTool PPL-1 PolyLube 1000.

Here are some pictures of my progress: https://imgur.com/a/gKUjd30
Andrew707 wrote:
Aug 30 2020 7:40pm
Andrew707 wrote:
Aug 26 2020 5:38pm
So yesterday I soaked blue gear in biodegradable degreaser for a few hours, then used toothbrush trying to clean the inside and then put it under hot water, dried and used isopropyl alcohol to clean inside again and tried it in the motor. Unfortunately, it's still making that sound. :( I believe grease got inside the bearing and it's not going anywhere now... So I ordered a new brass gear just to try it out. But it may take a couple months to arrive. :(

Also, I've tried to hammer out roller clutch bearing using a socket but it came out with the outer ring. Still want to disassemble it to see how it looks like inside but I'm running out of ideas what else to do with my limited tools... Here are some pics: https://imgur.com/a/JTCLktT
Today I finally disassembled the roller clutch bearing. It was interesting to see how does it work inside. Also, I found that the rollers were quite greasy. Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gN1zkfd

I soaked in degreaser my other blue gear overnight. Then used a screwdriver which fits perfectly inside to spin the rollers in the degreaser, hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Dried everything up and the rollers were quite loud when spinning them so that means the inside of the bearing probably got cleaned up as well. Put everything together and my motor is still slipping and making that weird sound. :( I honestly don't know what else to do. Right now I'm seriously considering just buying a new motor again...
Hello,

Just want to share an update on this.

Few weeks ago I've got that weird sound problem described above. Tried many things and nothing worked. Recently finally received brass gear and put it in without any grease at all (just to test it out for like 100 meters) and the motor made the same sound again and power dropped. So the problem wasn't in the greased gear.

Few days ago I've got a new controller. Before putting it in I once again dissassembled the motor, tried to remove the thermal paste from copper wires (I don't think that was a problem but was still worth a try), then I bent even more the waved spacer and put everything back and tightened the screws as much as I could. And the problem almost went away! Right now it briefly makes that sound when I'm "topping out", e.g. biking very fast when the motor cuts out. So as long as I bike normally then everything is fine.

My guess is that maybe that waved spacer somehow impacted the magnets position and prevented the motor from working properly??

Oh, and at the same time I followed eco cycles tutorial to install the lights which worked out pretty great!

Here are some pics of the work I've done: https://imgur.com/a/koBEnzJ
Last edited by Andrew707 on Sep 30 2020 1:07pm, edited 2 times in total.

Andrew707   100 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Andrew707 » Sep 30 2020 1:28am

...my story continued...

So I was extremely happy that after two months I can finally ride my bike again so I went to test it out on a longer ride. I biked ~50km no problem until suddenly the power dropped and the screen started showing E04 error code on my VLCD5 display.

After testing things out a little bit more today seems like after I turn on the system, the motor works perfectly fine for like half a minute and then throws E04. If I continue biking like that occasionally it starts working again for a short period of time and comes back to E04.

I checked documentation and it says that E04 is related to motor blocking:
ERROR_MOTOR_BLOCKED parameters for blocked motor or wheel control. They have been moved to config.h to be able to easily modify them according to your needs. The default values are for immediate intervention and to preserve the blue gear. Change them in case of unwanted interventions.
MOTOR_BLOCKED_COUNTER_THRESHOLD, intervention time from 1 to 10 (1 = 0.1 seconds) MOTOR_BLOCKED_BATTERY_CURRENT_THRESHOLD_X10, current from 10 to 50 (30 = 3 Amp)
MOTOR_BLOCKED_ERPS_THRESHOLD, number of revolutions below which the motor is considered to be stopped. Higher values anticipate the intervention, from 10 to 20 ERPS.
I've tried flashing the motor with different values and E04 keeps showing up. Also, I didn't properly understand what those values mean and why they would come into effect.

Also, when I first tried out the brass gear, I put it in with almost no grease and biked for a few blocks around. Later I found lots of gold dust inside. I've cleaned everything carefully and then properly greased it before going on that 50km test ride. Do you think that somehow could've any impact on E04 error?

Image

Any ideas what could be wrong?

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Sep 30 2020 3:21am

Andrew707 wrote:
Sep 30 2020 1:28am
Also, when I first tried out the brass gear, I put it in with almost no grease and biked for a few blocks around. Later I found lots of gold dust inside. I've cleaned everything carefully and then properly greased it before going on that 50km test ride. Do you think that somehow could've any impact on E04 error?
I'm out of ideas sorry, but want to say you did an excellent job with the lights. I don't know if the metal shavings would cause that error, but if they got into the motor or other electrical contacts then it can't be healthy.

A few people have posted about their brass gear being chewed up even when properly greased. I was going to fit one myself but seeing their photos changed my mind. Instead I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.

Reading about other motors, I find it amusing that when they come with plastic gears people change to metal for reliability but when they come with metal gears people change to plastic to reduce the noise. :lol:

mctubster   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by mctubster » Sep 30 2020 3:42am

famichiki wrote:
Sep 30 2020 3:21am

A few people have posted about their brass gear being chewed up even when properly greased. I was going to fit one myself but seeing their photos changed my mind. Instead I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.

Reading about other motors, I find it amusing that when they come with plastic gears people change to metal for reliability but when they come with metal gears people change to plastic to reduce the noise. :lol:
Carbon belts are where it is at ;) https://www.cyclingabout.com/carbon-bel ... d-to-know/

Including inside the quiet e-Bike motors

vass   1 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by vass » Sep 30 2020 9:37am

Can you pedal with the motor off easly ? did you try to run the motor out of the bike.
I had a "similar" problem when i didnt use the metal part (dunno the name) on the case side on my full susp bike.
I think the motor twisted or something without that part, it became harder to pedal (and had some errors)

One last resort thing is to open up the motor and check inside and clean it (and put some thermal grease while you are at it)
(step 2 off https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... issipation)
Andrew707 wrote:
Sep 30 2020 1:28am
...my story continued...

So I was extremely happy that after two months I can finally ride my bike again so I went to test it out on a longer ride. I biked ~50km no problem until suddenly the power dropped and the screen started showing E04 error code on my VLCD5 display.

After testing things out a little bit more today seems like after I turn on the system, the motor works perfectly fine for like half a minute and then throws E04. If I continue biking like that occasionally it starts working again for a short period of time and comes back to E04.

I checked documentation and it says that E04 is related to motor blocking:
ERROR_MOTOR_BLOCKED parameters for blocked motor or wheel control. They have been moved to config.h to be able to easily modify them according to your needs. The default values are for immediate intervention and to preserve the blue gear. Change them in case of unwanted interventions.
MOTOR_BLOCKED_COUNTER_THRESHOLD, intervention time from 1 to 10 (1 = 0.1 seconds) MOTOR_BLOCKED_BATTERY_CURRENT_THRESHOLD_X10, current from 10 to 50 (30 = 3 Amp)
MOTOR_BLOCKED_ERPS_THRESHOLD, number of revolutions below which the motor is considered to be stopped. Higher values anticipate the intervention, from 10 to 20 ERPS.
I've tried flashing the motor with different values and E04 keeps showing up. Also, I didn't properly understand what those values mean and why they would come into effect.

Also, when I first tried out the brass gear, I put it in with almost no grease and biked for a few blocks around. Later I found lots of gold dust inside. I've cleaned everything carefully and then properly greased it before going on that 50km test ride. Do you think that somehow could've any impact on E04 error?

Image

Any ideas what could be wrong?

Andrew707   100 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Andrew707 » Sep 30 2020 1:26pm

famichiki wrote:
Sep 30 2020 3:21am
I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.
Can you please share some pics how it looks like?
vass wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:37am
Can you pedal with the motor off easly ? did you try to run the motor out of the bike.
I had a "similar" problem when i didnt use the metal part (dunno the name) on the case side on my full susp bike.
I think the motor twisted or something without that part, it became harder to pedal (and had some errors)

One last resort thing is to open up the motor and check inside and clean it (and put some thermal grease while you are at it)
(step 2 off https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... issipation)
Yes, I can pedal easily with the motor off. There are no issues. And when it works after system start up I don't hear any strange noises and everything seems normal. I'm a bit reluctant to open it up again since I already nicely put everything together and silicon sealed the case... Also, all my problems started after I decided to do this completely unnecessary but nice to have heat dissipation improvement... So far it cost me countless hours of work, couple hundred dollars, lots of headache and not being able to ride my bike for two months :(

Any other info what E04 means and what causes it to show up would be greatly appreciated. Maybe somebody who was contributing to OSF saw something useful in the code?

sysrq   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by sysrq » Sep 30 2020 5:33pm

tomtom50 wrote:
Jul 26 2018 6:39pm
jbalat wrote:
Jul 25 2018 6:56pm
Waynemarlow wrote:
Jul 25 2018 4:19pm
Guys, I'm not sure what the problem is with the motor moving, if its fully located on the crank side of the BB and the non crank side plate is correctly installed ( yes you may well have to shim it with spacers to get the bolts correctly torqued ) and the large nut is correctly torqued,
Its hard with full suspension bikes because you are only relying on friction to hold it. If you do off road then the locking nut can come loose. Having a torque arm makes sense.
The stock motor attachment reacts torque with the torque arm. The "securing plate"
Exploded View.jpg
is not about transmitting torque. It gives a load path for up / down forces on the motor. Without the securing plate a force on the motor housing puts the casting is bending in a way likely to break it like you see in this photo
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=2775#p1395963

Reacting the torque in friction is not what the design relies on. That is solid engineering practice. Friction is hard to estimate, surface contamination is a factor, torques are hard to ensure and even if a torque wrench is used the preload is not accurately know, etc.

But I can see why people with rear suspensions like the idea of using friction. They don't have a place to install the torque reacting plate. So I ran a few calculations to see how feasible it is. Assumptions:
0.2 coefficient of friction
Torque to react 80 N-m
Bottom bracket effective radius 19mm
No factor of safety
Two friction surfaces (both sides of the bottom bracket)

Pre-load you need from the M33.5 locknut: 10,526N (2366 lb).

To get there you need to apply 66N-m torque (49 ft-lb), but that is not an accurate calculation because differences in thread friction throw it off. I would at least double the torque applied and closely watch to see if it slips. Can the wrench that comes with the unit apply 135N-m (100 ft-lb)? Maybe. It is probably best to extend it. If you extend it and apply 100lbs at 1 foot you are close. Maybe maybe not. That is definitely more preload than an engineer would expect from that wrench. Would it hurt the TDSZ2? Would the preload hurt the TDSZ2? I can't tell for sure. There is an inside radius on the casting that would see more stress.

I like the serrations Bafang puts in their unit. Serrations work, how well they work requires close analysis. If I had rear suspension bike I would try this Nord-Lock serrated washer if you have enough threads showing. It is big enough. It is cheap. Maybe it would work if torqued highly, say 100 ft-lb.
91074A145_ZINC-COATED STEEL WEDGE LOCK WASHER.png
Will the nord-lock washer work with low torques (40Nm) bellow the ones recommended in nord-lock data sheet.
According to the video below screw gets stretched due to cams when untightening the nut (not sure if this will not compromise the axle assembly and torque sensor).
https://youtu.be/WbLS3rGtKDM
Could using Loctite or jamnut method be more suitable in this application?

Swannking   10 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Swannking » Sep 30 2020 9:04pm

Andrew707 wrote:
Sep 30 2020 1:26pm
famichiki wrote:
Sep 30 2020 3:21am
I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.
Can you please share some pics how it looks like?
vass wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:37am
Can you pedal with the motor off easly ? did you try to run the motor out of the bike.
I had a "similar" problem when i didnt use the metal part (dunno the name) on the case side on my full susp bike.
I think the motor twisted or something without that part, it became harder to pedal (and had some errors)

One last resort thing is to open up the motor and check inside and clean it (and put some thermal grease while you are at it)
(step 2 off https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... issipation)
Yes, I can pedal easily with the motor off. There are no issues. And when it works after system start up I don't hear any strange noises and everything seems normal. I'm a bit reluctant to open it up again since I already nicely put everything together and silicon sealed the case... Also, all my problems started after I decided to do this completely unnecessary but nice to have heat dissipation improvement... So far it cost me countless hours of work, couple hundred dollars, lots of headache and not being able to ride my bike for two months :(

Any other info what E04 means and what causes it to show up would be greatly appreciated. Maybe somebody who was contributing to OSF saw something useful in the code?

A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.

mctubster   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by mctubster » Sep 30 2020 9:14pm

Swannking wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:04pm
Andrew707 wrote:
Sep 30 2020 1:26pm

Yes, I can pedal easily with the motor off. There are no issues. And when it works after system start up I don't hear any strange noises and everything seems normal. I'm a bit reluctant to open it up again since I already nicely put everything together and silicon sealed the case... Also, all my problems started after I decided to do this completely unnecessary but nice to have heat dissipation improvement... So far it cost me countless hours of work, couple hundred dollars, lots of headache and not being able to ride my bike for two months :(

Any other info what E04 means and what causes it to show up would be greatly appreciated. Maybe somebody who was contributing to OSF saw something useful in the code?

A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?

Andrew707   100 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Andrew707 » Oct 01 2020 12:21am

Swannking wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:04pm
A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Yeah, I saw that too but my motor is 6 pin with no throttle function.
mctubster wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:14pm
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?
No, I didn't do temp sensor mod. The only modification I did was heat dissipation "improvement" after which I started having all these problems.

szchz   1 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by szchz » Oct 01 2020 12:51am

If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?

vass   1 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by vass » Oct 01 2020 2:36am

Try to put the stock firmware on just to ensure its not a bad config on osf (or a strange bug).
Andrew707 wrote:
Oct 01 2020 12:21am
Swannking wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:04pm
A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Yeah, I saw that too but my motor is 6 pin with no throttle function.
mctubster wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:14pm
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?
No, I didn't do temp sensor mod. The only modification I did was heat dissipation "improvement" after which I started having all these problems.

vass   1 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by vass » Oct 01 2020 4:24am

It means that its probably dead and you need a new one , you could try to check if the programming software (STVisualProgrammer) can read/write from and to it, but my guess is you fried it (with luck the lcd is ok)
szchz wrote:
Oct 01 2020 12:51am
If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?

maximusdm   100 W

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Re: Problem with torque sensor!

Post by maximusdm » Oct 01 2020 7:09am

leisesturm wrote:
Sep 29 2020 11:02am
maximusdm wrote:
Sep 29 2020 7:54am
1. Why does the sensor value not change on force?
2. Also is there a way to simulate pedal force without installing it on motor?
3. I read the wiki but is not very clear how to do it with 2 screwdrivers.
3a. Maybe someone knows better how a torque sensor works and has some ideas.
1. It probably is changing, however, it is calibrated to record force levels FAR ... FAR in excess of anything you can generate with your fingers.
2. No. See answer 1. Above. The whole system has to be assembled and the test weights need to work through the leverage of the ~6"+ crank length to generate meaningful signal levels.
3.I skimmed the wiki and did not take away anything involving Screwdrivers. What I took away was that calibration could involve known weights like large bags of sugar, or flour, or children(!). I can't see how you could simulate a 'known' weight with two Screwdrivers. I would probably be unconscious after two Screwdrivers but your alcohol tolerance might be much higher.
3a. It has been explained to me how the torque sensor works. To have better ideas than the ones in the wiki, I would need to know what exactly is your issue? Is your motor operational or not?
Hi,

By calibration hardware I mean the process in which the torque sensor range is increased significantly versus stock. Usually the torque sensor can measure up to 260 torque units. If it starts from 180, the whole range is 80 units.
If you manage to align the magnets and the sensors correct you can start from 60 lets say. So 200 units range. I do not make the software process implemented in latest version of OSF with weights.

The symptoms are: the display starts with no errors and on pedal press the motor is not started. When checking the diag menu for torque sensor, the value is constant: 80 units.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... que-sensor
Please see:How to adjust the torque sensor part below.

szchz   1 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by szchz » Oct 01 2020 10:57am

vass wrote:
Oct 01 2020 4:24am
It means that its probably dead and you need a new one , you could try to check if the programming software (STVisualProgrammer) can read/write from and to it, but my guess is you fried it (with luck the lcd is ok)
szchz wrote:
Oct 01 2020 12:51am
If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?
yup, I can read/write no problem.

Andrew707   100 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Andrew707 » Oct 01 2020 10:43pm

vass wrote:
Oct 01 2020 2:36am
Try to put the stock firmware on just to ensure its not a bad config on osf (or a strange bug).
Andrew707 wrote:
Oct 01 2020 12:21am
Swannking wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:04pm
A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Yeah, I saw that too but my motor is 6 pin with no throttle function.
mctubster wrote:
Sep 30 2020 9:14pm
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?
No, I didn't do temp sensor mod. The only modification I did was heat dissipation "improvement" after which I started having all these problems.
Good idea! It was worth a try. However, the problem persists. Stock firmware doesn't show E04 error but the motor stops working after biking for half a minute or so. :(

I was thinking what else could be wrong... So back in the days when everything worked fine I noticed that there was a bit of play when pedalling with no power on. Once any assist level is turned on then the pedal play disappears. Right now I put everything very tightly and there's no play with no power on. Maybe by overtightening bottom bracket lock ring I pressed the right side too much on the bottom bracket shell and damaged something? I've tried loosening the lock ring but the problem doesn't go away.

Adarsh881   1 mW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Adarsh881 » Oct 04 2020 10:30am

Retrorockit wrote:
Jun 02 2020 9:56am
ATF is thinner, and has Anti foaming properties. If you want to do this you can clean the grease out of the roller/sprag clutches also. ATF is the perfect lube for those. ATF has become the normal lube for a lot of manual transmissions, and even the final drive on fwd cars. Adding fins to the outside of the cover will be useful just as with air cooling. The drag of the rotor in the ATF will tend to heat up the fluid. Leaks will probably happen. But I'm all in favor of someone else trying it.
I'd love to have a go. Especially if it reduces the sound a bit. I still would like to use my blue nylon gear though. Any thoughts on which oils would not soften the nylon?
Last edited by Adarsh881 on Oct 04 2020 10:31am, edited 1 time in total.

AdCash   1 µW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by AdCash » Oct 04 2020 1:52pm

Hello everyone,

I have been using the TSDZ2 on my MTB for about 800 miles now and have been very happy with the install. I'm currently looking at adding a Bafang 860c screen and open source firmware. I've successfully built a bootloader out of some old Arduino bits and flashed the screen but, before I swap out the existing XH-18 and upload the new firmware to the motor, I was wondering if anyone could help me with some of the set up options please? In particular it is the 'Max current' and 'low cut-off' fields in the battery section: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... ay#Battery that I'm struggling to find the right values for.

I'm currently running a Junstar 36v 10Ah RF2500 kettle battery which apparently has a 10s8p configuration. I've not been able to find a more detailed data sheet anywhere, nor a direct way of contacting the manufacturer. Does anyone know where I might find this information, or can anyone suggest some sensible default values that I should be using for this kind of battery?

Many thanks

LeftCoastNurd   10 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by LeftCoastNurd » Oct 04 2020 2:15pm

safe cutoff voltage for typical LiIon cells is 3.0V, so with 10 cells in series ("10S"), you would multiply those voltages by 10, so 30V low voltage cutoff

8P sounds funny for a 10AH, that would suggest the individual battery cells are only 1250 mAH, while the usual 18650s are more typically 2400-3500 mAH depending on quality. A 36V 10AH bottle battery can probably sustain as high as 20 amps, 350 watts is at most 10 amps, so setting it to 15 amps won't limit your motor power (thats another setting, anyways)

AdCash   1 µW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by AdCash » Oct 04 2020 2:41pm

That's very helpful, thank you :thumb:

cargowill   1 µW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by cargowill » Oct 05 2020 2:50pm

Hello! I have had the TSDZ2 for a while now and love it. However I have had a bit of an issue for the entire time I've owned it. The crank has some play, and the chainring has some play. I know everything externally is tight (allen bolts that hold the chainring and spider, lock ring etc., all of the movement seems to be in the chainring spider. I emailed the vendor on Amazon and they told me it was normal...So i ignored it and rode 1500km. I know that wasn't the best idea, but I was frustrated and wanted to ride.

However winter is about to hit and I wouldn't mind getting my bike ready for the frosty commute, so now is the time to tackle this issue. I have posted a GIF of the wiggle below from a when I first noticed (It hasn't really gotten much worse).

[url]https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comment ... &context=3[Link to reddit]

I have tried searching, however I cannot seem to find anyone else with this issue. I would love to figure it out.

zip1989   10 µW

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by zip1989 » Oct 05 2020 4:41pm

I keep getting this error message. I tried two different displays and two different ST-Link. Loaded and installed "en.stsw-link009". Then "SW102_First_Install_Windows" is loaded and "sw102-full-0.19.11.hex" is extracted into the folder. The correct wiring was checked several times and finally painted on a piece of paper.
Attachments
Unbenannt2.png
Unbenannt2.png (44.23 KiB) Viewed 220 times

famichiki   100 W

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Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by famichiki » Oct 05 2020 7:12pm

Can anyone please tell me where the 3 springs behind the torque sensor should sit? In the long slots by themselves, or around the nipple in the circular holes? There's conflicting info around.. OK Feet's disassembly video shows them in the circular holes, but other repair guides show them in the long slots.

Edit: I just read the comments in the OK Feet video, someone else mentioned their springs were in the slots instead and there were marks on the back of the disc where the springs had been. Sure enough, checking my disc in the light shows some marks indicating the springs were previously located in the slots. So I wonder if they changed the positioning at some stage or has that motor been taken apart and put back together wrong.
Attachments
okfeet.jpg
okfeet.jpg (39.48 KiB) Viewed 205 times
repair.jpg
repair.jpg (99.96 KiB) Viewed 205 times
sfm.jpg
sfm.jpg (77.81 KiB) Viewed 205 times
Last edited by famichiki on Oct 05 2020 7:50pm, edited 2 times in total.

Wapous   1 mW

1 mW
Posts: 15
Joined: Oct 30 2019 9:33pm

Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by Wapous » Oct 05 2020 7:24pm

While I was waiting for the arrival of my new torque sensor I imagined a simpler way to install this piece.
It suffices to hold the Stator part against the three small springs while installing the torque sensor.
This simplifies the task and the three small springs do not have to be retained by grease.
When the torque sensor presses on the plastic retainer, the plastic sheet is rotated and that's it.
Attachments
Cables around the screw.jpg
Cables around the screw.jpg (335.3 KiB) Viewed 204 times
Stator_retained_in place.jpg
Stator_retained_in place.jpg (375.53 KiB) Viewed 204 times
Stator_signal_cables.jpg
Stator_signal_cables.jpg (352.8 KiB) Viewed 204 times

bergerandfries   1 W

1 W
Posts: 51
Joined: Mar 02 2019 9:47pm

Re: New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Post by bergerandfries » Oct 05 2020 8:24pm

I have this problem too, which is posted unanswered in the "E-Bike Technical" section. Anyone have any ideas?
by cellmate » Jul 13 2020 3:16pm

Hi there,

I just got a brand new TSDZ2 from eco-cycles. It is working, but have noticed that the resistance when turning the cranks is not continuous all the way around. It is smooth all the way except one spot, where it has a bit more friction. It's not a huge amount, but you can feel it when pedaling. There is also a subtle/quiet grinding sound at that point. It's very quiet (nothing like some of the things I've found when googling this), but it is definitely there once you notice it.

I noticed that if I put the bike on the repair stand and use the throttle to turn the chainring, there is a tiny wobble to it, right at the point where it makes the sound.

I removed the drive-side crank, chainring, and spider, and ran it again. Now the motor is smooth and silent. If I put the spider back on again but don't tighten the 5 retaining bolts fully, it is also smooth. As soon as I tighten them even the tiniest bit (< 1nm) the wobble and grind comes back.

The motor works, but I feel like something isn't right, and I suspect it will get worse if I don't deal with it sooner rather than later.

Has anyone had this before?

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