I'm planning on using a Nexus 8 Speed Geared Hub with a powerful RC Motor. I assumed running 1/8" chain would be strongest so I was trying to find out the external width online. I didn't find that but did find the following (link and brief excerpts):
Is this outdated information? Is there a superior 1/8" chain, possibly designed for single speed use? What is the strongest or best 1/2" chain for high power usage? How wide is it (I still need the width)?4. 1/2x1/8" chains vs. 1/2x3/32" chains. 1/2x1/8" chains suck. Run whatever you want, but bigger isnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t better here. Yeah, theyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re wider, but according to manufacturer-supplied data, theyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re not stronger and they are definitely not of better quality. Multi-speed drivetrains is where the bucks are at, and chains that work on such drivetrains are where the manufacturers of chains showcase their innovations and developments in quality. The rollers are better, the plates are better, the pins are stronger, and the construction method (riveting procedure) is better on all multi-speed 3/32" chains. I guess if you grind your chainring and chain down the handrail every night at the local pub, a bigger 1/2x1/8 " chain will last longer, but most of us donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t and it wonÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t.
I was planning to use the rear Sprocket that comes with the Nexus (I think 20t). Is 20t big enough? Would 22t have one more tooth engaging?1....
In the case of an 11 tooth cog, thatÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s only 5 or 6 teeth at any given time! Unless your thighs are as big around as a SurlyÃ¢â€žÂ¢ carpenter pencil, you will be able to make any low-gear transmission required for general one-speed off-road riding skip AT WILL, using an 11 tooth cogÃ¢â‚¬Â¦
Ã¢â‚¬Â¦ and its not so different for a 16 tooth cog, probably the smallest rear cog you might have on your one-speed ride. Considering that you donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t shift, youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ll be giving EIGHT teeth the full wrath of your wide load up the harshest vertical climbs you choose to attack. What my long-winded explanation is getting at is that more teeth are better when it comes to an off-road one-speed drivetrain. One tooth makes a huge difference out back with regards to preventing skippage. Wear life, too, is improved with more teeth. Since you never leave that gear, every mile you spin is on the same few teeth. Your drivetrain will last longer and will skip less and will launch the chain fewer times if you use larger cogs and chainrings.
I recommend that you pick a big cog out back (18 teeth or larger) and experiment to find a gear ratio you like by varying your chainring sizes up front. The weight penalty here is practically non-existent; there is no benefit whatsoever to using a "Micro-drive" drivetrain on your one-speed off-road bike. DonÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t do it! ItÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s dumb and youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re gonna hurt yourself on a steep climb.
I don't have any questions about the following but the information might be useful or useful for discussion:
Might be outdated information. White FW's are designed for single speed use:
6. Hey, REPLACE YOUR PARTS OFTEN! You will have to. LetÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s say the average dude spends most of their time in 5 or 6 different gears (out of 27, sheesh!) on any given multi-speed bike ride. You spend all your time in one gear. And youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢re wrenching the snot out of those drivetrain parts in a way they werenÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t designed for. Your parts will last 1/5 or 1/6th as long as the average dudesÃ¢â‚¬â„¢. Ever wonder why you canÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t get more than 3 months out of a freewheel before its starts skipping on you?...
BMX freewheels and even mountain-bike cassette bodies were never designed for the sort of repetitive, high-torque abuse that one-speeding wreaks on drivetrain parts. Until someone makes a bomb-proof freewheel or cassette hub (King? $$$), get used to replacing these parts often!
2. Chainline. Chainline refers to the alignment of the front chainring and the rear cog. Chainline is important on all bicycle drivetrains but especially so on a one-speed. A perfect chainline is one in which the chainring and rear cog are in perfect alignment with each other and the chain takes a perfectly straight path from the chainring to the cog. Anything less than damn close on a one-speed will result in premature drivetrain wear and frequent chain launching. Chain line can be fine-tuned by re-spacing your hub, adding or deleting freewheel spacers or cassette spacers, changing cranks, changing b.b. spindle lengths or shimming bottom brackets, using spacers between the crank spider and chainrings, and whatever else you can think of to get your ring and cog to line up nicely. Your drivetrain will be quieter, too.
Also related and interesting idea:5. Shifting-enhanced cogs vs. Normal cogs. Shifting-enhanced cogs, typically Shimano HyperglideÃ¢â€žÂ¢ or InterglideÃ¢â€žÂ¢ cogs, refer to rear cogs that have been machined, stamped, pressed or otherwise manipulated to allow a chain to enter and exit easily for clean, smooth shifts on a 5- through 9-speed cluster of cogs. They work pretty good on multi-speed bikes and equally as well on one-speed bikes. Avoid using them on your single! When you put the power down, theyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ll shift all right-- and youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ll be visiting the dentist.
Thanks!If you have a single speed or internal gear system, I have an article a special technique for extending chain life.
One can make a case that it is better to use even numbers of teeth for straight chain drives, and keep the chain always set the same way on them. Here's why:...
...As long as you don't derail the chain and put it on out of its normal phase relation to the sprocket teeth, a considerably worn chain/chainrings can run smoothly and efficiently.
If you have a simple (non derailer) drive train with even numbered sprockets, you can considerably extend the lifespan of the drive train components by paying attention to the "phase" relationship of the chain and sprockets.