I was building this new bike last night got it all together and it ran great. So today I had the day off and thought "let's make it a little cleaner" so disconnected the battery. Ran all the wires a differently and now I just get a hum out of the motor, and it shoots up to 2500 watts on my CA. If I manually turn the crank backwards a quarter revolution and it will shutter before it hums. Motor stays cool but phase wires get hot. I'm not sure what I did or what I crossed but I've spent more time looking for the problem than building the bike. Any advice would be appreciated.
Cyclone 3000 phase wires heat up but motor doesn't turn
- Thread starter Sparkplug
- Start date
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Sparkplug,
try this flow chart:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59122&start=150#p1254487
if you cannot get steady rotation, after checking each Hall Sensors for rise and fall in voltage while rotating motor, then check Hall wires[continuity] to assure no lose or sketchy connections [ especially the plugs]. Poke small pins into the particular wire one color near the controller and one of same color where the motor wire sheath ends-- Then ck for continuity while jiggling the wires. Some wire crimps on the plug hardware can not conduct much current.
Some controllers cannot drive the C-3000 motor by using as little as 5v on the Hall Sensors. You will have to apply 12 v on the Hall sensor [only here] when using a Kelly controller [talks with Fany] to get enough rotation signal.
try this flow chart:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59122&start=150#p1254487
if you cannot get steady rotation, after checking each Hall Sensors for rise and fall in voltage while rotating motor, then check Hall wires[continuity] to assure no lose or sketchy connections [ especially the plugs]. Poke small pins into the particular wire one color near the controller and one of same color where the motor wire sheath ends-- Then ck for continuity while jiggling the wires. Some wire crimps on the plug hardware can not conduct much current.
Some controllers cannot drive the C-3000 motor by using as little as 5v on the Hall Sensors. You will have to apply 12 v on the Hall sensor [only here] when using a Kelly controller [talks with Fany] to get enough rotation signal.
ScooterMan101
1 MW
^ Above ^
and or ...
One of the little Hall wires come out of the plug ? , or one or more Hall wire got pulled out of the little clip that it connects to inside the plug ?
and or ...
One of the little Hall wires come out of the plug ? , or one or more Hall wire got pulled out of the little clip that it connects to inside the plug ?
Thanks for all the replies. Dingus, I have continuity on all the hall sensors, but the voltage spine on the green and blue is 0-40v+. The yellow is 0-5v. Scooter man. I will try to hardwire and bypass all connectors tonight, bug I'm pretty sure the hall sensors are shot,and robocam I have the green and yellows reversed. I have made that mistake previously. Thanks again guys. I'll keep you posted, but I have order a bare motor and hall sensors. I guess the worst that can happen is I have to build another bike with the extra motor 
DingusMcGee
10 kW
Are you hinting that the Hall transistors are burned out? You are saying you have spikes of 40 v on the green and blue Hall wires or do you mean the Phase wires of that color? Or have you got these phase wires hot enough to melt their sheaths into a Hall wire and create a short circuit from the phase wires to the hall wires? You might want to look over the entire length of these wires for such meltdowns. The most likely place for such meltdown is where all 8 wires go into the motor shell and are all tightly together.
Hall sensors maybe cost $0.95 a piece. You can pull one out and get the part number. The ones I have replaced were Honeywell S41-533. You will likely need some very small heat shrink tubing and a low wattage soldiering iron with a small point tip. Replacing them is somewhat cheaper than a buying a new motor.
Hall sensors maybe cost $0.95 a piece. You can pull one out and get the part number. The ones I have replaced were Honeywell S41-533. You will likely need some very small heat shrink tubing and a low wattage soldiering iron with a small point tip. Replacing them is somewhat cheaper than a buying a new motor.
