How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

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olivier38   1 mW

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by olivier38 » Jul 29 2018 4:28am

Tommm wrote:
Jul 29 2018 3:55am
olivier38 wrote:
Jul 29 2018 3:37am

Hi,
OK, understood. I have to push motor towards the left side. Is it a problem if the right side of the motor is too much inside? that is to say, if the right side of the motor is inside the mounting cylinder? (pelase forgive me if my explanation is not very clear, so I hope the picture will help to understand).Diapositive1.JPG



The motor is inside the cylinder for me too, I got it like that when it was shipped. It is about 1cm max inwards. When on the biggest cassette gear and 22t on front the chain is close to the rear wheel rubber, about 1cm away, but it does not touch(2.4" rubber). When in the middle gear of 9 speed cassette the chain is straight.

Be careful to tighten the screws back carefully, alternating between them to get them all same tightness. If you don't make it tight enough, the motor will slowly spin inside the cylinder while riding and will rip your wires apart. And don't make it too tight either as you are just pulling steel and there will not be a hard stop to it, before something breaks.
Ok, thank you for your recommendations. I will use a torque key. I also have another question: when I mount the rear derailleur, at 1st speed shifter, I notice that it touch the 50T. i believe that I probably badly mount it, but do you have the same issue?

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Jul 29 2018 5:04am

olivier38 wrote:
Jul 29 2018 4:28am

Ok, thank you for your recommendations. I will use a torque key. I also have another question: when I mount the rear derailleur, at 1st speed shifter, I notice that it touch the 50T. i believe that I probably badly mount it, but do you have the same issue?
I linked picture in last post, you should check it.

You need to adjust B limit screw on derailleur. Don't worry about the other screws(they are labeled H and L).
https://youtu.be/QRhKaZd6GWQ

If the screw is pushed in to the max and it still touches, you need a derailleur extender like this:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/prod ... /46570.jpg
If the bike was in parts check if you got it.

olivier38   1 mW

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by olivier38 » Jul 29 2018 2:56pm

Tommm wrote:
Jul 29 2018 5:04am
olivier38 wrote:
Jul 29 2018 4:28am

Ok, thank you for your recommendations. I will use a torque key. I also have another question: when I mount the rear derailleur, at 1st speed shifter, I notice that it touch the 50T. i believe that I probably badly mount it, but do you have the same issue?
I linked picture in last post, you should check it.

You need to adjust B limit screw on derailleur. Don't worry about the other screws(they are labeled H and L).
https://youtu.be/QRhKaZd6GWQ

If the screw is pushed in to the max and it still touches, you need a derailleur extender like this:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/prod ... /46570.jpg
If the bike was in parts check if you got it.
thank you for your explanation. As you recommend it, I use the additional derailleur extender. Now the 50T doesn't touche the derailleur.
I have another question: before installing a front derailleur, could you tell me what is your crank wheel size and the top speed you can reach with a 14S, 58.8V (when full)? currently I have the 34T/22T delivered with the kit, and I'm wondering if a 38T is a good choice. The size of the crank wheel will constrain the front derailleur setup (High or low). thank you

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Jul 29 2018 3:26pm

olivier38 wrote:
Jul 29 2018 2:56pm

thank you for your explanation. As you recommend it, I use the additional derailleur extender. Now the 50T doesn't touche the derailleur.
I have another question: before installing a front derailleur, could you tell me what is your crank wheel size and the top speed you can reach with a 14S, 58.8V (when full)? currently I have the 34T/22T delivered with the kit, and I'm wondering if a 38T is a good choice. The size of the crank wheel will constrain the front derailleur setup (High or low). thank you
You don't need the 34 either. I had 34/22 it and I took it off, now it is just 22t.

At 22t front and 11t rear and 27.5" wheel, you can pedal at 32kph, which is as much as you want with a bike as heavy as this.
The human leg will spin around 140 max, and 110 optimal.
The motor will spin max ~500 with a 52v battery and max ~700 with a 72v battery.

Use this site:
http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence

Image

You will be power limited by your battery/controller before you run out of gears, even in 22t front 15t rear. So there is no need for 34t or 38t front.
Plus, electric motors love to spin. You need to be around 30%-50% of max rpm for good efficiency. You will cook the motor if you use big front chainring, and it is more difficult to have a good chainline for all gears with 2 chainrings front.

So you need 200-300rpm for efficiency. You can see the rpm in bluetooth app(it says speed, but it really is RPM, because the motor doesn't know the gearing). It says 52kph for 700rpm, so keep it around 15kph and 22kph(200-300rpm), that will mean 30-50% max rpm for 52v.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by olivier38 » Aug 10 2018 2:11pm

Hello,
I Correctly install the rear derailleur with the 2 extenders delivered with the bike frame, and I also install a front derailleur. I keep the original chainring (as you recommend it). everything seems to be working fine.
Now I have another question: is it possible to install an external PAS? because due to the coax motor it's impossible to install it. And I'm afraid that the PAS sensor is inside the motor (I didn't take care of that when ordering).

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Aug 10 2018 2:34pm

olivier38 wrote:
Aug 10 2018 2:11pm
Hello,
I Correctly install the rear derailleur with the 2 extenders delivered with the bike frame, and I also install a front derailleur. I keep the original chainring (as you recommend it). everything seems to be working fine.
Now I have another question: is it possible to install an external PAS? because due to the coax motor it's impossible to install it. And I'm afraid that the PAS sensor is inside the motor (I didn't take care of that when ordering).
I had the PAS sensor installed into my motor. With this controller, it is not very usable. Paco is right recommending against people installing it. The controller is very dumb and almost works like an on/off switch for the PAS. Your legs can do 120rpm max, the motor with pas on, will go 500-700rpm. It is impossible to use correctly and is very dangerous, as it will go full throttle, 100% power to reach max rpm.

I read in cyclone thread, that if you have a 3 speed switch, you can limit the speed of the motor and the PAS speed will be limited by the same %. The "low" setting should be limitable in the bluetooth app to 10% or 20% if I remember correct. Sadly, if I use a 3 speed switch, and use the "low" setting, the motor refuses to work at all. Maybe the problem is only my controller.

The best bet is to put it in a low gear and pedal along while holding throttle to emulate PAS while keeping a high rpm with your legs, 90-100, so you can hear the motor is not ticking or clicking, as that is bad for it. Obviously, if you want use a lot of power, you first will have to change 5-7 gears before doing it when you are in such a low gear.

Sadly, the very useful auto-cruise function does not turn on with a very low RPM like that. The auto cruise can be turned on by keeping same throttle for 6s, and turned off by pushing the throttle or the brake if you have brake sensor installed (good idea). Don't know if the low rpm limit would be a problem with the manual cruise switch.

The cruise control feature made me forget about needing PAS. You should try it!

Also, register the bike as a moped if you are worried about it being legal. In my country in EU, it is very simple, no license plate needed.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by olivier38 » Aug 13 2018 2:33am

hello,
Thanks to all for your helpful comments.
Today I tested the bike on flat ground. here is my first feeling. I compare with the cyclone 3KW motor running at 58V.
with the new coax motor, the motor is very soft, in comparison the 3KW motor was more beasty.
But maybe I have a bad use of the gearing on this coax motor?

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Aug 13 2018 9:02am

olivier38 wrote:
Aug 13 2018 2:33am
hello,
Thanks to all for your helpful comments.
Today I tested the bike on flat ground. here is my first feeling. I compare with the cyclone 3KW motor running at 58V.
with the new coax motor, the motor is very soft, in comparison the 3KW motor was more beasty.
But maybe I have a bad use of the gearing on this coax motor?
To start the bike fast you want to use 22t front and something like 42t rear. Next step you need to use "fast start" and turn off "slow start" on the controller bluetooth app. Fast start 1 makes it more responsive, fast start 10 is good if you ride in dirt and need fast response.

Without fast start it will behave like a gas bike.

Aside from response, you need to write how much Amps you can do with your battery. If you have a shark or dolphin style case, it is enough for ~2kw. If you run 2000w in bbshd or 2000w in this motor, there will not be too big differences. Maybe it will even feel slower, because with a bbshd small gears have top speed of 15kmh, and with this bike its 30kmh+, which means you get half the torque.
This motor can do 5kw+, so if you want to use it right, you need to feed it 72v 60a.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by olivier38 » Aug 13 2018 3:48pm

Hi,
my battery is a 30A continuous (so it support a time limited over current). But the voltage is only 58V. But maybe my judgment is falsed, because my reference of comparison is the cyclone 3KW motor which is finally different, as the primary chain drives the crank, whereas the coax motor directly drives the crank.
tell me if I'm wrong, but It seems that the coax motor is very sensitive the gears of the bike ? => if a bad gear i used, there's a risk of cooking the motor? => I have to learn how to correctly this coax motor.

now, another point, I checked the voltage at the throttle (half hand throttle delivered with the bike): I'm surprised because the maximum signal voltage is 3.3V and the voltage on the red wire is 4.3V (5V expected). Do you think this could limit the bike?

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Aug 13 2018 4:59pm

olivier38 wrote:
Aug 13 2018 3:48pm
Hi,
my battery is a 30A continuous (so it support a time limited over current). But the voltage is only 58V. But maybe my judgment is falsed, because my reference of comparison is the cyclone 3KW motor which is finally different, as the primary chain drives the crank, whereas the coax motor directly drives the crank.
tell me if I'm wrong, but It seems that the coax motor is very sensitive the gears of the bike ? => if a bad gear i used, there's a risk of cooking the motor? => I have to learn how to correctly this coax motor.

now, another point, I checked the voltage at the throttle (half hand throttle delivered with the bike): I'm surprised because the maximum signal voltage is 3.3V and the voltage on the red wire is 4.3V (5V expected). Do you think this could limit the bike?
Do you use the bluetooth app? You can see current in the app. If you have 50% battery amps setting in app and the amps display goes to 19-20A, your throttle is 100% and I wouldn't worry about it.
Do you have the 40A or 60A controller? The 60A controller does not know it is 60A, it thinks it is 40A. So when it shows 40A in your bluetooth app, it is pulling 60A, if you limit amps to 50% in bluetooth app, it will show 20A, but it is pulling 30A.

That is correct, the coaxial bike is geared high from the start. There is no crazy strong gear with 15-20kph max speed like with cyclone 3kw builds. So for big torque you need some amps. And using it hard in a high gear will stretch the chain and cook the motor. I don't use half of the the high speed cogs at all, the 11t 14t 18t 21t, cogs I don't use at all. Biggest 42t cog for climbing and accelerating in city, 3-4 smaller cogs for high speed or long roads with stable speeds.

Will you make a new battery for it? I use it both with a 52v13ah 30A ~1500w pack, and a 72v23ah 70A ~5kw pack, and it is a totally different bike! The rpm range is much bigger so you need to shift less with 72v and the power is bigger too. It is a proper motorbike with the big battery.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by olivier38 » Aug 14 2018 4:01am

Hi, than you for your feedback. It's very interesting and confirms me that this coax motor is completely different than other cyclone motor. So I have to train myself to use low gears of bike to exploit the torque and power of this motor.
So you build 2 batteries? the 52V for the daily use (stealth bike) an the 72V for high speed bike?
In fact I thought that my 58V (14S Li Ion) should be enough, but according to you, with 72V it's totally another bike. maybe I was expecting this behaviour until now... do you build another battery or add cell to the 52V?

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Aug 14 2018 10:55am

olivier38 wrote:
Aug 14 2018 4:01am
Hi, than you for your feedback. It's very interesting and confirms me that this coax motor is completely different than other cyclone motor. So I have to train myself to use low gears of bike to exploit the torque and power of this motor.
So you build 2 batteries? the 52V for the daily use (stealth bike) an the 72V for high speed bike?
In fact I thought that my 58V (14S Li Ion) should be enough, but according to you, with 72V it's totally another bike. maybe I was expecting this behaviour until now... do you build another battery or add cell to the 52V?
I have two ebikes, so 52v is a hailong pack from another bike. The 72v pack I built by unitpackpower for the coaxial bike. I use 52v pack when the 72v pack was not ready. Even a triangle pack in frame is stealth if you paint it same color as the bike.
In the bluetooth app you can see the speed meter. But it is not speed, it is RPM. For 52v max rpm is 35kph, so keep it above 10 or 12 and you are fine.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Compoundbike » Aug 24 2018 12:30pm

That weak Hailong battery looks so misplaced for 4kW.. im not sure what they have thought by doing that setup.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Chalo » Aug 24 2018 2:44pm

Compoundbike wrote:
Aug 24 2018 12:30pm
That weak Hailong battery looks so misplaced for 4kW.. im not sure what they have thought by doing that setup.
Hailong makes cases, not cells. You don't know that the cells in there are weak.

My Luna Shark pack would be foolishly weak for a 4kW bike. But it's as easy to live with as the battery on my cordless drill, unlike any other e-bike battery I've had.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Aug 24 2018 7:41pm

Compoundbike wrote:
Aug 24 2018 12:30pm
That weak Hailong battery looks so misplaced for 4kW.. im not sure what they have thought by doing that setup.
The big hailong can hold 60 cells. 20s3p of 30Q cells, 72vx60a peak = 4.3kw.

I wanted to build that exact battery and no ali seller would do it for me, they said there is no 20s bms that will fit the case.

Anyway, the bike is obviously meant to be used with a custom triangle pack. I wouldn't trust the ones that can be optionally bought from cyclone themselves either.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Compoundbike » Aug 30 2018 12:16pm

Chalo wrote:
Aug 24 2018 2:44pm
Compoundbike wrote:
Aug 24 2018 12:30pm
That weak Hailong battery looks so misplaced for 4kW.. im not sure what they have thought by doing that setup.
Hailong makes cases, not cells. You don't know that the cells in there are weak.

My Luna Shark pack would be foolishly weak for a 4kW bike. But it's as easy to live with as the battery on my cordless drill, unlike any other e-bike battery I've had.
Okay.. didnt know about this.
Im not impressed with those standard connectors in Hailong case. They are good for smaller motors.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Chalo » Aug 30 2018 12:45pm

Compoundbike wrote:
Aug 30 2018 12:16pm
Im not impressed with those standard connectors in Hailong case. They are good for smaller motors.
Yes, I think the connectors are inappropriate for multi-kW power levels. I've had some minor problems with the pack-to-cradle connectors on my bike, and it's only 750W nominal. 25 amps, I think?

It seems to me Hailong cases are about on par with most other cheap Chinese consumer products-- good in some regards, cheesy in others, under-engineered, and very inexpensive.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Enric » Sep 05 2018 4:27am

Hi all,
I'm very interested in that bike, or the kit motor.
But about the complete bike I have a question.

How much weights the cyclone elite coaxial bike ?

I don't find that info in any web site, and for me it's important-

I find to have a powerful and stealth ebike with almost the weight of a ebike, not with the weight of a motorcycle.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Sep 05 2018 7:05am

Enric wrote:
Sep 05 2018 4:27am
Hi all,
I'm very interested in that bike, or the kit motor.
But about the complete bike I have a question.

How much weights the cyclone elite coaxial bike ?

I don't find that info in any web site, and for me it's important-

I find to have a powerful and stealth ebike with almost the weight of a ebike, not with the weight of a motorcycle.
If you are good with bikes, I would not buy the wheels from them, it adds a lot to the shipping cost. Shipping they said was $400 with wheels and $150 without wheels and fork. It is not worth it, buy your wheels at home. You need 142x12 rear, front wheel depends on fork. Same with the fork. If you are buying white color I can show you new $250 shipped coil fork from ebay that was $900 when released.

It is heavy compared to a bbshd bike conversion, but not as heavy as an enduro frame hub bike or the sur ron.

Dirt motorbikes start around ~100kg, same with the ktm e-dirtbike, sur ron is 50kg, and so are the enduro frames 40-60kg depending on the hub size, how much battery they have, and if they have moto or bike wheels. A typical mtb with bbshd and shark pack will be around 25kg. I have a carbon mtb bike with bbs02 dolphin pack and it is 21kg.

My coaxial bike is 24kg without battery. This is a heavy build, 170mm coil fork and shock(coil is smoother but always heavier), glass proof thick tires and tubes, steel cassette and hub, big front and rear lights, big plush seat(almost 1kg alone). I have a 1.7kwh 8kg 160 cell pack(sur ron has 176). The final bike is 32kg. So it is right in the middle.
With a typical build you will be around 28-35kg depending on battery. There is space for at least 200 cells.
The coaxial bike with coil front and rear is much more stable and comfortable than the carbon mtb that was $4000 new (bought it used), so I don't mind the weight at all. You don't feel small rocks and bumps.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Enric » Sep 06 2018 4:49am

Thanks for the info Tomm,

I find interesting that you say about to buy without wheels and fork, I think if if buy it, i will buy in that way.

24 kg without battery it's good for me.
My FS bike with BBSH weights 25kg, but I have a fat bike with BBSHD and weights 30Kg. I would like to replace the fat bike with a coaxial.

Can you give me the info of the fork ?

It's the frame strong enough to support the power of the motor ?

The controller has display to see speed, volts, or watts ?
I'ts possible to attach a cycle analyst to the controller ? I would like to attach a CA and connect the optional internal PAS sensor to use not only with the throttle.

I'ts possible to use at low speed in something similar to trial spots ? or it's only a motor to speedy ?
I would like to have a ebike more trial/enduro, not speedy. For mi it's not interesting to reach higher speeds. I prefer move in 20-30km range easily with lots of power, but has the ability to move a 5kmh with precise control.

Sorry for make a lot of questions.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Sep 06 2018 5:32am

Enric wrote:
Sep 06 2018 4:49am
Thanks for the info Tomm,

I find interesting that you say about to buy without wheels and fork, I think if if buy it, i will buy in that way.

24 kg without battery it's good for me.
My FS bike with BBSH weights 25kg, but I have a fat bike with BBSHD and weights 30Kg. I would like to replace the fat bike with a coaxial.

Can you give me the info of the fork ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X-FUSION-Venge ... 2142927552
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X-FUSION-Venge ... 2142927608
https://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Fusion-Venge ... 3903327216
This fork was made in ~2013 as the high end fox36 competitor $900 new. In reviews, it was said to be as good or better. It has 36mm stantions, even some bigger triple crown forks like the usd-8 only have 35mm thick ones. It is a big, strong beast, perfect for this bike.
You can ask for tapered headtube coaxial bike and buy tapered version(first link), tapered headtube is newer technology and is stronger. Plus if you don't go triple crown, the fork looks like a bike fork and not a motorbike, so it keeps it stealth. The ugly black stripes are probably a problem with the picture and not actually there. The logos are stickers you can peel off easily. If you order a black bike it might be matte black, that case you can paint it matte black easily.

Keep in mind, triple crown forks are 1/8 and not tapered, so if you think you might upgrade to triple crown, don't buy tapered headtube version bike.
Enric wrote:
Sep 06 2018 4:49am
It's the frame strong enough to support the power of the motor ?
Yes. Since it works at high rpm and low torque up until the cassette, all the torque will only happen in the wheel hub. This is why a strong bike chain like kmc x9-93 is enough.
Enric wrote:
Sep 06 2018 4:49am
The controller has display to see speed, volts, or watts ?
I'ts possible to attach a cycle analyst to the controller ? I would like to attach a CA and connect the optional internal PAS sensor to use not only with the throttle.
The controller has bluetooth app and it can be adjusted quite well. It will display motor rpm, amps. If you buy throttle with LCD display you can see volts on your handle bar. I don't have a CA but you can search cyclone motor thread for CA info. I can configure it fine, so I don't need it. I just use alu phone mount with phone as display.

I ordered the PAS in my bike, and I would say don't do it. The PAS in this bike is extremely stupid, it is on/off switch. Too aggressive. It is a waste of money.
If you really want PAS you can try to install CA and use CA PAS, or make your own CA with arduino and the internal PAS option.
When I ride I either: 1, Use throttle, 2, Pedal and touch throttle lightly, works up to 32kph, 3, Use auto cruise control.
Since I have cruise control I don't worry about PAS, just hit throttle for 6 seconds at same speed and it turns on.
You have to remember at 3-4kw, the amount of power(300-600w) you can provide to help the motor is very small. So pedaling doesn't make too much sense.
Enric wrote:
Sep 06 2018 4:49am
I'ts possible to use at low speed in something similar to trial spots ? or it's only a motor to speedy ?
I would like to have a ebike more trial/enduro, not speedy. For mi it's not interesting to reach higher speeds. I prefer move in 20-30km range easily with lots of power, but has the ability to move a 5kmh with precise control.
It is geared quite high, if you use 72v battery (you should) and use 22t front 50t rear (you should) the top speed is ~34kph in slowest gear. But in this gear it is much more stronger than a bbshd in a 36t front 42t rear or similar and the bbshd will have about 12kph max speed in that gear. Depending on your controller settings, the throttle has better or worse control than the bafang throttle.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChRzFA ... qFSchp2omQ
You can check out sac's channel to see what this bike can do, I use it on similar trails. It can climb hills and embankments but I would not use it to jump, but I don't jump any other bikes either. If you use throttle and jump and land at the same time, you will probably have some problem.
It can handle what your fat bike can, but this bike really shines as a stealth supermoto that can comfortably go 40-50kph on dirt trails, 70-80kph on street and still look like a normal bike.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Sac037 » Sep 06 2018 6:50am

I've done alot of kms on mine so far on trails.
Something to watch is the rear derailleur.
I was using a 50t rear cassette and a microshift marvo derailleur.
After a lot of abuse the derailleur alignment got crooked and because the chain speed is much faster than anyone could pedal. The derailleur snagged, ripped the derailleur through the bike and i tore out the rear wheel, bent the frame, mashed the wheel into the frame and did alot of damage.
The solution.
Shimano xt derailleur
46t rear cassette
Bionicon c guide.
Because the chain is 136 links there's alot of chain bounce, this is where the issues start to destroy the derailleur. The c guide fixes the issue.
Being chromolly its easy to repair the frame, it was an easy fix.
I also made a solid stainless 12mm axle with ht nuts, so the rear wheel will never get ripped out again.
Fyi. I was also running 75 amps at 72v .So heaps of Torque.

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Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Sep 06 2018 10:01am

Sac037 wrote:
Sep 06 2018 6:50am
I've done alot of kms on mine so far on trails.
Something to watch is the rear derailleur.
I was using a 50t rear cassette and a microshift marvo derailleur.
After a lot of abuse the derailleur alignment got crooked and because the chain speed is much faster than anyone could pedal. The derailleur snagged, ripped the derailleur through the bike and i tore out the rear wheel, bent the frame, mashed the wheel into the frame and did alot of damage.
The solution.
Shimano xt derailleur
46t rear cassette
Sad to hear that. I use a clutched derailleur to keep up with the chain speed.
A clutched derailleur lets the chain out much harder but pulls it back with the same force as a normal one. So there is less back and forth bounce.
I do 20% dirt and 80% road usage so chain bounce isn't that big of a problem, but I will look into that chain guide too. It looks nice and simple.
It is possible to use a 9 speed chain and cassette with a clutched shimano derailleur. While they only start from 10 speed and up, a sram 9 speed shifter with a 1:1 pull will bridge they gap perfectly. Shimano 9 speed shifters aren't compatible. This combined with a 11-50t steel unit from ali is probably the perfect combo. My 50t hasn't arrived yet but I think there is enough clearance for the m6000 GS to clear it without an extender.
There are cassettes now that are not only pinned together but the base of the last few gears is one solid block.
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Skaiwerd   100 W

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Location: CT

Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Skaiwerd » Sep 06 2018 10:21am

Guys

Keep this good stuff coming. You are feeding us the info we need to decide, design and plan out out future builds possibly using this new motor. This could be the motor that will stimulate more custom frame builds and more unique ebikes. The cyclone3000 is very universal and can fit many bikes while this is the motor only and you’d have to build the bike frame around it. More work but the end result is a real one of a kind ebike that will be well worth the effort from what I’m reading about this motor from you guys.

Tommm   100 W

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Posts: 206
Joined: Apr 03 2018 2:32am

Re: How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

Post by Tommm » Sep 06 2018 10:50am

Skaiwerd wrote:
Sep 06 2018 10:21am
Guys

Keep this good stuff coming. You are feeding us the info we need to decide, design and plan out out future builds possibly using this new motor.
You will love this post then.

I agree the 4kw motor is quite good. Fabricating a holding bracket should be no more difficult than for a bafang ultra motor. There are small things than can be done to make it better. I will be running it up to 75-80A with a new controller. It should be as powerful as the sur-run with the square wave controller.
Since the original 60A controller is just a 40A with a shunt mod(12 fets), this 50A one with 16 fets should be able to handle it easy, and still fit under the seat. (This listing has the size all wrong.)
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 50395.html

I will be doing a motor air cooling mod too.

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Anker Soundcore 2 bluetooth speaker. It gets loud and is water resistant.
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Using the big space between wheel and seatpost. Controller hidden in plastic box from ali.
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Blower fan will be part of forced air cooling mod.
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Dashboard part 1: Speed(top) and RPM(bottom). Useful to know when to shift. Also shows controller temp.
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Clutched 10 speed shimano m6000 on 9 speed bolany steel cassette from ali.
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Dashboard part 2: Motor temp meter and voltage meter. Temp meter is powered by phone's usb outlet. My 72v triangle battery is currently being reinforced.
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Temp meter lead going in. The thicker wire is the PAS wire. Not only is it useless, it is in the way of making a better seal. Will be extracted. Grey stuff is silicone from a previous water tightening round.
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Automatic clutch setup. It is a brake sensor that fires when the upshift level is pulled. This stops the motor for a second but the drivetrain inertia completes the gear change. By the time the motor picks up speed again it is all done.The higher rpm the better it works. See it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqLCcapaUMg
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Ignition and 3 speed switch(field weakening/normal/off) hidden under seat.

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