How good is Cyclone 4kw coaxial suspension bike?

trappermike

100 W
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
164
Location
British Columbia,Canada
I've been looking at this,it looks like a good full suspension bike w/ hyd. brakes etc,but I have no idea how quality this bike is.
Also anyone have experience with this new Cyclone coaxial drive system? Any input on how good their stuff is? It has Samsung batteries,I'm wondering how good their motors,controllers and chargers etc. are and how are they when you need replacement parts or warranty?
 
My experience with Cyclone has been good. Their stuff is cheap and the parts I've gotten from them are what you'd hope to get for the price-- functional, not fancy nor industrial grade. The gearmotors have surprised me with their durability so far. They've been helpful with support both before and after the sale. They are halfway around the world, so the benefits of whatever personalized service they can offer are limited.

Cyclone is in Taiwan, which has an established industry producing decent quality, unpretentious bikes and bike parts. The bike appears to be a one-size model, which is an indicator of a manufacturer who cuts other corners too. But I'd say it's from the best possible country of origin to to maybe be an OK e-bike at that price. The DNM suspension components are a good clue-- they're nothing fancy, but they do the job and represent good value.
 
I looked at this as well, looked like a cheapy frame, but I asked and they did say bearings on the linkages.. and 140mm travel. Frame and motor was about $1000USD I think. I decided just to get a 1680W cyclone and mount it on my DH bike instead. I do want to see one built up properly though.

Andy
 
The reason I'm asking about the Cyclone bike is because a friend wants to buy a Trek Powerfly 5 bike,but at 250w,and about $3500 I wouldn't buy one so I was looking at the Cyclone as an alternate for him,also I could find NO info from the Dealer or Trek on specs for the motor and batteries.
I myself drive a downhill bike with a 4000w Crystalite 5 series motor,it's been faultless for almost 15 years. :)
 
trappermike said:
The reason I'm asking about the Cyclone bike is because a friend wants to buy a Trek Powerfly 5 bike,but at 250w,and about $3500 I wouldn't buy one so I was looking at the Cyclone as an alternate for him,also I could find NO info from the Dealer or Trek on specs for the motor and batteries.
I myself drive a downhill bike with a 4000w Crystalite 5 series motor,it's been faultless for almost 15 years. :)

Loose the 200mm front fork in lieu of something with a shorter Axle to crown, it looks like it's very reclined, leaning a frame back doesnt have the same affect as a slacker head angle, look at it side on, then comapre it to the downhill bike, youll see what i mean. 140mm rear travel....200mm front fork. :lol:
They make good kits that people have stressed reliably beyond their ratings, but i wouldnt want to take that thing offroad, the upper linkage looks like alluminium foil.
 
Not the frame but I did buy the 4kw kit, just hope it comes quickly, hoping for a week. Its 5:50pm Monday now, so its like 12 hours ahead over in Taiwan, so hopefully they can pound it out and in the mail on their Tuesday workday that is just starting now, 6am Taiwan time. Shoulda really bought it Sunday night when I was ready to click on it, but I figured I could make my current dd kit last, but its frocked and I can not, not ebike.

Oh forgot to note, it will be installed on my Townie 21D cruiser with 68mm BB, but Strong GTS has a much larger BB, but that bike needs work. Will just weld a new BB tube in it when its being worked on.
 
Hi first time post. Wanted to share my new elite frame build. I have built 3 x 3000w cyclone bikes and i really wanted a full suspension frame so could not resist when they released the elite.
So far i got what i expected. The chromoly frame is very basic but it has the strength i was after, as with the 3000w motor the frame twist on every acceleration worries me on aluminium frame.
The frame does not have bearings only one steel one for the lower rear arm which is a steel to steel bush, the rest are just bolts and nyloc nuts through sheet metal holes
I have modified the frame with igus bearings, which involved using a lathe, mill and also some acetal rod and precision ground 8mm chrome shaft, i also re painted the frame as the paint job that came on it was shite.
But this is what i was expecting
I have started to make a battery box from fibreglass that houses the controller and 72v 20ah battery
 
I should also comment on the motor.
I have blown out 1 3000w motor with moisture getting in through the cable entry which was replaced under warranty ( good service) So i dismantled every motor including this one and re dip the windings and seal the whole motor with rtv silicone.
The coaxial motor is very complex and very precisely made. The machining tolerances are perfect.
It has a total of 3 freewheels. 2 internal.1 external and lots of precision fit components. To replace the nylon gears will be a major job in time and not for a novice. I found the gears fail after about 4000km of hard riding and degrade from heat and lots of abuse. Not bad for $25 to replace.
 
Its not the same motor
The length of the winding loops and magnets are longer.
The body is steel not aluminium like the 3000. Its a also much heavier.
It should put out alot more torque than the 3000.
 
Photos of almost finished elite bike.
The carbon fibre battery box has nostrils to cool the controller. Air flow travels up hill so water doesn't enter.
Its hard to tell in the photo. But the bike is huge. These are 29er rims with 2.4" tyres.
 

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Looks great! Did you create the carbon parts using negative molds or cover styrofoam with carbon then use acaatone to desolve?


Markz
We need to know more about the kit man!
 
I made a plug from 2 part expanding foam. Coated in resin and polished. Then the mold. then the parts
Took forever. Once i had the carbon skins. I made plaster air ducts and laminated the inner skin. Cut the duct holes then washed out the paster.
I wouldn't do it again. Cyclone should make a vacuum formed version. The available space holds the controller and up to 140 x 18650 cells. I have 120.
 
Looking at the frame it looks like a decent kit for booting around paved or light gravel.

Full suspension, yes.... downhill capable? NO! The frame looks far too weak for anyting other than being a nice plush ride over some potholes and light gravel.

If you are after a DH capable bike that can stand up to a beating then get a DH specific bike. Other wise this bike looks like it can deliver for commuting and light gravel duty no problem!
 
These bikes are similar in performance to say a 125cc motor bike at 70lbs. A 125cc bike weighs about 250lbs. So it maybe on the heavy side for savage downhill. But it will out manover a 125cc motor bike.
A chromoly frame won't fatigue and break like 6061 aluminium.
Essentially its a very nimble electric light weight motor bike not an electric downhill bike.
 
If that frame is heavy enough, it could be more than strong enough for whatever kind of riding. My impression is that the frame was intended for a much shorter fork, though, and putting the long fork on it has raised the ride height, slackened the frame angles, and increased steering trail. Doing these things usually has a negative effect on handling qualities.
 
nice bike.
I like the design behind the build coaxial motor
what sort of specs you getting with your ride,
how many amps the controller put out.
should go nice at 72v id imagine
can you post up some links to video performances
I'm thinking bout going your route
thanks
merry xmas
 
First ride.
So finally finished the wiring and took it for a test spin. Still have a few settings to finish, but it hammers at 40 amp.
Compared to the 3000w kit at 84v , its so much better.
The gearing is alot more spread out. At about 50kph its in 4th gear ( its fast) and quick enough.
Theres alot to play with on the bluetooth controller, so im still trying to sort the best settings before going to 60amp. And set my shifters up for the fastest shifts possible.
Motor temp after a few 100mtr sprints was still cool even on a 30c degree day.
I mainly want it to do 45 degree inclines at decent speeds. Trust me this kills ebikes. Another week and it should be good for a decent run up the mountains.
 
hi mate,

your new ebike sounds the goods..
any chances of a video for us ebike junkys :wink: ..
thanks a heap

merry xmas & happy new year
 
No video yet. Still sorting out bugs.
The controller is giving me greif.
It shuts down on thermal protection at 110deg c
But its 20 degrees wrong. Actual temp is 90deg c
Theres no options to calibrate amps or temp.
I'll try paco and see what he or she thinks.

So i took it up the mountains and had to reduce phase current and main current to 50% So then it has not enough starting torque to climb from standing start on a steep hill.
 
what,so there seems to be heating issues with the coiaxle design..
hopefully u find the sweet spot n modify some cooling options,paco should be knowledgable enough hopefully to come to sum solution
cause on their site it states its capable of 60a72v as a option..
im not far off from ordering mine, still won't put me off from committing to the bike,just have to ride it at 40 maybe 50amps,how many amps where you running when it strarted to give you grief
thanks heaps for posting your experiences, nice work so far mate
 
I notice on their cyclones website that their seems to b another silver colored 4kw coiaxle bike not your elite black one..
upon closer inspection frothier pictures the silver one looks to b running an external controller cause of all the wiring under the bottom bracket, wheres the controller for the elite models could b wrong.but in their pics there defiantly is that exposed wiring as a difference maybe this could;d run cooler not sure, how many toothed cog you got up the front cause pack recommended me the x-sync 34 toothed motor chain ring..
thanks
 
Heard back from paco.
Increase the cooling and run an amp meter.

The controller is suppose to sit infront of the bottom bracket. But i would smash it on a log.
With the 3000 i ran the controller the same way, in the battery box, never had an issue, even on a 40 degree day.
But this bike is crazy fast. At least 2x qucker and faster than the 3000.
I'm thinking of running fans with a 12v step down buck converter and making a new controller case with better finned heat sinks.
At low speed and high torque, climbing hills, theres not enough air speed to cool the controller.
A kick ass fan should do a lot.

In general the motor and gearing draws lots of current. 29er wheels was probably a mistake. But 27.5 wheels would only be a marginal benefit.
The mid range torque is insane. Open up the throttle at 40kph and i have to hold on firmly because the acceleration is nuts.
 
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