Most hill climbing power from single speed Stoke Monkey?

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Jun 20, 2015
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I have been playing with the new motor simulator, but need to some incites to how to make it work best for this use of 450 lbs total combined weight on a 9%grade. [with a single reduction to the drive wheel as a mid-mounted single-speed drive] (belt or chain).

NO I DO NOT WANT TO USE IT AS A MID-DRIVE THROUGH THE DRIVE CHAIN.
I would really like to be able to drive 550lbs up these hills, but that is only possible with two motors, or at least much more power than I can bribe the cops to ignore. “Two motors” would more confusing to them.

According to this graph the stoke monkey (non-geared) will work at a very slow speed with a 2.16:1 ratio to the 26” wheel. Obviously I need more than 600 watts output, because even more reduction would make it too slow to balance.


What are the possible controller perameters?

What is the maximum power can any of the Stoke Monkeys putout?
It looks like the 7x9 and 8x8 are only 600w. :?:

stoke%2Bmonkey%2B7x9%2B20%2Bwheel%2Bgrade%2Bshowing.JPG


stoke%2Bmonkey%2B20whhel.JPG
 
It looks like the G02 has a higher wattage output....But it is not geared as low as I want, although a 1:1 ratio would not be much slower: 11 to 12mph?? But it would work fine with a single reduction of 1.6:1 for 12 to 13mph. At 1400w.

What is the gear reduction with an MTB bicycle's drive train? :?:
It says nothing about whether the motor simulator is showing what the output is without the bicycle's gears or with.


G02%2Bfor%2Benldess%2B-sphere%2B48v%2B16%2Bwheel%2Bgrade%2Bshowing.JPG
 
600W is a pissant output, why do people bother with these motors still? I'm running 6KW out of a cyclone which is a cheap motor available for $200 off sickbikeparts. OBVIOUSLY, to increase power with the same voltage you will need to increase phase and / or battery current....or voltage.

You can also run MORE voltage, which will spin the motor faster, and MORE reduction, which gets around the problem of you falling over. The motor will make more power this way but hopefully not heat up too much.
 
Hugh-Jassman said:
I have been playing with the new motor simulator, but need to some incites to how to make it work best for this use of 450 lbs total combined weight on a 9%grade. [with a single reduction to the drive wheel as a mid-mounted single-speed drive] (belt or chain).

That's a pretty huge amount of load for an ebike drive system. If you wanted to do it with a small motor like the bafang G02 stokemonkey which is based on a nominally ~350W hub motor, then you'll have to gear down at least 3:1 or further to not have the motor overheat. To simulate this (26" nominal wheel with 3:1 reduction) set the simulator to a 9" effective wheel size running the motor with a 52V battery pack and a 20A controller and you'll have a setup that would do about 18-20 kph on the flats and could climb the steep hills like this at about 14-15 kph with pretty reasonably (>80%) motor efficiency.

If you are not constrained by motor size and don't require the stokemonkey mounting hardware, then I'd recommend a larger and more powerful off the shelf hub motor in an application like this, like a Crystalyte H35 or eZee or MAC. This is especially the case if you can't do better than a 2.16:1 reduction to the wheel. For transmission you can either bolt a sprocket to the disk holes of a front motor or use a threaded freehwheel on a rear motor.
 
The only reason I am thinking about the stoke monkey is that I don't know of another better one that is set up like this.
And I am assuming that the motor body does not spin in the braketts...

8.9% seems to be the most it will climb even with a 9" wheel.

I was looking for a can motor, that would work up to 1500 watts, not expensive....hard to find.

SM%2BCL%2B52volts%2B12%2Bwheel.JPG



justin_le said:
Hugh-Jassman said:
I have been playing with the new motor simulator, but need to some incites to how to make it work best for this use of 450 lbs total combined weight on a 9%grade. [with a single reduction to the drive wheel as a mid-mounted single-speed drive] (belt or chain).

That's a pretty huge amount of load for an ebike drive system. If you wanted to do it with a small motor like the bafange G02 stokemonkey which is based on a nominally ~350W hub motor, then you'll have to gear down at least 3:1 or further to not have the motor overheat. Set the simulator to a 9" effective wheel size running the motor with a 52V battery pack and a 20A controller and you'll have a setup that would do about 18-20 kph on the flats and could climb the steep hills like this at about 14-15 kph with pretty reasonably (>80%) motor efficiency.

If you are not constrained by motor size and don't require the stokemonkey mounting hardware, then I'd recommend a larger and more powerful hub motor in an application like this, like a Crystalyte H35 or eZee or MAC. This is especially the case if you can't do better than a 2.16:1 reduction to the wheel.
 
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