
Anyone know good (but cheap) coil shock for rear atleast for winter driving?
edit. Oh yeah, i also changed my handlebar to shorter riser bar, i could never get used to that wide bar. Still can´t get the front up to learn do manual

Probably you could find them on Ebay.nataS@phnet.fi wrote: ↑Jun 12 2018 5:27amI just changed my tires to Moto-x 2,8" , great for tarmac driving. Air shocks sucks in winter, mine broke in sub zero temperatures. I replaced the seals and o-rings , it works but leaks air. Now my bike is again waiting for parts and is just sitting in living room as a collective art piece![]()
Anyone know good (but cheap) coil shock for rear atleast for winter driving?
edit. Oh yeah, i also changed my handlebar to shorter riser bar, i could never get used to that wide bar. Still can´t get the front up to learn do manualbut that must be just my lack of skills.
Thanks everyone for the help! I did go ahead and order last night, the EX-1 was just a few hundred more. As much as this purchase was, I'll go ahead and contact Ivy about spending the $$$ for the suspension upgrade too. I am FL based, so sub-zero temps are not a big issue normally, but may as well do it to the hilt.Ivanovitch_k wrote: ↑Jun 12 2018 4:43am+1. Unless you have extremely steep hills in your commute, the Ex1 might be overkill and is expensive. It is very well suited for off-road however.
Use a Shimano XT 11-42 (and set the dérailleur limit screw to forbid use of the largest aluminium sprocket) or SRAM 1150 fullpin (XD or the 1130 for Shimano splined freehub).
You might also want to change the stock steel 44T chainring by a 48 or more to reduce the use of the 11T sprocket which has a very hard time handling non-human power. I have several wolftooth barrow wide chainrings incoming (48, 50 and 52T) and will report frame clearance / compatibility asap.
Super moto X 2.8 do fit in the Am1000 (I have them on 35mm wide rims), and if you want a little bit more puncture resistance use their 2.4 variant.
Last, air shocks aren’t as good as spring ones for commute purposes. Their small bump sensitivity isn’t that great.
Exactly why the EX-1 is worth the upgrade IMHO - my understanding is it is designed to shift under power and built for power use. My ICE powered bike is a jackshaft setup, so also uses chain drive like a mid engine, and chain/derailer issues have been frequent.reduce the use of the 11T sprocket which has a very hard time handling non-human power.
What forks are out there that are coil spring these days?Last, air shocks aren’t as good as spring ones for commute purposes. Their small bump sensitivity isn’t that great.
the EX1 has a 10T 11T small sprocket so it'll be even worse in that regard (accelerated wear + skipping under torque).trooper5707 wrote: ↑Jun 12 2018 7:24amExactly why the EX-1 is worth the upgrade IMHO - my understanding is it is designed to shift under power and built for power use. My ICE powered bike is a jackshaft setup, so also uses chain drive like a mid engine, and chain/derailer issues have been frequent.reduce the use of the 11T sprocket which has a very hard time handling non-human power.
snap, you're right, had eagle 12S range in my mind ! Edited the post.trooper5707 wrote: ↑Jun 12 2018 11:31amHmm, I am reading it as 11/48 unless I am missing something?
https://ebike-mtb.com/en/sram-ex1-revie ... in-e-mtbs/
FREYebikes wrote: ↑Jun 07 2018 11:38pmAbout battery holder issue you mentioned, I think that's because this is really a big and heavy battery, and we think the battery holder design is not strong enough and perfect.
What we are doing try to make it more stable as following:
We found the lock core is not long enough to hold the battery. the original one is in golden, we customize a longer one to use now.
IMG_20180608_122249.jpg
And there is some slight gap between battery and the holder, we put one 2 piece of 3M gel to make it holder better and no move. it will be more stable then.
IMG_20180608_122240.jpg
If anyone need some help or support from us, please feel free ask.
If it is just a mid drive commuter bike you want, there are many available from manufacturers such a Risen (who make the Frey)Richard N wrote: ↑Jun 13 2018 8:48amMy interest is largely in a commuter bike, it was the G510 and price which led me to the Frey. Meaning, I don't really need a FS bike, but the Frey is good value, so it stays on my short list for now.
My question: Does Frey have any intention of releasing a hardtail MTB that uses the G510?
You're right. Even at speeds less than 40, 32 here, which I'd observe, you're right, but racks and bags are so much easier on a hardtail.Ivanovitch_k wrote: ↑Jun 13 2018 2:29pmmy 2 cts:
commuting at ebike speeds on an hardtail can be done but potholes and rough roads are more than a discomfort.
suspension seatposts and wide, low pressure tires do help but when you roll over a bad pothole at 40+ kph you understand why all other 2-wheel motor vehicles have rear suspensions. That is, if you don't get ejected OTB or damage a rim...
Yes, it's more expensive and maintenance-heavy but I wouldn't say that a FS commuter ebike is a "nice to have" thing, IMO it's more a "must have & safer" feature.
Excellent post. Thank youTom L wrote: ↑Jun 16 2018 5:23amHow to run lights that draw more than 500mA @ 6V and have them controlled from the Bafang handlebar control pad. This modification is capable of supplying the full battery voltage at 2.5A.
1) Remove the battery. IMPORTANT!
2) Remove the three screws holding the plastic cover above the motor.
3) Remove the chain ring and protector.
4) Unbolt the 3 motor mount nuts.
5) Punch out the three mounting bolts, making sure the spider and peddle crank arm are out of the way (on the opposite side). Really, check this twice!
I dropped the motor onto a spool of speaker wire so it did not drop all the way to the floor but still had to cut the cable ties on the swing arm going to the speed sensor.
6) Construct the following circuit:
A third set of hands (real or mechanical) are needed (see first picture).
If you dont include the resistor the lights will turn on with the handlebar switch but wont turn off unless you turn off the power.
The polyfuse is a wise precaution in case of shorts.
7) Heatshrink the leads and MOSFET:
7A) Replace the battery and test the lights.
9) Remove the battery again. IMPORTANT!
10) Carefully put the motor back in place, ensuring you do not crush any wires or parts.
11) Screw the plastic plate back in place above the motor.
12) Reassemble the chainring.
That's it. I'm only up to step 10 as it is a bit tricky to get the bolts back in place and I have run out of daylight. But the lights are operating via the handlebar control.
Have you tried using the second light connector (I listed them a few posts back ) ? I think one is always on (when display is set on) and another is enabled / goes higher voltage on braking. I will play around with a test setup tomorrow.
Thanks, I await the results eagerly.
So, I pushed the experiment a bit further and verified the fit using soda can shims stack. Most cans have a very precise 0.10mm thickness (0.097mm is the industry standard).Typically, posts are spec'd to be 0.2mm under the nominal inner diameter of the seat tube. For instance, an imperial Columbus SL seat tube has a nominal outer diameter of 28.6mm and a nominal wall thickness of 0.6mm at the post end, which results in a nominal inner diameter of 27.4mm. The standard post diameter for an SL frame is 27.2mm. source