TZDS2 mechanical issues - 750W motor not working

happy_chappy

100 µW
Joined
Aug 17, 2018
Messages
7
Hi, wondering if anyone can help fix this issue as my bike is my only form of transport!
I bought a 52v 750W TZDS2, VLDC 5 with throttle and 52v 13.6Ah Shark LG Cell Lithium Ion Battery Pack from recycles-ebike.
I've rode the system for just 30 miles on the charge that battery came with and it did the job well.
The throttle never worked so I just assumed it was not supposed to. I had initially plugged it into the middle port and it showed an error so I had then attached it to the left port.
Unfortunatley after fully charging the battery the motor stopped working...
If I apply pressure to the pedal with the brakes on, the motor jerks a bit like it's trying but I get no assistance. This is on any power level and from 10-32 A.. Previously you could hear a loud whirring sound as you pedalled and the motor kicked in, now the sound is nothing like before, it's almost silent, and there is no strength to the assistance. This is a video of me gently turning the pedals with the brakes slightly on to create resistance: https://vimeo.com/user88520934/review/285459744/58c8faf305

The initial respose from the vendor was suggesting the blue gear may have been chipped but when I told them this happened after charging the battery, this is the response I got:

Tongsheng misprogrammed some 52v motors, and if the voltage is over 55-56 volts or so, they act similar. Fully charged 52v battery is 58.8. So, if that was the problem, it would mean the battery wasn't fully charged first time you put 30 miles on it, and then you fully charged the battery to 58v, and now it doesn't work.

Sounds like we just need to reprogram it.

When it runs with the throttle, does it try to add in an extra jolt/jerk every so often, but otherwise stays barely spinning?

Take a look at the video (link below)... I have strong by step instructions for this... Do you feel comfortable reprogramming it yourself as you see in the video?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10OLNCz4eGUjbEXojD1PfjVeCQTPgOnVe/view?usp=drivesdk


Unfortunatley I don't have the cable required (STlinkV2 ?) and can't source it for the UK, and they don't have one in stock. They are, however, sending me a new controller (free of charge) from China. I'm waiting on their response as to how it will help and not fail again in the future.
So I'll be a couple of weeks still without transport, so I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on alternative fixes or where I can get the cable from? I was thinking if I run the battery down below the 55 volts it may work, but it's not a permanent solution.
 
Yes, that is what I did with my 48v controller and 52v battery. I would undercharge my battery and then it worked ok. About 55.5v is about maximum with a 48v programmed controller. I hook up a volt meter to my battery while it is charging and I made a chart so I know about how long it should take. I let the meter get about 1.5v past my target voltage and then shut it off. Actually mine works up to about 57v if I pedal around slowly with my thumb on the throttle waiting for it to kick on.

The throttle goes into the middle socket on the vlcd5 display. Since they messed up with the controller voltage perhaps they also sent you a 6 pin controller that does not support a throttle.

I just flashed my firmware with the 52v version yesterday. It is now working with a fully charged 52v battery.

Not sure where you are, but maybe someone is nearby that can let you use their cable. Otherwise you can just undercharge your battery by a couple of volts so you are able to use it until the new controller arrives.
 
Depending on the controller, it may be possible to build a "voltage dropper" and insert it in series with the ignition line. The main battery wires would see the full voltage but the voltage going to the logic (possibly in the display) would be a few volts less. The simplest form of this would be to place a bunch of diodes in series. Each diode will drop the voltage by about 0.7v. A TVS diode can do greater drops with a single part. Whatever is used will need to throw off some heat so needs to have enough surface area and some cooling. A resistor could possibly work except the voltage drop would depend on the current, which may vary unpredictably.

Installing the 'dropper circuit' may not be so easy depending on the setup. I am not real familiar with the TZDS2. From the main battery wires, there will be a skinny wire that goes to the display, where the on/off switch lives. This wire needs to be intercepted and cut to install the dropper in series with it. It may be possible to install inside the controller so the wiring does not need to be cut. Sometimes there is an available extension cable for the display you could buy to cut up and install the dropper so you don't need to cut the original cable.
 
Thanks so much for your help guys, i'll try your suggestions today.
Also, any idea on what 'A' setting I should set on the display, with having a 52v battery? Don't want to over load it..
And any suggestions as to how I can run the battery down without a working throttle?
And where did you guys buy your uplink cable from?
 
Good morning,

"A" setting, I assume you mean amps. You can set it at 1 amp or 1,000,000 amps. That setting does NOTHING :) You can change it but it does nothing to the motor. If it worked I think it would be ok up to 16a, but it does not work.

The throttle actually does not run the battery down, but it can help to kick the motor on when the battery is marginally above the high voltage limit. When the battery voltage is over the cutoff voltage the power is restricted to a very small amount. What I was doing when I overcharged my battery was to connect it to the plug of an electric corded drill (or another tool or device that can run at 58).

A better solution is to monitor the battery when charging with a cheap (free at harbor freight usa with a coupon) voltage or multi meter. I would use my kitchen timer and I wrote down battery voltages and then record the time it takes to charge to 57v while on the charger. When I take it off the charger at 57v in a few mins it will drop to 55.5v. Also, some chargers can be opened up and have a setting adjustment screw for max output voltage. I just ordered one myself as I would like to try an even bigger 56v 15s battery but undercharge it to 60-61.5v.

I.e I go for a ride, come back and my battery is 48v. I look at my chart and to go from 48-55.5v it takes my charger 26mins. I set my kitchen timer to 25 mins and then charge. When the timer goes off I connect my volt meter (while it is still charging) and perhaps it will say 56v. I then let it continue until it reaches 57v and then I disconnect the battery from the charger. Over the next hour or so the voltage reading of the battery will level out to around 55.5v which is about the max voltage the 48v flashed controller will accept.

You cannot buy a complete programming cable. You must buy a speed sensor extension cable, then cut the wire on that and use the plug and wire to hook up to a st-link v2 usb device. There are instructions on how to do everything here in another thread. I bought my cable from eco-cycles and a cheap st-link v2 off aliexpress. My st-link is glitchy though ($2 shipped so I should have known!), however it did eventually work.
 
happy_chappy said:
Hi, wondering if anyone can help fix this issue as my bike is my only form of transport!
I bought a 52v 750W TZDS2, VLDC 5 with throttle and 52v 13.6Ah Shark LG Cell Lithium Ion Battery Pack from recycles-ebike.
just read the other thread,
The answers are all there, as is the supplier of your motor !
 
John and Cecil said:
When the battery voltage is over the cutoff voltage the power is restricted to a very small amount. What I was doing when I overcharged my battery was to connect it to the plug of an electric corded drill (or another tool or device that can run at 58).
...
You cannot buy a complete programming cable. You must buy a speed sensor extension cable, then cut the wire on that and use the plug and wire to hook up to a st-link v2 usb device. There are instructions on how to do everything here in another thread. I bought my cable from eco-cycles and a cheap st-link v2 off aliexpress. My st-link is glitchy though ($2 shipped so I should have known!), however it did eventually work.

Thankyou for your help! I've sourced a usb st-link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emulator...357838?hash=item25fa8d5b0e:g:0dYAAOSw~ztbMg21
It's around £5. The one eyebysickle uses in his how-to video is a lot more expensive and is a 2-3 week delivery! So hopefully the one I've found will do the trick? Will I still need to split the 5v cable you think? (As his guide shows https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch )

Thanks for the link to the speed sensor extension cable but If I can't get the cable from the UK I might as well wait for the replacement controller :( But I'm wondering if there is an alternative solution? Couldn't I just poke thin wires into the end of the existing cable connector that goes from the controller to the speed sensor? I guess it would take a bit of trial and error to find the right cables (brown/black/orange/purple).. I have the splitter cable with extension..
tongsheng-motor-conversion-ebike-kittorque-sensor-48v-500w-42t-chainwheelwith-thumb-throttlecutoff-brake.jpg
 
happy_chappy said:
Thankyou for your help! I've sourced a usb st-link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emulator...357838?hash=item25fa8d5b0e:g:0dYAAOSw~ztbMg21
It's around £5. The one eyebysickle uses in his how-to video is a lot more expensive and is a 2-3 week delivery! So hopefully the one I've found will do the trick? Will I still need to split the 5v cable you think? (As his guide shows https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch )

Thanks for the link to the speed sensor extension cable but If I can't get the cable from the UK I might as well wait for the replacement controller :( But I'm wondering if there is an alternative solution? Couldn't I just poke thin wires into the end of the existing cable connector that goes from the controller to the speed sensor? I guess it would take a bit of trial and error to find the right cables (brown/black/orange/purple).. I have the splitter cable with extension..
tongsheng-motor-conversion-ebike-kittorque-sensor-48v-500w-42t-chainwheelwith-thumb-throttlecutoff-brake.jpg

Yes that looks like the one that I got, it is flaky but eventually it did work.

Yes there are other ways to wire it without the cable. You may be able to poke wires in there if you are careful. You can also take the side cover off and attach the wires inside directly to the wires on the controller. You cannot use the light cable or even the plug on the speed sensor itself, because supposedly neither have all the wires that you need running through them. Only the extension cable supposedly has all the required wires, which does not make much sense to me but that is what the people in the know are saying!

There is an instruction set showing what wires go where, I will look and post the link in a few mins.
 
Ok, here you go. Follow the instructions up until the point where they ask you to manually edit the 2nd and 3rd set as that method no longer works. Then follow the instructions in the video to upload the new program and data files into the motor. I believe the wire colors are the same on the extension cable and on the controller.

Wiring st-link to motor and running program instructions and where to download the files:

https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch

Video showing how to upload both files into the motor:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10OLNCz4eGUjbEXojD1PfjVeCQTPgOnVe/view

Additional files needed:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11ftlg1ApGYq3AmzagL9M4wpY4c71sizK/view

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yo2AqWrd7Adg2vV8HC5S5Zcgi53pwkcl/view

The forum user Eyebyesickle posted all these links as far as I know. I am just re-posting the links but props to Eye for all the great help!
 
Thanks JC! I've bought the st-link and will take the cover off the controller as you suggest once I find the info within the 168 pages! Be good to get it working this way and learn to tinker with the firmware updates.
I'm currently slowly discharging the battery (about 0.1V every 30 minutes!) by hooking up to the only thing I could find - a soldering iron. So hopefully I can get it down to the magic voltage and then only charge up to the same until the controller arrives.
 
Here is a video on replacing the blue gear, and it is done from the same side as the controller so it should be helpful. I think if you get to the point where he removes the gear you will have access to all the controller wires that you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTbDKN2GzNE

Note: He does not seem to be using the side support bracket in the video. Be sure to use that support! Some users have completely cracked their motor housing by not using that bracket.
 
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