SUCCESS!amberwolf wrote:Not in my experience. Most of the cheaper aluminum frames are really thick tubing and end up weighing the same as a good butted-steel-tubing frame, though there are very thin/light aluminum frames they usually are expensive. I have one of those used from someone else, but the toptube is dented to a point that it could potentially collapse under the wrong kind of stress. I think it was a Giant brand, cant' remember for sure.glenn0010 wrote: That's true a steel frame would be much easier to work with but then there is a weight issue.
I don't recall the actual weight but the frame on my DayGlo Avenger is at least as heavy as the one on my old steel Nishiki.
Oh, there's been lots of full-suspension or front-suspension steel bikes; some are good suspension components and some are junk.Also most steel bikes are quite old so they'd have no front suspension.
You can swap lots of parts around. How do you figure I got front suspension on my CrazyBike2 and SB Cruiser?Though I guess I could swap the suspension from my current bike if the fittings are the same (have no idea about bike standards)
And if the headtube is the wrong size on the steel bike, you can just swap it out for one that is the right size (I did this on CB2, welding the new one on in front of the old one, so I could use either as needed for experiments).
As for standards, and other bike repair/maintenance info, http://sheldonbrown.com is my first recommendation.
Then any stress on the back is passed not thru the tubing but across it's surface, and only under the clamps themselves. Eventually it'll probably either crush the tubing or cause stress fractures, but you'd have to test it to find out.Another idea I had was to chop the frame and make 2 steel clamps that clamp around the aluminium seat tube and then go to steel for the back of the bike. Though I would question the durability of such a design.
Designing the clamps so you don't get any side-to-side waggle is another problem to conquer....
This is essentially teh problem I had with DayGlo Avenger's added-on cargo rack/pod, and what eventually cracked the seatstay.
My bike made the 34 Km round trip to uni took me only about 35 min each way which is great.
I can confirm that my BMS is cutting out due to voltage sag. When the battery is fully charged I have to give quite a lot of throttle for the BMS to cut out but as the battery is drained the BMS cuts out much earlier. that's what you get I guess for Chinese cells.
Now I want to save up to upgrade! This is addicting.
I want to save some money to upgrade. But don't know which direction to go.
So I want a new battery for sure.
I can chop the frame or get a steel frame and mount the mid drive behind the seat tube and install a new battery.
Or get a 3kW hubmotor @ 72V and a new battery and charger and possibly mod my controllet, new fets and caps to handle 72V. But this will be really expensive.
Would be nice if I can go slightly faster. Else I can make a 48V battery which can supply more current and put a larger drive sprocket on the motor