Trouble Shooting Problem

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markz
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Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by markz » May 17, 2017 3:36 pm

Problem - When I twist the throttle it moves forward for a second then the power cuts off, but if I baby it and twist very slowly I can get it up to speed, which was rare when it first happened 2 days ago, but 1 day ago it happened more frequently and I could baby it to where I was going to.

The voltage is 36V and the LVC is set to 28V though it tends to act on 30V. I will try a fresh 40V battery, but I was thinking maybe its a hall sensor. Is that a symptom?

Direct Drive with a 36V pack which is 41.5V when its right off the charger so its 10S.

Oh shit, I will look at the wiring coming out of the motor, I remember seeing a nick on the outter jacket holding all the wires in. I gotta open it back up again, will do that right away.

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motomech
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by motomech » May 17, 2017 3:42 pm

You will need to ck continuity from the solder points on the PCB to the pins in the connector.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, 2.4 Holly Rollers run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-48A
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'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 12S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 17A controller. 20 MPH.
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markz
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by markz » May 17, 2017 4:49 pm

Are all 3 phase wires suppose to have continuity with each other?
Because thats what I am getting, on the motor, everything disconnected from controller.
I suppose they do otherwise it would run at all.
Fixed the scuff marks and looked at the wire runs, looks good.

I dont think those little scuff marks are the problem. I am going to charge up that battery and go through the controllers settings.

I also checked continuity between all 5 sense wires, they are all isolated.
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motomech
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by motomech » May 17, 2017 7:11 pm

not continuity BETWEEN wires, continuity for one wire, end to end(PBC solder point to connector pin).
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, 2.4 Holly Rollers run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-48A
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 12S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 17A controller. 20 MPH.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 8#p1237928

markz
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by markz » May 18, 2017 11:01 pm

It was weird because I could hear the controller cut off like its at LVC, but I checked the settings for LVC and the battery voltage. I would go for literally a second then it would cut out. Othertimes if I babied it, I could go like normal, but if I gunned it or did any sudden movements with the throttle it would cutout.

Pinched throttle wires causing the bump and stop (described above in more detail) which is what I was kinda thinking. But I was thinking I frocked up the handle bar throttle, not the wires. Because I would put the bike upside down to work on it sometimes, and just thought the throttle was crap or soemthing. Nothing stood out that I roughed it up or anything. So I am totally unsure how the throttle wires got pinched and/or pulled.

Today it stopped on the LCD display wire.

All very interesting, very very very interesting.
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Last edited by markz on May 18, 2017 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

markz
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by markz » May 18, 2017 11:02 pm

I was going to say China QC fault, but they were stretched so users fault. I am thinking the seat springs did the LCD display wire, or it stretched out. I cant say what did the throttle wires, maybe some stretch action but it looks like something more then that.

markz
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by markz » May 19, 2017 11:46 pm

I will have a closer look inside the controller tomorrow, but its still happening every time. Good thing is at startup I can baby it just enough to get it up to speed so it stays up to speed if you know what I mean. Whereas before I would try to baby it but it would never get up to speed and be good for a bit.

From my EM3EV Brushless Motor/Cont tester it looks as though my halls are fine. Obviously the phases are fine. I think if either one was off, I would never be able to go any distance at all.

So I am thinking def a pinched wire or look back at the throttle again. If the rim was bad, I bet the throttle is junk too.

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MadRhino
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by MadRhino » May 20, 2017 2:04 pm

Disconnect e-brakes if you have some.
Disconnect all accessories but throttle.
Check if throttle works. If it is, check e-brakes.
If it isn't: Short throttle signal at the controller throttle connector (after you lift the wheel off the ground)
motor should spin full throttle.
If it is, your throttle circuit is at fault (connectors, wires, or throttle itself).
If it isn't, the problem is either at the controller or the motor circuit.
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
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markz
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Re: Trouble Shooting Problem

Post by markz » May 20, 2017 9:15 pm

I am thinking its to due with the KT Display programming features of P or C.
Because.....
A) When I get it going from a stop, and it doesnt cut out, it goes normally.
B) The cruise function works good, when the throttle isnt moved for 5 seconds it stays, until more watts is required then it cuts out.
C) I changed one setting about the "handle bar" and this quirk started to happen.
D) Its not a "pull to many ampere's" problem (or LVC), because I can pull 800W or 1200W+ going normally so thats about 35V so about 30ish amps.

Its to due with throttle or PAS.

BTW I never installed PAS, nor have I installed the cutoff brake levers. But typing this just got me another idea, I will check to see those wires hanging off the controller. I doubt its a problem.

But I will try your suggestions and see what becomes of it all.

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