Loving the ebike life but wishing for a full suspension bike...

Philaphlous said:
Yea it was kinda nuts earlier this week when some dude flew past me with out of state plates and I was Goin 33mph and he musta been going at least 45...in a 25. Your asking for bad things...

I'm hoping if all goes well to get at modding my controller this weekend. We shall see!

I'm less concerned about how fast cars that pass me are going and more concerned with whether they pass with at least three (preferably more) feet of clearance.
 
wturber said:
I'm less concerned about how fast cars that pass me are going and more concerned with whether they pass with at least three (preferably more) feet of clearance.
This can help:

https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37813&p=550771&hilit=light+bar#p550771

:)
 
Definitely not going to be able to mod the controller this weekend... I can't get at the shunts very well with just taking off the side of the controller...so I'll need to disassemble the entire thing... I'll only do that when I'm ready to rebuild my battery box since the controller is bolted into the box and frame right now.

So according to some measurements, the 9C clone that I've got has a 30mm stator.... the edge to edge area where the spokes hookup are 1.375ish" between which best I can find is 35mm which translates to a 30mm stator....with the 30mm stator it looks like the motor can support upto 2000w~?
 
amberwolf said:
wturber said:
I'm less concerned about how fast cars that pass me are going and more concerned with whether they pass with at least three (preferably more) feet of clearance.
This can help:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37813&p=550771&hilit=light+bar#p550771

:)
If it came to that, I'd find a different route or stop riding.
As it is, Scottsdale drivers are about 99.8% super good about passing with good margin. But those 0.02% are still there.
 
Philaphlous said:
So according to some measurements, the 9C clone that I've got has a 30mm stator.... the edge to edge area where the spokes hookup are 1.375ish" between which best I can find is 35mm which translates to a 30mm stator....with the 30mm stator it looks like the motor can support upto 2000w~?

Probably. The main issue is usually overheating. So add some Statorade® for added cooling. That should give you a bit more room to play with power.
 
The stator is just the part inside the motor with the metal laminations, where the windings are. It's probably only 28mm, if it's a common 9C/clone type. That's the reason for the common designation 2807 for a 7-turn, or 2810 for a 10-turn, etc.

The magnets may be wider or narrower than that; whatever the narrowest of the two (stator or magnets) is the effective "width" of the motor, as far as torque production goes (or passing heat using Statorade).


Most of these motors are easily capable of 1000-1500w, as long as they're doing that at a fast enough RPM to be in their efficient zone for the voltage they're being run at. If bogged down at those power levels, they'll overheat and burn up eventually. (see http://ebikes.ca/simulator )

You can probably even run bursts of 2000w+, but it might not run all day that way.

Higher power...depends. At some point, you run into the point at which more current thru the windings just creates heat (saturation). It's different for each motor design and winding count.
 
It is amazing how much power a DD hub can survive for short bursts in acceleration. About 10 times the continuous power rating. :twisted:
 
Well I did a nice little trek this morning. Biked the entire natl mall and past some other places... It says my entire route to work is 13.7mi 1 way. I went 12.6mi today round trip and that got me down to 50V even from 54.5V... Pretty good I'd say! It's crazy how far 6.3mi is in the middle of a city like DC...I went from 1 side of the city to the other...

At one point about 5/8ths through my trek my throttle started skipping out...I was like 'ohhh shhhh".... but turns out, the deans connector I use for my battery just came unplugged from the controller... QUick and easy fix! Saved me because pedaling an ebike anywhere with no assistance would be brutal!
 
Yep. Mileage in city stop and go is like 3 times the same distance on a coutry road, because in actual time riding, it is. :wink:

Secure all your connectors. A failure on the way to work is three times the hassle too. 5 times if under the rain.
 
Just went to get back on the bike... Flat tire. Ugh... Doesn't look like any damage or I ran over something so I'm guessing maybe either the stem or puncture from a spoke going over a bump? Good thing I've got 2 extra tubes on standby...
 
Philaphlous said:
Saved me because pedaling an ebike anywhere with no assistance would be brutal!

If/when that does happen, just shift to a low gear and take your time. This and steep hills are two reasons to make sure you have a couple of really low gears in your drivetrain.

Range will vary greatly on how fast you go as well as how many stops and hills you encounter. Keep typical speeds to 20 mph on flat terrain and you can go surprisingly far - probably consuming around 15 watt hours per mile. Typical speeds of 25 mph adds another 10 watt hours per mile. Take it to 30 mph, and you've added another 12.5 watt hours per mile. So a 50% speed increase consumes about 150% more energy. If your range at 20 mph is 60 miles, then at 30 mph it's about 24 miles.

This all assumes that you are adding a moderate amount of pedal assist and your motor winding is similar to a 9C+ 2706 (which mine seems to be). But even with different motors, the general trend is basically the same.
 
Philaphlous said:
Just went to get back on the bike... Flat tire. Ugh... Doesn't look like any damage or I ran over something so I'm guessing maybe either the stem or puncture from a spoke going over a bump? Good thing I've got 2 extra tubes on standby...

Often tough to say until you get the tire and tube off of the bike.
 
Philaphlous said:
Just went to get back on the bike... Flat tire. Ugh... Doesn't look like any damage or I ran over something so I'm guessing maybe either the stem or puncture from a spoke going over a bump? Good thing I've got 2 extra tubes on standby...

The overwhelming majority of flats are either foreign objects (glass, thorns, wires) or pinch flats from underinflation. If your puncture is on the inside of the tube, facing the hub, then it's probably a fault in the rim strip.

Inflate the tube by itself and try to find the puncture. And before you install the new time, be sure to feel carefully all around the inside of the tire for any sharp objects you might not be able to see on the outside.
 
Ended up being a defective tube... Ended up having a little tear along the seam on the outside of the tube... Good thing we don't trust that company for producing any other tear resistant items or else.... :roll:
 
Good grief... 2nd flat in 2 days... this time it was a sliver of glass in the tire. I'm guessing it might have been from the 1st flat and I didn't do a good enough job checking the tire... it's so tiny I ended up using some krazyglue and melted the little slit shut with my soldering iron on the tire and changed out the inner tube. Going to get a replacement tire just in case and a few more inner tubes...

My fault... I'm riding in our back alley that's filled with glass on the ground....lesson learned... :oops:
 
Philaphlous said:
Good grief... 2nd flat in 2 days... this time it was a sliver of glass in the tire. I'm guessing it might have been from the 1st flat and I didn't do a good enough job checking the tire... it's so tiny I ended up using some krazyglue and melted the little slit shut with my soldering iron on the tire and changed out the inner tube. Going to get a replacement tire just in case and a few more inner tubes...

My fault... I'm riding in our back alley that's filled with glass on the ground....lesson learned... :oops:

There may be better ways, but for small to medium sized tire damage I'll glue a tube patch to the inside of the tire - usually a medium to large sized one. That usually distributes the inflation pressure well enough to make a lasting repair. Though at a certain size of damage, I just punt and get a new tire.

Also, when I remove a tire and tube to check out a flat, I'll usually mark (chalk or masking tape) the tire where the valve stem is before un-mounting the tire. That way when I do find the puncture(s), I know the area of the tire to look at with extra care.
 
What is the tire that you have?
What is the PSI that you ride?

Bigger tires, better casing, lower PSI= better puncture resistance

Use wire beaded tires the widest that you frame does clear. Choose them Dual Ply if you can, or 120 tpi single ply. Use DH tubes of the proper size, add 4oz of green slime if your terrain is hard on tires.
 
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I run about 50-55psi on 60psi tires.

I believe they're the kenda 838 slicks. They're wire bead. The puncture is about 1-2mm max
 
So I'm going to put a little more money in the bike now instead of looking for something different...

Going to get a new chain and rear derailluer since both are currently rusted on my bike... I will pickup a patch kit but I think I'll be OK from now on. I should probably do a good job of inspecting my rear tire...

I'm also hoping to drop the 3 chairings in the front to 1 since I threw away my front derailluer...

I actually want to work on the bike so it looks half way decent and also functions as a bike and doesn't creek to high heaven when I try to pedal...you know....to get some exercise
 
Philaphlous said:
I run about 50-55psi on 60psi tires.
I believe you could ride them much lower PSI, if your if your rims are wide especially. They would have a much better puncture resistance.
 
I've got super narrow rims.. They're stock trek rims on the 800...

I actually checked the tire pressure and no wonder why it was so hard pedaling yesterday... I was at 30psi on the rear and I guess my front was at 45. I brought them back upto 55-60psi and now they ride great!

So I'm not sure if anyone else has had this problem before with a hub motor but my absolute pos rear derailluer is rubbing on my hub motor when I'm trying to change into a high gear... It runs along the outer edge of the hub motor and won't allow me to shift into the highest gear. I'm surprised the derailluer even still works... Im picking up a new one today...and a chain. My chain is almost completely rusted. Lol.
 
Philaphlous said:
I've got super narrow rims.. They're stock trek rims on the 800...

I actually checked the tire pressure and no wonder why it was so hard pedaling yesterday... I was at 30psi on the rear and I guess my front was at 45. I brought them back upto 55-60psi and now they ride great!

So I'm not sure if anyone else has had this problem before with a hub motor but my absolute pos rear derailluer is rubbing on my hub motor when I'm trying to change into a high gear... It runs along the outer edge of the hub motor and won't allow me to shift into the highest gear. I'm surprised the derailluer even still works... Im picking up a new one today...and a chain. My chain is almost completely rusted. Lol.
You mean lowest gear (largest diameter cog nearest the hub)? If so, yes. I've set the derailer stop gear to keep me out of that gear. That is also one reason to keep at least one of your three smaller chainrings. If you ever do face a particularly steep or long hill and need a granny gear, having a small front chainring will be a blessing. Even if you do have to move the chain down to it by hand. BTW, I've kept my front derailer because I don't see much advantage in removing it. Neither the reduction in weight nor the handlebar space is that valuable to me.
 
"Flat guard" tires are worth their weight in gold on an Ebike.
The one thing I didn't like was the "squirmy" feeling the belt imparted to the rider on the Schwable and Forte tires I used in the past.
But recently, I switched to the WTB Thickslicks, which have a thinner thread and feel almost like reg. bicycle tires. Probably the best investment I have made concerning ebikes and I wish the were avail. for my 2WD which uses 24" X 2.5" tires.
 
Loving the ebike life

Indeed its a good life!
1) No Insurance Payments
2) No Fuel Costs
3) No Vehicle Repairs
4) No Broken or Cracked Windshields To Be Fixed
5) No Insurance Deductables
6) "Less" (yes Less in quotes) Road Rage Incidences
7) No Parking Payments

What I love is being able to ride up or down river and cast a line.
Hopping on the train and going to the other end of town, or choosing to ride there.
Getting the amazed stares from onlookers.
 
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