new eZip motor

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 18 2020 2:29pm

Find a cheap drill press to drill out the bolts. You may be able to go slighltly larger and retap.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-sp ... 60238.html
Use it and return it, HF has pretty good return policy.
Remember to buy good quality drill bits. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?or ... ill%20bits
Tap set - https://www.harborfreight.com/search?or ... =tap%20set
Oil - https://www.harborfreight.com/12-oz-thr ... 92581.html

Go nice and slow on the drilling out, and do a lot of up and down movement while drilling. Heck, even use that oil when drilling.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by 99t4 » Nov 18 2020 3:33pm

You are funny. :lol:
latecurtis wrote:
Nov 18 2020 11:35am
I might invest in a quality tap and die set at Harbor freight.
Quality + Harbor Freight = Mutually Exclusive.

Yes I also shop there and use their tools but do not pretend or rely on them being quality.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 18 2020 4:36pm

99t4 wrote:
Nov 18 2020 3:33pm
You are funny. :lol:
latecurtis wrote:
Nov 18 2020 11:35am
I might invest in a quality tap and die set at Harbor freight.
Quality + Harbor Freight = Mutually Exclusive.

Yes I also shop there and use their tools but do not pretend or rely on them being quality.
True that!
HarborFright has cheap tools for limited use.
Quality tools are expensive, Mac Tools, Klein Tools, Snap-On are all sure nice to have but lesser grade tools will hold up just as fine. The expensive brand name tool sets are just loyalists, like Ford fans vs Dodge fans.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 18 2020 4:40pm

As you know I have my limitations when it comes to being mechanically inclined. I did find a different Allen key. I thought it was the correct size but was not or it could be the black Allen key in the picture is just wore a little and is stripping the bolts. I got all the bolts out but the first one I stripped and it is daytime now and I can run my power drill so took about 3 minutes to drill it out.

It don't matter though as the cover will not come out without the entire inner magnet assembly. I do not want to do that as will probably cut my finger off putting it back in or will damage the magnets. I doubt it would matter any way as the cover would still be in the way. I really do not know how it was assembled as it don't seem possible to solder those 8 wires from the top where the wires come out the axle. All the solder joints are on the other side.

It would be cake to push the wires up thru if the bottom cover could be removed without pulling out the center magnet assembly. I cut open an old landline phone cable and has four wires and are the same colors but I need 5 wires. The blue sensor wire would have to be run separate defeating my purpose. There really is not much more I can do.

Also the yellow sensor wire should be replaced completely from the solder joint as it is not in good condition. It is why I wanted to remove the bottom cover and re solder all the connections to a new harness or just run brand new wires and have all 5 sensor wires in a casing like a landline phone line but 4 wires wont work and cant get the bottom cover off so that is it.

I can send it out to someone for parts I guess if someone knows a trick on how to get that back cover off without pulling the center completely out. I do think that it is not entirely my fault. 50% or more of the problem is just piss poor design. I see hub motors where all the wires go completely thru the axle as the axle is hallow. That would be better but if the bottom cover would just come off it would be simple to re solder all the connections and feed the wires up thru or even feed them from the top thru and solder them from the bottom.

I am not sure what to do with it. Not sure how much shipping is either. I would ship it out to someone but not willing to spend more than 20 bucks. It is probably more than that as it is heavy.

Please let me know what , if any options I have left.

Thanks.

LC. out
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I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 18 2020 7:43pm

The assembler sometimes uses the cheapest bolt they can find and they always get crusted over time when tightened.

So you probably used a SAE allen key on a Metric bolt.
SAE's are a little smaller then Metric, and I've been there before. Mine always came out and when it was to much torque for my liking I would find the correct Metric allen key so I wouldn't strip the head.

Take freewheel off cover plate
Tap the axle to remove the rotor from stator

Giving you a nice flat surface to work on the stator and cover plate.

Grind head off bolt with a grinder

Drill bolt out with a drill and good quality drill bit, start off small, let the bit do its work and do lots of up and downs and I'd even buy some drilling and tap oil.

Re tap to same size or if theres room one size larger

I wouldn't say that is a lot of work, time consuming depending on how many bolts you buggered up and how easy they are to drill.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 18 2020 8:50pm

Take freewheel off cover plate
It is a front drive.

I am already past that. The top cover or motor side where the wires come out is off but two out of 8 bolts broke off but 6 are intact.

On the other side opposite of the wires all but one bolt came out. I drilled it but the cover wont come off like the wire side did.

The big failure on my part was putting the cover back on the wire side. I tried three times last night and got more broken sensor wires. Also The yellow sensor wire is ragged and I wanted to replace it. Actually I wanted to feed all new wires motor and sensor and solder them to the copper coils where the old wires go but can not get the bottom cover off opposite the side the wires come out. The entire inner magnet assembly wants to come out with the cover. I do not want to mess with that. It is where I draw the line.

I really do not want to work on it any more. I want all brand new wires but they will never fit in the small space allowed. The best way is to feed the wires down thru into the motor from the top with the cover almost on. Then solder them to where they go on the opposite side.

I really do not know what to do with it at this point. I would send it out in the mail but probably would cost too much for shipping. If I ever make a trip to NY I would be willing to drop it off if DA. could fix it. I just want new wires and get it back together. I would be willing to pay 80 bucks or so to get it fixed. If I could get the bottom cover off and have access to the solder joints for the wires I would fix it myself.

I picked up the 20" bike at the bike shop tonight. They installed front and rear brakes. I will be able to shoot video soon if the weather is good. I have other bikes to deal with. I am going to be working on the Giant Roam also.

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 18 2020 10:23pm

latecurtis wrote:
Nov 18 2020 8:50pm
Take freewheel off cover plate
It is a front drive.

I am already past that. The top cover or motor side where the wires come out is off but two out of 8 bolts broke off but 6 are intact.
Ah ok, I missed the front motor part. I just saw the picture you posted of the one cover off facing up towards camera and the cover on facing ground.

Honestly, if its just two bolts - grind the heads off, take the cover off, grind down the rest flush and leave it be!
Thats what I'd do if taking the broken bolts out is to much work, or you don't have the time and need to ride asap or lazy.
Having two unused bolt holes that are on opposite sides would be the most ideal, having two that are side by side is less ideal. To prevent water ingress, a nice gob of rtv sealant or whatever ES search provides the answer, for around the cover plate.

"Fishing" the wire through the axle can be a daunting task, depending on how thick your phase wires are, and how stiff your wires are. You could go smaller wire diameter (higher gauge) and its easier to fish through but handles less power before heating up the wire, or you can try to stuff as much wire as you can. See the wires have to turn 90 degrees and once you get two wires in there the 3rd is the beeeeatch! If your doing sense wires and a temp wire, throw those in first with plenty of wire on either side of the axle, talking feets worth.

ES user Icecube57 had a mxus 3kw and always used stock wires exiting the axle then jumped to 10awg wire from axle to controller.

Soldering phase wires to winding wires you'll need a high powered soldering iron. I did a 10awg wire swap of ptfe teflon from windings through axle and 3' from exit. I scraped the winding wires to get more beef on the solder joint. The problem I had was sometimes a stray winding wire would poke out so I used locking pliers and lots of solder. And hey, dont forget to insulate that winding to phase wire joint. Lots a heat shrink. And most importantly remember to shove those joints into the middle of the stator so it dont rub on cover plate, zip ties bro. While at it, replace halls, which you talked about. But for anyone else its good, good resource for anyone else reading this https://ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html

One way to do it is do the phase wires to windings first, then you got to fish from 90 degree first to axle exit.

You can fish from either direction, which ever works best is whats gotta happen.

I found it easier to fish from exit to 90 degree, then you can have lots and lots of wire for a big loop from 90 to winding, slip heat shrink in, I did 3 pieces for each wire about 1" in length. Remember if your heat shrink is to close to the soldering area your heat shrink will well shrink, thats why you fish a ton of wire through the axle, and have lots and lots of wire just hanging out because you cant fish heat shrink through the axle to fit over winding joint. And you can have the heat shrink well away from soldering area. LOL Thats a lot of talk, should make sense. 90 degree bend is inside the motor, axle exit is where your wires damaged.

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latecurtis   1 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 18 2020 10:44pm

Ah ok, I missed the front motor part. I just saw the picture you posted of the one cover off facing up towards camera and the cover on facing ground.
All the bolts are off the cover facing ground. It wont come off without taking the center magnet assembly with it.

I soldered and re soldered sensor wires last night and attempted three times to put the cover back on just to have more broken sensor wires.

I can't do it that way. It does not work for me.

The only way I could do it requires removing the bottom cover but it wont come off without the magnet assembly.

If it did come off I could just put the top cover almost all the way on and feed wire down thru the opening and solder them to the bottom on the other side.

I do not feel like working on it any more. It is way too frustrating and I have high blood pressure and heart disease. I do not know if it can ever be fixed if the bottom plate will not come off. It is NOT the bolts. It is the fact the bottom cover does not come off without the entire motor coming apart and I am not willing to do all that.

Not sure if there is a way or not. I do not see one. I am done trying to feed the wires up thru the bottom.

Thing is I have the controller already mounted plus extra spokes that only fit that size hub motor. It has been about 6 or 7 years and don't even know if I could get the same exact size for those spokes. It would be worth 100 to 120 bucks to get it rebuilt with a new axle and cover for a rear wheel drive and brand new wiring. It would be like a brand new motor and a brand new 26" kit is 170 bucks at the cheapest.

I would send it out to have it done if anyone is willing to do it but the cost of shipping could be the deal breaker if the total is over 150 bucks.

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 19 2020 2:28am

Hmmm I see I see
It wont come off without taking the center magnet assembly with it.
The only way I could do it requires removing the bottom cover but it wont come off without the magnet assembly.
Motors that have just one removable side cover with the other cover as apart of the rotor magnet ring.

Some hub motors do come with a c-clip, with a groove on the shaft and c-clip holding the cover taught even with the bolts off not holding the cover plate on. My MXUS 3kw had a c-clip, though once I had it apart, I never re used it so that might be a reason why a bearing went on one side and I had to spend $6 from a local transmission shop (TLC).


Interesting - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0050/ ... 1559626128

Bafang has one removable cover, betcha its c-clipped, zooming in looks like it does - https://wxalbum-10001658.image.myqcloud ... 6c997d.JPG

Interesting cover plate design, spoke holes on cover not magnet ring.
https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1A6liSFXX ... XFXXXK.jpg

More prevelant then I thought, so yeah c-clip action.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1616/ ... 1591724684

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latecurtis   1 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 19 2020 4:13am

Some hub motors do come with a c-clip, with a groove on the shaft and c-clip holding the cover taught even with the bolts off not holding the cover plate on.
Yea. Looked. Don't see it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3odOWb ... e=youtu.be

All the wires are there and intact. Had 4 sensor wires hooked to landline phone jack and was going to start solder but realized no shrink tubes. Pack was assorted and used the small ones last night so pulled it back apart. Out of the thin solder also and the thick solder sucks.

I Have to put it in a corner on time out for awhile. IT is not a total loss yet as I did solder three black wires to one 24 hours ago as they came unhooked somehow trying to put the cover on.

I can fix the wires but am not going to try and put the cover back on. It will sit there forever if I can't find someone else to try it. I already got three strikes trying it and am done.

Moving on to other bikes. I feel like just throwing it in a dumpster. :x

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

6:01 AM. - 11 / 19 / 20

I am thinking about how I can become smarter than a hub motor. One of my old redneck friends that died a few years back used to say you have to be smarter than some inanimate object that seems to be impossible to bend to your will. There is a way to run the wires up from the bottom. If I can not remove a cover > (top or bottom) I could cut out a large enough section with a power tool to still access the inside of the motor to get my hands on the wires and push them thru. This method applies to top or bottom cover. Soldering from the bottom also if required. Once it is done I could use JB weld or a welder to attach that piece I cut out back on. :idea: I just have to figure what special tool can accomplish this.

Also if someone had a 3D printer that could print a hard plastic , the covers for hub motors could be printed for easy quick access to the motor for repairs or upgrades. :!: Beer makes me think about stuff.

Does anyone else have an idea ?

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

6:41 AM.

Before that though is another way , less effort. If I could get all 8 wires together somehow with glue or some thing and attach a fish line I might be able to pull the wires thru with the top cover attached.

The solution is being smarter than a hub motor.

I miss my friend Dave. God bless his soul. It was another thing he liked to say especially when he was drunk. He was an asshole most of the time but we grew up together and I miss him. He died from throat cancer like my father. Cigarettes'. He would have died from drinking anyway but might have lasted a few more years.

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DAND214 » Nov 19 2020 8:09am

have you tried turning the motor with the cover up and tapping on the axle with a piece of wood and hammer. The cover might just be rusted stuck on the axle. have done it before when the cover won't slide off. The rotor might move a little in the magnet ring but won't fall out unless you push it out.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/ Just something to look at. haven't bought from them but they are all used or older stock. Motors are all used but real cheap. Just take a look. I might consider the 12s packs/ 72 cell in 6 packs. Don't go nuts as I said I know nothing about them.


Dan

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by tomjasz » Nov 19 2020 1:37pm

quality tap and die set at Harbor freight.

Oxymoron.

I buy the taps I need as I need them. Instead of sets with sizes I'll never use.
Thanks Justin_le we're here thanks to you. All the best to the mods for their tireless work keeping it on an even keel.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 19 2020 4:00pm

I would not be surprised if you guys know more about hub motors that most people who work in bike shops. In fact I will be finding out at some point in the future.

As you see all I need is time , shrink tubes , and the thin solder and wires and it will be ready for the top cover.

That is when I show up at Pete's electric bikes.

https://electric-petes-e-bikes.business.site/

I guess we will find out. He may just be selling bikes and not able to fix motors. I know he is older and claimed he can true any hub motor when Ernie's bike shop said they could not true hub motors. That was a guy in North Canton though. They did not say that in Massillon. There at 3 or 4 Ernie's bike shops I think. They all are friendly professionals but not all know about e bikes, They said just bring it in and we will take a look.

I need a break from that hub motor for now. I plan on working on the Giant Roam the rest of the week and shooting video of the 20" bike with the 1,800 watt brushless motor with the 1,500 watt controller.

I feel like I am beating my head against a brick wall with that hub motor. It is frustrating and do not feel like messing with it for awhile. I will find out what shipping is. Perhaps someone can use it who knows how to put it back together. Not sure about shipping though. Probably a lot. I will ask the next time I go to the post office to get a package.

I am looking at a cheap hub motor which will work with that controller as the controller is mounted on the side of the battery rack and ready for a motor. I would rather have a rear hub motor anyway as front motors get bent rims if you hit a pot hole or something. The front wheel takes the brunt of the blow. Also a rear motor is better up hills and on slippery roads. I doubt I ever will order a front hub motor unless I plan on another dual wheel e bike. I already have that though once I get the Giant roam together.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMC-900W-REAR- ... Swcw1eV291

I like that. Geared hub motors are way better than direct drive. It is why I am building the Giant Roam with two 500 watt e bikeling hub motors. I would also buy a MAC. I might get a 1,500W rear direct drive if I can get free shipping and under 200 bucks but think next month I will order that. A 900 watt GEARED hub motor should run circles around ant 1,000 watt direct drive.


Thanks.

LC. out.
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I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 19 2020 5:09pm

Geared hub motors are way better than direct drive.
All depends on what and how your using the hub motor. Geared hub motors are good in some respects but direct drive motors are way better in other aspects.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 19 2020 5:19pm

Well. I ran a 500 watt rear e bikeling motor exclusively about 14 months or so as all my e bikes were in storage 500 miles away until August.

The bike was the 26" dual suspension steel frame. I weigh about 230 pounds and fortunately it had pedal gears so pedal assisted going up hills.

Hills are the only weakness of geared hub motors. Pound for pound it is like a wolverine compared to a grey wolf. The geared hub motors are tiny but powerful for their size and surprisingly the plastic gears seem to hold up over time.

I decided that two is better than one though especially going up hills so it is the logic behind the Giant Roam. On the flat there is no need for the rear motor as it is on a 26" wheel and would just hold back the front motor which is a 700C wheel.

Since there are not nearly as many steep hills around here I can use my older 10S Lithium pack which is 10P but operating at about 50% or less capacity as it is about 5 years old and probably 800+ to 1,000 cycles. Not sure.

The front will get my 10S - 8P new packs and will be used about 70% of the time exclusively.

I will be working on it tonight.

Thanks.

LC. out.

11/ 19 / 20 - 7:38 PM.
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Yea. Something is not right with that 900 watt geared hub motor. I am not wasting my money on it.

It should be at least 28 mph. A 1,000 watt direct drive is 28 mph and I am sure that the 500 watt e bikeling 700c hub motor goes faster than 22 mph because I ran it several times in NY. Easy Street was a fast bike. I am looking at a MAC maybe for the back of easy street in the future. I am looking at a 1,500 watt 600 rpm direct drive for the heavy 26" dual suspension I was going to put the 1,000 watt hub motor that is apart on. . My guess would be 24 mph for the 700 cc e bikeling motor. I have a speedo. so will know soon after I get the front wheel on it.

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DrkAngel » Nov 20 2020 6:33am

latecurtis wrote:
Nov 19 2020 5:19pm
Yea. Something is not right with that 900 watt geared hub motor. I am not wasting my money on it.
36V x 25A = 900w motor (input)
Looks to be a near optimal "500w" {output) ebike motor!
Near the recommended 200% watt input capability for hill climbing torque.
Being "geared" for 20mph means that it has the torque-power of a "750w" motor geared for 30mph, with much improved efficiency and, likely, torque for hills ... though, of course, limited to the "legal" 20mph.
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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DAND214 » Nov 20 2020 10:57am

That is cheap for a BMC kt. Especially from Hi-Power. A BMC is almost the same as a MAC. Mac copied and upgraded it. Mac offers a few more wind options. As for what's worth I have both. A BMC was my first Geared hub motor and I still have one on my wife's bike. I think it's about 8 yers of limited use. the controller isn't the greatest but did work.

As I said before I really like my MACs. I now have 7 MACs. Some in need repair being HALL sensors and new wiring but I know 4/5 are running. I gave up on the DD hubs as they are too heavy for me.

As for bent wheels due to a pothole, the most weight is on the rear wheel and if not trued and tensioned properly I would of bent many. The front wheel in most cases just bounces over the hole while the rear really hits it hard.

That deal isn't bad but needs a weel and spokes which adds another $100+ to the price. Still not a bad deal. Only concern is the seller is a little hard to deal with any problems you might have. Like a blown controller!

Dan

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 20 2020 3:40pm

I saw those BMC motors for sale by HPC months ago. I believe the cheaper ones might be older versions of BMC. Some might be new old stock v1's, others could be v2's. This article was found instantly.
https://www.electricbike.com/bmc-hub-motor-review/ by Eric Hicks. His websites always come up first, great advertiser.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Nov 20 2020 9:25pm

I've done the same thing, also had it where the cover bearing was buggered and stuck the cover to the magnet ring.
I have also seen pictures where the inside of the motor was rusted bad from water ingression and the cover groove lip stuck to the magnet ring real bad. Maybe two different materials causing that sticksation, water rusting out the inside. Could also be someone just used a wrong product so instead of sealant they used expoxy. Maybe the cover was bent when someone took it out and they bolted it down causing the groove/lip on the cover to stick to the magnet ring. Who knows!

It shouldn't be that hard to figure out but frustration can mount and just gotta take a step back and take a day to ponder it and get back to it if you got the time, or just move on and buy a new hub motor. Let the culprit hub motor rest on the healing bench for a month.

Was thinking the flat head screw driver to pop the cover off can bend the cover plate if its stuck good so be careful if anyones thinking of that, and of course dont shove the flat head screw driver in to far because you could hit and damage the laminations. Taking a new sharp razor blade all the way around between the cover and the magnet ring and seeing how far in you can get.
DAND214 wrote:
Nov 19 2020 8:09am
have you tried turning the motor with the cover up and tapping on the axle with a piece of wood and hammer. The cover might just be rusted stuck on the axle. have done it before when the cover won't slide off. The rotor might move a little in the magnet ring but won't fall out unless you push it out.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/ Just something to look at. haven't bought from them but they are all used or older stock. Motors are all used but real cheap. Just take a look. I might consider the 12s packs/ 72 cell in 6 packs. Don't go nuts as I said I know nothing about them.


Dan

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DrkAngel » Nov 21 2020 8:55pm

markz wrote:
Nov 20 2020 3:40pm
As for bent wheels due to a pothole, the most weight is on the rear wheel and if not trued and tensioned properly I would of bent many. The front wheel in most cases just bounces over the hole while the rear really hits it hard.
"Properly tensioned spokes" and tire pressure!
Dinged rims are annoying and dangerous. That rub or thwap as rim brakes hit dents,
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There, shallow draughts intoxicate the brain,
And drinking largely, sobers us again.

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latecurtis   1 GW

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Location: central Ohio

Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 21 2020 10:49pm

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Last edited by latecurtis on Nov 21 2020 11:10pm, edited 1 time in total.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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latecurtis   1 GW

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Posts: 3389
Joined: Jan 18 2014 1:53pm
Location: central Ohio

Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Nov 21 2020 11:06pm

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The Giant Roam and the disaster sitting next to it.
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In the home stretch with the Giant Roam. The bike shop wanted like 80 bucks for a disk on the back as some adapter was needed. I decided to go with a V brake on the back but will need a custom bracket to make it work for a 26" wheel on a 700cc bike but I know I can make it work. Once the bracket is installed they will cut the wire and hook it up. I am getting a tune up on the pedal gears also. This is defiantly my best build. Taking my time and will be testing it out next week when there is a nice day out.

Now the disaster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3odOWbkcyk

The wires are all there. When I get the thin solder and shrink tubes I can solder new wires on it but doubt I can get them thru without damaging them or cutting the sensor wires. The e bikeling hub motors have the wires going all the way thru the hub and are protected. Not sure when I will be working on the disaster. I really wish I could get a new axle similar to the e bikeling where the wires go all the way thru the axle. I would like to convert it to a rear wheel anyway so if I could get a new cover it would be great.

If not I will probably just order a 1,500 watt rear direct drive. It sucks though because the battery rack and controller is already installed. I just don't have much hope of getting the wires thru.

Thanks.

LC. out.

11/ 22 / 20 - 5:06 AM.
I can solder new wires on it but doubt I can get them thru without damaging them or cutting the sensor wires.
The was it is designed the wires do not go thru the axle and when the cover is all the way on the wires have room enough to come out.

The sensor wires got cut when attempting to put the cover on over the wires. I think there is a better way. I found my hot glue gun.

After I solder about 1 foot extensions on all 8 wires I tape them together with a piece of fish line wrapped around the 5 wires and some hot glue.

If I can get the cover on without cutting the fishline I should just be able to pull it thru.

I have had a couple hard battles with that hub motor and lost one but the war is not over. I might still win.

I just have to be smarter than a hub motor. :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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