new eZip motor

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I edited my previous post, but I really want to know what your seat is.

You could probably sell both Bafangs and get one powerful motor like a mxus 45H (3kw) but your into your Bafangs. Could even buy some big heat shrink and pass your batteries off into a package deal which people much prefer to have a battery in the deal. All the used batteries in the online classifieds sell sooner or later to some sucker.

latecurtis said:
 
I edited my previous post, but I really want to know what your seat is.

You could probably sell both Bafangs and get one powerful motor like a mxus 45H (3kw) but your into your Bafangs. Could even buy some big heat shrink and pass your batteries off into a package deal which people much prefer to have a battery in the deal. All the used batteries in the online classifieds sell sooner or later to some sucker.

I got the seat at Wall Mart. About $24.

Not really looking to sell anything.

I just want to work on upgrading what I have.

I will have to look into that. Easy Street ( The 700c Cypress Hybrid) will need a rear hub eventually. Not for awhile though. I have to work on my bank account for awhile.

The filter in my 60 gallon aquarium just stopped working. That will set me back about $30. :roll:

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Time to fill up that bank account.

What do you plan on doing to do so?
"Work" wise that is. You aiming for lazy small chump change or 'go big or go home'?

Well if you stop drinking and doing weed for a bit, maybe that $30 won't seem like such a big deal.
Do you take your empties to the bottle depot to get money back?
Here it is $0.05 for bottles under 1L and $0.25 for 1L and above. Only bottle depots here in Alberta, not like other provinces where you can return to grocery store. You can make some good money doing that, especially on an e-bike. You can just do circles around the others having to 'hoof' it, aka walk.


latecurtis said:
I have to work on my bank account for awhile.



I vote for the 35H Voilmart/QS/Leaf hub motor. Might be to much power for you though.

will need a rear hub eventually.


We are always "Upgrading" what we have, always. The grass is greener on the other side, they say.

I just want to work on upgrading what I have.
 
Do you take your empties to the bottle depot to get money back?

No deposit here in Ohio.
 
https://nexun.pl/mxus-45h-v3-3k-turbo-3000w-6t-10x6-rear

Yea. That is a sweet motor. Mabye after I move for Easy Street.
 
10/11/21 - 11:30 PM.

The 40 amp controller worked for the upgrade.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMwIxkOuVDo


2,150W - 21.9 mph


a month or so ago I did that video during the day.

Same exact set up with 12S LIFE except different brush controller. I saw 28 mph but did not get it on camera.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKPkSO-0riU&t=284s


10/13/21 - 5:37 PM.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gGcslyHQnE

The speedometer does work but can not really see it that good. It was really bright outside. It hit 32 mph down hill and 27 mph on the flat. ( bottom pic).


download11.png


I charged the battery before the trip back to be sure. It charged up in about 40 minutes.

The 10 amp charger gets really hot. It will burn your fingers. When I charged at home I put that air purifier fan directly in front of the charger. Today I charged at Wendy's It was really hot so took it out of the back pack.

OK. I did find the sprocket. page 250. I did in fact order a 89 tooth sprocket for PROPER gearing. I did listen to DA. I geared the motor for 28 mph NOT 32 mph.

From what I see in the videos taking SAG into consideration The Currie is running exactly how it should be.

At 33v the rpm will be 2,750. Top speed around 26 mph. That also could be a little less or a little more depending on a very slight incline or decline. Therefore my videos show that the Currie performs exactly like it should,

download (1).pngdownload (2).png



Thanks.
 

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OK. I get it. Nobody likes my builds.

But guess what ????? I am not going away. In fact I am putting a brush chain drive on the front of the 20" kids bike that has the 1,800W brushless motor on the back. And am gearing both motors for 40 + mph.

I now realize that LIFEPO4 operates at a lower voltage due to SAG than Lion. Therefore will compensate by gearing the 20" bike to the SAG voltage of 54V - 16S - LIFEPO4. which should be right around 42V.

The video I did at night showed almost 40V - no load and about 33V under load. I did some rough calculations on the calculator and am thinking that the 16S - LIFE will be right around 50V - no load and 41V - under load. However that is rather low. I will know more once I build the other 4S - 5P LIFEPO4 pack.

I know that the 1,500W brushless controller will run 36V no problem. It is how I killed my 10S - 8P factory Lion batteries. :lol:

The 800W - 36V motor is 2,750 rpm so at 42V = 3.208 rpm.

download (4).pngdownload (5).png

Total power 2,486W.

No LVC cutoff as the brushless controller works at 36 or 48V and the front brush will use the 40 amp controller with the built in speed control knob. :twisted:

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
It is not about whether or not somebody else likes your mode of transportation builds, but its only about if you like it and as long as your comfortable riding, with a nice cushy seat then ride on



ride on
 
It is not about whether or not somebody else likes your mode of transportation builds, but its only about if you like it and as long as your comfortable riding, with a nice cushy seat then ride on



ride on

Yea.

The thing is I like posting videos and pictures and doing experimenting. If nobody likes my builds and stop posting it kind of sucks. Without sharing information learning will stop. I have learned a lot here even though have been accused of being stubborn with a slow learning curve. :oops: Also I think I should upgrade the looks especially when I can water proof something at the same time. waterproofing is at the top of my list.

I actually look forwards to upgrading all my builds for a cleaner look. I am not saying I am giving up on frame racks for mounting batteries but anything I build from now on for the good builds I plan on doing will be more carefully planned out. Not just a bunch of pieces of wood and screws with spray paint.

triangle frame bags that are waterproof for every bike would be the #1 best thing I think. Cutting steel and using a grinder instead of vice grips and ratchets to secure the axle with hub motors is #2 thing if not #1. Anyway that is my first two.

My lights are good. I got two 1,200 Lumen utility light that charge by a USB and every e bike has the rear blinking red light. I have been upgrading brake on all bikes. I usually take them to a bike shop or pay the guy downstairs $10 but did actually hook a couple up myself.

#3. ? is pedal capability and gears.

That was a lot more important to me back in NY. It is why I bought e bikeling hub motors as were small and stealthy. If a cop did not see you pedaling he could pull you over.

Not the case here in Ohio as mini bikes and go carts run the streets every day. Also dirt bikes. Lots of mountain bikes banging 50cc and up two strokes.

#4. ? Tires and tubes of high quality just make sense as changing a flat tire on a wheel connected to a motor and sometimes pedal chain as well is a headache. Likewise having to uninstall torque arms with a hub motor.

SO

3. Tires and tubes.

4. pedal gears.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.
 
That is just crazy. Unlicensed uninsured dirt bike and go-carts on the streets of Ohio. Is Ohio one of the states that you do not have to wear a helmet riding motorcycles?

Easy to decipher - https://www.edgarsnyder.com/motorcycle-accidents/state-helmet-laws/

Not sure how old this info is, not the easiet to decipher quickly with the "excemptions" looks like various ages.
https://motorcyclehelmetlawsbystate.com/motorcycle-helmet-law-map/
11111.png



Not the case here in Ohio as mini bikes and go carts run the streets every day. Also dirt bikes. Lots of mountain bikes banging 50cc and up two strokes.
 
Not sure but know gas and electric bikes are legal. As far as mini bikes , go carts and dirt bikes it could be they just do not enforce the law. However if someone were to ride them on a main high traffic road they would probably get stopped quick. I only see them on side streets.

There are also a lot of bike lanes here dedicated to bikes only. They are all over here in Canton Ohio. It is one of the reasons why I moved here as e bikes have been legal for awhile. I think they just passed a law recently in NY.

Ok I found this.

Ohio PEV Laws
Minimum age: 16+ (Class 3 only)

Under Section 4511.522 of Ohio law, those under 16 years old may ride as a passenger on a class 3 eBike. If riding on a class 3 model, bikers of all ages must wear a helmet throughout.

eBikes: Legal, follows “three-tier” classifications.
Regulation for these PLEV models remains in line with the previously covered states. These models must incorporate a speedometer. No registration, licensing or insurance is required.

eScooters: Legal.

eScooters are finally regulated in Ohio, under ‘House Bill 62‘. This bill limits the minimum rider age to at least 16 years old, alongside excluding these models from insurance, licensing and registration requirements. Electric scooters in Ohio may not exceed 15 mp/h (24 km/h), although they remain suitable for use anywhere. Riders must still follow local traffic laws and give way to pedestrians at all times.


Must be 16 years old and helmets are required. However they do not enforce it. If someone were to ride in high traffic and drive erratically breaking traffic laws they will be pulled over.

I have been passed by cops all the time with no pedaling and not been bothered. I just make sure I stay to the right side of the road and not go over 20 mph when I see a cop.

Back in NY I saw mountain bikes with 50 cc motors but only a couple days and they disappeared. Here I see them every day and they do not disappear. :lol: Same with go carts and mini bikes.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.


IMG_1046.JPGIMG_1049.JPGIMG_1051.JPG

download (8).png

I guess I could charge 16S - 5P - LIFEPO4 with the new 15 amp charger. I know the 10 amp did 12S really quick. I only used it once at a Wendy's. The 10 amp got really hot though and had to take it out of the back pack. The 15 amp is like twice as large though so hopefully wont get as hot.

I am really happy the new 54.6V charger has the XT60 charge plug. I don't have to solder an XT60 on it. That is awesome. I could not find a proper 20S - LTO charger but 54.6V is close enough as

54.6V / 20 = 2.73V for LTO and 54.6 / 16 = 3.412V for 16S - LIFE.

I have been working on the Silver Diamondback and the Clear Creek Schwinn. I hooked up a Bafang to each and gave them to John. My Wife's son. I have too many e bikes so needed to get rid of a couple.

Still in the design phase when it comes to mounting 20S - LTO. I am not sure about the capacity of LTO compared to LIFEPO4.

I know that 19Ah of LIFEPO4 is like 10 Ah of Lion. That is because LIFEPO4 will run lower than the LVC on most controllers. I do not know about LTO though as I never ran them yet.

The thing is one 10S - LTO pack is perfect for an e bike but two is a problem. That is what I am looking at now. Solving that problem. I am also wanting a more professional clean look so my builds can be more popular here on ES.

Obviously compromises will need to happen. If I ran LiPo or Lion I could just buy a factory triangle bag and would not need to use wood but I really want to get away from hazardous volatile battery chemistry. I spent about $800 for the LIFE and LTO batteries so I intend to run both.

I am not even sure I will build any 18650 packs. Maybe when I move somewhere where I have a real e bike workshop with a large fireproof area dedicated for charging potentially dangerous batteries and proper ventilation. That would include a cement or dirt floor and metal shelves and a window with a 20" fan blowing air out so if there is a big LiPo or Lion fire all I need to do is use a fire extinguisher for electrical fire and wont have to worry about burning down a house. :roll:

So basically I will be storing all 18650 cells including the power modules until I move. I will not be building the Haaro V3 until I move and have a real e bike work shop.

I have two 36V chain drive motors now that need a home so am looking at one more build. I was going to put one on the front of the 26" dual suspension but not sure yet. There is a Bafang on the front which is perfect for up to 15 mph on flat or decline. I just need to get a few more amps to the rear 1,000W hub motor for up hills and > 15 mph. The big issue is two motors with different voltage.

No way I am running 12S - LIFE AND 20S - LTO. I might wait on that then until after I move and start building 18650 packs again. Also I do NOT want to haul that monstrosity up three flights of stairs. My new place will be on the first floor with either a basement , garage or both.

That leaves two e bikes that I could mount motors to. The 700c Giant Cypress Hybrid (Easy Street) and the 20" Diamondback Viper. That bike needs a lot of parts though. So am hoping to mount at least one motor on Easy Street. Maybe two. Not sure.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Those chargers are probably a hard wired voltage (resistor network) set or programmed, be cool to know and I know you dont know. Be quicker and easier for them to program it in, then solder in a resistor or two.

$800 on LTO :shock:
I saw some great deals for ev batteries, lighter and more compact then life/lto.
1400wh for $300 delivered, not bad beans.

Mark Knoppler is stringing, chow.
 
$800 on LTO :shock:
I saw some great deals for ev batteries, lighter and more compact then life/lto.
1400wh for $300 delivered, not bad beans.

The LTOs were $600+ and the LIFEPO4s 200+ I think.

I never ran LTO. Not sure what to expect.

The biggest thing I don't like about the LIFEPO4s is the range or capacity. I expected 20 miles a charge. Lucky if I get 10 before the LVC leaves me dead and pushing the bike. If I don't have an AC outlet I am dead and stinkin like Abraham Lincoln.

I have no clue if the LTOs would give me 10 miles , 15 miles or 20 miles. They are 18 Ah - LISHEN cells. I was hoping at least 10 miles for 10S - LTO and 20 miles for 20S.

The reason is I was considering building a 24V e bike for 10S - LTO but since I have a 20S charger I guess I may just have to figure out how to mount 20S or 40 pounds of LTO. I seriously doubt it will be pretty. I wanted to start building more professional clean builds but will be a really big challenge to say the least.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Depends on how fast your riding, up hills, wind, weight, but yeah you should get more the that.

What could it possibly be?
If its not damage to the battery itself.

Is it the controller kicking in lvc or the battery?
Yes I can tell on mine, between the 36V battery (with no bms) on 36V controller and the controllers lvc kicking in and 52V with bms on 36v controller with the 52V bms kicking in.

If I were you, I'd take off the bms, charge the battery up full and ride and see how long it takes before the controller kicks in, if you have the controllers lvc set to the proper setting. Its doable, you need to open it up and replace the resistor, if its not already correct.

Then I would do a capacity test with a resistive load.


LIFEPO4s is the range or capacity. I expected 20 miles a charge. Lucky if I get 10 before the LVC leaves me dead and pushing the bike.
 
Should just test the LiFePO₄ like I said.
Find out what you are working with and if and what the problem is.
 
http://prntscr.com/1x2u6pc

How do you balance charge 1S ?

I used the 6S LiPo charger to balance charge each 6S pack separate. I also charged single cell banks that were low.

I saw a couple cell banks lose voltage after a few days. At first it was the pack I soldered with the 60 watt iron and heated the cells up excessively. The pack I soldered one time with the Weller was stable. 97 to 99% all six cell banks.

HOWEVER - That changed.

Now it is the other way around. The 6S pack I soldered with the 60W iron reads 99% every cell. The pack soldered with the Weller has cell banks as low as 69% and as high as 96%. It just makes no sense at all to me.

Also if the cells are damaged taking them apart and de soldering and then re soldering will just make it worse as will be heating the cells up again. Other than a time machine and a spot welder I see no sense in trying to fix them.

The only thing that makes sense at this point is two - 6S active balancers which you don't like. Like I pointed out before LIFEPO4 and LTO do not have thermal runaway. Worse case scenario is they will stop running at some future point in time just like any battery will. Until then I could get hundreds of useful cycles with no manual balancing required.

Thanks.

LC. out
 
DrkAngel said:
Should just test the LiFePO₄ like I said.
Find out what you are working with and if and what the problem is.
Should just test the LiFePO₄ as I instructed.
Find out what you are working with and if and what the problem is.
 
download.png

OK. I misread it.

I will balance charge the 6S pack now that is unbalanced.

I never ran a discharge cycle with the LiPo charger but will try.

I will post pictures of the measurements.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdegvAjMEho

OK.

I am not 100% positive which pack I balance charged on the charger a few days ago. I know it has been at least a week since I run those. I will now balance charge the pack that reads 95 to 99%.

Actually that is not really that bad. Only 4% difference in cell banks on that pack. I would like them both 99% all cells though but that could be an un realistic goal.

I will see what happens when I balance charge it. I will wait 24 hours and check the cell banks then.

If they do drop back to where they were I could then do the discharge test on both 6S packs to compare.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNKeN_yevv4

Yea.

I thought about it and think I took the pack off the charger before it was finished. The cell banks were close like in the video I just shot. It could be my error. It could still be possible to at least get it down to < 3% or all cells @ 99%. If I can achieve that and they do not drop a few days later that should tell us something right ?

Last night was the third night this week I did not drink. Could even be four nights not sure. I have cut way down on my drinking. A month ago was polishing off a 12 pack every night.

Thanks.

LC. out.

10:42 AM.

Yea. Went to McDonalds and ate sausage mc muffins and hash browns. Just got back and charger is still doing the same thing. That is ok though. I can still do a discharge test with the 6S LiPo charger any time I want. I figured it out.

I think I bought the wrong cells. I thought because they were K2 energy and military grade I got a deal. But after viewing these cells I think not.

download (10).png

download (9).pngdownload (11).png



I removed them from the cart but will be ordering them at some point in time after I move to a new place.



Those are the ones I have now. $172. I ordered 80 or 5 boxes of 16. 90 of the 6 Ah cells are $292.

Ok It was around $200 I think with the tax and shipping. Maybe a little more. So the 6 Ah cells are $120 more but 90 cells gives me 18S instead of 16S. and almost double the capacity. Worth ordering if I get a spot welder or start using the one I got :oops: Or learn how to solder properly.

I will check voltage again tomorrow and see about doing that capacity test. I still have a 4S - 5P pack to build and a second 10S - LTO pack to do yet. I have the active balancers laying around for the LTOs. I need to put them somewhere safe so they do not get damaged. I also need to find a home for the two chain drives I am not using. Lots to do with little ambition. :lol:

Thanks for posting DA.

LC. out.
 
download (12).png

It does not look that easy to cut apart.

I went back to sleep for awhile. A few hours. I opened the door to check the 6S charger and the alarm went off on the charger. The exact time I opened the door. What are the chances of that.

I did a quick check and 97 to 98%. Not 99%.

Anyway I will check for voltage drop tomorrow. Also will check the weather. If it is not raining I might go to Wall-Mart later. Not sure. The 20 Ah - 13S Lion pack is out in the van. Been sitting a couple weeks now. I should probably bring it inside at least. I really do not want to charge Lion anymore inside though but should have a stable temperature when storing.

I gave away the old 10S hoverboard packs. Not the newer packs that failed but the old SONAs and Samsung hoverboard packs I came here to Ohio with. I specifically told John to charge them outside. He has a basement and a garage but told him to make sure nothing was close to it that could catch on fire. I said it would be like a bon fire if it did. I Gave him the metal can to store them in. That is 100 cells I don't have to worry about any more.

I talked to code and November 3 is the deadline for the repairs here to get up to code. I really need to find another place. E bikes can wait until I do. I will be building the other 10S - LTO though and the 4S - 5P LIFE. The loose 18650 cells I will need to pack carefully so they do not short out.

I might go back to LiPo once I have a safe place to store and charge them. LiPo can easily fit inside a triangle battery box factory built. More capacity in a smaller space and great discharge rate. I can then do cleaner builds that would be more popular here.

The old 12S LiPos I ran back in NY ran circles around the 20 Ah - factory Lion pack. I do not think that LiPo SAGs at all does it ???

4.15 standing voltage * 12 = 49.8V. I remember seeing 50V when I first got those LiPos from Dan. I am looking for a graph comparing LiPo , Lion . LIFE and LTO for SAG under load. My guess is LiPo has the least amount of SAG and LIFEPO4 the most. Lion somewhere between LiPo and LIFE but would like to know where LTOs are in that comparison.

It is kind of ridiculous that I will need to gear an e bike to SAG voltage when running LIFEPO4. It should work great though if an e bike is already over geared. I will be testing that theory soon with my 800W - 2,750 rpm chain drive and 80T sprocket. It should be running an 89 tooth like the Currie with a 26" wheel.

I guess if it works the bike will run great with LIFE but way over geared with Lion or LiPo. If DA can do that graph I would like to see it. I paid the most money for the LTOs so really hope they don't SAG like the LIFE. As much as I complain about the LIFE they do serve a purpose as I have a lot of 36V motors and controllers. For legal 20 mph cargo or daily transportation I will get my moneys worth. I can also re charge in 20 to 30 min for about 20 miles.

For serious performance or > 35 or 40 mph you can not beat LiPo. 10.0 or 12.0 - 6S Tenergy hard packs. I do not like the soft packs. The 13S power modules are the only 18650 cells that can compete with LiPo I think.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/60-lifepo4-fullriver-18650-cell-in-a-12v-22-5ah-pack?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=6591954616398&pr_ref_pid=6657749811278&pr_seq=uniform

I did not know there was 18650 cells that are also LIFEPO4. I wonder how difficult it would be to upgrade the wiring to 12 gauge?

I see Battery Clearinghouse is selling Bafang motors again also. They were out for awhile but got more in. Some without a wheel. I need to learn how to build a wheel as need a 700c for the front of Easy Street.


Thanks.

LC. out.
 
OK. I misread it.

Please re-read the same post a few times to be sure you understand. Then, once you think you understand, re-read it all over a few times more. Could it be the substances your ingesting?
I mean I am really jacked up on 100mg of dark roast coffee right now and I am afraid I could be up until 2am, turn into a Vampire..... drinking, with no work is easy to do so I understand your dilemma.

https://batteryhookup.com/products/new-battery-hookup-lifep04-32650-3-2v-5000mah-cells-1

"16 modules (4 BOXES) in series for 48v" so 4x $220 = $880 for 48 x 100Ah = 4800Wh thats amazing. I can't remember if they ship up to the great white north or not. I think they do, just s/h price is high.
Well I should check it out, put a few in the cart.
$880 + FedEx Ground® $183.01

quote MODULE DIMENSION: 7" X 5.5" X 3" unquote
Hmmm so 7" wide on the top bar, and 22" long if it fits.

4800wh for a g note in usd is $1300cdn nets myself 137km :shock:
I'd have to go 36V as I would not need the speed myself, but the total watts to get up a hill might struggle, but I continue to lose body weight.

Curtis should buy that, 24V just need 2 in series.
 
yea. It is a great deal. For that price people into solar power storage will buy them up like hot cakes. SLAs are very limited charge/discharge cycles.

However I have to move. That is a fact. Looks like it could be next month. At least $1,000 rent and security and $200 to $300 to get utilities hooked up. around 1,500 bucks when all is said and done.

Also once I have a safe and secure charging station. I am looking at a factory front wire basket and two of those. I think a front basket for LiPo or Lion is better because as soon as I see smoke I can stop the bike. The top bar is not good as I am almost sitting on them and in a rear basket my ass could catch on fire. Also can mount a small fire extinguisher on the top bar.

download (1).png

I already have several years experience running and charging them without any LiPo fires. Also I have ran every battery chemistry. SLA , LiPo , Lion and LIFE. I will soon be running LTO. LiPo has the most discharge and performance so far and much lighter and takes up less space.

I am so sick and tired hearing how my builds are junk. I can order small triangle bags for my controllers and wires and get rid of all wood and use better torque arms or drop out adapters for my hub motors instead of vice grips or ratchets.. Then order new stickers and paint / detailing and have a clean look for a change on at least a few e bikes.

Not all my e bikes though as I am still running the LIFE and LTOs I have. I just am not ordering any more I don't think. At least not any time soon. That could change though. I do change my mind a lot.

Once I have a real e bike work shop with a 100% fire proof area with ventilation it will be time to start spot welding. I need to learn it. I will have a couple fire extinguishers handy and electricians gloves and face shield so wont have any excuses to NOT spot weld 18650 Lion and 26650 LIFE. Not just for e bikes but solar power storage as well. I am NOT giving up on that either.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Thought you were afraid of Lipo. Dont worry about your bike man.


Moving sucks, paid Got Junk guys $1k for 1 + 1/8 truck load to dump stuff, but they probably made $500 off the stuff we junked. Paid $280 for 2 people to move a Lazy Boy from upstairs, out the door around to the back. It was too heavy, I had broken ribs at the time, brother and 16 yr old boy couldnt do it. We use them all the time for the rental units, dont want some strangers eyeballing our interior.
So when I move I am hiring the cheapest mofo's to move the big heavy shit.

There is easy money to be made out there man, very easy money.


However I have to move. That is a fact. Looks like it could be next month. At least $1,000 rent and security and $200 to $300 to get utilities hooked up. around 1,500 bucks when all is said and done.

You take what complete strangers say on the internet to heart, I said it to you before and I will say it to you again, if its working for you so be it. I might have rubbed it in a bit, but doing things right the first time has its merits. frock I half ass things all the time, certain things I dont. I got wires hanging. Heck I even rode my front hub with a flat tire for 2 miles yesterday. Sometimes I dont give a F, but when it comes to batteries, it becomes serious. Biggest thing is dont drain the lipos over their voltage cliff. If you do, you better just throw them out or charge at 0.01C for weeks and weeks.
I am so sick and tired hearing how my builds are junk.

Sounds like your turning it into a business. To much work for my liking. I'd snap up those 100Ah and call her a day.
Once I have a real e bike work shop with a 100% fire proof area with ventilation it will be time to start spot welding. I need to learn it.

:shock: Solar "projects" should be good for another 100 or so pages huh
Good to learn how to properly do a discharge test with any resistive load and good to learn how to measure internal resistance if your going into the solar game.
but solar power storage as well. I am NOT giving up on that either.
 
latecurtis said:
Also once I have a safe and secure charging station. I am looking at a factory front wire basket and two of those. I think a front basket for LiPo or Lion is better because as soon as I see smoke I can stop the bike. The top bar is not good as I am almost sitting on them and in a rear basket my ass could catch on fire. Also can mount a small fire extinguisher on the top bar.

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I already have several years experience running and charging them without any LiPo fires. Also I have ran every battery chemistry. SLA , LiPo , Lion and LIFE. I will soon be running LTO. LiPo has the most discharge and performance so far and much lighter and takes up less space.
1st off, 12s gives pitiful "48V" (44.4V) performance!
2nd point, another example of poor math skills! Listed Lipo, even if rated truthfully, cost $445/kWh!
Compare to brand name, higher rated output, sturdy reinforced casing, with included balance board, 13s (48.1V) Panasonic "power modules" @ $125/kWh.
 
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